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[Z06] "service electrical system"

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Old 05-09-2007, 04:55 PM
  #21  
PetaVette
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Originally Posted by outnumbered
So, it sounds as if this short could blow the fuse?

I don't recall hitting the rev limiter at the time this happened to mine.

I will save the info for my tech in the event it should happen again.

Thanks for the info.

Dan
So this means I can't bounce off the rev limiter in every gear anymore Bummer
Old 05-09-2007, 07:45 PM
  #22  
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Default What was found

Originally Posted by cbgpe
Vette Doctors did the work , cam milled heads, 11.5 to 1, long tubes air inlet kit tune. They have not had any similar problems. The car runs fine no other issues . We have a local mechanic who does trouble shooting for the local dealers when they cannot figure things out. The Z will be on his door step monday
Will let everyone know what he finds.
The o2 sensor wires were just fine. Removed cleaned and checked all grounds on the car. Put an oscilloscope on the alternator and found 0.2-0.6 Volts of ac "ripple" in the output. Called the dealer with the info he said that he would order and install a new alternator and a new mass air flow meter as there was a bulletin on it with one of the codes I had. BTW the problem only occurs when the car runs for more than an hour and always at highway cruise speed. The car is likely heat soaked and it may be related to a weak or marginal diode in the alternator allowing the "ripple" to increase. BTW will also change the horn fuse as some one here suggested. It cannot hurt and is a cheap date. The Vette doctors want the car back after the dealer changes the mass air meter and the alternator to see what they can do. Thanks for all the help here on the forum....CBGPE
Old 05-09-2007, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by cbgpe
The o2 sensor wires were just fine. Removed cleaned and checked all grounds on the car. Put an oscilloscope on the alternator and found 0.2-0.6 Volts of ac "ripple" in the output. Called the dealer with the info he said that he would order and install a new alternator and a new mass air flow meter as there was a bulletin on it with one of the codes I had. BTW the problem only occurs when the car runs for more than an hour and always at highway cruise speed. The car is likely heat soaked and it may be related to a weak or marginal diode in the alternator allowing the "ripple" to increase. BTW will also change the horn fuse as some one here suggested. It cannot hurt and is a cheap date. The Vette doctors want the car back after the dealer changes the mass air meter and the alternator to see what they can do. Thanks for all the help here on the forum....CBGPE
Yeah, that sounds right, and I learned something here too. Good work posting it here and keeping us advised.
Old 05-14-2007, 04:23 PM
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Default alternator changed out

Originally Posted by cbgpe
The o2 sensor wires were just fine. Removed cleaned and checked all grounds on the car. Put an oscilloscope on the alternator and found 0.2-0.6 Volts of ac "ripple" in the output. Called the dealer with the info he said that he would order and install a new alternator and a new mass air flow meter as there was a bulletin on it with one of the codes I had. BTW the problem only occurs when the car runs for more than an hour and always at highway cruise speed. The car is likely heat soaked and it may be related to a weak or marginal diode in the alternator allowing the "ripple" to increase. BTW will also change the horn fuse as some one here suggested. It cannot hurt and is a cheap date. The Vette doctors want the car back after the dealer changes the mass air meter and the alternator to see what they can do. Thanks for all the help here on the forum....CBGPE
Had the alternator changed out by the dealer at no charge along with the horn fuse (Do not ask me how this could help but some body here suggested it so ...) The voltage in the car is more stable not continuously fluctuating (hunting) and is staying closer to 14.2 V (13.9 -14.3 V) No indications yet of "service electrical system" on the DIC. The car seems to run better and smoother. We will see what happens with time. The dealer was very helpful despite the fact that the car had mods.
So It might be worthwhile to get an idea of how stable your voltage is. If you get the dreaded "service electrical system " warning look at your voltage if it is going up and down more quickly it could well be a bad alternator.
Old 05-14-2007, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by cbgpe
Had the alternator changed out by the dealer at no charge along with the horn fuse (Do not ask me how this could help but some body here suggested it so ...) The voltage in the car is more stable not continuously fluctuating (hunting) and is staying closer to 14.2 V (13.9 -14.3 V) No indications yet of "service electrical system" on the DIC. The car seems to run better and smoother. We will see what happens with time. The dealer was very helpful despite the fact that the car had mods.
So It might be worthwhile to get an idea of how stable your voltage is. If you get the dreaded "service electrical system " warning look at your voltage if it is going up and down more quickly it could well be a bad alternator.
It was me. My horn fuse blew. Then I got the service message and fluctuating voltage. I have been driving on the street and the track since last late spring early summer with no additional problems.

