Even The Chevy Dealership Couldnt Help
07-06-2019, 11:25 PM
#1
Even The Chevy Dealership Couldnt Help
I recently had my 2005 Chevy corvette in the shop due to a multitude of codes that came up on my dash; check engine, service engine, traction control, low fuel, inoperative suspension, along with anything else that could light up. They were able to clear codes, but in a few days...they came back. I have been having this problem for a few months...I have disconnected the battery, being told that this would reset the computer. I was even told to disconnect the battery and while disconnected touch the positive and negative cables....Okay...Didn't Work !!! I have 53k miles on my vehicle. I don't want to get rid of it, but its frustrating to have taken it to the chevy dealership and they can't figure it out. Tadge, I hope you can HELP me in diagnosing the problem....
Last edited by Michael Jones; 01-19-2021 at 11:30 PM.
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07-07-2019, 01:08 AM
Biggest problem with the C6's is electrical gremlins. Being that when GM was connecting connectors, they did not use a spot of either dielectric grease on the connectors, or even a shot of silicone to help ward off corrosion on the connector pins.
So when faced with a ***** show of codes that are not making scene, I take about a hour to pull every main connector on the car modules, clean them both sides, then give them a touch of delectric grease as I reconnecting the connectors.
So low down with the good battery disconnected, I start by pulling the passenger side rear tire fender well so I can get to the ECM connectors to give them a quick cleaning. If the 05 has an automatic trans, then the TCM is right behind the ECM, and will pull and clean them as well. Up line behind the battery on the fender wall, C186 connector and smaller connector, so they get pulled and cleaned as well. From there since I under the hood, pull the upper fuse box to give it a good cleaning, as well the lower engine fuse blocks as well. From here, other side of the motor and the EBCM is pulled and cleaned. Next on the list, BCM connectors.
Now at this point with at least these clean, will put a tech II on the car to look for codes, which may be a connector down line of the BCM that its connector needs to be pulled and cleaned next. Also, will go through each module data to check for voltage, and anything under say 13.8 volts (what the BCM should be showing) will go that module connector to not only clean the connector, but check the ground point for that connector as well.
As for charging system, really easy to tell if it has a problem.
Start the car, turn the light off, turn the A/C off, and break out the multimeter set to DC.
Alternator body as the ground for the probe, terminal on the back of the alternator under the rubber boot as the positive source for the meter, should have 14.7 volts.
Now check the terminals at the battery and should have 14.5 volts. Next pop open the engine fuse box cover, and from it terminal as the positive source, and first the battery negitive terminal then body of the alternator as the negitive source, should have 14.5 volts.
Last check is to set the DIC to voltage, and should have 14.3 volts.
Note, DIC is telling you the voltage to the ECM, and not the dash!
If alternator is at 14.7, but battery is much lower, problem is the alternator and battery wire where they join at the starter solenoid (nut is loose). If you get different reading between the battery negitie termal and the alternator as the ground source, then ground that is bolted to the end block just above the start is loose or has corrosion problems.
Now if we have 14.5 at the charging system, but much lower at the DIC, then this is screaming engine fuse block problems, BCM connector problems, or ECM connector problems. Hence voltage goes from the Engine fuse box, to the BCM, and then down line to the ECM. So back to square one, being the reason that the Engine fuse box assembly is cleaned, the BCM connector cleaned, and the ECM connectors cleaned to begin with. So If BCM is 13.8 volts on the tech II, but the ecm voltage is only in the 12's, since I have cleaned the ECM connectors, then know that the problem is the ECM ground wire connection point.
Also, don't forget to clean the C186 and connector next to it on the fender walls. These are the connector used to assembly the car quickly, and have a great deal going through them.
3 and 4.
Also, your location would help, since if your near me, could get you right as rain in a few hours.
So when faced with a ***** show of codes that are not making scene, I take about a hour to pull every main connector on the car modules, clean them both sides, then give them a touch of delectric grease as I reconnecting the connectors.
