jaredtxrx

Almost forgot. You'll want a ground wire kit for less OHMS. It keeps your grounds more grounded. This is obviously one made for Racing.

demon340

Bruze

I have some anecdotal examples along this train of thought, most of which is dated but still relevant to some degree.

1) On previously-mentioned 327 Camaro, I installed a C1 Corvette dual point distributor I bought from a friend. I never took it to the strip, but it made zero difference on the street.

2) I had a '74 900cc Kawasaki motorcycle with points ignition. Even if the points were a bit crappy or out of adjustment it still ran fine, no skips even at the 9,000 RPM redline.

3) I had an '88 Harley Softail with electronic ignition. It was only two years old and it crapped out, had to get it flatbedded home. I bought an aftermarket electronic ignition but could never get it adjusted right so I took it back. I did a little investigating and found I could convert it to points for about ten bucks, plus the cost of the points and condenser (maybe another ten bucks. They were 6-cylinder Chevy points). The part of the engine casting that the ignition went into hadn't changed in decades and it was a simple screw-in job.

It started better, hot or cold, than it did with the electronic ignition. A buddy of mine had ridden it quite a bit and commented on how much better it ran than his Harley did. I carried an extra set of points and condenser with me, but never needed them in the 25 years I ran it with points. I sold it in 2015 to a guy I know, still runs great, guy loves it.

So to boil it all down, what Blindspot said is pretty much true: ignition is ignition. The precision of today's ignition systems was likely driven by Washington mandates for ever-increasing emissions and mileage standards -- not that the engine runs noticeably better or puts out more noticeable power.


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cgladish

my money is going with the original plugs & wires.
I've had my '09 for almost two years now ( 98k miles when I got it ).
I just replaced the plugs & wires @ 138k miles. as far as I could tell, these were the original pieces.
I only replaced them since I felt it was time. this mileage & performance were both doing great.
one plug was missing the entire electrode. the remaining ones were mostly close to the stock gap.
a couple of the wires were dry rotted and broke upon removal.
I replaced with original delco 41-110 units & stock wires.
my car is totally stock & if these last another 100+ miles, I won't complain a bit.

Borg Motorsports

You really need to define what "BEST" means to you. Does "best" mean most power, longest lasting, longest lasting per dollar spent, etc.?

Likewise, if you street drive and don't spend much time at WOT, you will want something different than a drag race only car running methanol, which would want something different than a road race car.

My experience is only with C5's, so take that as you will, but the Brisk Racing plugs that jaredtxrx mentioned (thanks for the shoutout) are what I consider the best for a road racing application. I have customers that run them on the street and have not reported any issues, but as I mentioned above, everyone's definition of good/better/best is different. I had plenty of success running traditional plugs before I switched to the Brisk ones.

So about the Brisk plugs mentioned, they are classified as surface-fire spark plugs. Similar to the electrodeless plugs you'll see in racing, these plugs are designed to run the spark across the nose insulation before arcing across an air gap to the electrode (or outer ring of the plug in the racing versions). The electrical resistance to an arc running along the surface of an insulator is less than that of going through a compressed air-gas mixture for the same distance. Because of that, a larger total gap (insulator and air) can be designed into a surface fire style plug. The end result is a larger spark, and therefore a larger initial flame kernel than with a traditional plug. Think of it as igniting three times the initial number of fuel and oxygen molecules as a traditional plug.

There are some other benefits like better cold starting and a more exposed spark/flame kernel that negates the need to index the plugs.

Overall though, these advantages are on the level of serious race teams only, specifically teams that are in limited prep classes. For something like SCCA autocross in Street classes where you can only change plugs and a cat back, and championships are won by thousandths of a second, this sort of thing makes a difference. The example from my testing (back to back, new standard plugs to new Brisk plugs) was 7 HP and 9 ft-lbs (you can see the results on the site here or in my BS Build Thread on the forum). That's great for a plug change, but it's also only about 2.1% and 2.8% rear wheel gains respectively To some people (like me and my race/track cars) that matters. To anyone asking me about their street car, I would say spend your money on other things. Some of that gain would be negated by being able to tune your car (which we did not do for the test, it was the stock GM LS1 tune), but not all. If you aren't restricted by race rules, you would likely be looking at 1-2% total gains that you would be unlikely to feel.

