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I bought the HF cross beam adapter for my low profile jack, and it's the cat meow. Once you get the first piece of lumber under the front tires, this gives enough room so you can get the LP jack and the cross beam adapter to fit and lift the front of car to any height that you want. You can then put jack stands under the adapter and leave it in place under the car, and go lift the rear with another cross beam adapter, and use jack stands under it.
I only have 1 adapter, so once I get the front lifted to the desired height, I place the jack stands, one on each front contact location of the car , remove the jack/adapter and lift the rear, then put jack stands on each back contact location of the car. I do this in 2 steps so the front and rear are not that much higher from one another until I'm at the final height needed. The adapter can be used under the rear section without having to place any wood under the tires.
Most LP jacks have the metal lifting pad that is removable. The cross beam adapter has a (1.25") hole to fit the round iron stock onto the jack lifting pad position. My jack only had a 1" hole, so I had to replace the 1.25" round stock for the CB adapter to a 1" round iron stock, which luckily, I had in my garage.
I second the advice somewhere above to drive the car and re-torque the lug nuts. I prefer to drive more than around the block first but don't drive for weeks before you re-torque.
You can very easily do two wheels at once. I can swap all four wheels in about 5 minutes at the track. Pop in jacking puck, push jack underneath, lift one side up, zip off lugs on both wheels with impact gun, remove old wheels, new wheels on, zip lugs back on, drop car. Same to other side and then torque all four corners to 100 lb-ft. If you don't have an impact gun then use a cheap 18" breaker bar to break the lugs before jacking.
You don't need expensive tools to accomplish any of this. There are many viable choices, but these work just fine:
If you have any thoughts of getting under the car then get some jack stands as a back-up. Never rely on a hydraulic jack as the only means to support the car if you are underneath.
Here is me at the track and you can see both corners easily in the air and both wheels off.
Nope, No need to open any doors/hood/trunk. The C5, C6, & C7 Corvettes have a super stiff frame unlike the older cars & will NOT flex from jacking operations
No need on the C4 either. I cant vouch for the C3, but i would guess its the same. Likely just some old wives tale tbh.
You can very easily do two wheels at once. I can swap all four wheels in about 5 minutes at the track. Pop in jacking puck, push jack underneath, lift one side up, zip off lugs on both wheels with impact gun, remove old wheels, new wheels on, zip lugs back on, drop car. Same to other side and then torque all four corners to 100 lb-ft. If you don't have an impact gun then use a cheap 18" breaker bar to break the lugs before jacking.
You don't need expensive tools to accomplish any of this. There are many viable choices, but these work just fine:
If you have any thoughts of getting under the car then get some jack stands as a back-up. Never rely on a hydraulic jack as the only means to support the car if you are underneath.
Here is me at the track and you can see both corners easily in the air and both wheels off.
Awesome stuff! I'll be going with these products.
Originally Posted by dmaxx3500
are any of your buddys mechs?
you really need some guidance here
not so you don't wreck the car,but so
you don't kill yourself
either find somebody to teach you or go to a tire shop ,that will let you watch
not that your stupid,but you need help in learning,and if you drop the car on you ,its over
Thanks; I appreciate you looking out! Yes, I will be sure to partner up for this project. My plan is to practice lifting the car just a bit without taking the wheels off to get familiar with the process.
My last question (for now ): Should I somehow protect the new black lug nuts from getting scratched when tightening them down? As for protecting the wheel, I will use tape around the socket.
Last edited by KingCorvette93; 01-31-2019 at 11:14 PM.
I may have missed it but I don't think anybody has addressed the TPMS. If you bought these tires mounted and balanced, you will have to have the new TPMS programmed to you car.
I may have missed it but I don't think anybody has addressed the TPMS. If you bought these tires mounted and balanced, you will have to have the new TPMS programmed to you car.
Yes, the vendor informed me of this. I am assuming I can install the wheels then drive to a shop just fine...
