Rocket-J

Hi Guys.
Has anyone had to perform a "drive cycle" to pass smog in California? If so, did you have any problems with it?
It is a specific procedure of time, speed and miles that is not compatible with California traffic. Try doing 55 then slow down to 20
anyplace. You will not make any friends. Maybe okay in the Mojave Desert but not where I live.
I have a 2012 Grand Sport. Thank you

c6 monkey

I changed the battery on my work truck and got it smogged shortly after. Had to do this drive cycle thing. It didn't work the first time so I just drove it around for a couple of weeks normally, went back and it passed.

subfloor@centurytrans

It is EXTREMELY difficult to have all your OBDII systems show as ready for a smog by doing the drive cycle thing. The much easier option is to find somebody with HP Tuners and turn off the necessary codes so that it'll pass smog without issues or hours of unnecessary driving that usually doesn't end up working anyway.

C6ToGo

I/M set Procedure

Description
The purpose of the inspection/maintenance (I/M) complete system set procedure is to satisfy the enable criteria necessary to execute all of the I/M readiness diagnostics and complete the drive cycles for those particular diagnostics. When all I/M monitored diagnostic tests are completed, the I/M System Status indicators are set to YES. Perform the I/M Complete System Set Procedure if any I/M System Status indicators are set to NO.

Conditions for Meeting a Cold Start
• The ignition voltage between 11-18 volts.

• The barometric pressure (BARO) is more than 75 kPa.

• The start-up engine coolant temperature (ECT) is between 4-30°C (39-86°F).

• The start-up intake air temperature (IAT) is between 4-30°C (39-86°F).

• The difference between the IAT and the ECT is less than or equal to 6°C (10.8°F)

• The ambient air temperature is between 4-30°C (39-86°F).

• Fuel level is between 15-85 percent

Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Set Procedure
Important: Whenever the ignition is turned ON, ignition positive voltage is supplied to the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) heaters. After verifying the enable criteria, turn OFF the ignition for approximately 5 minutes to allow the sensors to cool before continuing with the test. Once the engine is started, do NOT turn the engine OFF for the remaining portion of the set procedure.

Ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start listed above.
⇒ If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, perform the EVAP Service bay test if applicable.

⇒ If the EVAP Service bay test is NOT available, ensure that 17 hours has elapsed since the last cold start.

⇒ The EVAP I/M System Status indicator requires several drive and 17 hour key OFF cycles to complete before the indicator will transition.

⇒ If the O2S Heater System Status indicator displays NO, ensure that the ignition has been turned OFF for at least 10 hours.

Set the vehicle parking brake and ensure the vehicle is in Park for automatic transmission or Neutral for manual transmission.
Turn OFF all accessories; HVAC system, other electrical loads, including aftermarket/add-on equipment, etc.
Start and idle the engine for 2 minutes, until 65°C (149°F) is achieved.
Run the engine for 6.5 minutes within the following conditions:
• MAF parameter between 4-30 g/s

• Engine speed steady between 1000-3000 RPM

Return the engine to idle for 1 minute.
Apply and hold brake pedal, and shift to Drive for automatic, or apply clutch pedal for manual and operate the vehicle within the following conditions for 2 minutes:
• Depress the accelerator pedal until TP Sensor angle is more than 2 percent.

• Mass air flow (MAF) signal between 15-30 g/s

• RPM steady between 1200-2000 RPM

Release the accelerator pedal and shift the vehicle to Park for automatic, or Neutral and release clutch pedal for manual, and allow the engine to idle for 2 minutes.
Quickly depress the accelerator pedal until TP Sensor Angle is more than 8 percent and return to idle, repeat 3 times.
Allow engine to idle for at least 2 minutes.
Close the hood, release the parking brake and drive vehicle at 24 km/h (15 mph) or slower for 2 minutes.
Caution: Refer to Road Test Caution in the Preface section.

Continue to drive the vehicle for at least 5.5 miles between 45-112 km/h (28-70 mph) with the vehicle reaching at least 80 km/h (50 mph).
Release the accelerator pedal for at least 2 seconds. This will allow the vehicle to enter decel fuel cut-off.
Depress the accelerator pedal until the TP Sensor angle is increased 3-20 percent and maintain a safe speed for 1 minute.
Safely stop the vehicle, with the engine in drive for automatic or in neutral with the clutch pedal depressed and parking brake applied for manual, idle for 2 minutes.
Shift to Park for automatic and apply the parking brake, or Neutral and release clutch pedal for manual.
Important: Do NOT disturb the vehicle or turn ON the ignition, until told to do so. Disturbing the vehicle may invalidate this portion of the test.

Turn OFF the ignition and exit the vehicle. Do NOT disturb the vehicle for 45 minutes.
Observe the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Status with a scan tool. All of the I/M System Status indicators should display YES.
⇒ If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO turn OFF the ignition for 17 hours, ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start, and repeat steps 13-16 three more times, or until the EVAP I/M System Status indicator transitions to YES. If the indicator continues to display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table to identify the DTCs that did not run. Follow the Conditions for Running the DTC in order to set the EVAP I/M System Status indicator

⇒ If any of the I/M System Status indicators display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table for the indicator which did not display YES. The I/M System DTC Table identifies the DTCs associated with each I/M System Status Indicator. Follow the Conditions for Running the DTC in order to set the associated status indicator.

Rocket-J

I followed the above to the letter. Three times. It says I might have to do it 6 times. I had to drive 150 miles from my house to find a place I could spend the night then let the car sit for one hour.
It hasn't worked yet. I have no codes and the big OBDII machine shows nothing marginal.
Not easy to find that location. Hate to drive there 5 more times for the night.
I now have over 700 miles of Drive Cycles sense the Smog Checks first test.
The only one not clearing is my Cat. I am willing to change Cats and O2 Sensors but two Corvette mechanics say there is nothing wrong with my Cats and it won't make a difference.
Thanks for the above Drive Cycle procedure, I downloaded the same one. I have tried three different procedures without luck.

Judgebull

Bob Paris

Not at all. At least the OP did not refer to the situation as "dreaded" like so many of the nervous Nellies here. All the person has to do is drive 100-150 miles and everything will be OK. Ask me how I know...

ptroxx

Boat Racer

I do have HPTuner but I don't know how to turn off the necessary codes to get Al's car to pass the smog check.

Rocket-J

I have now driven over 1000s mile in various drive cycles methods. Our Club has a long overnight run this weekend. Maybe that will help.
Does anyone know if a mild tune will cause my cats not to pass. This tune is 6 years old. Synergy will remove it for $100 but he has no idea
if that will help or not.
I had ZO6 exhaust in my car. I put my original Manifolds, cats and pipe back on. Still can't clear the Cat mode. I have no DIC error codes just the OBII
"C" button blinking. All others are fine.
I bet I have completed over 20 drive cycles. I must be a terrible driver.

subfloor@centurytrans

If you want to drive up to Brentwood I can do it for $100 and guarantee that it'll pass.

Rocket-J

Sounds like a plan.
Headed for a Club run this weekend. When I get back on Monday I will set an appointment with you.
Thank you.

overlap