C6 - Giving me Starting issue (dead) - 1st Problem Ever in this car
10-22-2018, 04:30 PM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
C6 - Giving me Starting issue (dead) - 1st Problem Ever in this car
Hey guys,
Car was acting weird for couple of days - the Passive lock (where you walk away, it lock and honks), wasn't working. I would have to manually lock it with the FOB. Then yesterday, it wasn't locking at all...but finally locked after a few attempts. This morning the car doesn't recognize the FOB, won't unlock at all. So I opened the trunk with "key", and used the "door opening latch" located on the left to open the driver door.
NOW!! HOW the Heck do I start the car. I looked on Youtube -
But the FOB doesn't seem like it wants to sit/click perfectly in that slot. The car is acting totally dead, nothing works. WHAT do I do? I am parked at a friend's house, need to move the car Today ASAP!!!! Please Helllppp !!!
Car was acting weird for couple of days - the Passive lock (where you walk away, it lock and honks), wasn't working. I would have to manually lock it with the FOB. Then yesterday, it wasn't locking at all...but finally locked after a few attempts. This morning the car doesn't recognize the FOB, won't unlock at all. So I opened the trunk with "key", and used the "door opening latch" located on the left to open the driver door.
NOW!! HOW the Heck do I start the car. I looked on Youtube -
10-22-2018, 04:47 PM
#2
Race Director
Have to ask if you're certain FOB battery's not dead?
Even w/ a dead FOB it's supposed to work in slot, but...
FOB cell aside, how's the car's battery?
When was it last replaced, if ever?
Has it been load tested?
Gotta start somewhere.
Those 2 items seem the most common culprits behind this stuff when it'd been reliable for months/years.
G/L, update please.
Even w/ a dead FOB it's supposed to work in slot, but...
FOB cell aside, how's the car's battery?
When was it last replaced, if ever?
Has it been load tested?
Gotta start somewhere.
Those 2 items seem the most common culprits behind this stuff when it'd been reliable for months/years.
G/L, update please.
The following users liked this post:
Vette_Fan (10-22-2018)
10-22-2018, 04:53 PM
#3
Race Director
Sounds like your battery is shot or at best one of your connections at the battery is loose. These cars are ridiculously finicky about low batteries and bad connections.
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Vette_Fan (10-22-2018)
10-22-2018, 04:57 PM
#4
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I used another car to attach jumper cables (just in case the battery was out). It's a Redtop battery was changed about 1.5 yrs ago. BOTH FOB batteries were changed around 6 months ago.
I switched the remotes (using #1 now, inserted into the glove slot) it recognized it - the radio came on, all the lights working, etc. It was showing full voltage on the car's meter... Expect the car WON'T Start. There's a check engine light on and on the bottom left corner the car/key symbol is on.
I removed the jumper cable - the Green (start button) keeps flashing, the inside lights not working. It keeps making a click-click sound in the glove compartment area.
This is the first time I'm facing such issue, please tell me how to start it. I am sure once it starts it will be fine. I don't know where these germs come in from and why?
I have loved Corvettes all my life, but today I realized what POS it is. FOBs are made of cheap plastic that fall apart for no reason, car has creaking sounds for no reason, and the electronics have their own mind...
I switched the remotes (using #1 now, inserted into the glove slot) it recognized it - the radio came on, all the lights working, etc. It was showing full voltage on the car's meter... Expect the car WON'T Start. There's a check engine light on and on the bottom left corner the car/key symbol is on.
I removed the jumper cable - the Green (start button) keeps flashing, the inside lights not working. It keeps making a click-click sound in the glove compartment area.
This is the first time I'm facing such issue, please tell me how to start it. I am sure once it starts it will be fine. I don't know where these germs come in from and why?
I have loved Corvettes all my life, but today I realized what POS it is. FOBs are made of cheap plastic that fall apart for no reason, car has creaking sounds for no reason, and the electronics have their own mind...
Last edited by Vette_Fan; 10-22-2018 at 05:03 PM.
10-22-2018, 05:11 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
If you know the battery is good, disconnect, wait 30 secs to 1 min, reconnect and try starting with FOB in glove box slot. If that doesn't work, I would take the battery to your nearest auto parts store and have it load tested to be sure it is good. If the battery is bad and you try to jump it, sometimes it still will not start. A few years back, had mine die at work, had two different people try to jump me without success; installed a new battery and the car started right up .. as already stated, these cars are extremely finicky when it comes to the battery.
Last edited by Welker1; 10-22-2018 at 05:12 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Vette_Fan (10-22-2018)
10-22-2018, 05:11 PM
#6
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Have to ask if you're certain FOB battery's not dead?
Even w/ a dead FOB it's supposed to work in slot, but...
FOB cell aside, how's the car's battery?
When was it last replaced, if ever?
Has it been load tested?
Gotta start somewhere.
Those 2 items seem the most common culprits behind this stuff when it'd been reliable for months/years.
G/L, update please.
Even w/ a dead FOB it's supposed to work in slot, but...
