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I heard those LT1 4th Gen Corvettes had problems with water leaking into distributor which would disable car. Might be the same for Impala SS LT1 motors too.
The LT1 used an optispark distributor that was mounted under the water pump. Early units were basically sealed, and so you'd get typical cap and rotor wear, but because they were located under the water pump, you had the risk of soaking it with a water pump failure. The kinds of people who didn't do preventative maintenance and never replaced a water pump until it failed were also the type too cheap to replace their optispark. It wasn't a great design, but not half as bad as people make it out to be. They really don't like getting wet though, so if you're the sort of guy who power washes their engine bay, let's the water pump fail, or various other bad owner behaviors, you end up with an unreliable lt1.
The LT1 used an optispark distributor that was mounted under the water pump. Early units were basically sealed, and so you'd get typical cap and rotor wear, but because they were located under the water pump, you had the risk of soaking it with a water pump failure. The kinds of people who didn't do preventative maintenance and never replaced a water pump until it failed were also the type too cheap to replace their optispark. It wasn't a great design, but not half as bad as people make it out to be. They really don't like getting wet though, so if you're the sort of guy who power washes their engine bay, let's the water pump fail, or various other bad owner behaviors, you end up with an unreliable lt1.
No using Gunk degreaser even though it smells good.
I reused stock wiring from the Bose amp -> door subs for my infinity amp -> 6.5" door speakers. I ran power and ground from the back (GS) all the way up since I already had a distribution block for my sub in the rear. I had also ran a remote wire all the way to the back but since I was running RCA cables from the head unit to the amp, I just spliced remote wire behind the head unit to the infinity. Wires to the door seemed to be 14 or 12 gauge. Probably a little undersized for a 60W RMS but the runs are really short so I figured it'd be fine. I also dont ever get near max volume/clipping on my amp. I'd be surprised if I'm using more than 25-30 watts. The wires to the door subs are also larger than the normal speaker wires (16 or 18 gauge off the top of my head?).
The LT1 used an optispark distributor that was mounted under the water pump. Early units were basically sealed, and so you'd get typical cap and rotor wear, but because they were located under the water pump, you had the risk of soaking it with a water pump failure. The kinds of people who didn't do preventative maintenance and never replaced a water pump until it failed were also the type too cheap to replace their optispark. It wasn't a great design, but not half as bad as people make it out to be. They really don't like getting wet though, so if you're the sort of guy who power washes their engine bay, let's the water pump fail, or various other bad owner behaviors, you end up with an unreliable lt1.
I had to maintain two 4th gen LT1s... Both never had any issues with the dreaded opti. issue and Both ran like a champ but I was always sad it wasnt the LS. I was young when I had my SS so I abused the living beans out of the tires and the clutch but the engine never quit. I bought the car with the reverse gear chewed up (some idiot cut the reverse lockout servo instead of bypassing CAGS with a fuse and hit reverse a little too often, lol) but the trans never gave me any issues either. even when one of my buddies wanted to go for a joy ride and did a 1-2-3-2 money shift. Locked up the tires on the highway and fishtailed around. Probably would've blown the engine if i had good tires on it. Oh. The car was also from North Carolina and owned by a young military guy before me. When I bought the car and first detailed it, i literally found 1/2" of tire rubber stuck on the inside of the back bumper.
I replaced the lower door speakers with hertz woofers, and the upper 3 1/2 inch with jl items. Used a metra adapter plate for the lowers. Got rid of the booming base which was not to my liking. Great advice and service from crutchfield. Used a homemade harness adapter for the woofers rather than cut into the factory wiring. Kept the remainder of the stock bose system.
I appreciated all the advice from the forum.
Both of my front 10" Bose Speakers seem to be blown. Any bass, and it is sad farts. These are in my 2012 GS with the Premium sound. I have debated replacing everything, but rather spend that money on something else. What are my options to replace the 10" Bose Speakers? Are there other 10" options to simply plug and play with the Bose that aren't bose, or is it best to find a used pair/set of speakers.
Mine darted also, cone was coming off. Glued them back on.
Mine darted also, cone was coming off. Glued them back on.
Yeah that is about what mine looked like. I found a great deal on a set of speakers and just ordered those. Will glue up the old ones to have spares in case it happens again. Though when I put a head unit in I may swap out the other door speakers and try to find something to keep it from happening again. A Plastic protective shield from the factory would have made too much sense.
