rbwinston

I've looked at most of the "loaner" tools at Auto Zone, O'rilley, etc. and the loaner tools they have seem to get reviews "don't work on LS motors". Anybody confirm or deny this and what do I need to be looking for. They all have the puller, however.
Thanks!!!!

HOXXOH

IIRC, I just used the old bolt for the installation until it was nearly completely in place and then switched to the new bolt for the final torque + degree specs. It's been 10 years ago, so there's a possible memory fade, but I know I didn't need any special tool.

subfloor@centurytrans

You use the old bolt once the balancer is on but you do NOT use it to actually get it on the crank as it's not quite long enough. If if you're not careful you'll end up stripping the first few threads of it.

The easiest solution is to get the proper size threaded rod from Fastenal. That plus a large nut and a few washers and you've got a complete installation tool that works very well.

farmington

Do NOT use the old bolt.

subfloor@centurytrans

You are supposed to use the old bolt to make sure the balancer is fully seated on the crank.

C6ToGo

It is basically just a 16mm piece of all-thread. I haven't seen it available in the parts store loaner tool kits. As said above, you can find at a specialty bolt supplier.
Or $14 here on Amazon or eBay.

Don't use the old bolt to install the balancer. You can't push balancer on the crank far enough to start the bolt without risking stripping some crank snout threads.
Do use the old bolt after the install tool to get the balancer positioned and torqued to spec. The new bolt (OE at least) is a torque to yield bolt designed to use once and you don't want to use it up on the install.

rbwinston

THAT'S what I was looking for....16MM. Thanks. Still think I'll take the old bolt along to confirm the thread. I've read that you do want to use the old bolt and torque to spec before removing it and installing the new ARP bolt based on the 6-12 position method. Makes sense to me. Yea, I read a number of comments on the "loaner" tools that they won't work on the LS motors due to being the bolt is too short so it's off to Fastenal or similar when I'm ready. Any idea how long this needs to be?? Thanks for your reply. Appreciate it.

C6ToGo

I pulled mine out and measured. 6.5"

you should be looking for M16 x 2.0 (pitch) x 165 (length in mm)

I did a write up years ago when i did mine. This is what i wrote based on my research before doing it:

• Replace timing cover crank seal. DO IT....10 dollars and 2 minutes with a small pry bar. Install a balancer install tool into crank (eBay, $15 for a 16mm threaded rod with nuts. worked great)
• Put balancer on crank and screw down nut until on enough to pull tool and install OLD balancer bolt without risking thread damage. I didn't need to boil balancer or put a bag of ice on crank as some suggested to ease reinstall.
• Tighten balancer down with old bolt to 240 lb ft (autozone loaner torque wrench-pray for accuracy). I was supposed to check gap of old balancer to crank end snout but forgot.
• swap in new bolt and tighten to 37 lb ft, mark the bolt straight from 12 to 6 o'clock with a sharpie marker. Make a mark on the balancer about half way between 3 and 6 o'clock. This will be 135 degrees...you want to tighten the new bolt to 140 degrees. ($4 GM bolt...didn't go ARP)

rbwinston

Thanks Brian... Just what I needed to know. Cross your fingers, going to get started this weekend then pick up the threaded rod and nut Monday morning when the local nut and bolt shop opens. Everything makes sense. Local Corvette repair specialist wanted $600 plus my parts to do it, bet a dealer would be close to $13-1400 all in. That's a lot of $$ when I can do it myself. Even with the better balancer, ARP bolt, seal, I bet I'm under $300. Too bad the loaner installer tool doesn't work on these but it's just one little side trip. Asked the local guy how much wobble I could afford and he said "none"! Makes sense when he explained that any wobble causes the belts to hit the sides of the balancer grooves and not ride properly, leading to belt failure at a minimum, possible catastrophic failure if the balancer were to separate.

farmington

When I made mine, I got two nuts and welded one on the end of the rod. To keep the rod from turning. Use two wrenches. Get a hardened washer to put between the balancer and the nut you turn to do the install.