FOB cell aside, how's the car's battery?
When was it last replaced, if ever?
Has it been load tested?
Gotta start somewhere.
Those 2 items seem the most common culprits behind this stuff when it'd been reliable for months/years.
G/L, update please.
1. Both FOB batteries were changed around 6 months ago (I after I bought the car in Feb). You said, even if Fob battery is dead, it's supposed to work in the slot - I don't know how that feature works.
2. Car battery was changed with Optima Redtop around March 2017. Those are supposed to be great batteries, and even if it was dead, the Jump from another car should get my car started.
As mentioned in my post # 4, ALL the lights, radio, needles, etc came ON, light it should (when using a Jump) + Key in the slot. But it also had the Engine light & Car/Key lights ON too - what's that about???
These freaking electronics and their clicking sounds are crazy...
Last edited by Vette_Fan; 10-22-2018 at 05:18 PM.
10-22-2018, 05:19 PM
#7
Race Director
It doesn't always work like that on these cars, I tried jumping mine, then using my floor battery charger that puts 250 cranking amps to the battery and it still wouldn't start. Pulled the battery out of my wife's BMW and put it in the Vette and it fired right up.
10-22-2018, 05:23 PM
#8
Race Director
Wow, it's freaking out.
A RT should last longer than 1.5 years, even in CA heat. Never know though.
Would pay having it load tested anyway, has all the symptoms of low/dying battery.
If certain car cell's solid ONLY thing I can think of is *try* disconnecting battery for a few minutes. Reconnect.
Force rebooting all computers might do the trick & get you on the road.
IF rebooting works, great.
If there's something deeper behind the failure though, it'll happen again.
A RT should last longer than 1.5 years, even in CA heat. Never know though.
Would pay having it load tested anyway, has all the symptoms of low/dying battery.
If certain car cell's solid ONLY thing I can think of is *try* disconnecting battery for a few minutes. Reconnect.
Force rebooting all computers might do the trick & get you on the road.
IF rebooting works, great.
If there's something deeper behind the failure though, it'll happen again.
10-22-2018, 05:35 PM
#9
Race Director
Roadster's correct, for some weird reason C6 does not jump easily if a'tall.
If RT has an internal failure, and they do indeed happen, providing any power is useless.
In fact car would go bananas like yours is doing right now, every CEL in the book.
Happened to me w/ my then new Z06, wouldn't start for my first cruise.
Thru every CEL in the boing scared the bejebbers outa me when it was a dead battery.
The symptoms of total anarchy, I thankfully recalled from CF.
If RT has an internal failure, and they do indeed happen, providing any power is useless.
In fact car would go bananas like yours is doing right now, every CEL in the book.
Happened to me w/ my then new Z06, wouldn't start for my first cruise.
Thru every CEL in the boing scared the bejebbers outa me when it was a dead battery.
The symptoms of total anarchy, I thankfully recalled from CF.
10-22-2018, 05:36 PM
#10
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Jumped the car again - this time the with a few efforts and drama, the car started.
NOW, the day time lights are not turned ON....WTF? I am leaving the car running, going to Autozone to get the battery checked and then we'll see. NOT turning it off. But why the Day lights not ON?
NOW, the day time lights are not turned ON....WTF? I am leaving the car running, going to Autozone to get the battery checked and then we'll see. NOT turning it off. But why the Day lights not ON?
10-22-2018, 05:39 PM
#11
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Since the date on the RT is 2/17, and I'm sure there's a 3+ yrs warranty, I should be able to get one under warranty.
I usually buy batteries from Walmart or Costco that have 5 yrs warranty, and they usually last 7+ yrs (it did on my C5).
I usually buy batteries from Walmart or Costco that have 5 yrs warranty, and they usually last 7+ yrs (it did on my C5).
10-22-2018, 07:13 PM
#12
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Just came home, parked the car. Turned off. Exited, re-entered, restarted.... everything seems normal. WTF ???? That's good news, but what was that all about? Someone please explain to me the "purpose" of why the FOB is inserted into the slot? What does it do?
I do hear clicking sounds in the dash area time to time. Honestly, until it gives trouble, don't need to think about it.
I do hear clicking sounds in the dash area time to time. Honestly, until it gives trouble, don't need to think about it.
Last edited by Vette_Fan; 10-22-2018 at 07:18 PM.
10-22-2018, 08:22 PM
#13
Race Car Tech
Basically, the FOB is near the RCDLR module which is what talks to the FOB with a battery. With no battery, the FOB electronic signal is close enough to the RCDLR to pick up the signal, thus why the car will recognize the FOB and the car can be started. Normally, the no FOB detected is either a weak battery in the FOB or the vehicle battery is weak or has a bad cell.
As for the red top battery, I bought a new one for my car, and 6 months later it wouldn't start the car. It had a bad cell in it, picked up by a load test of the battery.
BTW, jump starting a C6 is very hard on a weak or dead battery. Most times after a jump start, the battery will be shocked which causes plate material to fall off and collect at the bottom of the battery causing a dendrite short(s) between the plates. When and if this happens, the battery will no longer hold a full charge or will not have enough energy to start a C6.