Since it sounds like you don't have a specific ruleset for your car, I think a number of the plugs mentioned would be fine. If you do have a specific race build you're working on (or just want to know more about the science behind these plugs), just let me know and I'd be happy to help. Hope that helps

TheMTazzi

the irony of the funnin' here is that there is correlated science behind my question which is supported by dyno proven fact, not just marketing. the granetelli wires are between 0.01 and 0.00 ohm which means money well spent for someone with a mother ******* am radio transmitter for the iphone. thats significantly less interference. the stock wires are like .2000. not only that but if you know anything about how a lighting rod works and electrical conductivity, then one would know that a wire using less ohms would be more efficient in supplying the flow of energy to the plugs. less resistance in the type of wire material they use. if you do some research yourself you would find that multiple dyno shops including my own tune time performance can agree with the plug and wires. my prior c6 on the dyno when i had it tuned was having issues related to the spark plugs with there most aggressive tune and they highly recommended the tune up. with this being said. on said vet with just the new plugs and wires, i have no clue what they put in last time. was ******* 20rwhp. i went from 340 to the 360 after a damn tune up and retune. idk about this marketing thing lol...tune time is pretty reputable....

Mlcharlestonsc

I'm lost... In your op your not sure about plugs you purchased took back and then asked us what should I do? Concenses say stick with stock. So you bash us for our input and sarcastic comments only to now do a 180 and shout from the roof top that you have stat data and now a tune, saying Dyno time proves all.

I CALL B.S. You TROLL.... Me I'm sticking with OEM.

WW7

I agree, he went from being undecided and confused, to an expert on car electrical systems in a very short time.. Seems a little funny to me also...WW

BlindSpot

What a complete waste of time! My posts deleted and done with this guy.

dr_gallup

Tens of thousands of ohms resistance in the spark gap and 1 or 2 ohms of plug wire resistance is going to make a difference? You know the secondary winding of the ignition coil has a lot more resistance than that don't you? The difference is 99.999% of the coil energy is delivered to the gap vs 99.99%.

BackInBlack05

I'm sticking with stickers. Known hp adders.

Mike's LS3

To the OP:

Two heat range colder plugs are designed for engines 150-200 more HP, whether the engine is N/A or S/C. A colder plug transfers heat faster from the tip to the combustion chamber, keeping the plug tip cooler. This helps prevent detonation because higher performance engines can produce higher combustion chamber temps. Running a plug too cold for and engine can cause the plug to foul out.

In your case, with only and intake, it is best to stay in the stock heat range, whatever plug you prefer. I would recommend the stock AC plugs and wires.

The NGK Iridium are good plugs and I run them, but I am boosted.

Keep the stock gap! Your application has no reason to change heat range or spark plug gap. One reason boosted engines run tighter gaps is to prevent spark blow out.

As far a spark plug wires, I run the oem wires (750 ohms) and they are just fine.

Turbo6TA

That's just silly !

I'm going with the proven big power adder ... The 'Electric Supercharger' !

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Mlcharlestonsc

A SC for $179 at that price I can get one for each plug.

BackInBlack05

That's cuz it comes with stickers, or at least the high performance model does..

HOXXOH

Just for reference, my '08 base bolt-on runs high 10's in the 1/4, has the original wires and balancer, averages slightly over 10K miles between oil changes, is currently at 155K miles, however I'm on the third set of AC Delco 41-110 plugs. I also have the original water pump, hoses, belts, AC compressor, etc. I have used up the OEM rotors, 2 alternators, 6 sets of tires, several brake pads, and damaged the radiator.

Best of luck to you with that low mileage babied LS2, if it doesn't eat your wallet first.

BTW, leave the potty mouth at home if you want to stay in the good graces of the moderators here.

Bruze

I hope you got the right plugs and wires!

Turbo6TA

Ouch !

HBsurfer

Internet tough guys rule!!

Bruze

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