No access to cars Electric system
06-23-2019, 04:54 PM
#1
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No access to cars Electric system
I have a 2005 c6. I was going down the turnpike and realized my car started saying no key fob detected and the gauges all went like you turned the key off. The odometer and tac worked and it started reading low fuel and low fuel pressure, tires inflation etc..... I went ahead and drove the car on home. The accessory ports still worked but windows and gauges didnt. Couldnt open door with button. Killed car then nothing worked. I disconnected battery and tried to reset but no help. Put key fob in glove compartment slot with no luck. The dash stays blank no matter what I do. Interior lights and head lights plus acc plugs for charging work. No other electrical. Window on driver side rolled down 1/2 way. The only other thing was the lock out was showing on left side of dash and system was saying service traction control. Car is paper weight. Now. I checked voltage on fob batteries and installed new batteries anyway. No help. Put new battery in car. No help. Any suggestions would shure be appreciated. Have car at home and cant move it. Thank you very much.
06-24-2019, 10:44 AM
#2
Race Director
New battery didn't do the trick?
Check codes(s)?
Get it in air high enough to check connections to starter, jack or lift, preferably lift.
Closely inspect starter connections @ solenoid.
Give 'em a firm tug w/ pliers, if not disconnecting battery be careful not to short neg.
Heat & age causes solenoid's bakelite housing terminals/lugs to crack/break. Seems more problematic for C6s in sunbelt states.
Can cause all manner of havok including no power, a'tall.
Search topic, been many good threads detailing problem, many w/ pics.
Not starter/solenoid connections?
Bad ground's my next guess, finding/checking them challenging.
Ground pts for C6 are probably available via WWW.
BTTT
Check codes(s)?
Get it in air high enough to check connections to starter, jack or lift, preferably lift.
Closely inspect starter connections @ solenoid.
Give 'em a firm tug w/ pliers, if not disconnecting battery be careful not to short neg.
Heat & age causes solenoid's bakelite housing terminals/lugs to crack/break. Seems more problematic for C6s in sunbelt states.
Can cause all manner of havok including no power, a'tall.
Search topic, been many good threads detailing problem, many w/ pics.
Not starter/solenoid connections?
Bad ground's my next guess, finding/checking them challenging.
Ground pts for C6 are probably available via WWW.
BTTT
06-24-2019, 02:33 PM
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Checked starter Solenoid
I appreciate your help. I checked the starter solenoid for damage and loose wires before I just failed to mention it. I took the dash out and got the key fob reciever out. The car now says no FoB detected. If I put it in the slot that would be in the glove box or lie it right again the antenna looking out on the box still no key. I can hit acc button and I here all 4bofvthe diodes in the box click. If I turn the key 5 times in the trunk with the lid up I can hear the diodes working in the box but the screen never says anything but no fobs detected. I have new Batteries in both fobs. They are placed correctly. Both fobs worked correctly before. I will say before all of this started the mirrors would automatically start adjusting them selves into crazy positions going down the road. Sometimes the anti lock brakes would start locking the brakes down when you made a slow sharp left hand turn. You would have to reset the battery. I dont know if one thing has anything to do with the other but that all I know to inform you. I appreciate the help and anymore help would be appreciated guys.
06-24-2019, 05:10 PM
#4
Race Director
Might be ECM. 
Take a competent tech to confirm ECM's bad, before throwing parts at this.
Checked for codes?
Routinely have a passenger?
If you do it's *possible* problem's from one/all the large blue connectors in fuse pit under pass feet.
Cheap panel material GM used flexes, sometimes a lot depending on weight of passenger.
Weight depressing downward come into contact w/ connector(s), can cause connectors to come ever-so-loose, again causing weird behaviors defying TS'g manual.
Remove panel, 3 bright blue connectors are easily visible, carefully check connectors are securely seated.
Members have unlocked connectors & opened 'em up to check pins etc.
Before resecuring connectors dab some dielectric grease on pins insuring best possible contact.
Try that, report back.
BTTT
Take a competent tech to confirm ECM's bad, before throwing parts at this.
Checked for codes?
Routinely have a passenger?
If you do it's *possible* problem's from one/all the large blue connectors in fuse pit under pass feet.
Cheap panel material GM used flexes, sometimes a lot depending on weight of passenger.
Weight depressing downward come into contact w/ connector(s), can cause connectors to come ever-so-loose, again causing weird behaviors defying TS'g manual.
Remove panel, 3 bright blue connectors are easily visible, carefully check connectors are securely seated.
Members have unlocked connectors & opened 'em up to check pins etc.
Before resecuring connectors dab some dielectric grease on pins insuring best possible contact.
Try that, report back.
BTTT
08-09-2019, 02:23 AM
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Plug ins checked
I had checked the plugs under passenger feet but went back and put grease on them and reconnected. No change. I've had the car to 4 different mechanics now and the last was a top shop in a pretty large town. They have the tec 2 and said they didnt have a clue take it to the dealership. Who can afford for them to just start replacing then an extravagant bill when I believe someone has had this problem before and a reasonable price can fix the car. I dont mind paying I just cant afford to be bent over by a dealership. Sounds like I may have no choice. Any more suggestions would sure be appreciated. Thanks for the help so far.
08-09-2019, 09:50 AM
#6
I have a 2005 c6. I was going down the turnpike and realized my car started saying no key fob detected and the gauges all went like you turned the key off. The odometer and tac worked and it started reading low fuel and low fuel pressure, tires inflation etc..... I went ahead and drove the car on home. The accessory ports still worked but windows and gauges didnt. Couldnt open door with button. Killed car then nothing worked. I disconnected battery and tried to reset but no help. Put key fob in glove compartment slot with no luck. The dash stays blank no matter what I do. Interior lights and head lights plus acc plugs for charging work. No other electrical. Window on driver side rolled down 1/2 way. The only other thing was the lock out was showing on left side of dash and system was saying service traction control. Car is paper weight. Now. I checked voltage on fob batteries and installed new batteries anyway. No help. Put new battery in car. No help. Any suggestions would shure be appreciated. Have car at home and cant move it. Thank you very much.Visit Autoguysland to review why traction control or ABS lights stay on that you may concern.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-detected.html
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Landru (08-09-2019)
08-09-2019, 10:28 AM
#7
Race Director
OP, if trying to troubleshoot this yourself?
An OBDII reader is necessary to accurately isolate problem.
Link has some valuable info, read it carefully because it could be one of two things.
Whether a RCDLR module or BCM, in the right hands a reader can tell.
An OBDII reader is necessary to accurately isolate problem.
Link has some valuable info, read it carefully because it could be one of two things.
Whether a RCDLR module or BCM, in the right hands a reader can tell.
08-09-2019, 11:56 AM
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Tech II plugged up
The reader said it was getting no reply from 18 of the computers on the car. The tec said he had never seen that before and I should take it to the dealer. Where is the BCM and where do I buy one? I cant decide whether to buy the RCDLR and hope for the best or the BCM which is even scarier. I have no response from the car except key fob not detected when I turn the key 5 times in the trunk. I've searched all the connections I can find and greased and reconnected. I would of thought the RCDLR or the BCM would of told the tec II if it was bad. Thanks again for all the information and help but I'm still drawing a blank.
