Battery drain...redux
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Battery drain...redux
So, after having the battery drain down twice, I purchased a battery tender to keep the battery charged.
Over the holidays, we visited our daughter in Southeast Asia, so we were away for sixteen days. The battery tender was hooked up. At some point during that time the GFCI it was plugged in to popped, so there was no indication of power on the tender when we arrived home. Despite this, and waiting another two days before I could actually get the car out on the road, it started with no problem, and I took it out for a 50 mile drive. Amperage showed 14.5+ the whole trip, which is as high as I normally see. The car sat another two days, and the battery was totally drained.
It is now on the tender, but it is making a rather disconcerting clicking noise, which it typically does not make. I am inclined to disconnect it, but have not yet. Any suggestions?
We have four cars, and have owned numerous others, and this is the first car that requires a battery tender and the first that has drained the battery just sitting. When I turn the car off, I turn off the Heating/AC, the radio, the seat heaters if they were used, and turn the light selector back to turn off any lights that are on; car in Reverse, and brake on. Then I lock the car with the fob to kill internal lights. I assume that it draws a little power for the trip computer, but that should be negligible, and it is hardly the only car with a trip computer. I love the car, but this is annoying as hell. Just for information, does anyone know what actually causes this?
Over the holidays, we visited our daughter in Southeast Asia, so we were away for sixteen days. The battery tender was hooked up. At some point during that time the GFCI it was plugged in to popped, so there was no indication of power on the tender when we arrived home. Despite this, and waiting another two days before I could actually get the car out on the road, it started with no problem, and I took it out for a 50 mile drive. Amperage showed 14.5+ the whole trip, which is as high as I normally see. The car sat another two days, and the battery was totally drained.
It is now on the tender, but it is making a rather disconcerting clicking noise, which it typically does not make. I am inclined to disconnect it, but have not yet. Any suggestions?
We have four cars, and have owned numerous others, and this is the first car that requires a battery tender and the first that has drained the battery just sitting. When I turn the car off, I turn off the Heating/AC, the radio, the seat heaters if they were used, and turn the light selector back to turn off any lights that are on; car in Reverse, and brake on. Then I lock the car with the fob to kill internal lights. I assume that it draws a little power for the trip computer, but that should be negligible, and it is hardly the only car with a trip computer. I love the car, but this is annoying as hell. Just for information, does anyone know what actually causes this?
#2
Safety Car
Need a little more data. Year, options, added equipment, etc. there are several ways to track a parasitic battery drain in past discussions on the forum. Search the archives for some ideas. Sources can be radio/navigation system not going to sleep, on-star module, map lights, relay not functioning and the list goes on and on. You’ll need an ohm meter, patience and some basic knowledge of the Vette systems or the phone number of a good dealer or local Vette shop.
#3
Burning Brakes
So, after having the battery drain down twice, I purchased a battery tender to keep the battery charged.
Over the holidays, we visited our daughter in Southeast Asia, so we were away for sixteen days. The battery tender was hooked up. At some point during that time the GFCI it was plugged in to popped, so there was no indication of power on the tender when we arrived home. Despite this, and waiting another two days before I could actually get the car out on the road, it started with no problem, and I took it out for a 50 mile drive. Amperage showed 14.5+ the whole trip, which is as high as I normally see. The car sat another two days, and the battery was totally drained.
It is now on the tender, but it is making a rather disconcerting clicking noise, which it typically does not make. I am inclined to disconnect it, but have not yet. Any suggestions?
We have four cars, and have owned numerous others, and this is the first car that requires a battery tender and the first that has drained the battery just sitting. When I turn the car off, I turn off the Heating/AC, the radio, the seat heaters if they were used, and turn the light selector back to turn off any lights that are on; car in Reverse, and brake on. Then I lock the car with the fob to kill internal lights. I assume that it draws a little power for the trip computer, but that should be negligible, and it is hardly the only car with a trip computer. I love the car, but this is annoying as hell. Just for information, does anyone know what actually causes this?
Over the holidays, we visited our daughter in Southeast Asia, so we were away for sixteen days. The battery tender was hooked up. At some point during that time the GFCI it was plugged in to popped, so there was no indication of power on the tender when we arrived home. Despite this, and waiting another two days before I could actually get the car out on the road, it started with no problem, and I took it out for a 50 mile drive. Amperage showed 14.5+ the whole trip, which is as high as I normally see. The car sat another two days, and the battery was totally drained.
It is now on the tender, but it is making a rather disconcerting clicking noise, which it typically does not make. I am inclined to disconnect it, but have not yet. Any suggestions?
We have four cars, and have owned numerous others, and this is the first car that requires a battery tender and the first that has drained the battery just sitting. When I turn the car off, I turn off the Heating/AC, the radio, the seat heaters if they were used, and turn the light selector back to turn off any lights that are on; car in Reverse, and brake on. Then I lock the car with the fob to kill internal lights. I assume that it draws a little power for the trip computer, but that should be negligible, and it is hardly the only car with a trip computer. I love the car, but this is annoying as hell. Just for information, does anyone know what actually causes this?