I agree with the others. 40 years ago I working in the shop of an excavation company and I bought some tools off the Snap on truck. I still have them and they still work and look like new.. They will out last me and probably last another generation.
The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten
avoid Harbor Freight tools , we call that place China tool around here. Try going to an estate sale you can get high quality tools second hand for pennies on the dollar and they will last another lifetime
I am going to buy the tools because I want to be able to look under the car once in a while... Even if not to do major work, but just to inspect and know what's going on. Also would like to learn to change the oil!
Where can I buy quality but not exorbitantly expensive automotive tools? Would a regular parts store have them, or Home Depot? I would prefer NOT online for this type of stuff!
No need to buy a torque wrench just get the lugs tight with a socket on a 1/2 drive then drive it to Autozone,O'Reilly's are any parts store and they will loan you one to use at the store.
Thanks; I appreciate you looking out! Yes, I will be sure to partner up for this project. My plan is to practice lifting the car just a bit without taking the wheels off to get familiar with the process.
My last question (for now ): Should I somehow protect the new black lug nuts from getting scratched when tightening them down? As for protecting the wheel, I will use tape around the socket.
The lugs are pretty durable and hold up fine to repeated use without any marring. Mine are on/off multiple times a day and likely hundreds of times a year and they look good as new, and I use an impact gun which is potentially more damaging than a wrench. Some guys do tape the socket though to protect the wheel when you are spinning the lug. Don't over think it too much.
Also, please disregard any naysayers telling you to take the car to a shop for a wheel sweep. Everyone has to start somewhere and I applaud your willingness to learn. As for the TPMS, you also don't need a shop for this.
Buy this tool for a lousy $15.99 shipped, pop in a 9v battery and you can reprogram them yourself in literally 5 minutes. It is a trivial task. Happy to list the very simple instructions to do this if you go this route.
Don't be afraid at all to perform basic service work on your car such as wheel swaps, fluid changes, brake changes, battery changes etc. These are basic tasks that any non-disabled person can do and it is a rewarding experience. There is no reason AT ALL to pay a shop to do this and hope they do it right. There is another thread around here somewhere where a shop forgot to torque the lug nuts on someones car and his wheel literally fell off while driving and wrecked the car. This will NEVER EVER happen to me as the only one who torques my lugs is me (in addition to all work for that matter). There is no special mechanical skills needed to turn a wrench and learn some basic techniques on servicing your own car and being self-reliant.
The lugs are pretty durable and hold up fine to repeated use without any marring. Mine are on/off multiple times a day and likely hundreds of times a year and they look good as new, and I use an impact gun which is potentially more damaging than a wrench. Some guys do tape the socket though to protect the wheel when you are spinning the lug. Don't over think it too much.
Also, please disregard any naysayers telling you to take the car to a shop for a wheel sweep. Everyone has to start somewhere and I applaud your willingness to learn. As for the TPMS, you also don't need a shop for this.
Don't be afraid at all to perform basic service work on your car such as wheel swaps, fluid changes, brake changes, battery changes etc. These are basic tasks that any non-disabled person can do and it is a rewarding experience. There is no reason AT ALL to pay a shop to do this and hope they do it right. There is another thread around here somewhere where a shop forgot to torque the lug nuts on someones car and his wheel literally fell off while driving and wrecked the car. This will NEVER EVER happen to me as the only one who torques my lugs is me (in addition to all work for that matter). There is no special mechanical skills needed to turn a wrench and learn some basic techniques on servicing your own car and being self-reliant.
Yep, I am really looking forward to getting started!!
I have already placed some orders for the tools you recommended earlier!
However, in regards to the breaker bar, I am going to go with Tekton just to have a few tools by the same brand. Can you advise on the difference between these two? All I can determine is that one is 180 degrees pivot, whereas the other is 230. Not really sure what the implications of that are...
Yep, I am really looking forward to getting started!!
I have already placed some orders for the tools you recommended earlier!
However, in regards to the breaker bar, I am going to go with Tekton just to have a few tools by the same brand. Can you advise on the difference between these two? I can't figure it out!