Hope yours is resolved.

Dan
Old 05-14-2007, 06:36 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by cbgpe
Had the alternator changed out by the dealer at no charge along with the horn fuse (Do not ask me how this could help but some body here suggested it so ...) The voltage in the car is more stable not continuously fluctuating (hunting) and is staying closer to 14.2 V (13.9 -14.3 V) No indications yet of "service electrical system" on the DIC. The car seems to run better and smoother. We will see what happens with time. The dealer was very helpful despite the fact that the car had mods.
So It might be worthwhile to get an idea of how stable your voltage is. If you get the dreaded "service electrical system " warning look at your voltage if it is going up and down more quickly it could well be a bad alternator.
Thanks for posting the update - I'm glad it's all sorted out now.
Old 07-26-2013, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by PetaVette
Mine came on many times when i first bought the car. one night it came on and the HUD freaked out and the radio lost its channels. I figured the car was going to quit. It didn't and when i took it in the first time they said nothing was wrong with it.They said they tightened the belt and checked out the system. It took 2 days. The next visit they replaced the alternator. That didn't help and the next visit they replaced parts of the computer module. That took almost a week but they were repairing my roof. problem seemed resolved. Then I put ARH.Haltech F1.ported TB and port matched intake and tuned it. Walah! the "the code came on again" Now it comes on occasionally and when it does the horn won't work.weird huh?? I'm not taking it back to the dealer they have no clue as to why it happening. But in my case their seems to be a gremlin in that part of the computer that controls the dash ect It doesn't bother me that much. sometimes I'll drive it for 2-3 days and nothing will happen. its a garage queen anyway. But if it could be the O2 wire I could have that checked out by my tuner.
Your issue is an easy one to fix, replace the horns. The alternator and horn for some reason they are on the same circuit. Do you have any codes in the ECU? There is a long list of items to check but if you have the codes it will help narrow it down. I had the same issue on my dad's corvette and found it to be the horns was grounding out and running the battery down. I was able to unplug them and it went away so we just replace the horns. I have the same issue with my Z06 and I'm at the point of pulling the BCM and gauge cluster checking resistance on wires. Fun fun fun
Old 09-11-2013, 10:04 AM
  #28  
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When I built a new motor 427 with APS turbo system I put all new sensors, alternator, coils, plugs, and wires on the new motor. From day one I kept getting DIC message Service Electrical System. People have told me my battery is bad but when I load test it and it was fine, and then I even went out and got a much larger battery to see if that would fix the issue, nope. The new battery is at 98% of the 675 CCA.

After that I pulled off the new alternator and had it checked out, and it was good.

I then went to an electrical auto specialist; they rechecked the alternator, battery, before starting to check out the display and all the modules on the car to find out if the issue wasn’t any of them.

I finally tracked down my issue when someone suggested swapping out my spark plugs. I used NGK BR7EF plugs and have been told by more than one tuner that they have had zero issues with those plugs. Well the issue must have been a bad plug I got in my set.

I went back to my NGK TR7IX, has anyone had this same issue and what plugs did you go with?
Old 01-14-2016, 07:47 PM
  #29  
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Been having this issue as of lately and out of nowhere. When I say nowhere I mean nothing has changed on the car for over a year if not more.

I've replaced the following:

-Battery
-Alternator
-Spark Plugs (Went back to stock AC Delco)
-Horn Fuse

I've inspected the following:
-All Grounds*
-Starter Wire
-Starter Ground

It's also been in 2 shops, 1 was the dealer and another an independent shop who ran through a bunch of tests and checks with no solution.

