High milage for a 2006 c6
#2
Drifting
MANY cars on here with over 100K, one '05 owned by by a member has over 250K on it. If the price is right, maintenance is up to date and the car is clean don't let the mileage stop you...good luck with your decision.
#3
Le Mans Master
Price..mileage..condition. ALL are relative, and each has to be considered to determine what kind of deal you are getting. Nothing wrong with high miles if the condition is better than you would expect with the miles, and the price takes mileage into account.
#4
Race Car Tech
As someone who owns a 2006 with just slightly under 100K miles, it is important for you to find out what has been done to the car maintenance wise by the previous owner.
At over 100K , there are things that should of been replaced, checked etc.
1) Harmonic Balancer for excessive wobble
2) Brakes pads should have been replaced at least once. The rotors should be checked for min thickness
3) All fluids including DexCool coolant should have been changed out around the 100K mark or less
4) Sway Bar end links should have been changed out
5) Shocks should have been replaced
6) Rear wheel axle nut torque should be checked (at leat 160 ft-lb) If less replace as per the proper procedure
7) If it has the Z51 package, the rear Zerk fittings should be routinely greased
8) Condition of paint, damage to rocker panels etc. should be checked.
9) The tires should not be more than a 3-4 years old. Tires last on average 20K miles- less if GoodYear RF's
10) Get a GM VIS Report which shows you all the maintenance carried out by a GM dealer, Safety recalls, Options etc. This can be had by any GM service department for free based on the VIn #
Price should be in the ball park that you feel comfortable with.
As a note on my 2006, I had to replace the water pump at 30K miles due to a seal leaking on the pump. The replacement is still going strong. I have replaced brake pads once, Rotors are still within min thickness specs
Shocks were changed to Bilstein Sports
Z51 Zerk grease fittings checked regularly
Rear axle nuts torque are checked once per year
Coolant was changed and new coolant hoses installed using the silicone option hoses.
I check body bolts all over the car each hibernation period to assure they are all tight.
The dealer changed the Differential fluid , auto transmission fluid and filter (no flush)
Regular Oil changes at roughly 4000 miles per interval (minimum once per year)
Keep battery on a tender when the car will not be used for greater than 3 days, and 6 months straight during the winter. Letting a C6
battery get drained pretty much does them in and all kinds of weird electrical alarms ensue.
I'm keeping mine as long as it keeps giving me trouble free miles
Good luck in whatever you decide.
At over 100K , there are things that should of been replaced, checked etc.
1) Harmonic Balancer for excessive wobble
2) Brakes pads should have been replaced at least once. The rotors should be checked for min thickness
3) All fluids including DexCool coolant should have been changed out around the 100K mark or less
4) Sway Bar end links should have been changed out
5) Shocks should have been replaced
6) Rear wheel axle nut torque should be checked (at leat 160 ft-lb) If less replace as per the proper procedure
7) If it has the Z51 package, the rear Zerk fittings should be routinely greased
8) Condition of paint, damage to rocker panels etc. should be checked.
9) The tires should not be more than a 3-4 years old. Tires last on average 20K miles- less if GoodYear RF's
10) Get a GM VIS Report which shows you all the maintenance carried out by a GM dealer, Safety recalls, Options etc. This can be had by any GM service department for free based on the VIn #
Price should be in the ball park that you feel comfortable with.
As a note on my 2006, I had to replace the water pump at 30K miles due to a seal leaking on the pump. The replacement is still going strong. I have replaced brake pads once, Rotors are still within min thickness specs
Shocks were changed to Bilstein Sports
Z51 Zerk grease fittings checked regularly
Rear axle nuts torque are checked once per year
Coolant was changed and new coolant hoses installed using the silicone option hoses.
I check body bolts all over the car each hibernation period to assure they are all tight.
The dealer changed the Differential fluid , auto transmission fluid and filter (no flush)
Regular Oil changes at roughly 4000 miles per interval (minimum once per year)
Keep battery on a tender when the car will not be used for greater than 3 days, and 6 months straight during the winter. Letting a C6
battery get drained pretty much does them in and all kinds of weird electrical alarms ensue.
