Drops of oil on ground towards rear end
#1
Drops of oil on ground towards rear end
Hello I am a first owner here and have a built 2007 Z06 that I bought just last week. I've noticed there's a few drops of what looks like motor oil towards the rear of the car on the floor when I go to back her out. Just curious if anyone has any thoughts on this? And also it feels like motor oil and cant really smell much. Also if someone can tell me how to change tracks on the cd player that would be awesome too lol. Any info would be much appreciated thanks ! Also it looks to be about where the trunk area begins just before the rear tires. Thought id add that part!
#2
Instructor
Depending on your familiarity with vehicles, I would jack it up, climb under it and start inspecting the rear differential housing, assuming it's coming from the center. If it's closer to one side or the other, I would inspect the shafts. If it is closer to one side, put some plastic down to better look at the fluid leaking. If it's thick, 80/90, it will be from the rear diff. If it's thin, check your brakes. Might be an open or leaky bleeder, might be something more. Either way, I'd get it checked asap! Neither item running dry is a good thing and both can prove very expensive!
#3
Depending on your familiarity with vehicles, I would jack it up, climb under it and start inspecting the rear differential housing, assuming it's coming from the center. If it's closer to one side or the other, I would inspect the shafts. If it is closer to one side, put some plastic down to better look at the fluid leaking. If it's thick, 80/90, it will be from the rear diff. If it's thin, check your brakes. Might be an open or leaky bleeder, might be something more. Either way, I'd get it checked asap! Neither item running dry is a good thing and both can prove very expensive!
#4
I just had a rear seal replaced last year on my 05 with 30,000 miles. You could see where it had "blown" all over the rear end of the car. It cost about $500.00 to fix.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Last edited by Jimmy W1; 09-22-2018 at 07:29 AM.
#5
Race Director
Sounds like an oil pan gasket had mine replaced on my 2010 GS 2 years ago just left a few drops on the floor especially after winter storage it was covered under my warranty I paid $100 deductible but the job cost roughly $800.
#7
So This is what I found when I finally got it in the air. not much oil anywhere else and very little misted on the tranny. So based off the pic how terminal is this lol ?
#8
Color of the fluid tells a lot. The trans used Red fluid, while the diff used oil color fluid that turns black from the LDS clutch dust instead.
So trans and diff bolt up like this,
And since we can see the the oil color is clear/black, without a red tint to it, then the fluid is from the diff.
And the seal between the two is the outer black band on the trans side (plus gasket seal) that holds the diff oil on the front of the diff to back of trans.
So outer black o ring type band (and gasket) fails and you get black diff fluid leak leaking out from the connection point of the two, and if the inner output seal fails, then you get Red fluid leaking from the two instead,
With luck, , just an output shaft seal on the diff side that is leaking which can be replaced with out having to drop the differ (so long as the problem is not a work out bearing that caused the output shaft seal to fail). But if the seal from the trans to diff, the diff needs to be pulled from the trans, so you can replace the outer seal on the trans isntead.
So trans and diff bolt up like this,
And since we can see the the oil color is clear/black, without a red tint to it, then the fluid is from the diff.
And the seal between the two is the outer black band on the trans side (plus gasket seal) that holds the diff oil on the front of the diff to back of trans.
So outer black o ring type band (and gasket) fails and you get black diff fluid leak leaking out from the connection point of the two, and if the inner output seal fails, then you get Red fluid leaking from the two instead,
With luck, , just an output shaft seal on the diff side that is leaking which can be replaced with out having to drop the differ (so long as the problem is not a work out bearing that caused the output shaft seal to fail). But if the seal from the trans to diff, the diff needs to be pulled from the trans, so you can replace the outer seal on the trans isntead.
Last edited by Dano523; 09-23-2018 at 12:50 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Mike1977 (09-24-2018)
#9
Color of the fluid tells a lot. The trans used Red fluid, while the diff used oil color fluid that turns black from the LDS clutch dust instead.
https://youtu.be/6Ghbo1VryZU
So trans and diff bolt up like this,
And since we can see the the oil color is clear/black, without a red tint to it, then the fluid is from the diff.
And the seal between the two is the outer black band on the trans side (plus gasket seal) that holds the diff oil on the front of the diff to back of trans.
So outer black o ring type band (and gasket) fails and you get black diff fluid leak leaking out from the connection point of the two, and if the inner output seal fails, then you get Red fluid leaking from the two instead,
With luck, , just an output shaft seal on the diff side that is leaking which can be replaced with out having to drop the differ (so long as the problem is not a work out bearing that caused the output shaft seal to fail). But if the seal from the trans to diff, the diff needs to be pulled from the trans, so you can replace the outer seal on the trans isntead.
https://youtu.be/6Ghbo1VryZU
So trans and diff bolt up like this,
And since we can see the the oil color is clear/black, without a red tint to it, then the fluid is from the diff.
And the seal between the two is the outer black band on the trans side (plus gasket seal) that holds the diff oil on the front of the diff to back of trans.