A few threads mentioned the MSD Wires and NGK Copper plugs causing issues with the C6 Corvette and service electrical system light.

Only thing left that is probable cause is MSD wires. After that the car is relatively stock on the electrical side of things.

Keep in mind the previous NGK plugs and MSD wires were on the car for 3+ years if not more.

I've read through over a dozen threads related to this problem.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Last edited by JPSlick; 01-14-2016 at 07:48 PM.
Old 02-28-2016, 04:56 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by JPSlick
Been having this issue as of lately and out of nowhere. When I say nowhere I mean nothing has changed on the car for over a year if not more.

I've replaced the following:

-Battery
-Alternator
-Spark Plugs (Went back to stock AC Delco)
-Horn Fuse

I've inspected the following:
-All Grounds*
-Starter Wire
-Starter Ground

It's also been in 2 shops, 1 was the dealer and another an independent shop who ran through a bunch of tests and checks with no solution.

A few threads mentioned the MSD Wires and NGK Copper plugs causing issues with the C6 Corvette and service electrical system light.

Only thing left that is probable cause is MSD wires. After that the car is relatively stock on the electrical side of things.

Keep in mind the previous NGK plugs and MSD wires were on the car for 3+ years if not more.

I've read through over a dozen threads related to this problem.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
To add, just replaced spark plug wires and the problems still persist.

Any ideas are greatly appreciated as this has been going on for 7 months and I keep dumping money blindly on parts.

I can't believe there is no way to pull the code on this to get a hint?

Its put such a damper on driving the car I'm contemplating on selling.
Old 02-28-2016, 05:37 PM
  #31  
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It is annoying, I had it come on at the tail end of last driving season and have yet to find a solution.

This car has to many low end parts to be this sensitive.
Old 02-29-2016, 10:00 AM
  #32  
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this message pops up on my car like once a year. I looked it up a while ago...and came up with the conclusion that nothing is wrong. It was something like when the car is at highway speed its not making much power and when the computer detects SLIGHTLY less voltage it gives you the warning.

Its a useless code. no worry. ill try to find the threads on it

Last edited by njk4o5; 02-29-2016 at 10:00 AM.
Old 03-15-2016, 08:17 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by [Cerberus]
It is annoying, I had it come on at the tail end of last driving season and have yet to find a solution.

This car has to many low end parts to be this sensitive.
Let me know if you come up with anything. I wish there was a way to turn off the warning permanently or use something like hp tuners to shut it off.

Car runs like a top.

I do notice it likes to do it on the highway when coasting, no load, more often.

However it does it random other times too. It's completely inconsistent except for the fact that it usually does it when the car is hot.

Last edited by JPSlick; 03-15-2016 at 08:18 PM.
Old 03-15-2016, 11:18 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by njk4o5
this message pops up on my car like once a year. I looked it up a while ago...and came up with the conclusion that nothing is wrong. It was something like when the car is at highway speed its not making much power and when the computer detects SLIGHTLY less voltage it gives you the warning.

Its a useless code. no worry. ill try to find the threads on it
Nothing wrong?
Drive it long enough till your voltage meter is around 9.6v and tell us if anything is wrong. Try and start your car after.

I fought with this gremlin for over 2 years. Replaced all the same stuff, batteries, alternators, connectors. All the ideas of what it could be, and none of what it is.LOL.
I'll check back in 1 year and 11 months to see if the gremlin was found.
Plan A, TBD.
Plan B, replace the wiring harness.
Plan C, sell the car.

Good Luck!
Old 10-01-2016, 12:20 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by JPSlick
Been having this issue as of lately and out of nowhere. When I say nowhere I mean nothing has changed on the car for over a year if not more.

I've replaced the following:

-Battery
-Alternator
-Spark Plugs (Went back to stock AC Delco)
-Horn Fuse

I've inspected the following:
-All Grounds*
-Starter Wire
-Starter Ground

It's also been in 2 shops, 1 was the dealer and another an independent shop who ran through a bunch of tests and checks with no solution.