I'm keeping mine as long as it keeps giving me trouble free miles
Good luck in whatever you decide.
Last edited by 4SUMERZ; 04-28-2019 at 07:25 PM.
#5
Race Director
IMO, if you can o ly afford a 100k mile C6, you cant afford a c6. Thst said, the cars are robust, and totally capable of going well past 100k miles.
#6
Safety Car
#7
Race Director
If your budget allows for a nicer car, but a 100k car shows up, nothing wrong with them.
#8
Seems to cost about the same to operate as any other car to me. They've got things that break on them, but nothing major that will break the bank. They've got good longevity. Probably due to the low rpms they turn at cruise.
Last edited by Oic0; 04-28-2019 at 08:44 PM.
#9
The kind of mileage can be yuge.
Mine's got 135K. Balancer barely wobbles. Just did brakes/rotors last month. Oil changes every 10K (about 8 months). Plugs and wires done at 100K. Prolly due again for gear and radiator fluids.
Tires are a little pricey, but not terrible. Got 50+K out of my Michelin A/S's. PFADT street alignment.
Guesstimate 80% highway.
Mine's got 135K. Balancer barely wobbles. Just did brakes/rotors last month. Oil changes every 10K (about 8 months). Plugs and wires done at 100K. Prolly due again for gear and radiator fluids.
Tires are a little pricey, but not terrible. Got 50+K out of my Michelin A/S's. PFADT street alignment.
Guesstimate 80% highway.
Last edited by BackInBlack05; 04-28-2019 at 09:07 PM.
The following users liked this post:
jimijam (04-28-2019)
#11
Safety Car
Member Since: Dec 2006
Location: Pearland / Houston Tx
Posts: 3,752
Likes: 0
Received 1,110 Likes
on
691 Posts
I would think the issue would be more that the car is almost 14 years old....not the 100k ... or less than 8k/year.
It's how it has been treated more than the number of miles it has rolled down the road.
It's how it has been treated more than the number of miles it has rolled down the road.
#12
Melting Slicks
My '06 has just under 100k and is still going strong, looking to get at least another100k out of it. Other then routine maintenance/servicing, it has been virtually maintenance/repair free; the only issue/repair was the shifter cable at just over 80k. Still looks great as well, these pictures were taken just a few months back ..
Last edited by Welker1; 04-29-2019 at 02:24 AM.
#13
Race Director
2008 c6 z51 m6 with 132k miles..
this vehicle is unbelievably reliable.
buy with confidence.
this corvette is so reliable and drives like its new.
Id suggest its worth all of 15 grand if I were to sell it but it looks and drives like new.
i keep going back and forth on the new c8 z51 only because selling off this present c6 z51 m6 for 15 grand is ridiculous...
but thats the value...
im still debating back and forth.....and really only because this c6 is so reliable and such a great sports car ownership experience,
good luck deciding...
The following users liked this post:
72greg (10-28-2019)
#14
Team Owner
Member Since: Aug 2006
Posts: 22,966
Received 2,882 Likes
on
1,905 Posts
C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Milage is not the question....maintenance and how it was driven is. I have seen cars with way less milage than that, that I would never consider. I also own a 215,000 mile 07 that I would drive anywhere I wanted to go.
Like all used cars condition varies wildly independent of milage. Find a well taken care of C6 and the milage would not bother me.
This was taken around 205,000 miles.
Not the best pic but ok for under garage lights.
Like all used cars condition varies wildly independent of milage. Find a well taken care of C6 and the milage would not bother me.
This was taken around 205,000 miles.
Not the best pic but ok for under garage lights.
The following 2 users liked this post by wayback:
72greg (10-28-2019),
JerriVette (04-29-2019)
#15
Race Director
215k looks awesome...much props.
#16
Pro
Kind of a silly claim. Last year I bought what was likely the cheapest GS convt. in the country at the time w/85k miles on it. I knew from the get go my intentions with the car was to begin a project and it made little sense to spend an extra 15k on a car simply because it had low miles. That would have been a waste of 15k. I also planned to drive the snot out of it and paying a premium for the perceived low miles benefit makes little sense unless you do not plan to drive it. If that's the case invest in stocks, not a mass produced car.