Last edited by Icecap; 01-06-2019 at 05:47 PM.
#4
Intermediate
Thread Starter
It is a 2005 base model. No navigation. The only modification I am aware of is Flowmaster exhaust.
The map lights are taken care of by locking the car. I never leave the garage until they dim. Still baffled as to how quickly it can drain. Never owned a car that had a problem like this.
Just checked again, and the battery tender indicated the battery is bad. I guess I will see how good the warranty on it is, since it is less than a year old.
The map lights are taken care of by locking the car. I never leave the garage until they dim. Still baffled as to how quickly it can drain. Never owned a car that had a problem like this.
Just checked again, and the battery tender indicated the battery is bad. I guess I will see how good the warranty on it is, since it is less than a year old.
Last edited by WaryOldGuy; 01-07-2019 at 09:27 AM.
#5
Burning Brakes
It is a 2005 base model. No navigation. The map lights are taken care of by locking the car. I never leave the garage until they dim.
Still baffled as to how quickly it can drain. Never owned a car that had a problem like this.
Just checked again, and the battery tender indicated the battery is bad. I guess I will see how good the warranty on it is, since it is less than a year old.
Still baffled as to how quickly it can drain. Never owned a car that had a problem like this.
Just checked again, and the battery tender indicated the battery is bad. I guess I will see how good the warranty on it is, since it is less than a year old.
Last edited by Icecap; 01-06-2019 at 10:20 PM.
#6
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2014
Location: Below the bottom of Berby Hollow, NYS
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It is a 2005 base model. No navigation. The map lights are taken care of by locking the car. I never leave the garage until they dim.
Still baffled as to how quickly it can drain. Never owned a car that had a problem like this.
Just checked again, and the battery tender indicated the battery is bad. I guess I will see how good the warranty on it is, since it is less than a year old.
Still baffled as to how quickly it can drain. Never owned a car that had a problem like this.
Just checked again, and the battery tender indicated the battery is bad. I guess I will see how good the warranty on it is, since it is less than a year old.
Other guys: Isn't there something about '05 sticks that must be parked in reverse, or it causes some battery drain?
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Not sure that the car has On Star, there is no "button" for it. I would think the draw for the BCM and ECM should be negligible. There are other threads indicating that it can be improper grounds, to various systems, and that the connectors are typically not greased, and can degrade due to corrosion.
What bothers me the most is that it is inconsistent. I have left the car for weeks with no problem, and in this case, it is dead after mere days. It looks like it will require a new battery. After that, I may take it to a shop that specializes in Corvettes to see if they have any ideas regarding the problem. I am not enough of a mechanic to work this out myself.
What bothers me the most is that it is inconsistent. I have left the car for weeks with no problem, and in this case, it is dead after mere days. It looks like it will require a new battery. After that, I may take it to a shop that specializes in Corvettes to see if they have any ideas regarding the problem. I am not enough of a mechanic to work this out myself.
#8
Team Owner
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Location: Below the bottom of Berby Hollow, NYS
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Not sure that the car has On Star, there is no "button" for it. I would think the draw for the BCM and ECM should be negligible. There are other threads indicating that it can be improper grounds, to various systems, and that the connectors are typically not greased, and can degrade due to corrosion.
What bothers me the most is that it is inconsistent. I have left the car for weeks with no problem, and in this case, it is dead after mere days. It looks like it will require a new battery. After that, I may take it to a shop that specializes in Corvettes to see if they have any ideas regarding the problem. I am not enough of a mechanic to work this out myself.
What bothers me the most is that it is inconsistent. I have left the car for weeks with no problem, and in this case, it is dead after mere days. It looks like it will require a new battery. After that, I may take it to a shop that specializes in Corvettes to see if they have any ideas regarding the problem. I am not enough of a mechanic to work this out myself.
#9
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Yes, it is manual. The C6 must also be in Reverse when the engine is shut down. Mentioned this in OP
Last edited by WaryOldGuy; 01-07-2019 at 09:27 AM.
#12
Race Director
Sounds like a parasitic draw, not really rare w/ C6.
When certain components fail they do not turn off, ergo excess draw.
Did this just start, or gradually over ownership time?
Some Onstar modules were found to be problematic, weren't going to sleep, check for black box behind mirror/top of windshield.
If one's there try disconnecting, pull OS' fuse & see what does/doesn't happen.
Even recall a member claimed a failing stereo source of drain for him.
Source could be any # of things.
Each circuit must be measured to ascertain what's going to sleep as it should & what isn't.
Discover the leak's source and it can be fixed.
Just hope tech's lucky finding it right away, diagnostic time adds up fast.
When certain components fail they do not turn off, ergo excess draw.
Did this just start, or gradually over ownership time?
Some Onstar modules were found to be problematic, weren't going to sleep, check for black box behind mirror/top of windshield.
