C6 removable hard top noise
#1
Cruising
Thread Starter
C6 removable hard top noise
Hello everyone I just purchased a 2007 C6 with a removable hardtop and I’ve noticed that when I have the hardtop on it does a lot of squeaking even when you’re barely moving does anybody have an idea on how to remedy the situation and stop it from squeaking ?
#5
#9
Instructor
I finally bought two 5/32" e-clips and installed them on the front two rollers and it fixed the popping. Nothing else worked for me. Going on a year with no more issues and blissful quiet.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-repair-3.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-repair-3.html
#10
Team Owner
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jakmarlin (05-30-2019)
#11
Melting Slicks
That video is good but I had better results by putting some heat shrink tubing on the rear locating pins.
#12
Safety Car
You can do the e-clips, o-rings, heat shrink, and lube, but if you drive your car frequently and remove and replace your roof, even occasionally, the noise will always come back at some point.
That has been my experience over the last 12 years and 150k miles in Houston. When the noise returns, I add a little lube to the contact areas. I find it very annoying however as it is very easy to accidentally put your hand in the stuff while removing/replacing the roof. I will experiment with dry lube this summer.
That has been my experience over the last 12 years and 150k miles in Houston. When the noise returns, I add a little lube to the contact areas. I find it very annoying however as it is very easy to accidentally put your hand in the stuff while removing/replacing the roof. I will experiment with dry lube this summer.
#13
Burning Brakes
I was reading some other posts about tightening and adjusting the mounting brackets. The front don't seem to have much of an adjustment. I guess you just loosen the two hex nuts and push the bracket as far as you can, which isn't must play either way and tighten them back?
The back seems to have a mechanism to make it tighter by screwing in the hook piece, is that all you do on the back? My top was pretty quiet, but I drive through the base a good bit and those concrete seems every 20 feet or so definitely caused things to become a bit "poppy". Not too bad.
When people talk about the heat shrink stuff, are they simply talking about the tubing you would put on an intake and heat shrink it? Or is there a specific size/type for the rear guide mounts? Gotta get me some of the Lube as the rubber definitely looks like it needs a bit of TLC.
The back seems to have a mechanism to make it tighter by screwing in the hook piece, is that all you do on the back? My top was pretty quiet, but I drive through the base a good bit and those concrete seems every 20 feet or so definitely caused things to become a bit "poppy". Not too bad.
When people talk about the heat shrink stuff, are they simply talking about the tubing you would put on an intake and heat shrink it? Or is there a specific size/type for the rear guide mounts? Gotta get me some of the Lube as the rubber definitely looks like it needs a bit of TLC.
Last edited by SPSandman; 05-30-2019 at 12:53 PM.
#14
Melting Slicks
When people talk about the heat shrink stuff, are they simply talking about the tubing you would put on an intake and heat shrink it? Or is there a specific size/type for the rear guide mounts? Gotta get me some of the Lube as the rubber definitely looks like it needs a bit of TLC.
#16
Drifting
The noise comes from the rollers in the front latches. GM finally figured this out shortly before the C6 went out of production, so late-model C6s (2012+?) have redesigned, rollerless latches. If you really want the noise gone, replace your top with one from a newer car. As soon as I replaced my 2007 top with a 2013 top, the noise went away forever. If that's not an option for you, use the e-clips mentioned above. They will at least lock the rollers in place (mostly) and keep them quieter.
#17
Melting Slicks
I've got a 2013 and they can still make noise although I think it's been nearly a year since I did the heat shrink on the rear pins and it's still good.
#18
Had the same problem. I winter in AZ and travel to shows with my Lingenfelter C-6. Older Gent that I was talking to about Lingenfelter asked if I was having problems with noisy roof panel. Of course I was and had tried everything under the sun to correct it. Here's the secret to end you problem. This gentleman was a retired aeronautical engineer who worked for Bombardier and was a key person in getting their Jet program off the ground. Go to your local hardware store a buy 3 or 4
5/32 e-clips. Remove your panel and laying on bench or standing it on on edge on soft pillow. look at the two latches on front of your panel. Insert the e-clips on the side of the roller closest to your center column. A little dielectric grease and your done. Clean your stripping good around the top,place it back on you car and you should be good. Total cost of 2 e-clips is around 86 cents. I bought 4 and carry two extras with the car. Put these on in 2008 and never have had a squeak since.Your Welcome!
5/32 e-clips. Remove your panel and laying on bench or standing it on on edge on soft pillow. look at the two latches on front of your panel. Insert the e-clips on the side of the roller closest to your center column. A little dielectric grease and your done. Clean your stripping good around the top,place it back on you car and you should be good. Total cost of 2 e-clips is around 86 cents. I bought 4 and carry two extras with the car. Put these on in 2008 and never have had a squeak since.Your Welcome!
#19
Melting Slicks
Newer latches don't have rollers.