#17
Race Director
Kind of a silly claim. Last year I bought what was likely the cheapest GS convt. in the country at the time w/85k miles on it. I knew from the get go my intentions with the car was to begin a project and it made little sense to spend an extra 15k on a car simply because it had low miles. That would have been a waste of 15k. I also planned to drive the snot out of it and paying a premium for the perceived low miles benefit makes little sense unless you do not plan to drive it. If that's the case invest in stocks, not a mass produced car.
Just my opinion.
#18
Le Mans Master
I ask because, in 2015, I was looking for a cool, fun car that I could enjoy, and which would be driven maybe 5k miles a year. I wanted to stay around $18K. Though a C6 was not the only choice, it was by far the coolest in the pool. I bought a 2008 with 98K miles, drove it for a trouble-free year, sold it for what I paid, and moved to a 2012, which I am even happier with.
Seems to me the group of unique, fun, and fast cars that can be had for under $20K is pretty small. What other cars that have very good or better reliability are there to choose from, in your opinion?
Jim
#19
Race Director
Fauee, though you and I often do not agree, I always respect your opinion because it never comes from ignorance. Let me ask you what other choices a person could consider,given the following: Most folks buy a Vette more for personal enjoyment, performance, sometimes image, but not for transportation. So, based on that motivation, and a budget of $15k, maybe up to $17K, what other car would you recommend that will bring the level of enjoyment?
I ask because, in 2015, I was looking for a cool, fun car that I could enjoy, and which would be driven maybe 5k miles a year. I wanted to stay around $18K. Though a C6 was not the only choice, it was by far the coolest in the pool. I bought a 2008 with 98K miles, drove it for a trouble-free year, sold it for what I paid, and moved to a 2012, which I am even happier with.
Seems to me the group of unique, fun, and fast cars that can be had for under $20K is pretty small. What other cars that have very good or better reliability are there to choose from, in your opinion?
Jim
I ask because, in 2015, I was looking for a cool, fun car that I could enjoy, and which would be driven maybe 5k miles a year. I wanted to stay around $18K. Though a C6 was not the only choice, it was by far the coolest in the pool. I bought a 2008 with 98K miles, drove it for a trouble-free year, sold it for what I paid, and moved to a 2012, which I am even happier with.
Seems to me the group of unique, fun, and fast cars that can be had for under $20K is pretty small. What other cars that have very good or better reliability are there to choose from, in your opinion?
Jim
My issue is more related to blowing your total budget in general. I had/have friends that have done this, then been stranded because they ran into an issue and didnt have the money to fix it.
In your example, only spending 15 out 17k is probably ok. Especially if you're mature enough to not make your car budget ALL of your money.
That said, I dont think there is any shame in buying a 12k c5 or even c4, and having 3k or more in cash for things that come up. When you start comparing the amount of car you get from a vette compared to say a mustang gt or 350z or similar vehicles, despite those being great cars in their own right, their price being nearly what a vette goes for makes you question how the heck that's possible.
Sometimes I think I'm out of touch, because I see a 3k difference between a z and a c5 and wonder why you wouldnt just pay the 3k to save on insurance alone. Maybe to some out there, coming up with the extra 3k is a non starter, and theyd rather pay the 100+ a month more in insurance than a loan or something.
Anyways, the general point behind my post was to not put all your eggs in one basket. If that basket breaks, you might not have any eggs for breakfast.
#20
Le Mans Master
Makes sense, and I am glad you mentioned the 'stang and Z...both of which are solid cars, reliable, have a decent image.
I think your concern about breakage is particularly appropriate to those who will have only that single car, and who must have reliable transportation. Not spending all your money on the purchase would make sense, whether buying a used Vette, or used Camry.
Thanks for the explanation.
I think your concern about breakage is particularly appropriate to those who will have only that single car, and who must have reliable transportation. Not spending all your money on the purchase would make sense, whether buying a used Vette, or used Camry.
Thanks for the explanation.