Are Morimoto XB LED headlights causing radio reception problems?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Are Morimoto XB LED headlights causing radio reception problems?
Just wondering if anyone that has installed the new Morimoto headlight have noticed any radio reception issues as I have? See here.
Not bashing the headlights. I think its the fact that they are led's which are known to cause radio interference issues.
Not bashing the headlights. I think its the fact that they are led's which are known to cause radio interference issues.
Last edited by PDsVettes; 11-24-2018 at 05:05 PM.
#2
Drifting
Honestly, i don't use the radio (except for the iPod I have hooked to it), but see if disconnecting the fuse tap (assuming you have Gen1 lights) cures the problem. Just a thought ....
#4
Drifting
There are inexpensive harnesses available that eliminate the fuse tap if that is the problem. Easy to check ... just disconnect the tap. Then you will know if it is the DRL or the main LED that is causing the problem (if the lights are causing it at all). Even if you go the ferrite choke route you will need to know if it is the fuse tap or the main LED that is causing the issue.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Dennis, I notice that you have the harness from Radio Flyers. Just to verify, you do not have the fuse tap harness connected with the Radio Flyer harness and it works as advertised including flash to pass?
#6
Drifting
BTW, I have no connection to Radio Flyer ... just very happy with the harness since it fixed what I think was a major flaw in the Morimoto lights.
Last edited by 07MontyRed; 11-25-2018 at 07:01 AM.
#9
Racer
Can confirm both statements, have installled both sets.
The ones from vette-lights do still require the fuse tap. This addresses the DRL’s, but not the flash to pass function.
The ones from Radio Flyers gives complete C7 functionality as 07MontyRed outlined above. Think for the sale price, Radio Flyer harnesses are a good solution. They usually run $175.
Hope this helps,
Andy
The ones from vette-lights do still require the fuse tap. This addresses the DRL’s, but not the flash to pass function.
The ones from Radio Flyers gives complete C7 functionality as 07MontyRed outlined above. Think for the sale price, Radio Flyer harnesses are a good solution. They usually run $175.
Hope this helps,
Andy
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PDsVettes (11-25-2018)
#10
Drifting
It's really frustrating that none of the resellers, who are advertisers on the forum, are addressing any of the concerns around how the new Morimoto harness actually works, or if it works as advertised.
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Frankie15 (11-26-2018)
#13
Advanced
It’s the fuse tap location not the led’s. LEDs don’t create any EMF on a DC circuit. The remote possibility that they could cause EMF is on AC circuits where they have cheap power supplies that don’t clip the waveform cleanly due to lack of filtering on the rectified end of the circuit. Radios pickup stations through passive means on most mobile radios due to non-directional antennas. Adding new non-shielded circuits to a car could cause an issue, but LED’s themselves would not.
#15
Advanced
As a biomedical engineer and former electronic warfare specialist I will happily call BS on adding just leds to a car causing radio reception issues. Adding a wiring harness or large ballast resistors could cause the issue due to the right hand rule (google that if you actually want to learn something that could be causing your issue.). LEDs themselves nothing more than a small layering of doped silicone. They require anywhere from 1-2vdc depending on their color to forward bias them (turn it on). They also have a turn on current requirement. Companies and people utilize resistors to meet these requirements, please do some research before spreading misinformation.
#16
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Bexe, I took your advice and disconnected the fuse tap which causes the loss of the hockey stick drl's which require a switched 12v to work. This enabled radio reception to return to normal. However, turning on the headlights killed the radio reception. This is an image of the rear of the lights that I installed.
After looking at this, why do you think turning on the headlights causes the radio reception to go away? Do you think that ferrite chokes would help? Where exactly should I place one if you think they would work?
As far as spreading misinformation, just google what I told you to google. People have issues with just installing led's. I didn't write all those posts by other people. I'm just trying to fix my problem.
After looking at this, why do you think turning on the headlights causes the radio reception to go away? Do you think that ferrite chokes would help? Where exactly should I place one if you think they would work?
As far as spreading misinformation, just google what I told you to google. People have issues with just installing led's. I didn't write all those posts by other people. I'm just trying to fix my problem.
#17
Advanced
Understood. It’s whats behind and inside the housing that’s going to be the principal issue. Adding ferrite clamps to the wiring could help, but it honestly sounds like they should have a RC filter tied into the power side of their boards. This would clear up and issues with circuits giving bad EMF and reduce any noise. It was. Understand this is not a DC circuit like on our car, but the function is still the same. I’ve found a lot of network issues on machines I’ve worked on that are in the portable x-ray industry have these issues on their boards causing interference and a ferrite is my first test to see if it cleans it up. The other idea is extending your antenna size. I believe the one pictured above in the thread is for gps/satellite radio. I would have to search more to confirm. I haven’t got into the radios on these cars much as I upgraded my head unit and never use the tuner function. Most of the time when you have interference from a component such as an led that has little EMF at all its from the accompanying resistive circuit to allow the LED’s to forward bias on a circuit originally not designed for led functions. I.E. a car that does not have a led power supply, but uses aftermarket configurations to make it “work”. I have the generation two headlights coming my way to be shipped tomorrow so possibly next week I’ll have them in my hands. I’ll see what my gauss meter says when in comparison to the stock headlights in x,y, and z axis on both and give you more feedback. A faraday cage only works if it is fully enclosed which is not possible on this application. For instance an MRI room is fully enclosed with a small port to allow pass through of cables and wires, but overall it is considered enclosed (hence the term “Cage”. You could possibly direct the emf better by adding a foil layer to the back of the lights and grounding it to chassis though (it’s not likely this will fix it entirely).
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PDsVettes (11-27-2018)
#20
Advanced
also I read through and watched the “googling” it solidifies my standpoint that it’s in the power supply and delivery of power to the LED’s not the LED’s themselves causing the EMI. The EMI is being created by cheap components in the power circuits due to inductive reactance from unshielded components. They’re cheaper. Give the dual wind method with a Ferrite choke a try (where you get a ferrite big enough to do a loop around the ferrite so the wire passes through twice. The closer to the source the better so I’d add it near the entry of the harness to the headlight and zip tie it in place. I’d also secure the ferrite and not allow it to just hang on the wiring because it will eventually cause the harness fail so stress relief to be safe.