Fluid Change, Differential 2010 Grand Sport
10-31-2018, 08:26 PM
#1
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Fluid Change, Differential 2010 Grand Sport
I've been getting some hop in my 2010 Grand Sport in tight corners. In an effort to resolve the issue I picked up some Dexros 75W-90 LS fluid. I got under the car expecting to see a drain plug and a fill plug on the differential. What I found was NO drain plug and a bunch of tubes running up and down and front to back. It actually looks like the diff is sharing fluid with the transmission although I doubt this is the case. Do the transmission and differential share fluid? if so, what is the fluid they share?
If they both have their own fluid, how does one change the differential fluid. I'm not a four star wrencher but I am quite capable of basic fluid changes. It appears that one of the circulation pipes connectors would have to serve as a drain plug. The fill plug appears to be up top. Any input would be appreciated.
Bob
203-932-1270
BobManzella@yahoo.com
If they both have their own fluid, how does one change the differential fluid. I'm not a four star wrencher but I am quite capable of basic fluid changes. It appears that one of the circulation pipes connectors would have to serve as a drain plug. The fill plug appears to be up top. Any input would be appreciated.
Bob
203-932-1270
BobManzella@yahoo.com
11-02-2018, 12:26 AM
#3
Le Mans Master
My diff has a drain plug down low and a fill plug a couple of inches higher up. Both easily accessible from under the rear of the car.
Take a photo and post it up here so we can see what you are looking at
Take a photo and post it up here so we can see what you are looking at
11-02-2018, 10:30 AM
#5
I'm currently out of town away from my car, so I can't give you specifics. But you are right, there is no drain plug per se. You have to remove a small type of circlip that holds the line onto the housing. Be sure to put a rag or something over that clip before you remove it cause it will spring off into never never land. The fluid then drains out of that line. I'd loosen/remove the top fill port before removing the drain line just to make sure you don't lose all your fluid without being able to refill it.
Last edited by airmed2; 11-02-2018 at 10:31 AM.
11-02-2018, 11:06 PM
#10
Go go the home page and click over to page 8. There is a good write up with pics from a forum member for a Z06 which will be the same as a GS.
11-03-2018, 02:09 AM
#11
Here you go,
The GS diff has a oil cooler, so you have to remove the C spring clip from the lower cooler plug return line to drain the fluid out that way.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-specific.html
And no, the trans and the diff do not use the same fluid. They both have their own lines running to the their own coolers.
Also, don't forget to do your initial fill to the bottom of the filler plug, put the plug back on, run the car in gear on the jacks to fill the cooler lines back up, then pull the fill plug to top the diff off again to the bottom of the fill plug.
________________________________________ ____________
As for the OEM LDS clutch packs, double edge sword (good and bad) for HPDE type events.
The clutch packs work the same a posi track, meaning when the clutch packs are still good, should have a break away torque value per side of 100ft lbs on the axle nuts. Street driving, the packs last around 100K miles, while a lot of high speed road course work, you can wear the clutch packs out in less than 20K isntead.
And yes, due to the way the oem LDS clutch packs work with that 100lb break away value per side, you can get the inner wheel hop in the tight corners.
If you do get to the point that you are doing a lot of HPDE, then time really to change the OEM LDS out to a Qauife locker instead. The Quaife locker works off gear tension, not clutch pack tension, and is just a better diff locker pretty much all the way around for such. Hence in the tight corners, it will keep the outer tire from over spinning still,but still allows the inner tire to rotate correctly for that tight corner so the tire does not over spin/hop instead.
If you mean that the entire back end is wheel hopping on a power out of the corner, then that is a different problem isntead.
The problem is either too much power used on the way out (the GS is not set up as a drift car), and.or you need to tighten up the suspension points of the rear end . Here, rear trans mounts need to be stiffer so your not getting so much trans/diff bounce/deflection (Hinsonvmounts), and then at the least the inner lower A arm bushing need to be replaced with stiffer units as well.
Note, Ferrari uses mono ball bushings in their cars from the start, but they have to be replaced yearly.
Simply, the C6 is set up as a touring class sports car, and GM uses a lot of softer rubber bushing in the car to keep the ride on the softer side for street cruising. Over on the track side, this cause a lot of defection in the suspension end points, and leads to the problems like faster wheel hop under power instead.
The GS diff has a oil cooler, so you have to remove the C spring clip from the lower cooler plug return line to drain the fluid out that way.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-specific.html
And no, the trans and the diff do not use the same fluid. They both have their own lines running to the their own coolers.
