Looking for help- front shock tower stud broke when trying to remove
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Looking for help- front shock tower stud broke when trying to remove
The top of the front shock tower stud broke off while trying to remove the nut with the Lisle tool, right at the shoulder where the threads start so I can't get anything on it to restrain while loosening the nut.
Anyone who's conquered this? Thinking I can cut off the plastic shock rod cover & try to hold it with vicegrips or pipe wrench, but if it doesn't work then it's royally screwed due to the rod being scratched up & fluid will then leak out...
Any ideas?
#4
Race Director
I would first try grinding a couple of flats on the stud that you could put a crescent wrench on. If that doesn't work you can use a cutoff wheel to cut the stud off flush with the nut. Then cut through the center of the stud and through the nut, until the nut is loose enough to remove. You might also have to cut completely through the nut.
The following users liked this post:
Andysherman (08-17-2019)
#6
Burning Brakes
Grab the top of the stud with vise grips and wind the nut up to it. Then, cut off the stud below it with a grinder or sawzall or even a hack saw. In fact, you may even be able to grab it with a vise grip below the raised nut and twist the nut off of the stud.
#9
Racer
I would wire wheel clean the exposed threads and soak it down with PB Blaster giving it time to work. (The longer the better) Then I would use an air gun on it and see if it will loosen without the stud turning. If not, I would cut the nut off with an air chisel. Heat on the nut would be helpful with the air gun approach but there may not be enough room to safely use it. Don't burn the garage down! Don't forget safety glasses.
#10
Team Owner
https://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemD...ookup=LIS50180
Don't use a grinder. You'll have steel dust all over hell.
Should be able to get one at your local auto parts store. Lisle is quality stuff.
Don't use a grinder. You'll have steel dust all over hell.
Should be able to get one at your local auto parts store. Lisle is quality stuff.
Last edited by K-Spaz; 08-17-2019 at 10:49 PM.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks guys for all your responses, heading to Advance Auto now to get the nut splitter, seems like the most painless route... will update once it's done...
#12
Drifting
Member Since: Sep 2014
Location: Atlanta - - - - - Save the manuals
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Yes, please update us. I've never had much luck with nut splitters. Suggestion, if you have trouble drill a very small hole through the nut at the spot where you are going to split and 180 degrees opposite.
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
Job is done... I ended up cutting the piston rod with a rotozip & used visegrips (2 pair as it still wanted to turn) & hit it with my impact driver, came off & was able to pull the shock out from between the control arms easily. The nut on other side came off easy with the Lisle tool, (using the correct size always helps)... I cut the rod on the other side too, as it was easier than zip tying. I zip-tyed & compressed the Bisteins before putting them on, really easy. As always, appreciate everyone's feedback.
Carlisle was awesome!
My method to ziptie & compress...
Carlisle was awesome!
My method to ziptie & compress...
#14
Job is done... I ended up cutting the piston rod with a rotozip & used visegrips (2 pair as it still wanted to turn) & hit it with my impact driver, came off & was able to pull the shock out from between the control arms easily. The nut on other side came off easy with the Lisle tool, (using the correct size always helps)... I cut the rod on the other side too, as it was easier than zip tying. I zip-tyed & compressed the Bisteins before putting them on, really easy. As always, appreciate everyone's feedback.
Carlisle was awesome!
My method to ziptie & compress...
Carlisle was awesome!
My method to ziptie & compress...