So low down with the good battery disconnected, I start by pulling the passenger side rear tire fender well so I can get to the ECM connectors to give them a quick cleaning. If the 05 has an automatic trans, then the TCM is right behind the ECM, and will pull and clean them as well. Up line behind the battery on the fender wall, C186 connector and smaller connector, so they get pulled and cleaned as well. From there since I under the hood, pull the upper fuse box to give it a good cleaning, as well the lower engine fuse blocks as well. From here, other side of the motor and the EBCM is pulled and cleaned. Next on the list, BCM connectors.
Now at this point with at least these clean, will put a tech II on the car to look for codes, which may be a connector down line of the BCM that its connector needs to be pulled and cleaned next. Also, will go through each module data to check for voltage, and anything under say 13.8 volts (what the BCM should be showing) will go that module connector to not only clean the connector, but check the ground point for that connector as well.
As for charging system, really easy to tell if it has a problem.
Start the car, turn the light off, turn the A/C off, and break out the multimeter set to DC.
Alternator body as the ground for the probe, terminal on the back of the alternator under the rubber boot as the positive source for the meter, should have 14.7 volts.
Now check the terminals at the battery and should have 14.5 volts. Next pop open the engine fuse box cover, and from it terminal as the positive source, and first the battery negitive terminal then body of the alternator as the negitive source, should have 14.5 volts.
Last check is to set the DIC to voltage, and should have 14.3 volts.
Note, DIC is telling you the voltage to the ECM, and not the dash!
If alternator is at 14.7, but battery is much lower, problem is the alternator and battery wire where they join at the starter solenoid (nut is loose). If you get different reading between the battery negitie termal and the alternator as the ground source, then ground that is bolted to the end block just above the start is loose or has corrosion problems.
Now if we have 14.5 at the charging system, but much lower at the DIC, then this is screaming engine fuse block problems, BCM connector problems, or ECM connector problems. Hence voltage goes from the Engine fuse box, to the BCM, and then down line to the ECM. So back to square one, being the reason that the Engine fuse box assembly is cleaned, the BCM connector cleaned, and the ECM connectors cleaned to begin with. So If BCM is 13.8 volts on the tech II, but the ecm voltage is only in the 12's, since I have cleaned the ECM connectors, then know that the problem is the ECM ground wire connection point.
Also, don't forget to clean the C186 and connector next to it on the fender walls. These are the connector used to assembly the car quickly, and have a great deal going through them.
3 and 4.
Also, your location would help, since if your near me, could get you right as rain in a few hours.
07-07-2019, 12:00 AM
#2
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Sounds like classic symptoms of a dying battery. How old is the battery? Do you drive it regularly? First step, get the battery load-tested.
It's not surprising that a Chevy mechanic doesn't know this.
EDIT: Touch what positive to what negative? The two cable ends together when they're disconnected from the battery?
It's not surprising that a Chevy mechanic doesn't know this.
EDIT: Touch what positive to what negative? The two cable ends together when they're disconnected from the battery?
Last edited by Bruze; 07-07-2019 at 12:03 AM.
07-07-2019, 12:01 AM
#3
Race Director
07-07-2019, 12:08 AM
#4
Team Owner
And after that new car battery is installed, you will need to reset the window indexing:
With the engine running and the window down, close the car door. Raise the window and hold the up switch an extra 3 seconds. Release. Without lowering the window, hold the up switch again for 3 seconds. Release. Done. Don't forget the other window.
This will need to be done to both windows every time the car battery is disconnected, then reconnected, or when a new battery is installed in the car.
This will need to be done to both windows every time the car battery is disconnected, then reconnected, or when a new battery is installed in the car.
07-07-2019, 12:21 AM
#6
Team Owner
if the battery is the culprit you need to have it fully charged and not with a trickle charger, most auto parts places will do it for you FREE and test the battery out of the car. If it is bad at all just replace it as charging a bad one will just delay the inevitable.
oh, knowing where you are located is always helpful too.
oh, knowing where you are located is always helpful too.
07-07-2019, 12:28 AM
#7
Just replace the battery.
Load testing means nothing, in my experience.
And I also don't believe the Corvette Whisperer, he is about as reliable as the Tooth Fairy. Some of us got a nickel, some, a quarter, some nothing at all.
Load testing means nothing, in my experience.
