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Well this is an interesting thread, in addition to all the previous ones about the lens issue. Mine are fine ('07, 36k miles) but it is always indoors unless I'm driving it, which is a big help.
But if they ever get to the point of needing attention I would buy new ones (are OEMs even available?) or replace them with Morimotos. I've lost interest in unnecessary labor.
Plus, being old, my time is valuable cuz there ain't much left.
Well this is an interesting thread, in addition to all the previous ones about the lens issue. Mine are fine ('07, 36k miles) but it is always indoors unless I'm driving it, which is a big help.
But if they ever get to the point of needing attention I would buy new ones (are OEMs even available?) or replace them with Morimotos. I've lost interest in unnecessary labor.
Plus, being old, my time is valuable cuz there ain't much left.
Oem's are not available, and haven't been for some time I am told. My lens is really not that bad but it will have to be addressed sooner or later. I have considered Morimotos, sending out the oem's to replace the lenses or sanding and polishing out my own that way I don't have to remove the headlights which is something I am obviously trying to avoid.
The two choices after sanding are polishing to remove the scratches, OR top coating to fill the scratches. I have personally used the sand and 2K clear method on several other headlights, fog lights, and parking lights from other vehicles (Hondas, Toyotas, and a Cadillac), and it works and lasts. When if it comes time to do the Vette, I will not hesitate to do the same. The 2K clear is nearly bullet proof (just read the MSDS and you'll see why) so there is no more screwing around with temporary polishes or alleged UV protectant that you wipe on and off. Dicking around with repolishing a set of headlights all the time is just stupid. So there's that.
However, this thread IS an absolute train wreck, and I love it. Guy comes in and wants to know if it's possible to wet and and polish his headlight lenses. Guy gets some yes answers with a link to another thread and a YouTube video as proof, albeit one that skipped the polish step and sprayed them with 2K clear (and on C6 Vette at that), and the guy says he doesn't want to do that. Then the guy says he just wants to sand and polish, not sand and clear. Guy failed to comprehend that the link to the thread and the video all had to sand down their headlights past the UV coating. Same thing he has to do with the 3M kit for it to work, and likely why others found it didn't work (because they didn't get past the UV coating). Oh but guess what? That UV coating has to be replaced (2K clear and other automotive grade products do exactly this) or the maintenance will be as exactly as described by others in this thread. People tell him that simply polishing is not good enough because it doesn't last (neither does a polish job on a Vette's paint last time I checked), but he doesn't want to hear it. Those guys that have a garage queen in Maine always say that, while the guys that have their Vette out in the New Mexico sun say they are lying....gee, go figure! Of course the UV exposure has absolutely nothing to do with it, right? Lol.
Guy is fighting with himself instead of going out and doing it or hiring someone to do it for him. Guy asks why different results for using the same exact products...well duh! No proof they were same exact products, equipment, or techniques used by people that knew what they were doing. Kind of like me getting a faster lap time in his car than he can. Same car, same track right? No so fast skippy!
So after that said, I'm subscribing to this train wreck for the pure entertainment value. Thank you, drive through!
Sanded First coat of SprayMax 2K Clear After SprayMax 2K Clear
The two choices after sanding are polishing to remove the scratches, OR top coating to fill the scratches. I have personally used the sand and 2K clear method on several other headlights, fog lights, and parking lights from other vehicles (Hondas, Toyotas, and a Cadillac), and it works and lasts. When if it comes time to do the Vette, I will not hesitate to do the same. The 2K clear is nearly bullet proof (just read the MSDS and you'll see why) so there is no more screwing around with temporary polishes or alleged UV protectant that you wipe on and off. Dicking around with repolishing a set of headlights all the time is just stupid. So there's that.
However, this thread IS an absolute train wreck, and I love it. Guy comes in and wants to know if it's possible to wet and and polish his headlight lenses. Guy gets some yes answers with a link to another thread and a YouTube video as proof, albeit one that skipped the polish step and sprayed them with 2K clear (and on C6 Vette at that), and the guy says he doesn't want to do that. Then the guy says he just wants to sand and polish, not sand and clear. Guy failed to comprehend that the link to the thread and the video all had to sand down their headlights past the UV coating. Same thing he has to do with the 3M kit for it to work, and likely why others found it didn't work (because they didn't get past the UV coating). Oh but guess what? That UV coating has to be replaced (2K clear and other automotive grade products do exactly this) or the maintenance will be as exactly as described by others in this thread. People tell him that simply polishing is not good enough because it doesn't last (neither does a polish job on a Vette's paint last time I checked), but he doesn't want to hear it. Those guys that have a garage queen in Maine always say that, while the guys that have their Vette out in the New Mexico sun say they are lying....gee, go figure! Of course the UV exposure has absolutely nothing to do with it, right? Lol.
Guy is fighting with himself instead of going out and doing it or hiring someone to do it for him. Guy asks why different results for using the same exact products...well duh! No proof they were same exact products, equipment, or techniques used by people that knew what they were doing. Kind of like me getting a faster lap time in his car than he can. Same car, same track right? No so fast skippy!
