When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Im cleaning my wife's C6 after being under cover for winter storage. The car is truly in mint condition in terms of the paint, but when I rub my hand over it the front fenders (just past the head lamps), the paint doesnt feel 100% smooth... I clayed the car before going into storage, and I polished it yesterday with Meguiar's M205...but it still isnt 100% smooth...
Do you think I should clay that area again, polish that area again, both or something else?
Im looking for the paint / clear to "feel" perfectly smooth.
As you can see, the car is in very clean condition and has a beautiful shine:
The Plastic Baggie Test: If you put your hand in a sandwich bag (or on top of a piece of cellophane) and lightly glide your hand across the surface, you’ll be able to feel every last imperfection. You’ll feel bumps not visible to the human eye, and these are, in fact, telling you it’s time to clay. The test should take any longer than five minutes and can be done during the clay process to make sure no areas were missed.
If you clayed it first, did you do the baggy test on each section prior to and after the clay? This is the best way to make sure the paint is smooth and ready for polish. Polish will not remove embedded particles. It with remove fine scratches and swirls and bring a shine back to the paint. Did you polish it by hand or machine. Polishing by hand will never give you the results that you get with a machine. You should never proceed from one stage in a detail until you are complete satisfied with the step you just completed.
As for your problem, it could be a few things. One you didn't clay that area enough to get tit smooth, second it could be there is a small amount of the polish still on the surface. Did you wax the car after polishing it?
I spend a lot of time there searching threads for information. Our cars can be difficult because of the hard paint. The key is doing the baggie test and judging the condition of the paint and then picking the right product AND pad with a DA polisher.
I like Meg 105/205 or Menzerna 400/3500 and then I finish with a carnuba was since I don't mind waxing more often.
So I went back over the area with the clay bar and that did the trick - smooth as a baby's behind. I followed up with a M205 polish, then some Meguiars Carnauba Wax. I use a DA Buffer for all polishing and waxing...but clay by hand...
I've never heard of this Nanoskin...which of these should I get? I have a 6" DA Buffer:
Use a clay bar. I have went through the clay towels/mitts/blocks and they cannot do the bar's job. Top everything off with a Ceramic Coating. Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light or Kamikaze.
Use a clay bar. I have went through the clay towels/mitts/blocks and they cannot do the bar's job. Top everything off with a Ceramic Coating. Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light or Kamikaze.
Great answer. In my shop I tried many non-clay products and they were OK, but not great. In some cases did absolutely nothing, but enough of that>
I am with Innovate - Carnuba;s are dead, and ceramics are the only way to go. In my shop, and never used Carnuba;s, I was a Zaino user from day I opened, I was even phasing that out. I could get a bottle of Feynlab Ceramic Lite, which is a very high quality ceramic and gave the customer a whole lot more value, as it was good for a couple of years, longer if it is not a daily driver with just two coats.
Great answer. In my shop I tried many non-clay products and they were OK, but not great. In some cases did absolutely nothing, but enough of that>
I am with Innovate - Carnuba;s are dead, and ceramics are the only way to go. In my shop, and never used Carnuba;s, I was a Zaino user from day I opened, I was even phasing that out. I could get a bottle of Feynlab Ceramic Lite, which is a very high quality ceramic and gave the customer a whole lot more value, as it was good for a couple of years, longer if it is not a daily driver with just two coats.
I am now to the point where my shop basically only does correction/coatings. I started with Optimum Car Wax but Ceramic is the way to go now and into the future. Now I do soley IGL products and maybe something different customer wants it (Consumer Coatings if the customer wants).
I am now to the point where my shop basically only does correction/coatings. I started with Optimum Car Wax but Ceramic is the way to go now and into the future. Now I do soley IGL products and maybe something different customer wants it (Consumer Coatings if the customer wants).
You should take a look at Feynlabs, one of the best ceramic products I have used. The advanced products are a bit more difficult,but the results are superior to anything I have tried and I have tried almost every decent name brand on the planet.
You should take a look at Feynlabs, one of the best ceramic products I have used. The advanced products are a bit more difficult,but the results are superior to anything I have tried and I have tried almost every decent name brand on the planet.
Replied to your PM, already checking them out! I do want to expand my coating options and grow as a business. That is the always the goal!
04-03-2019, 11:15 AM
Polish / Clay - what next?
Great answer. In my shop I tried many non-clay products and they were OK, but not great. In some cases did absolutely nothing, but enough of that>