And I also don't believe the Corvette Whisperer, he is about as reliable as the Tooth Fairy. Some of us got a nickel, some, a quarter, some nothing at all.
07-07-2019, 01:08 AM
#8
Biggest problem with the C6's is electrical gremlins. Being that when GM was connecting connectors, they did not use a spot of either dielectric grease on the connectors, or even a shot of silicone to help ward off corrosion on the connector pins.
So when faced with a ***** show of codes that are not making scene, I take about a hour to pull every main connector on the car modules, clean them both sides, then give them a touch of delectric grease as I reconnecting the connectors.
So low down with the good battery disconnected, I start by pulling the passenger side rear tire fender well so I can get to the ECM connectors to give them a quick cleaning. If the 05 has an automatic trans, then the TCM is right behind the ECM, and will pull and clean them as well. Up line behind the battery on the fender wall, C186 connector and smaller connector, so they get pulled and cleaned as well. From there since I under the hood, pull the upper fuse box to give it a good cleaning, as well the lower engine fuse blocks as well. From here, other side of the motor and the EBCM is pulled and cleaned. Next on the list, BCM connectors.
Now at this point with at least these clean, will put a tech II on the car to look for codes, which may be a connector down line of the BCM that its connector needs to be pulled and cleaned next. Also, will go through each module data to check for voltage, and anything under say 13.8 volts (what the BCM should be showing) will go that module connector to not only clean the connector, but check the ground point for that connector as well.
As for charging system, really easy to tell if it has a problem.
Start the car, turn the light off, turn the A/C off, and break out the multimeter set to DC.
Alternator body as the ground for the probe, terminal on the back of the alternator under the rubber boot as the positive source for the meter, should have 14.7 volts.
Now check the terminals at the battery and should have 14.5 volts. Next pop open the engine fuse box cover, and from it terminal as the positive source, and first the battery negitive terminal then body of the alternator as the negitive source, should have 14.5 volts.
Last check is to set the DIC to voltage, and should have 14.3 volts.
Note, DIC is telling you the voltage to the ECM, and not the dash!
If alternator is at 14.7, but battery is much lower, problem is the alternator and battery wire where they join at the starter solenoid (nut is loose). If you get different reading between the battery negitie termal and the alternator as the ground source, then ground that is bolted to the end block just above the start is loose or has corrosion problems.
Now if we have 14.5 at the charging system, but much lower at the DIC, then this is screaming engine fuse block problems, BCM connector problems, or ECM connector problems. Hence voltage goes from the Engine fuse box, to the BCM, and then down line to the ECM. So back to square one, being the reason that the Engine fuse box assembly is cleaned, the BCM connector cleaned, and the ECM connectors cleaned to begin with. So If BCM is 13.8 volts on the tech II, but the ecm voltage is only in the 12's, since I have cleaned the ECM connectors, then know that the problem is the ECM ground wire connection point.
Also, don't forget to clean the C186 and connector next to it on the fender walls. These are the connector used to assembly the car quickly, and have a great deal going through them.
3 and 4.
Also, your location would help, since if your near me, could get you right as rain in a few hours.
So when faced with a ***** show of codes that are not making scene, I take about a hour to pull every main connector on the car modules, clean them both sides, then give them a touch of delectric grease as I reconnecting the connectors.
So low down with the good battery disconnected, I start by pulling the passenger side rear tire fender well so I can get to the ECM connectors to give them a quick cleaning. If the 05 has an automatic trans, then the TCM is right behind the ECM, and will pull and clean them as well. Up line behind the battery on the fender wall, C186 connector and smaller connector, so they get pulled and cleaned as well. From there since I under the hood, pull the upper fuse box to give it a good cleaning, as well the lower engine fuse blocks as well. From here, other side of the motor and the EBCM is pulled and cleaned. Next on the list, BCM connectors.
Now at this point with at least these clean, will put a tech II on the car to look for codes, which may be a connector down line of the BCM that its connector needs to be pulled and cleaned next. Also, will go through each module data to check for voltage, and anything under say 13.8 volts (what the BCM should be showing) will go that module connector to not only clean the connector, but check the ground point for that connector as well.
