Cow Magnets
11-14-2018, 05:20 AM
#23
Le Mans Master
11-14-2018, 10:11 AM
#24
Safety Car
Catch cans are not a bad idea. I have a higher mileage LS2 (145k+ miles) and I noticed a whistling sound coming from the engine over 4k RPM. As it turned out, the throttle body had lots of oil deposits on it that was causing the whistle. After cleaning the crude off of it, it was nice and quiet. This was done about a year ago as well. A catch can would certainly help prevent as much crap getting back into the throttle body.
11-14-2018, 03:06 PM
#25
Burning Brakes
In the 80's when I was in my 20's I had a Vette that had a chic magnet and it worked great! I guess now they must have cow magnets, because now I attract a lot of cows.
Last edited by WhiteDevil828; 11-14-2018 at 03:10 PM.
11-14-2018, 03:39 PM
#26
Burning Brakes
Catch cans are not a bad idea. I have a higher mileage LS2 (145k+ miles) and I noticed a whistling sound coming from the engine over 4k RPM. As it turned out, the throttle body had lots of oil deposits on it that was causing the whistle. After cleaning the crude off of it, it was nice and quiet. This was done about a year ago as well. A catch can would certainly help prevent as much crap getting back into the throttle body.
This is a good read:
https://www.mishimoto.com/engineerin...at-is-blow-by/
Short answer: Yes.
11-14-2018, 03:57 PM
#27
Melting Slicks
11-14-2018, 05:16 PM
#28
It may be designed into the system, but that doesn't mean it is good for the motor to ingest oil; it is simply a solution to pass emissions and not vent the oil vapor into the atmosphere (because burning it in the combustion chamber and having it blow out of the exhaust is that much better, right?). As an automotive engineer once stated (I don't recall if it was here on these forums, or others), the only reason manufacturers do not install a catch can from the factory is because consumers are too lazy to check/empty them and just expect to put gas in their vehicles and drive off these days.
Now, will such a small amount of oil ingestion/burning be the death of your motor? No, probably not.
I was told by an engine builder that a catch-can does keep your piston tops and combustion chamber cleaner, and not having oil vapors mixed into the intake air does help with a more even burn, and thus more power, but the difference is negligible.
Just do your research and make an informed decision.
Now, will such a small amount of oil ingestion/burning be the death of your motor? No, probably not.
I was told by an engine builder that a catch-can does keep your piston tops and combustion chamber cleaner, and not having oil vapors mixed into the intake air does help with a more even burn, and thus more power, but the difference is negligible.
Just do your research and make an informed decision.
11-14-2018, 06:03 PM
#29
Burning Brakes
Overlooking the childish sarcasm, yes, burned oil residue will contribute to build up on pistons and intake valves. I prefer to have clean air mixed with my petrol when it ignites, not an air/oil-vapor mix. The research is there to prove catch can functionality and results of oil vapor ingestion, should you chose to do the work and look it up. Or carry on with know-it-all-ism, or do what you want with your car, your motor, and your blow-by.
11-15-2018, 12:58 AM
#31
Le Mans Master
How insightful and helpful.
Overlooking the childish sarcasm, yes, burned oil residue will contribute to build up on pistons and intake valves. I prefer to have clean air mixed with my petrol when it ignites, not an air/oil-vapor mix. The research is there to prove catch can functionality and results of oil vapor ingestion, should you chose to do the work and look it up. Or carry on with know-it-all-ism, or do what you want with your car, your motor, and your blow-by.
Overlooking the childish sarcasm, yes, burned oil residue will contribute to build up on pistons and intake valves. I prefer to have clean air mixed with my petrol when it ignites, not an air/oil-vapor mix. The research is there to prove catch can functionality and results of oil vapor ingestion, should you chose to do the work and look it up. Or carry on with know-it-all-ism, or do what you want with your car, your motor, and your blow-by.
11-15-2018, 09:54 AM
#33
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2014
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EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT CATCH CANS: (sorry Fats 
)
From 9/05/2018 on this thread:
======================================== =====================================
And by the way, BLACK WHEELS and STICK SHIFTS SUCK COW ***!
)From 9/05/2018 on this thread:
If there was any doubt that the catch can catches oil, then mine captured just over 3 oz in about 8000 miles of what I would consider to be normal driving. Sure, there were some extended runs at 80 or so, and some WOT passes on 2 lane roads, but I have to admit at being a bit surprised at the amount. The sump on the can was very easy to remove and replace.
Okay, so 3 fluid oz. is equivalent to 18 tsp. in 8,000 miles, or 1.8 tsp. per 800 miles, or .18 tsp. per 80 miles. Take a 1/4 tsp. (.25) measuring spoon from the kitchen, and imagine a bit less than that (.18) of oil going into your intake system to be burned, spread out over 80 miles.
This matters?
EDITED TO ADD: Using a standard dropper, about 98 drops fit into a teaspoon. Round it to 100, making it 18 drops per .18 tsp.
So 18 drops is being burned per 80 miles. That would be about .22 drops per mile, round that to 1/4 drop of oil per mile, divided into 8 cylinders, so if my math is right we end up with .03 drops per cylinder per mile.
This matters?
EDITED TO ADD: Using a standard dropper, about 98 drops fit into a teaspoon. Round it to 100, making it 18 drops per .18 tsp.
So 18 drops is being burned per 80 miles. That would be about .22 drops per mile, round that to 1/4 drop of oil per mile, divided into 8 cylinders, so if my math is right we end up with .03 drops per cylinder per mile.
And by the way, BLACK WHEELS and STICK SHIFTS SUCK COW ***!