If one's there try disconnecting, pull OS' fuse & see what does/doesn't happen.
Even recall a member claimed a failing stereo source of drain for him.
Source could be any # of things.
Each circuit must be measured to ascertain what's going to sleep as it should & what isn't.
Discover the leak's source and it can be fixed.
Just hope tech's lucky finding it right away, diagnostic time adds up fast.
#13
Drifting
Do you live in one of the snow regions, NE, NW? Keep the car outdoors, or in a open garage/car port? It could be rodents getting in and chewing your wires. It happened to my Silverado when I lived in NY!
#14
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Member Since: Mar 2010
Location: T-Town WA
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2016 C6 of Year Finalist
Go see your dealer. If memory serves there was a DBS (Dead Battery Syndrome) that GM had a computer re-flash to take care of. Ask the dealer to print (and give you) the repair history on your car. It will show whether it has been addressed...
Ask about this:
"GM released an ECM update to help with potential battery drain issues, as per PIC4188G"
Good luck.
Ask about this:
"GM released an ECM update to help with potential battery drain issues, as per PIC4188G"
Good luck.
Last edited by ruxvette; 01-07-2019 at 04:23 PM.
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Landru (01-08-2019)
#15
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Bought this car used from an Acura dealership, and short of the battery problems, I have not had any issues. The local Chevy dealers around here are pretty poorly reviewed, so I am not inclined to take it to them. Can the repair history be run by any GM dealership? I am assuming that since it is a flash of the ECM, this can only be done by GM service; again, can this be done by any GM dealership, or do I need to risk going to one of these very poorly rated dealerships.
#16
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2016 C6 of Year Finalist
Any GM dealer can run the service history. If it's a non-Chev dealer I would ask the service department about doing the flash when they print the history. Also ask for the build sheet. It will show the born date and all options.
These are about the only free things you will get from a dealer.
These are about the only free things you will get from a dealer.
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WaryOldGuy (01-08-2019)
#17
Race Director
May very well be one of those '05s that never got the update.
Now, will GM try to fleece OP for re-flash considering GMs 'warranties' are usually limited to 10 years.
#18
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I am in Southeastern PA. The car is garaged, not that I have not trapped vermin there, but I do not think that is the problem. I am pretty sure that it is a parasitic draw.
Short of this battery problem, the biggest issues I have with the car are the electronic doors and the lack of ability to use a key to actually start the beast. I guess I am old school, but it seems sort of round-about to have to open the hatch to pull a mechanical cord to open the driver's door. It would not surprise me if it was the door circuit causing the issue.
Short of this battery problem, the biggest issues I have with the car are the electronic doors and the lack of ability to use a key to actually start the beast. I guess I am old school, but it seems sort of round-about to have to open the hatch to pull a mechanical cord to open the driver's door. It would not surprise me if it was the door circuit causing the issue.
#19
Intermediate
Thread Starter
A little more history. Today, AAA sent someone to check the battery because it was purchased from them, and is still in warranty. Their "tech" indicated that it was still good, and could be recharged, despite the fact that the car could not be jumped by via their portable booster or the truck. Curiously, when either was applied, the headlights went on since the garage was dark enough, the starting button indicated Accessory mode, the radio turned on and the heater was turned on. When I shut the car off, I had turned all of that off.
I put the battery tender on, and when I went back to look, some 20 minutes later, it was, again, indicating a bad battery. Checking the manual for the tender, one of the reasons for the bad battery indicator is:
I put the battery tender on, and when I went back to look, some 20 minutes later, it was, again, indicating a bad battery. Checking the manual for the tender, one of the reasons for the bad battery indicator is:
The battery won't hold a charge. May be caused by a drain on the battery or the battery could be dead. Make sure there are no loads on the battery. If there are remove them. If there are none, have the battery checked or replaced.At this point I will be disconnecting the battery and leaving it on the battery tender. If it still indicates it is a bad battery, then I will replace the battery.
I found an article on Surviving Dead Battery Syndrome in a C6 and it indicated that it is the BCM that needs flashing and that it is specific to the 2005 with manual transmission. I called a local Buick/GMC dealer that had reasonably good reviews, and while helpful, they did not know much about it, and did not find any information on my VIN. I will stop by and see if I can get a printout.
I phoned Chevrolet directly, and while they were pleasant and very sorry for the inconvenience, were of no help at all. I then registered online to use the service history tool which gave zero information regarding service on my VIN.
I found an article on Surviving Dead Battery Syndrome in a C6 and it indicated that it is the BCM that needs flashing and that it is specific to the 2005 with manual transmission. I called a local Buick/GMC dealer that had reasonably good reviews, and while helpful, they did not know much about it, and did not find any information on my VIN. I will stop by and see if I can get a printout.
I phoned Chevrolet directly, and while they were pleasant and very sorry for the inconvenience, were of no help at all. I then registered online to use the service history tool which gave zero information regarding service on my VIN.
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Landru (01-09-2019)