Question on alternator output
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Question on alternator output
Had a P0622 code. Checked the battery and replaced it as it was 4 years old. Found the nut on the starter loose by about 3/4 turn. Tightened that. Everything was great. Idle was about 13.8 volts at idle and up to 14.2-14.5 volts while driving.
Today, while sitting in the parking garage with the AC blasting I put the top up and noticed it dropped down to about 11.5 volts momentarily.
I guess I am now paranoid. I need reliability. Time for a new alternator?
Today, while sitting in the parking garage with the AC blasting I put the top up and noticed it dropped down to about 11.5 volts momentarily.
I guess I am now paranoid. I need reliability. Time for a new alternator?
#2
Instructor
I had the same issue and was seeing a service charging system on my DIC. Changed to a Mechman alternator and the problem disappeared as the alternator puts out a constant 14.5 V all the time.
#4
Burning Brakes
Check voltage on cabled and on battery, is there any voltage drop? that little ramp piece on cable clamp broke on mine. causing this voltage drop because of cable being loose. I only found out later that the ramp piece is available after replacing cable. It could also be corrosion of cable not visible to you.Also check alternator output.
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
All cables are tight. Everything was checked when I replaced the battery and CKS. Everything is super clean and no corrosion present, even on the ground cables.
It seems that when several high demand accessories are used the alternator output drops.
I ordered a new alternator. I enjoy working on the car and I need it to be 100% reliable because my daily work commute is 100 miles and I don't need any hassle regarding a no start issue
It seems that when several high demand accessories are used the alternator output drops.
I ordered a new alternator. I enjoy working on the car and I need it to be 100% reliable because my daily work commute is 100 miles and I don't need any hassle regarding a no start issue
#8
Team Owner
Member Since: Aug 2006
Posts: 22,997
Received 2,887 Likes
on
1,910 Posts
C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
All cables are tight. Everything was checked when I replaced the battery and CKS. Everything is super clean and no corrosion present, even on the ground cables.
It seems that when several high demand accessories are used the alternator output drops.
I ordered a new alternator. I enjoy working on the car and I need it to be 100% reliable because my daily work commute is 100 miles and I don't need any hassle regarding a no start issue
It seems that when several high demand accessories are used the alternator output drops.
I ordered a new alternator. I enjoy working on the car and I need it to be 100% reliable because my daily work commute is 100 miles and I don't need any hassle regarding a no start issue
I agree with changing to a Mecman......I went with the 170 A unit and no more low V situations.
#9
Drifting
Had mine out recently in 90*+ weather with A/C on full plus the radio, at idle it occasionally dropped to 11.9, 11.7, car would shudder a bit at idle but output would come back to 13.2, 13.3 while underway. I ALWAYS keep a Tender on the car when not in use so battery is always fully charged. About a year ago I had the same condition so I pulled the alternator and took it to an electrical repair shop, one of only a few around that still does repairs. He bench tested it and said it was working fine and that these alternators usually last about 75K miles. So I stopped monitoring the DIC for output and solved the problem, if it gets dangerously low I'm sure there'll be plenty of lights and sounds to let me know something is wrong.
#13
Drifting
Your 05 would be 110 amp out of the factory. They moved to a 140 amp oem alternator in later years.
#15
Normal, since the OEM Valeo 160amp alternator only puts out about 16 amps at idle. So when you have the A/C on, it turns the raditor fan on that is drawing about 16amps itself, and the other part so the car drawing amps put the battery into a draw state. As soon as you get going again (rpm increases), then alterntor puts out more amperage and will catch up with the total car needs, and recharge the slightly drained battery.
As for better alternator, it's a 6 phase unit over the 3 phase of the stock alternator, which will put out about 60 amp when the car is idling isntead.
The billet 6 phase alternators can be found here. And again, not what the alternator can put out when fully spun up, but what ampere that the alternator can put out when the RPMS is only 600 instead.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...w-pricing.html
Last edited by Dano523; 07-13-2019 at 04:42 PM.
#17
Melting Slicks
I'm in South Carolina. l have no idea if they do installs as I am rather far away to think about having them do it. Call them and ask. Or better yet, do it yourself. It's not hard, you don't need to lift the car and use any special tools.
#19
Burning Brakes
Even though it is regulated, can you have to much output causing premature battery failure? What is the output of a mechman when it is up to speed?
With the high output is a larger gauge wire required or suggested from the alternator to battery?
With the high output is a larger gauge wire required or suggested from the alternator to battery?
#20
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2014
Location: Below the bottom of Berby Hollow, NYS
Posts: 21,631
Received 1,136 Likes
on
882 Posts
As for the wire, I don't know, but I've not heard anyone mention having to do that.