As for charging system, really easy to tell if it has a problem.
Start the car, turn the light off, turn the A/C off, and break out the multimeter set to DC.
Alternator body as the ground for the probe, terminal on the back of the alternator under the rubber boot as the positive source for the meter, should have 14.7 volts.
Now check the terminals at the battery and should have 14.5 volts. Next pop open the engine fuse box cover, and from it terminal as the positive source, and first the battery negitive terminal then body of the alternator as the negitive source, should have 14.5 volts.
Last check is to set the DIC to voltage, and should have 14.3 volts.
Note, DIC is telling you the voltage to the ECM, and not the dash!
If alternator is at 14.7, but battery is much lower, problem is the alternator and battery wire where they join at the starter solenoid (nut is loose). If you get different reading between the battery negitie termal and the alternator as the ground source, then ground that is bolted to the end block just above the start is loose or has corrosion problems.
Now if we have 14.5 at the charging system, but much lower at the DIC, then this is screaming engine fuse block problems, BCM connector problems, or ECM connector problems. Hence voltage goes from the Engine fuse box, to the BCM, and then down line to the ECM. So back to square one, being the reason that the Engine fuse box assembly is cleaned, the BCM connector cleaned, and the ECM connectors cleaned to begin with. So If BCM is 13.8 volts on the tech II, but the ecm voltage is only in the 12's, since I have cleaned the ECM connectors, then know that the problem is the ECM ground wire connection point.
Also, don't forget to clean the C186 and connector next to it on the fender walls. These are the connector used to assembly the car quickly, and have a great deal going through them.
3 and 4.
Also, your location would help, since if your near me, could get you right as rain in a few hours.
Last edited by Dano523; 07-07-2019 at 01:09 AM.
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07-07-2019, 08:11 AM
#9
Biggest problem with the C6's is electrical gremlins. Being that when GM was connecting connectors, they did not use a spot of either dielectric grease on the connectors, or even a shot of silicone to help ward off corrosion on the connector pins.
So when faced with a ***** show of codes that are not making scene, I take about a hour to pull every main connector on the car modules, clean them both sides, then give them a touch of delectric grease as I reconnecting the connectors.
So low down with the good battery disconnected, I start by pulling the passenger side rear tire fender well so I can get to the ECM connectors to give them a quick cleaning. If the 05 has an automatic trans, then the TCM is right behind the ECM, and will pull and clean them as well. Up line behind the battery on the fender wall, C186 connector and smaller connector, so they get pulled and cleaned as well. From there since I under the hood, pull the upper fuse box to give it a good cleaning, as well the lower engine fuse blocks as well. From here, other side of the motor and the EBCM is pulled and cleaned. Next on the list, BCM connectors.
Now at this point with at least these clean, will put a tech II on the car to look for codes, which may be a connector down line of the BCM that its connector needs to be pulled and cleaned next. Also, will go through each module data to check for voltage, and anything under say 13.8 volts (what the BCM should be showing) will go that module connector to not only clean the connector, but check the ground point for that connector as well.
As for charging system, really easy to tell if it has a problem.
Start the car, turn the light off, turn the A/C off, and break out the multimeter set to DC.
Alternator body as the ground for the probe, terminal on the back of the alternator under the rubber boot as the positive source for the meter, should have 14.7 volts.
Now check the terminals at the battery and should have 14.5 volts. Next pop open the engine fuse box cover, and from it terminal as the positive source, and first the battery negitive terminal then body of the alternator as the negitive source, should have 14.5 volts.
Last check is to set the DIC to voltage, and should have 14.3 volts.
Note, DIC is telling you the voltage to the ECM, and not the dash!
If alternator is at 14.7, but battery is much lower, problem is the alternator and battery wire where they join at the starter solenoid (nut is loose). If you get different reading between the battery negitie termal and the alternator as the ground source, then ground that is bolted to the end block just above the start is loose or has corrosion problems.
