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Jacking Pucks will be needed- yes even on a base car
The harbor freight torque wrench should be fine. Car Craft did a test against a HF, snap on, mac, craftsman and a couple of others and the HF unit one the test for out of the box performance and repeatability. https://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-ha...nch-62431.html
I also buy the sockets that have a protective sleeve on the outside so I do not scratch the wheels. https://www.harborfreight.com/catalo...=lined+sockets
I am a big fan of the Milwaukie 1/2" - 1100 foot pound impact - its way more than you need but man does it make life easy https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Produc...enches/2763-22
I also use a roller to line up the wheel with the studs, simply to easy to scratch the barrel of the wheel on the brake disc or scratch the rotor - I man handled wheels for years, even bigger than the corvette, I discovered that I did not have to with the rollers and my life and my back are much happier. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piec...ies-67338.html
I am going to buy the tools because I want to be able to look under the car once in a while... Even if not to do major work, but just to inspect and know what's going on. Also would like to learn to change the oil!
Where can I buy quality but not exorbitantly expensive automotive tools? Would a regular parts store have them, or Home Depot? I would prefer NOT online for this type of stuff!
I'll get a bunch of push back, probably, but go to Harbor Freight for the floor jack, jack stands, torque wrench, breaker bar, etc. Buy the sturdier versions if you see multiple kinds. YouTube videos of whatever you're trying to do. Wheel lugs - star pattern. Rub a little oil on the oil filter gasket before tightening, Check owners manual regarding lift points. Carefully check jack stands, and jack before getting under getting under the car - Take extra time for safety!
I've never regretted buying a quality tool. Harbor Freight stuff is all over the place, some is good, some is cr@p. Nothing pisses me off more than breaking a tool and having to buy another. Just think how many times you are going to use it. Once, borrow it. Twice, buy a cheap one. For the rest of your life, buy a good one.
I agree with the others. 40 years ago I working in the shop of an excavation company and I bought some tools off the Snap on truck. I still have them and they still work and look like new.. They will out last me and probably last another generation.
The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten
Jack stand pucks depends on what kind of jack stands you're using. I don't use them with mine. Car has little spots that fit perfectly onto these flat spots. Most American jack stands use the pinch weld receiver style. You can find this style on Amazon, just search aluminum jack stands.
I have 4, for tire mounting / rotation you can only go side to side anyhow (rears are different size) so 2 would be the minimum you need.
Thanks for the links. I expected the aluminum ones to be more expensive...
Is the plastic "better"?
I have the plastic ones but they are way overpriced for what they are. It's the corvette tax I guess. But if I was buying today I would probably go with the aluminum ones. They look nice and I've seen a few posts where members seemed to like them.
Yes, I know the jack point locations; however, I just wasn't sure about the jack pucks. Why jack pucks are needed/recommended still seems ambiguous to me.
Ok, so let's say I jack the car up from one of the rear jacking points. Now how do I get the jack stand to go where the jack is?!
I've seen a few posts in various threads that say to jack the car up from the middle of the frame rail, in between the jack points. Then, I could easily slip the jack stands under the dedicated jack points. Good method?
You can just pick up four hockey pucks and make your own jacking pucks for cheap. They aren't needed as on as you look where you put the jack pad. Loosen the lugs, jack the car up one side at a time is easier that way you don't have to mess with too many jack stands, or if you have a low pro jack you can just jack the rear up all at once. Next take wheels off and put them back on the way they came off. Tighten the lugs on the wheels in a star pattern best you can in the air and then let the car down and torque to spec. Also doesn't hurt to take it for a spin then come back and recheck the torque on the lugs.
Good that you want to get your hands dirty... always some satisfaction from THAT!
From watching my local shop... if they don't put it up on a hydraulic lift, they do one thing that I found interesting when they use four (4) floor jacks to raise my Vert up high enough to take the wheels off (and put back on). They use "pucks" and before they start jacking up the car, they pop the hood... the doors... and the truck lid... which they do to ensure that the body doesn't flex enough to cause panels to touch.
Good that you want to get your hands dirty... always some satisfaction from THAT!
From watching my local shop... if they don't put it up on a hydraulic lift, they do one thing that I found interesting when they use four (4) floor jacks to raise my Vert up high enough to take the wheels off (and put back on). They use "pucks" and before they start jacking up the car, they pop the hood... the doors... and the truck lid... which they do to ensure that the body doesn't flex enough to cause panels to touch.
Ooo interesting. Probably less of a concern on a coupe, but something I might do anyway!
Wow to the picture above!
Yes, I know the jack point locations; however, I just wasn't sure about the jack pucks. Why jack pucks are needed/recommended still seems ambiguous to me.
Ok, so let's say I jack the car up from one of the rear jacking points. Now how do I get the jack stand to go where the jack is?!
I've seen a few posts in various threads that say to jack the car up from the middle of the frame rail, in between the jack points. Then, I could easily slip the jack stands under the dedicated jack points. Good method?
There are many youtube videos out there about putting the car up on stands.
I just got a 3 ton low profile floor jack, since my old one wouldn't fit under the car and a set of Vette jack pucks that lock in place so to speak. Depends on where you are jacking it up at. If at the points where the pucks go, then you need make sure the jack won't damage the body frame around those points which is what the pucks are for. Plus if the floor jack is like mine the pucks fit in the middle of the jacking point on the floor jack and makes it more stable and won't slip. You can jack it up using the cross member on the front and then put on stands, or use the side and put the jack stands on safe spots on the cross members. which is what I did when I did my brakes.
Just make sure everything is stable. I saw some nice race ramp type pieces, that you can get under each tire, jacking it up to the point to fit under each to have a good bit of space under the car if you want to do anything major like exhaust and the like.
Here is the one video that I saw them on. Anyone have experience with these? Seems he could have done it a good bit quicker than that. Would be worried about things when the back is being lifted as he talked about at the end.
Good that you want to get your hands dirty... always some satisfaction from THAT!
From watching my local shop... if they don't put it up on a hydraulic lift, they do one thing that I found interesting when they use four (4) floor jacks to raise my Vert up high enough to take the wheels off (and put back on). They use "pucks" and before they start jacking up the car, they pop the hood... the doors... and the truck lid... which they do to ensure that the body doesn't flex enough to cause panels to touch.
Nope, No need to open any doors/hood/trunk. The C5, C6, & C7 Corvettes have a super stiff frame unlike the older cars & will NOT flex from jacking operations
Nope, No need to open any doors/hood/trunk. The C5, C6, & C7 Corvettes have a super stiff frame unlike the older cars & will NOT flex from jacking operations
Yup, was going to add that as well. C5 and newer are super stiff. No flex. My C4 definitely did though.
01-31-2019, 02:41 PM