So after that said, I'm subscribing to this train wreck for the pure entertainment value. Thank you, drive through!
Sanded First coat of SprayMax 2K Clear After SprayMax 2K Clear
Thanks for your insight lol. I guess you missed the whole point. I never said I minded having to keep reapplying coating to keep the headlights clear. 3m IS NOT DESIGNED TO CLEAR COAT AFTER POLISHING NOR IS A LOT OF OTHER BRANDS. I asked a simple question, can you sand and polish out a C6 headlight with THE 3M method. I never asked for clearcoat steps or anything else, just the 3m METHOD. And you come here and show 10 different headlights you have done but not a C6! WHAT DOES THAT BRING TO THE DISCUSSION ZERO!
I say do it. I've had great luck with the 3M kit on many different cars. Just plastic, like you said. But one thing that I've noticed, polishing doesn't last very long. I'd end up having to do it a few times a year. Nothing beats a fresh set of lenses. It really isn't that hard to do. Plus, you can paint the "buckets" black. You win twice brother!
I have a 2008 that both lens crazed completely over and was told it would be $500 each for the shop to replace. So with nothing to lose, I started to sand them out by hand as I could not get power to it in the condo parking lot. I started with 800 wet sand and through a lot of trial and error ended up with near new looking lens. I found during the sanding process that the crazing seems to be in a film that is over the plastic lens. The process I ended up with all by hand was to go from 320 wet grit to get the crazing layer(?) off, then to 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, and then 3000. Then plastic cleaner followed by UV protector cleaner. It has only been 2 months since I finished, but still looking good and I plan on more polishing for upkeep.
I have a 2008 that both lens crazed completely over and was told it would be $500 each for the shop to replace. So with nothing to lose, I started to sand them out by hand as I could not get power to it in the condo parking lot. I started with 800 wet sand and through a lot of trial and error ended up with near new looking lens. I found during the sanding process that the crazing seems to be in a film that is over the plastic lens. The process I ended up with all by hand was to go from 320 wet grit to get the crazing layer(?) off, then to 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, and then 3000. Then plastic cleaner followed by UV protector cleaner. It has only been 2 months since I finished, but still looking good and I plan on more polishing for upkeep.
So basically what YOUR saying is that it can be done and you personally have done it successfully. That's what I needed to know. So all the naysayers are obviously doing something wrong. I don't mind the upkeep as long as I know the original process os sanding and polishing gets the lens clear again or in my case looks uniform again because I have de-lamination.
Yes it can be because I did it. It took several days doing it by hand and that crazed layer was very hard to get thru by hand even with the 320 grit. I felt as I said that I had nothing to lose since the lens were looking like crap( LIke picture in post #35) and if I tried and made them worst I would still have to replace them, but if it worked I didn't have to replace. Diyguy did his with power tools and used similar grits and his before and after pics look exactly like mine except for Jet Stream Blue color, so I say go for it.
Yes it can be because I did it. It took several days doing it by hand and that crazed layer was very hard to get thru by hand even with the 320 grit. I felt as I said that I had nothing to lose since the lens were looking like crap( LIke picture in post #35) and if I tried and made them worst I would still have to replace them, but if it worked I didn't have to replace. Diyguy did his with power tools and used similar grits and his before and after pics look exactly like mine except for Jet Stream Blue color, so I say go for it.
Cool. I have the 3m system so yes power drill or my DA Porter Cable polisher will be used for sanding and polishing. Thank god I have no crazing.
Ed's already addressed your question multiple times while wishing the best in your intended endeavor.
My experience echos his and many others on a rather routine subject here.
Why ask a question if what you really want is affirmation?
Have you not read this thread? There are multiple replies of yes it can be done and the same no it can't. So what does that do for me?
When was the last time a thread like this was discussed? 2600 hits, I don't think it is so routine.
our lenses are pretty inexpensive -, worth it when you consider the time and effort
Money is not the issue. I don't want to take the lenses out for lack of experience. If I had someone local to me to take the headlights out for me, I would ship them out tom to be changed.
Ed's already addressed your question multiple times while wishing the best in your intended endeavor.
My experience echos his and many others on a rather routine subject here.
Why ask a question if what you really want is affirmation?
the OP isn't looking for affirmation he is asking about those who have done it.....I think he is trying to gather all the input he can before he makes a decision, good bad or otherwise. No harm in that.
I did the same before I replaced my lenses on my 07 and yet despite all the input and my asking questions I still had some issues that were not addressed. So if you have responded you don't need to say anything else, there is no harm with the thread continuing as others may have questions or learn from the responses. Not sure why people get upset if they answer a question and the thread doesn't just end.
the OP isn't looking for affirmation he is asking about those who have done it.....I think he is trying to gather all the input he can before he makes a decision, good bad or otherwise. No harm in that.