Now if we have 14.5 at the charging system, but much lower at the DIC, then this is screaming engine fuse block problems, BCM connector problems, or ECM connector problems. Hence voltage goes from the Engine fuse box, to the BCM, and then down line to the ECM. So back to square one, being the reason that the Engine fuse box assembly is cleaned, the BCM connector cleaned, and the ECM connectors cleaned to begin with. So If BCM is 13.8 volts on the tech II, but the ecm voltage is only in the 12's, since I have cleaned the ECM connectors, then know that the problem is the ECM ground wire connection point.
Also, don't forget to clean the C186 and connector next to it on the fender walls. These are the connector used to assembly the car quickly, and have a great deal going through them.
3 and 4.
Also, your location would help, since if your near me, could get you right as rain in a few hours.
So when faced with a ***** show of codes that are not making scene, I take about a hour to pull every main connector on the car modules, clean them both sides, then give them a touch of delectric grease as I reconnecting the connectors.
So low down with the good battery disconnected, I start by pulling the passenger side rear tire fender well so I can get to the ECM connectors to give them a quick cleaning. If the 05 has an automatic trans, then the TCM is right behind the ECM, and will pull and clean them as well. Up line behind the battery on the fender wall, C186 connector and smaller connector, so they get pulled and cleaned as well. From there since I under the hood, pull the upper fuse box to give it a good cleaning, as well the lower engine fuse blocks as well. From here, other side of the motor and the EBCM is pulled and cleaned. Next on the list, BCM connectors.
Now at this point with at least these clean, will put a tech II on the car to look for codes, which may be a connector down line of the BCM that its connector needs to be pulled and cleaned next. Also, will go through each module data to check for voltage, and anything under say 13.8 volts (what the BCM should be showing) will go that module connector to not only clean the connector, but check the ground point for that connector as well.
As for charging system, really easy to tell if it has a problem.
Start the car, turn the light off, turn the A/C off, and break out the multimeter set to DC.
Alternator body as the ground for the probe, terminal on the back of the alternator under the rubber boot as the positive source for the meter, should have 14.7 volts.
Now check the terminals at the battery and should have 14.5 volts. Next pop open the engine fuse box cover, and from it terminal as the positive source, and first the battery negitive terminal then body of the alternator as the negitive source, should have 14.5 volts.
Last check is to set the DIC to voltage, and should have 14.3 volts.
Note, DIC is telling you the voltage to the ECM, and not the dash!
If alternator is at 14.7, but battery is much lower, problem is the alternator and battery wire where they join at the starter solenoid (nut is loose). If you get different reading between the battery negitie termal and the alternator as the ground source, then ground that is bolted to the end block just above the start is loose or has corrosion problems.
Now if we have 14.5 at the charging system, but much lower at the DIC, then this is screaming engine fuse block problems, BCM connector problems, or ECM connector problems. Hence voltage goes from the Engine fuse box, to the BCM, and then down line to the ECM. So back to square one, being the reason that the Engine fuse box assembly is cleaned, the BCM connector cleaned, and the ECM connectors cleaned to begin with. So If BCM is 13.8 volts on the tech II, but the ecm voltage is only in the 12's, since I have cleaned the ECM connectors, then know that the problem is the ECM ground wire connection point.
Also, don't forget to clean the C186 and connector next to it on the fender walls. These are the connector used to assembly the car quickly, and have a great deal going through them.
3 and 4.
Also, your location would help, since if your near me, could get you right as rain in a few hours.
07-07-2019, 10:22 AM
#10
Team Owner
07-07-2019, 10:56 AM
#11
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I have a hydrometer tester I've used for decades and it works well. Even tells you if an individual cell varies from the others. But you can't use them with a sealed battery -- thus the load tester.
Are you saying that in 2019 there is no way to tell what life is left in a sealed battery?
Around here, Jennifer Love Hewitt is the Corvette Whisperer.
She usually stays the weekend and checks the car over thoroughly. Then she whispers in my ear.
07-07-2019, 10:56 AM
#12
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
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My 05, when I was getting weird lights and radio not functioning properly, replaced the battery, and it was two years old, and was tested has good, I new better, and installed a new one and everything returned to normal.
The batteries in these cars do strange things, and they start to fail, it's like a wake up call!
The batteries in these cars do strange things, and they start to fail, it's like a wake up call!
