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Old 01-17-2021, 04:59 AM
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vettelover8306
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Default C6 2005 key fob receiver

I didn't know the key fob transmitter receiver was the one that shows service tire monitor message at the display... My question is ...do I need to program a new key fob transmitter or is just plug and play ???
Old 01-17-2021, 09:07 AM
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FatsWaller
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Originally Posted by vettelover8306
I didn't know the key fob transmitter receiver was the one that shows service tire monitor message at the display... My question is ...do I need to program a new key fob transmitter or is just plug and play ???
You need to program the car to recognize a new fob. You can add a fob using the short procedure, or erase all known fobs and program up to 4 from scratch. This thread is a good place to start. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tructions.html lInstructions are also in your owners manual.
Old 01-17-2021, 05:02 PM
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Dano523
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Originally Posted by vettelover8306
I didn't know the key fob transmitter receiver was the one that shows service tire monitor message at the display... My question is ...do I need to program a new key fob transmitter or is just plug and play ???

Depends on the RCDLR, since a new one will need to be SPS flashed to firmware it to the car, while a used one may program in itself on install and Fob learn if the correct car firmware has been flashed in.
Hence RCDLR has to security code with the BCM in order for it to work correctly with the car even if it has been firmware flashed correctly for the year.
If used one is out of same year car, then it will be flashed correctly most of the time, while if out a different year car, will need to be SPS flashed so it has the correct firmware. So simply, best to plan on SPS programming the RCDLR into the car on install. Not only does this get the unit to secuity code with the car and install the correct firmware, but puts the RCDLR into learn mode for a quick Fob's learn as well.

Hence without the RCDLR in learn mode, when you go to program the Fobs in (before you do the TPMS programming next), you trigger the RCDLR into fob relearn mode with a Tech II, will do the starter button push, will have a 10min count down on the DIC, once it finishes that count down, have about a min to push the starter button again, another 10 min count down, follower by having to push the starter button again with in about a min, for a final count down of 10 mins again, before you can start to program the fobs in one at a time. This 30 min time is really just the RCDLR security syncing with the BCM but at the same time, making sure someone can not do a quick swap of the RCDLR and program a new fob in quickly to steal the car. If you are using the Key to put the RCDLR into fob learn mode, then your going to have the 3-10min count downs every time instead.

As for flashing an used unit, do the normal SPS flashing, then go into VOD module to put the RCDLR into relearn with TDS SPS.
If new unit, then standard SPS flashing, which will put the unit into learn mode from the start.

If using TIS2000 with used unit, VOD relearn will not put it into quick learn mode, so will have the 3-10min count down.

Bottom line, really want have a tech II (clone will work fine), and at least Tis2000 when you replace the RCDLR.
Also, before you flash the RCDLR with SPS, make sure to pull the radio fuse, which Both TIS2000 and TDS will instruct you to do, then put the fuse back in after the flash.

As for replacing a RCDLR, make sure its bad before you replace it, since some times the problem is the module is fine, but there is enough RFI in the car that is blocking the fob or TPMS signals to the RCDLR antennas isntead. Hence if fob is working to start the car (even if you have to put the fob in the slot), then bank that the RCDLR is fine, and the problem lies elsewhere.

If you are having problem with the TPMS's then use a scanner on them to see if they are working correctly (before putting the car into TPMS relearn mode), and the correct type for that year car. Hence I have a scanner that I use on the TPMS to not only make sure they are working correctly to begin with, but the correct year for the car as well. Being that you have the 315MHZ tpms for the 2005 to 2009 year cars, and then different 315mhz for the 2010 to 2013 for the usa cars that has to be correct, even if the TPMS are working.

Attachment 48333004



To add here, the RCDLR communicates with the BCM on the class bus, not the GM high speed main lan bus.
So before you do anything, use a Tech II to see if you have communication with the RCDLR to begin with, and that the BCM is communicating with it as well (in the BCM data).


Pin 2 on the OBDII port is on the class 2 bus that can get to the RCDLR directly via the tech II for say programming, while on the other end of the class 2 bus is the F connector to the BCM.


So when pulling up BCM data to see if the RCDLR data is showing up in BCM data, the Tech II is pulling from the GM high speed lan bus on OBDII port Pins 6 and 14 to get to the BCM, then BCM using the serial 2 F to H, to communicate with the RCDLR itself.



So again, BCM and RCDLR and it comication may be fine themselves to begin with and problems elsewhere.

As for RCDLR antenna's (4 of them), you have one in the glove box slot, one on each side of the car about the gas cap door location both sides, and one in the back of the car about the license plate location.
The quick way to check them, tech II to go into RCDLR data, look at fob signal strength, and walk around the car with fob in hand. If the fob signal strength drops out on RCDLR data somewhere as you are walking around the car, you found the antenna that is having problems itself that needs to be solve. Sometimes is a bad antenna, while most of the time, problem with the connector to it, and other side connector to the RCDLR.

On the RCDLR, before you replace it once you are sure it bad, check it for cold solder joints, hence either bad from the start, or car driving on rough roads to knock the solder joints loose instead.
Attachment 48336388
Attachment 48336389

In the second photo if you look at the solder joints for the connector header pins on the bottom row for the connector header, will notice that they are complete *****. Hence this board was repaired with nothing more that just re-soldering header pins.