So outer black o ring type band (and gasket) fails and you get black diff fluid leak leaking out from the connection point of the two, and if the inner output seal fails, then you get Red fluid leaking from the two instead,
With luck, , just an output shaft seal on the diff side that is leaking which can be replaced with out having to drop the differ (so long as the problem is not a work out bearing that caused the output shaft seal to fail). But if the seal from the trans to diff, the diff needs to be pulled from the trans, so you can replace the outer seal on the trans isntead.
#10
Use on this on the C6 diff for lube, and already contains the correct amount of LDS slip additive from the start.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2fcc4623c8.jpg
The original diff lube on the 2005 cars was causing problem with the LDS clutches making too much noise since it was a touch too thick, and if you use something like Red line, it too slick and ends up with ped leg burn outs since it lowers the LDS clutches from their normal 100ftlbs break-away values isntead.
Hence LSD clutch packs look like before, so the lube as to be just thin enough to allow it to pushed out and clear the disc when they clutches go to lock up, and not too slick when the fluid is cleared between the discs to not allow the pack to lock up isntead.
Also, since the discs will wear and cause clutch dust, it very important that the fluid can be flushed out when it goes to lock up to take the dust with it, and that the fluid is not dissolving the disc material off the discs as well.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2fcc4623c8.jpg
The original diff lube on the 2005 cars was causing problem with the LDS clutches making too much noise since it was a touch too thick, and if you use something like Red line, it too slick and ends up with ped leg burn outs since it lowers the LDS clutches from their normal 100ftlbs break-away values isntead.
Hence LSD clutch packs look like before, so the lube as to be just thin enough to allow it to pushed out and clear the disc when they clutches go to lock up, and not too slick when the fluid is cleared between the discs to not allow the pack to lock up isntead.
Also, since the discs will wear and cause clutch dust, it very important that the fluid can be flushed out when it goes to lock up to take the dust with it, and that the fluid is not dissolving the disc material off the discs as well.
Last edited by Dano523; 09-24-2018 at 11:40 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Mike1977 (09-25-2018)
#11
Use on this on the C6 diff for lube, and already contains the correct amount of LDS slip additive from the start.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2fcc4623c8.jpg
The original diff lube on the 2005 cars was causing problem with the LDS clutches making too much noise since it was a touch too thick, and if you use something like Red line, it too slick and ends up with ped leg burn outs since it lowers the LDS clutches from their normal 100ftlbs break-away values isntead.
Hence LSD clutch packs look like before, so the lube as to be just thin enough to allow it to pushed out and clear the disc when they clutches go to lock up, and not too slick when the fluid is cleared between the discs to not allow the pack to lock up isntead.
Also, since the discs will wear and cause clutch dust, it very important that the fluid can be flushed out when it goes to lock up to take the dust with it, and that the fluid is not dissolving the disc material off the discs as well.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...2fcc4623c8.jpg
The original diff lube on the 2005 cars was causing problem with the LDS clutches making too much noise since it was a touch too thick, and if you use something like Red line, it too slick and ends up with ped leg burn outs since it lowers the LDS clutches from their normal 100ftlbs break-away values isntead.
Hence LSD clutch packs look like before, so the lube as to be just thin enough to allow it to pushed out and clear the disc when they clutches go to lock up, and not too slick when the fluid is cleared between the discs to not allow the pack to lock up isntead.
Also, since the discs will wear and cause clutch dust, it very important that the fluid can be flushed out when it goes to lock up to take the dust with it, and that the fluid is not dissolving the disc material off the discs as well.
#12
https://www.southerncarparts.com/cor...nge-pm-43.html
#13
Le Mans Master
Could be oil pan seepage....also to change tracks on the cd just hit the select button on the lower left hand corner....thats what I do on mine...unless you have steering wheel controls.....then the select switch is there. Im pretty sure the Z06 has voice commands also....but its primative
Clif
Clif
#14
Well I just wanted to share with everyone that I located the cause of my oil leak and I'll say I was pretty relieved when I saw where it was leaking from lol, Whoever did the motor work must have broke the PCV fresh air tube and just slipped a piece of hose in between the break. So with no hose clamps on it it started to seep oil and was collecting on the intake and then running down below and wind was carrying it as a mist and collecting on my diff and tranny forming lil drops. Just put a band aid on it for now to make sure that's what it was but as of now there's no leaks under the car !! Finally I catch a break lol. But I did notice my oil pressure is now hitting 70lbs when I'm into the throttle and when I let off it creeps to 80 for a few seconds and then comes down. Is this normal pressure or not ?
#15
Le Mans Master
Hope that is all it was. Just a note of caution...if that is an example of the quality of the "build", I would keep a close eye on everything for awhile. Let folks here know what you are finding if you find anything strange.
The following users liked this post:
Mike1977 (11-10-2018)
#16
Well so far that's the only thing I saw broken, But I did see the bleeder line for the clutch slave cylinder was just laying right next to the header and I zip tied it out of the way. The guy I bought it from was from FL and Lashway Motorsports did the build so note to everyone down south about that ! But is that oil pressure ok though ? 70LBS and then 80 when I let off the throttle ? This is my first Vette and LS motor so not sure what they are supposed to run on the regular. And also the stock line routing for that runs across the intake and back into the drivers side head. But they have that fitting capped and the T fitting was capped as well. So didn't know if that might cause the oil pressure to increase cause before I found this it never went above 60ish !!