I did the same before I replaced my lenses on my 07 and yet despite all the input and my asking questions I still had some issues that were not addressed. So if you have responded you don't need to say anything else, there is no harm with the thread continuing as others may have questions or learn from the responses. Not sure why people get upset if they answer a question and the thread doesn't just end.
Money is not the issue. I don't want to take the lenses out for lack of experience. If I had someone local to me to take the headlights out for me, I would ship them out tom to be changed.
FWIW, when I attempted to do mine I followed all the instructions about heating them up and for how long etc. got the table all set up with the tools and......nothing, those bastards would not come apart no matter what. Meanwhile I see all these people who said it was no probem, they came apart easy. I was like WTF?? I was all ready to ship them off and in my case I was looking at about $100 in shipping on top of the labor and lenses. I called my buddy who did some before and he offered up his powder coat oven at the shop. I figured I had nothing to lose....he baked them longer than all the instructions stated and still had issues getting them open but he did and charged me $0 for his time. I took them home, cleaned them up and did the re-assembly. Not too bad, should have bought a few more clamps but I managed to get them done. So I put them back in the car and here is where the problems started. Remember where I said I read the instructions? Well there is a part where they say to remove the 3 studs from the bottom of the headlight case to make it easier to work with, they won't wobble around. DO NOT DO THIS! Those three studs are the ones you use to re attach the housings to the car but they are also responsible for the headlight fit and alignment. If you don't have them just right you have huge panel gaps and your headlights will not be aimed correctly. There is no R or L only up or down and all that is dependent on those three studs So I spent several hours getting that corrected.
Money is not the issue. I don't want to take the lenses out for lack of experience. If I had someone local to me to take the headlights out for me, I would ship them out tom to be changed.
Fair enough, however maybe consider looking at our youtube.com/umnitza channel.
The removal of your headlights requires the following (relatively common tools)
1) Jack/Jack Stands
2) Flat Head screw driver (or fender push clip pry tool)
3) T15 torx
4) 10mm socket with driver - deep wall is best
5) 7mm socket
that's it.Bumper doesn't even need to come off and you can ship to us for a relatively quick turn around if you wish we even offer 2-3 day pre-paid (well, you do pay for that) labels for about $45-60 depending on where you are located so you don't have to stand in line at the post/fedex/ups stores.
FWIW, when I attempted to do mine I followed all the instructions about heating them up and for how long etc. got the table all set up with the tools and......nothing, those bastards would not come apart no matter what. Meanwhile I see all these people who said it was no probem, they came apart easy. I was like WTF?? I was all ready to ship them off and in my case I was looking at about $100 in shipping on top of the labor and lenses. I called my buddy who did some before and he offered up his powder coat oven at the shop. I figured I had nothing to lose....he baked them longer than all the instructions stated and still had issues getting them open but he did and charged me $0 for his time. I took them home, cleaned them up and did the re-assembly. Not too bad, should have bought a few more clamps but I managed to get them done. So I put them back in the car and here is where the problems started. Remember where I said I read the instructions? Well there is a part where they say to remove the 3 studs from the bottom of the headlight case to make it easier to work with, they won't wobble around. DO NOT DO THIS! Those three studs are the ones you use to re attach the housings to the car but they are also responsible for the headlight fit and alignment. If you don't have them just right you have huge panel gaps and your headlights will not be aimed correctly. There is no R or L only up or down and all that is dependent on those three studs So I spent several hours getting that corrected.
They do not come apart easily, whoever told you that was likely talking about 2005-2008 and in rare cases, those can pop open easily, for the most part they are hard and require hard work and extended oven time (heat guns do not work).
Also, you're confusing the studs for mounting to the car vs the 3 little studs that hold the inner trim in place, those need to be removed.
Last edited by info@umnitza.com; 07-18-2019 at 08:23 PM.
Reason: finished though in head, not in print...
Have you not read this thread? There are multiple replies of yes it can be done and the same no it can't. So what does that do for me?
When was the last time a thread like this was discussed? 2600 hits, I don't think it is so routine.
I read enough to know you weren't getting the answer you wanted to hear.
I said my experience echoes Ed's when I had it done. Looked better (no more peeling coating) for a short while, but the flaws (crazing) well into the lens plastic was pretty obvious upon inspection.
That there's so many discussions of replacing lenses should make it apparent that for most it's not amatter of scraping (the factory coating), sanding, polishing (and possibly coating). Those who have formulated superior aftermarket lenses have addresses the shortcoming of the stock lenses. These weren't developed just because folks were lazy and didn't want to sand/polish per youtube or infomercials.
If your car was routinely stored indoors, your results may be different.
Not sure what "number of hits" has to do with the number of headlight lens discussions.
Last edited by BackInBlack05; 07-18-2019 at 08:26 PM.
07-16-2019, 07:38 PM
we even offer 2-3 day pre-paid (well, you do pay for that) labels for about $45-60 depending on where you are located so you don't have to stand in line at the post/fedex/ups stores.
