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New to the Vette world. I have a question regarding the best choice C6's.

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Old 12-30-2018, 06:30 PM
  #21  
S.C. vette
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Avoid the 05/6 years, LS2 engines, HB wobble. Look for final two years, in GS trim and avoid high mileage.
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vett_guy (12-30-2018)
Old 12-30-2018, 08:26 PM
  #22  
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When you find a car you are interested in, ask the seller to take it to their nearest Chevrolet dealer and have a vehicle pre-purchase inspection, too. The dealership will generally do that for free as anything they suggest to be repaired, they are hoping will be done there. They can also run a vehicle history service report that will show the maintenance records of the vehicle and if there are any outstanding recalls, yet to be done. All of that should be free, and if you do not purchase the vehicle, the seller already has that to offer the next buyer. If the seller sees that as an inconvenience or a "hassle", walk away from it. They are likely not being up front about something and their trustworthiness would be in question. With the dealer inspection, vehicle history report, a CarFax, and a paid independent inspection report I mentioned earlier, you should have enough info about the car to make an informed decision to travel and purchase.
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vett_guy (12-30-2018)
Old 12-30-2018, 10:30 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by S.C. vette
Avoid the 05/6 years, LS2 engines, HB wobble. Look for final two years, in GS trim and avoid high mileage.
I will steer clear of the LS2's...thank you. I just spoke to a friend that has the LS2 in his camaro, 135,000 miles, and he said he's had to replace the HB twice now. I don't really want to spend the money for a '12 or '13...especially a GS model. I'm more able to afford an '08-'09, my last kid is in her first year of college so I'd prefer to be more conservative. Hell with what that's costing I could buy a 2013 GS every year for the next 3 years!

Originally Posted by DezVette
When you find a car you are interested in, ask the seller to take it to their nearest Chevrolet dealer and have a vehicle pre-purchase inspection, too. The dealership will generally do that for free as anything they suggest to be repaired, they are hoping will be done there. They can also run a vehicle history service report that will show the maintenance records of the vehicle and if there are any outstanding recalls, yet to be done. All of that should be free, and if you do not purchase the vehicle, the seller already has that to offer the next buyer. If the seller sees that as an inconvenience or a "hassle", walk away from it. They are likely not being up front about something and their trustworthiness would be in question. With the dealer inspection, vehicle history report, a CarFax, and a paid independent inspection report I mentioned earlier, you should have enough info about the car to make an informed decision to travel and purchase.
Thank you for the sound advice! I'm going to put the brakes on my search and take all the suggestions I've received to find the exact car I want instead of compromising.

Last edited by vett_guy; 12-30-2018 at 10:41 PM.
Old 12-30-2018, 11:45 PM
  #24  
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Any LS engine can get HB wobble. LS2, LS3, LS7, LS9... doesnt matter. The newer engines seem better, but theres mo real data on it.

A bit of advice, but the car you want the first time, not the car you "feel like you can afford". When you buy the deal instead of the car, you regret it and end up buying the car you want eventually anyways, usually at a loss.
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vett_guy (12-31-2018)
Old 12-31-2018, 12:17 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by FAUEE
Any LS engine can get HB wobble. LS2, LS3, LS7, LS9... doesnt matter. The newer engines seem better, but theres mo real data on it.

A bit of advice, but the car you want the first time, not the car you "feel like you can afford". When you buy the deal instead of the car, you regret it and end up buying the car you want eventually anyways, usually at a loss.
I can agree with that. I'm thinking about adding a few bucks to the budget after reading some more. I can afford a brand new one if I wanted but I'm trying to be budget conscious.
Old 12-31-2018, 12:47 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by vett_guy
I can agree with that. I'm thinking about adding a few bucks to the budget after reading some more. I can afford a brand new one if I wanted but I'm trying to be budget conscious.
Another direction might be to buy a lower priced higher mileage car to get a better feel for what you ultimately want and can more comfortably afford in 3 years when the daughter graduates. A 70-90K mile '08-'10 in decent shape will most likely give you 30K more trouble free miles with little depreciation.
Old 12-31-2018, 09:21 AM
  #27  
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Skip the 05 due to the weaker rear end, one year only pcm, and the 4L60/65E if you want an auto. Don't get in a hurry to buy. Beyond that, you have already gotten the good pointers.
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Old 12-31-2018, 09:50 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
Another direction might be to buy a lower priced higher mileage car to get a better feel for what you ultimately want and can more comfortably afford in 3 years when the daughter graduates. A 70-90K mile '08-'10 in decent shape will most likely give you 30K more trouble free miles with little depreciation.
Certainly a good idea, though I would ensure the mileage stays under 80k. 90 to 90k seems to be q big drop off in resale for these cars, when it goes from "used" to "that's a lot of miles".

That said, I think things like color and body style you want arent going to change over time. You might find out about a limited edition you really want after spending time on here, but if you come in wanting a 427 vert, wait 3 years in a base car, chances are you will still want a 427 vert and may as well just buy it the first time.
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Old 12-31-2018, 10:33 AM
  #29  
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Vette Guy, you are 4hrs away from hundreds of new/used car dealers... you live on I26 and 95 north or south get out and start looking around. The Web will lead you to them on the way out and back, once you have enough wheel time and working with salesmen you’ll know within a month of looking exactly what you want and the pricing in our area. No two dealers will rep a car the same way, or get to the same bottom line price. Then there’s private party sales sellers, a whole new world. The point being, get out there and kick some tires...
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Old 12-31-2018, 11:06 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by BadAV
Skip the 05 due to the weaker rear end, one year only pcm, and the 4L60/65E if you want an auto. Don't get in a hurry to buy. Beyond that, you have already gotten the good pointers.
Will do, Thank you!



Originally Posted by S.C. vette
Vette Guy, you are 4hrs away from hundreds of new/used car dealers... you live on I26 and 95 north or south get out and start looking around. The Web will lead you to them on the way out and back, once you have enough wheel time and working with salesmen you’ll know within a month of looking exactly what you want and the pricing in our area. No two dealers will rep a car the same way, or get to the same bottom line price. Then there’s private party sales sellers, a whole new world. The point being, get out there and kick some tires...
At first I didn't even think of driving 4 hours to buy a car but as I look and see what's available locally I don't see much available that interests me. It looks like a few road trips are in my future.
Old 12-31-2018, 05:55 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by vett_guy
But wouldn't the 03-04 Z06 have the same HP and price as the base C6? Also...they're all hard tops if I'm not mistaken, right?
Depends the year of C6. Drive one of each and tell me if you can tell the difference. The Z06 will be more raw and the C6 more of a touring feel by comparison. The Z06 will hold its resale value better. Yes, the Z06 is a fixed roof.




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