11-15-2018, 10:44 AM
#34
How insightful and helpful.
Overlooking the childish sarcasm, yes, burned oil residue will contribute to build up on pistons and intake valves. I prefer to have clean air mixed with my petrol when it ignites, not an air/oil-vapor mix. The research is there to prove catch can functionality and results of oil vapor ingestion, should you chose to do the work and look it up. Or carry on with know-it-all-ism, or do what you want with your car, your motor, and your blow-by.
Overlooking the childish sarcasm, yes, burned oil residue will contribute to build up on pistons and intake valves. I prefer to have clean air mixed with my petrol when it ignites, not an air/oil-vapor mix. The research is there to prove catch can functionality and results of oil vapor ingestion, should you chose to do the work and look it up. Or carry on with know-it-all-ism, or do what you want with your car, your motor, and your blow-by.
11-15-2018, 11:47 AM
#35
Burning Brakes
Wow, that's some interesting math there, Bruze!
Out of curiousity, I applied it to my truck (which seems to have more blow-by than my 'Vette, but then again, my 'Vette only sees track duty these days, and my truck is my daily driver).
I empty the can of about 3 - 6 oz every 5000 miles with each oil change.
So 3oz - 6oz = 18tsp - 36tsp. 1tsp = 4.92892ml, so that's 88.7206ml - 177.44112ml per 5000 miles (or 1800 - 3600 "drops").
That equates out to .0178ml - .0355ml per mile (or .36 - .72 drops per mile!!!), which averages .0267ml / .5 drops per mile!
Scary stuff. And that is on a stock '10 Silverado w/6.2L L9H (LS3)...
Out of curiousity, I applied it to my truck (which seems to have more blow-by than my 'Vette, but then again, my 'Vette only sees track duty these days, and my truck is my daily driver).
I empty the can of about 3 - 6 oz every 5000 miles with each oil change.
So 3oz - 6oz = 18tsp - 36tsp. 1tsp = 4.92892ml, so that's 88.7206ml - 177.44112ml per 5000 miles (or 1800 - 3600 "drops").
That equates out to .0178ml - .0355ml per mile (or .36 - .72 drops per mile!!!), which averages .0267ml / .5 drops per mile!
Scary stuff. And that is on a stock '10 Silverado w/6.2L L9H (LS3)...
Last edited by R_W; 11-15-2018 at 11:48 AM.
11-15-2018, 12:56 PM
#36
Intake on the LS2 with 63k was oily no real puddles but oily, back of the valves had a little oil build up, and top of the port had a good amount of oily goop that I scraped off. I'm going to build a catch can and try it, why put up with excessive oil in the intake, reduced air flow from oil on valves, reduced port flow from it sticking to the walls of the port, and reduced octane from the oil vapor mix with premium fuel! This pic is the scraping from one port roof right where it meets the intake.
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R_W (11-16-2018)
11-15-2018, 05:56 PM
#37
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2010
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Since oil attracts dirt and as it dehydrates will from sludge, I want to minimize the build up inside my engine in addition to helping keep the pistons and valves cleaner. I like hpde-days, so the added stresses on the engine systems won't be quite as bad without the CC. Looking at Spin's pictures - if they are still available, is what sold me on the idea, not to mention the oil in can that I've drained over the miles, was not ingested into the motor.
Last edited by mikeCsix; 11-15-2018 at 06:07 PM.
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R_W (11-16-2018)
11-15-2018, 09:01 PM
#38
Race Director
hrottle body and looked inside, there were pools of oil that had been blown into the intake to be "recycled" through the combustion chambers thanks to the PCV system. After sopping up the oil and adding catch cans to both the Silverado and Corvette, there has never been another instance of pooled oil in the intake manifold on top of the motor.
11-16-2018, 12:01 AM
#39
Le Mans Master
Check out SpinMonster in the archives. He did a lot of top end work on his C-6's and had opportunity to R&R the heads on a cars with and without catch cans in about the 20k mile range IIR correctly. There was a noticeable difference in the piston tops and the valves between canned and non-canned motors, the canned motors were much cleaner.
Since oil attracts dirt and as it dehydrates will from sludge, I want to minimize the build up inside my engine in addition to helping keep the pistons and valves cleaner. I like hpde-days, so the added stresses on the engine systems won't be quite as bad without the CC. Looking at Spin's pictures - if they are still available, is what sold me on the idea, not to mention the oil in can that I've drained over the miles, was not ingested into the motor.
Since oil attracts dirt and as it dehydrates will from sludge, I want to minimize the build up inside my engine in addition to helping keep the pistons and valves cleaner. I like hpde-days, so the added stresses on the engine systems won't be quite as bad without the CC. Looking at Spin's pictures - if they are still available, is what sold me on the idea, not to mention the oil in can that I've drained over the miles, was not ingested into the motor.
11-16-2018, 05:56 AM
#40
Instructor
Cow magnets are a strong magnet you get the cow to swallow. The idea is to prevent “hardware’ disease. If a farmer leaves endless pieces of barb wire, wire, etc. on the ground and never picks up a cow might accidentally ingest. Without a magnet it travels to and through the 4 sectioned stomach eventually causing an issue. As the stomach churns it can force the sharp object through the stomach lining and easily into the heart with the expected results, With a magnet, the magnet drops to the bottom of the first stomach and “grabs” any metal in the first section where it can be the least damage thus preserving the cow. It works, but a better alternative is to simple keep your place clean and pic up after yourself and those before you.
I assume the magnets would grab any loose metal in a an automobile much like magnetic oil drain plug.
I assume the magnets would grab any loose metal in a an automobile much like magnetic oil drain plug.