Yeah that is about what mine looked like. I found a great deal on a set of speakers and just ordered those. Will glue up the old ones to have spares in case it happens again. Though when I put a head unit in I may swap out the other door speakers and try to find something to keep it from happening again. A Plastic protective shield from the factory would have made too much sense.
So you are still going to swap out the factory head unit?
I replaced the lower door speakers with hertz woofers, and the upper 3 1/2 inch with jl items. Used a metra adapter plate for the lowers. Got rid of the booming base which was not to my liking. Great advice and service from crutchfield. Used a homemade harness adapter for the woofers rather than cut into the factory wiring. Kept the remainder of the stock bose system.
I appreciated all the advice from the forum.
I'm going to take my comments back. If what you wanted is to reduce your bass output, swapping out the factory 10s for components isn100% the right way to go. Seeing as the 10s only cover the very lowest of frequencies, you could probably just unplug them for the same effect.
So you are still going to swap out the factory head unit?
Yeah that is the plan. Waiting on IRS to get off their lazy butts and send my refund. Think I am getting the Alpine ILX-W650 that I have been eyeing for awhile. I like the shallow depth and the ability to piggy back their amp to the back of it when that time comes. I am just going to do the head unit and a rear camera for the moment and see how things sound. Then look to upgrade the rest at a later date if need be.
Yeah that is the plan. Waiting on IRS to get off their lazy butts and send my refund. Think I am getting the Alpine ILX-W650 that I have been eyeing for awhile. I like the shallow depth and the ability to piggy back their amp to the back of it when that time comes. I am just going to do the head unit and a rear camera for the moment and see how things sound. Then look to upgrade the rest at a later date if need be.
IMO, if you're going to do an amp, the little power pack isn't worth it. It won't be any more powerful than the stock amp. You would be far better off adding a smaller footprint standard amp vs a power pack style amp.
Just my opinion. I figure if you're gonna do something, better to do it right, even if your goals aren't stratospheric.
IMO, if you're going to do an amp, the little power pack isn't worth it. It won't be any more powerful than the stock amp. You would be far better off adding a smaller footprint standard amp vs a power pack style amp.
Just my opinion. I figure if you're gonna do something, better to do it right, even if your goals aren't stratospheric.
I was looking at their bridged model that is 200W mono. If I go that route it would be for a sub in the rear and still use the Bose for the remaining speakers. However, I am not looking for anything super loud as I am still pretty happy now that my woofers are back in the mix. So may not even look at that route either way.
Last edited by SPSandman; May 19, 2021 at 02:33 PM.
Yeah that is the plan. Waiting on IRS to get off their lazy butts and send my refund. Think I am getting the Alpine ILX-W650 that I have been eyeing for awhile. I like the shallow depth and the ability to piggy back their amp to the back of it when that time comes. I am just going to do the head unit and a rear camera for the moment and see how things sound. Then look to upgrade the rest at a later date if need be.
How about a front cam? That rear camera is for when you go into reverse for parking? Not a dash cam?
How about a front cam? That rear camera is for when you go into reverse for parking? Not a dash cam?
Never had an issue parking in the front and 9 times out of 10 I back into the parking spot, even without a camera. Car isn't that big. Always safest way to leave a parking spot. I have another dash cam if I want one for that.
Last edited by SPSandman; May 20, 2021 at 11:13 AM.
Never had an issue parking in the front and 9 times out of 10 I back into the parking spot, even without a camera. Car isn't that big. Always safest way to leave a parking spot. I have another dash cam if I want one for that.
Not tracking. Still plenty of room to back into any spot and if I am in a parking lot that has stupid narrow spots for even small cars I don't park near anyone if I can help it. The wide bodies are only 3.3" wider than the base.
Not tracking. Still plenty of room to back into any spot and if I am in a parking lot that has stupid narrow spots for even small cars I don't park near anyone if I can help it. The wide bodies are only 3.3" wider than the base.
Just be careful of those cement markers that are in front of those parking spaces as they can take out your rear sway bar when backing.
Just be careful of those cement markers that are in front of those parking spaces as they can take out your rear sway bar when backing.
Never had an issue since I got the car and the mirrors work and it isn't a big truck and doesn't have to back all the way into a spot.
Anyway, I said if I get a head unit I would be getting the rear camera. You were asking why not a front camera initially.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
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