07-07-2019, 11:15 AM
#13
Let me be more specific.
Just because the battery tests in the "good" range, doesn't mean that it is sufficient for a C6. On more than a couple occasions, when one of them has started acting wonky, and I took it in, the battery tested just fine. Replaced the battery, anyway, and lo and behold! The symptoms went away. That tells me the battery wasn't truly up to snuff despite the test results.
07-07-2019, 11:25 AM
#14
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My 05, when I was getting weird lights and radio not functioning properly, replaced the battery, and it was two years old, and was tested has good, I new better, and installed a new one and everything returned to normal.
The batteries in these cars do strange things, and they start to fail, it's like a wake up call!
The batteries in these cars do strange things, and they start to fail, it's like a wake up call!
So, changing the battery was the solution! But, maybe one of the terminals wasn't making full contact on the old battery -- and you don't know if it was that or if indeed the battery was dying.
Before buying a new battery, I would loosen each terminal, twist it back and forth, re-tighten and try -- a five minute job. If they have a lot of visible corrosion, I would clean them up good, wiggle it into place, snug them up and re-try.
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07-07-2019, 02:20 PM
#15
Problem is I have homes in Denver and NYC, but spend most my time on the road traveling/living in company apartments for work instead.
So when I'm close to someone at any time that has a problem, don't mind coming to them to give them a hand.
To add, most of the time I'm in the states for work, but end up abroud a few times out of the year as well.
So until the site comes up with "Gypsy, living out of a suitcase", or "Second star to the right, and straight on until morning" for locations, I'll just leave my location blank instead.
Cheers,
Dano
Last edited by Dano523; 07-07-2019 at 02:20 PM.
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07-07-2019, 04:48 PM
#16
Team Owner
Problem is I have homes in Denver and NYC, but spend most my time on the road traveling/living in company apartments for work instead.
So when I'm close to someone at any time that has a problem, don't mind coming to them to give them a hand.
To add, most of the time I'm in the states for work, but end up abroud a few times out of the year as well.
So until the site comes up with "Gypsy, living out of a suitcase", or "Second star to the right, and straight on until morning" for locations, I'll just leave my location blank instead.
Cheers,
Dano
So when I'm close to someone at any time that has a problem, don't mind coming to them to give them a hand.
To add, most of the time I'm in the states for work, but end up abroud a few times out of the year as well.
So until the site comes up with "Gypsy, living out of a suitcase", or "Second star to the right, and straight on until morning" for locations, I'll just leave my location blank instead.
Cheers,
Dano
07-07-2019, 06:54 PM
#18
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Problem is I have homes in Denver and NYC, but spend most my time on the road traveling/living in company apartments for work instead.
So when I'm close to someone at any time that has a problem, don't mind coming to them to give them a hand.
To add, most of the time I'm in the states for work, but end up abroud a few times out of the year as well.
So until the site comes up with "Gypsy, living out of a suitcase", or "Second star to the right, and straight on until morning" for locations, I'll just leave my location blank instead.
Cheers,
Dano
So when I'm close to someone at any time that has a problem, don't mind coming to them to give them a hand.
To add, most of the time I'm in the states for work, but end up abroud a few times out of the year as well.
So until the site comes up with "Gypsy, living out of a suitcase", or "Second star to the right, and straight on until morning" for locations, I'll just leave my location blank instead.
Cheers,
Dano
If it has anything to do with the CIA, NSA, etc. then I don't want to know.
07-08-2019, 06:59 AM
#19
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2016 Corvette of Year
2015 C6 of Year Finalist
I was recently having electrical issues too and traced it back to the battery cable was bad. It was black inside on the terminal end and the end connected to the starter. I ended up putting a new starter and a new battery cable. I cut off the factory connectors and put some heavy duty connectors on the battery terminal ends, (I have two of the stupid tapered bolts if anyone needs one), no more issues.
01-19-2021, 11:24 PM
#20
I found out the my ecm was not secure inside the right fender well...I disconnected the the connectors and also applied dielectric grease to all. After crossing my fingers and clearing all codes as of this writing ...no codes have come up again and its been over a year....
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