Get the Red Top load tested to be assured that it is OK.
As for the red top battery, I bought a new one for my car, and 6 months later it wouldn't start the car. It had a bad cell in it, picked up by a load test of the battery.
BTW, jump starting a C6 is very hard on a weak or dead battery. Most times after a jump start, the battery will be shocked which causes plate material to fall off and collect at the bottom of the battery causing a dendrite short(s) between the plates. When and if this happens, the battery will no longer hold a full charge or will not have enough energy to start a C6.
Get the Red Top load tested to be assured that it is OK.
Last edited by 4SUMERZ; 10-22-2018 at 08:32 PM.
10-23-2018, 06:09 AM
#14
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Basically, the FOB is near the RCDLR module which is what talks to the FOB with a battery. With no battery, the FOB electronic signal is close enough to the RCDLR to pick up the signal, thus why the car will recognize the FOB and the car can be started. Normally, the no FOB detected is either a weak battery in the FOB or the vehicle battery is weak or has a bad cell.
As for the red top battery, I bought a new one for my car, and 6 months later it wouldn't start the car. It had a bad cell in it, picked up by a load test of the battery.
BTW, jump starting a C6 is very hard on a weak or dead battery. Most times after a jump start, the battery will be shocked which causes plate material to fall off and collect at the bottom of the battery causing a dendrite short(s) between the plates. When and if this happens, the battery will no longer hold a full charge or will not have enough energy to start a C6.
Get the Red Top load tested to be assured that it is OK.
As for the red top battery, I bought a new one for my car, and 6 months later it wouldn't start the car. It had a bad cell in it, picked up by a load test of the battery.
BTW, jump starting a C6 is very hard on a weak or dead battery. Most times after a jump start, the battery will be shocked which causes plate material to fall off and collect at the bottom of the battery causing a dendrite short(s) between the plates. When and if this happens, the battery will no longer hold a full charge or will not have enough energy to start a C6.
Get the Red Top load tested to be assured that it is OK.
And if this battery is bad, I hope RT will replace it under warranty. If not, I'm getting the "regular" battery from Walmart or Costco, that's not so fancy and finiky like the Redtop.
10-23-2018, 06:32 AM
#15
Drifting
Those red tops get screwy if you do not keep a trickle charger on them while sitting. Other than that I have one for nearly 5 years and still going strong...
10-23-2018, 11:54 AM
#16
Race Director
Under normal op battery start 's engine, anything >20 minutes running replaces charge used starting.
Battery charged-up, why it could be started & everything function as it should.
Honestly, until it gives trouble, don't need to think about it.
Someone please explain to me the "purpose" of why the FOB is inserted into the slot? What does it do?
Problem here was not w/ FOB, IMO.
Glad you're up and running, again.
Just have the battery 'load-tested' soon while doing so is still convenient.
10-24-2018, 06:10 PM
#17
Safety Car
Thread Starter
UPDATE -
2 days later today: Just started the car and it fired up as it should. Just backed the car out from the garage to the driveway and let it warm up - this is when I noticed the daylight Amber lights are NOT on. I switched the car off, restarted...same thing. I check all signals & hazard lights - they work fine. So why the the DRLs not turning on now? This car has an electrical bug I think...
2 days later today: Just started the car and it fired up as it should. Just backed the car out from the garage to the driveway and let it warm up - this is when I noticed the daylight Amber lights are NOT on. I switched the car off, restarted...same thing. I check all signals & hazard lights - they work fine. So why the the DRLs not turning on now? This car has an electrical bug I think...
10-25-2018, 03:51 PM
#19
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
You said: "I have loved Corvettes all my life, but today I realized what POS it is." "FOBs are made of cheap plastic that fall apart for no reason" "These freaking electronics and their clicking sounds are crazy" "the the DRLs not turning on" "This car has an electrical bug I think" "1st Problem Ever in this car."
Maybe you need to go back to a C1, C2, or C3 with no FOBs, expensive plastic, no electronics, no clicking sounds, no DRLs, no electrical bugs, and lots more problems.
Maybe you need to go back to a C1, C2, or C3 with no FOBs, expensive plastic, no electronics, no clicking sounds, no DRLs, no electrical bugs, and lots more problems.
10-25-2018, 04:14 PM
#20
Drifting
UPDATE -
2 days later today: Just started the car and it fired up as it should. Just backed the car out from the garage to the driveway and let it warm up - this is when I noticed the daylight Amber lights are NOT on. I switched the car off, restarted...same thing. I check all signals & hazard lights - they work fine. So why the the DRLs not turning on now? This car has an electrical bug I think...
2 days later today: Just started the car and it fired up as it should. Just backed the car out from the garage to the driveway and let it warm up - this is when I noticed the daylight Amber lights are NOT on. I switched the car off, restarted...same thing. I check all signals & hazard lights - they work fine. So why the the DRLs not turning on now? This car has an electrical bug I think...