The first one has a head that pivots 180 degrees. The second one has a head that pivots 230 degrees. That is the main difference. You won't be exceeding either of these angles so both work.
One other quick thing to mention. There is an intermediate step when you are removing the wheels that will require (for simplicity sake) the use of another tool (which I'm not sure you have). After you break the lugs with the breaker bar and get the car off the ground, it will make life easier if you use a socket wrench to finish removing the lugs. The breaker bar and torque wrench are not designed for this. So you will need either a 1/2" drive socket wrench like found here:
Note that if you buy a 3/8" or 1/4" socket set that you will need an adapter to use your 1/2" 19mm socket.
So the procedure is:
1) Secure vehicle on level, flat surface
2) Place jacking puck into slot in frame and position jack
3) Break lug nuts with breaker bar
4) Lift car to desired height (wheel a few inches off the ground)
5) Remove lugs with socket wrench (you can also use a drill with an adapter for the socket)
6) Remove wheels
7) Inspect rotors and brake pads while you are there. If you are feeling fancy you can clean the calipers with a little soap and water and a rag
8) Replace wheel and make sure it sits firmly and squarely
9) Tighten lug nuts back on with socket wrench, alternating in star pattern. Ensure wheel went on straight against the hub/rotor. You can check this by alternating a mild push/pull on the top and bottom of the wheel/tire. It shouldn't rock back and forth and the lugs should be snug.
10) Lower vehicle and remove jack from position so you don't trip on it
11) Tighten all lug nuts to 100 lb ft with torque wrench
12) Don't forget to remove jacking puck from underneath
One other quick thing to mention. There is an intermediate step when you are removing the wheels that will require (for simplicity sake) the use of another tool (which I'm not sure you have). After you break the lugs with the breaker bar and get the car off the ground, it will make life easier if you use a socket wrench to finish removing the lugs. The breaker bar and torque wrench are not designed for this. So you will need either a 1/2" drive socket wrench like found here: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Quick-Release-Composite-72-Tooth-1458/dp/B00A50N9VM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549027255&sr=8-3&keywords=1%2F2+drive+socket+wrench
Note that if you buy a 3/8" or 1/4" socket set that you will need an adapter to use your 1/2" 19mm socket.
So the procedure is:
1) Secure vehicle on level, flat surface
2) Place jacking puck into slot in frame and position jack
3) Break lug nuts with breaker bar
4) Lift car to desired height (wheel a few inches off the ground)
5) Remove lugs with socket wrench (you can also use a drill with an adapter for the socket)
6) Remove wheels
7) Inspect rotors and brake pads while you are there. If you are feeling fancy you can clean the calipers with a little soap and water and a rag
8) Replace wheel and make sure it sits firmly and squarely
9) Tighten lug nuts back on with socket wrench, alternating in star pattern. Ensure wheel went on straight against the hub/rotor. You can check this by alternating a mild push/pull on the top and bottom of the wheel/tire. It shouldn't rock back and forth and the lugs should be snug.
10) Lower vehicle and remove jack from position so you don't trip on it
11) Tighten all lug nuts to 100 lb ft with torque wrench
12) Don't forget to remove jacking puck from underneath
Yes I have a good set of basic tools, which includes one of those! Thanks!
Last edited by KingCorvette93; 02-01-2019 at 01:22 PM.
Torque wrench will click and stop turning when it reaches the set torque.
Always store your torque wrench back at zero. (Don't leave it at 100#)
I have a craftsman clicker torque wrench and both of those sentences are incorrect (at least for mine). Once it clicks, it will keep turning if you continue to wrench, the click simply lets you know you've reached the preset value. My instructions say to store the wrench at the 10 ft/lbs setting. Others may vary, but anyone purchasing one of these should read the instructions...
01-31-2019, 07:04 PM
Ain’t that the truth! 
): Should I somehow protect the new black lug nuts from getting scratched when tightening them down? As for protecting the wheel, I will use tape around the socket.