Also, don't forget to do your initial fill to the bottom of the filler plug, put the plug back on, run the car in gear on the jacks to fill the cooler lines back up, then pull the fill plug to top the diff off again to the bottom of the fill plug.
________________________________________ ____________
As for the OEM LDS clutch packs, double edge sword (good and bad) for HPDE type events.
The clutch packs work the same a posi track, meaning when the clutch packs are still good, should have a break away torque value per side of 100ft lbs on the axle nuts. Street driving, the packs last around 100K miles, while a lot of high speed road course work, you can wear the clutch packs out in less than 20K isntead.
And yes, due to the way the oem LDS clutch packs work with that 100lb break away value per side, you can get the inner wheel hop in the tight corners.
If you do get to the point that you are doing a lot of HPDE, then time really to change the OEM LDS out to a Qauife locker instead. The Quaife locker works off gear tension, not clutch pack tension, and is just a better diff locker pretty much all the way around for such. Hence in the tight corners, it will keep the outer tire from over spinning still,but still allows the inner tire to rotate correctly for that tight corner so the tire does not over spin/hop instead.
If you mean that the entire back end is wheel hopping on a power out of the corner, then that is a different problem isntead.
The problem is either too much power used on the way out (the GS is not set up as a drift car), and.or you need to tighten up the suspension points of the rear end . Here, rear trans mounts need to be stiffer so your not getting so much trans/diff bounce/deflection (Hinsonvmounts), and then at the least the inner lower A arm bushing need to be replaced with stiffer units as well.
Note, Ferrari uses mono ball bushings in their cars from the start, but they have to be replaced yearly.
Simply, the C6 is set up as a touring class sports car, and GM uses a lot of softer rubber bushing in the car to keep the ride on the softer side for street cruising. Over on the track side, this cause a lot of defection in the suspension end points, and leads to the problems like faster wheel hop under power instead.
Last edited by Dano523; 11-03-2018 at 02:50 AM.
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joliett (11-13-2018)
11-13-2018, 11:06 AM
#13
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So based on the info I received on this forum I did the differential fluid change on my 2010 Grand Sport yesterday. Before starting the job I obtained the three quarts of the Dexron LS fluid and two spare "C" clips on Amazon ( at considerable cost savings compared to my local Chevy dealership). I also visited Harbor Freight and picked up a 4 piece pick set and a $6 pump to move the fluid.
Before I did anything I made sure the fill plug would come out, it did. I then removed the "C" clip using one of the picks I got at HF. No Problem, It was off with no damage in 5 seconds. Looking at the clip in the package I could see how it was positioned on the line and removal was a breeze. The fitting came out (pull towards the rear of the car) with no effort. About 2 and 1/3 quarts of fluid drained from the differential.
The fitting easily went back in and I installed one of the new clips (easy peesy). I then used my new HF pump to fill the differential. Due to my pumping enthusiasm I blew the hose off the pump and spilled some of the fluid. If I were to do it again I would tape the tubing on to the pump. I filled the diff to the bottom of the fill hole.
I then installed the plug and drove around the block at 10 mph. Back into the garage to top of the fluid. No leaks, no issues.
Want to thank Corvette Forum for the help with this maintenance. The hardest thing I had to do was get the car up and level.
Bob
Before I did anything I made sure the fill plug would come out, it did. I then removed the "C" clip using one of the picks I got at HF. No Problem, It was off with no damage in 5 seconds. Looking at the clip in the package I could see how it was positioned on the line and removal was a breeze. The fitting came out (pull towards the rear of the car) with no effort. About 2 and 1/3 quarts of fluid drained from the differential.
The fitting easily went back in and I installed one of the new clips (easy peesy). I then used my new HF pump to fill the differential. Due to my pumping enthusiasm I blew the hose off the pump and spilled some of the fluid. If I were to do it again I would tape the tubing on to the pump. I filled the diff to the bottom of the fill hole.
I then installed the plug and drove around the block at 10 mph. Back into the garage to top of the fluid. No leaks, no issues.
Want to thank Corvette Forum for the help with this maintenance. The hardest thing I had to do was get the car up and level.
Bob
11-13-2018, 02:51 PM
#15
I'm currently out of town away from my car, so I can't give you specifics. But you are right, there is no drain plug per se. You have to remove a small type of circlip that holds the line onto the housing. Be sure to put a rag or something over that clip before you remove it cause it will spring off into never never land. The fluid then drains out of that line. I'd loosen/remove the top fill port before removing the drain line just to make sure you don't lose all your fluid without being able to refill it.