A few threads mentioned the MSD Wires and NGK Copper plugs causing issues with the C6 Corvette and service electrical system light.

Only thing left that is probable cause is MSD wires. After that the car is relatively stock on the electrical side of things.

Keep in mind the previous NGK plugs and MSD wires were on the car for 3+ years if not more.

I've read through over a dozen threads related to this problem.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Same boat here.
Did you check your o2 sensors/wiring? Do you have aftermarket headers?
Old 10-01-2016, 12:40 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Z51LS3
Same boat here.
Did you check your o2 sensors/wiring? Do you have aftermarket headers?
It ended up being something like an emissions gas vent solenoid code which was hidden as a service electrical light by my tuner.

They do this apparently to pass inspection.

After spending hundreds and hundreds aimlessly for over 6 months months, I contacted them to see if they can remove the light.

Soon as I got there he's like "oh yeah, we did that so you can pass inspection". He removed the code entirely from ever popping up.

I found the wire later on exposed, likely from poor installation of the exhaust when it was removed a few times by dealer.

Last edited by JPSlick; 10-01-2016 at 12:44 AM.
Old 10-02-2016, 12:04 AM
  #37  
Z51LS3
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Originally Posted by JPSlick
It ended up being something like an emissions gas vent solenoid code which was hidden as a service electrical light by my tuner.

They do this apparently to pass inspection.

After spending hundreds and hundreds aimlessly for over 6 months months, I contacted them to see if they can remove the light.

Soon as I got there he's like "oh yeah, we did that so you can pass inspection". He removed the code entirely from ever popping up.

I found the wire later on exposed, likely from poor installation of the exhaust when it was removed a few times by dealer.

Wow, no ****. I had an exhaust installed, where is this wire?? o2 sensor wire?

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Old 10-02-2016, 12:30 AM
  #38  
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Did some googling on the service electrical system (there are so many forums with corvettes wow), and so many of this same common issue many left unsolved while going though same ideas!

Random FIXES that have worked for other forum members over the years;
-New alternator
-New sparkplugs
-Send ECM back to tuner (fix emissions code, or delete the DIC message).
-O2 wire burnt and fixed from long tubes (which i have)
-Horn Fuse
-fusable link
-MAF
-Battery
-Replace fuel vent solenoid


But those are a combination of the two separate messages they get. i think they are different but initially i thought were the same; (http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_info/C6/);
"SERVICE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM"
This message displays if an electrical problem has occurred within the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Have your vehicle serviced by your GM dealer.

"SERVICE CHARGING SYSTEM"
Press the RESET button to acknowledge that you have read the message and to remove it from the display. The message will reappear every 10 minutes until this condition changes. You will hear multiple chimes when this message is displayed.
If this message comes on while you are driving, you may have a problem with the electrical charging system. It could indicate that you have a loose or broken drive belt or another electrical problem. Have it checked right away by your GM dealer. Driving while this warning message is on could drain your battery.
If you must drive a short distance with the message on, be certain to turn off your accessories, such as the radio and air conditioner.

So, mine says "Service electrical system",

i think suspects could still be;
-Check O2 wiring at long tube headers, and any loose wire from install.
-sparkplugs - will swap to AC Delco.
-Tune/pcm (contacting the tuner now).

Last edited by Z51LS3; 10-08-2016 at 11:15 AM.
Old 10-02-2016, 12:48 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Z51LS3
Wow, no ****. I had an exhaust installed, where is this wire?? o2 sensor wire?
By the axle back, passenger side.

Gas tank vent solenoid or something. You'll see it. No need to remove exhaust. It's tucked up right before the muffler.
Old 10-04-2016, 10:53 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by JPSlick
By the axle back, passenger side.

Gas tank vent solenoid or something. You'll see it. No need to remove exhaust. It's tucked up right before the muffler.
Ok, great thanks.


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