In other board repair where the car was driven on rough roads, its the heat sheild with the orange sticker 215 NA that has to be removed to get to chip, it legs resolders, then heat transfer paste reapplied and the heat shrink resoldered back in place.

And to point out since I have photo's of both sides on the board, there are some items on it not used on the C6. Hence when you first look at the RCDLR installing in the car, the far right hand socket will have nothing plugged into it, since these items on the board are not used on the C6
.




Last edited by Dano523; 01-17-2021 at 05:29 PM.
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Old 03-23-2021, 02:25 PM
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vettelover8306
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Originally Posted by Dano523
Depends on the RCDLR, since a new one will need to be SPS flashed to firmware it to the car, while a used one may program in itself on install and Fob learn if the correct car firmware has been flashed in.
Hence RCDLR has to security code with the BCM in order for it to work correctly with the car even if it has been firmware flashed correctly for the year.
If used one is out of same year car, then it will be flashed correctly most of the time, while if out a different year car, will need to be SPS flashed so it has the correct firmware. So simply, best to plan on SPS programming the RCDLR into the car on install. Not only does this get the unit to secuity code with the car and install the correct firmware, but puts the RCDLR into learn mode for a quick Fob's learn as well.

Hence without the RCDLR in learn mode, when you go to program the Fobs in (before you do the TPMS programming next), you trigger the RCDLR into fob relearn mode with a Tech II, will do the starter button push, will have a 10min count down on the DIC, once it finishes that count down, have about a min to push the starter button again, another 10 min count down, follower by having to push the starter button again with in about a min, for a final count down of 10 mins again, before you can start to program the fobs in one at a time. This 30 min time is really just the RCDLR security syncing with the BCM but at the same time, making sure someone can not do a quick swap of the RCDLR and program a new fob in quickly to steal the car. If you are using the Key to put the RCDLR into fob learn mode, then your going to have the 3-10min count downs every time instead.

As for flashing an used unit, do the normal SPS flashing, then go into VOD module to put the RCDLR into relearn with TDS SPS.
If new unit, then standard SPS flashing, which will put the unit into learn mode from the start.

If using TIS2000 with used unit, VOD relearn will not put it into quick learn mode, so will have the 3-10min count down.

Bottom line, really want have a tech II (clone will work fine), and at least Tis2000 when you replace the RCDLR.
Also, before you flash the RCDLR with SPS, make sure to pull the radio fuse, which Both TIS2000 and TDS will instruct you to do, then put the fuse back in after the flash.

As for replacing a RCDLR, make sure its bad before you replace it, since some times the problem is the module is fine, but there is enough RFI in the car that is blocking the fob or TPMS signals to the RCDLR antennas isntead. Hence if fob is working to start the car (even if you have to put the fob in the slot), then bank that the RCDLR is fine, and the problem lies elsewhere.

If you are having problem with the TPMS's then use a scanner on them to see if they are working correctly (before putting the car into TPMS relearn mode), and the correct type for that year car. Hence I have a scanner that I use on the TPMS to not only make sure they are working correctly to begin with, but the correct year for the car as well. Being that you have the 315MHZ tpms for the 2005 to 2009 year cars, and then different 315mhz for the 2010 to 2013 for the usa cars that has to be correct, even if the TPMS are working.





To add here, the RCDLR communicates with the BCM on the class bus, not the GM high speed main lan bus.
So before you do anything, use a Tech II to see if you have communication with the RCDLR to begin with, and that the BCM is communicating with it as well (in the BCM data).


Pin 2 on the OBDII port is on the class 2 bus that can get to the RCDLR directly via the tech II for say programming, while on the other end of the class 2 bus is the F connector to the BCM.


So when pulling up BCM data to see if the RCDLR data is showing up in BCM data, the Tech II is pulling from the GM high speed lan bus on OBDII port Pins 6 and 14 to get to the BCM, then BCM using the serial 2 F to H, to communicate with the RCDLR itself.



So again, BCM and RCDLR and it comication may be fine themselves to begin with and problems elsewhere.

As for RCDLR antenna's (4 of them), you have one in the glove box slot, one on each side of the car about the gas cap door location both sides, and one in the back of the car about the license plate location.
The quick way to check them, tech II to go into RCDLR data, look at fob signal strength, and walk around the car with fob in hand. If the fob signal strength drops out on RCDLR data somewhere as you are walking around the car, you found the antenna that is having problems itself that needs to be solve. Sometimes is a bad antenna, while most of the time, problem with the connector to it, and other side connector to the RCDLR.

On the RCDLR, before you replace it once you are sure it bad, check it for cold solder joints, hence either bad from the start, or car driving on rough roads to knock the solder joints loose instead.



In the second photo if you look at the solder joints for the connector header pins on the bottom row for the connector header, will notice that they are complete *****. Hence this board was repaired with nothing more that just re-soldering header pins.

In other board repair where the car was driven on rough roads, its the heat sheild with the orange sticker 215 NA that has to be removed to get to chip, it legs resolders, then heat transfer paste reapplied and the heat shrink resoldered back in place.

And to point out since I have photo's of both sides on the board, there are some items on it not used on the C6. Hence when you first look at the RCDLR installing in the car, the far right hand socket will have nothing plugged into it, since these items on the board are not used on the C6
.
sorry for the late response thanks a lot you have gave me a lot of info I didn't know thanks one more time

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