BossZR1

Took Ranger's advice and when ahead and bought a torque wrench, 34 mm socket and tube of locktite threadlocker blue. I have 1500 miles on the Z with a few spirited drives ... particularly following the cam package so I thought I'd check the axle nuts. I'm sure glad I didn't put it off any further. The passenger side rear was finger tight and the drivers side rear was not much better (maybe 30 ft-lbs). I removed the nuts, spread a film of locktite on the bottom threads and re-torqued to 118 ft-lbs. I'll re-check periodically.

That is

Larry T

BS is correct, however, glad you got 'er dun! I did this a while back and have checked the torque and all is well...

Varmit

same same

1-2-b-67L89

If you do a search you can probably find the Gm service bullentin that was posted on the forum that called for replacing the nuts with new ones and torquing to a much higher amount. Don't remember exactly!
Many of us have found the torque less than applied at the factory. I believe it is a loosening issue as both of my nuts had the white marks across the nut usually identifying the nut was torqued.

speedwaylemans

Its 160 ft lbs

vjones

Do the 08's have the new nuts?

1-2-b-67L89

Sorry, let me clarify! The service bullentin just stated to replace the loosened nuts with new ones (same part number). The part number as far as I know was not changed and I do have two new axle nuts sitting at home waiting change out.

1-2-b-67L89

Mhttp://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1707539&highlight=axle+ nut+looseningore to read:http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...+nut+loosening
More info on the subject.

GrampZ

Where did the 160 come from?

Can someone post the TSB, or link? TIA

Tamulinas2

Hi All:

The rear axel is a tapered spline. As you drive aggressively,
it forces the hub further on to the spline. Putting Locktite on
the nut wii NOT prevent the hub from becomming loose in the
future. KEEP CHECKING THE TORQUE! Putting Locktite on the
nut will only obscure the proper torque (118 lbs). Be advised!

Good luck,

Stacey

1-2-b-67L89

Here you go, from our archives:
Subject: Tapping or Scraping Noise From Rear Wheel Area (Replace Wheel Drive Shaft Nut) #07-04-95-001 - (09/26/2007)
Models: 2005-2008 Cadillac XLR
2005-2008 Chevrolet Corvette
Condition
Some customers may comment on a tapping or a scraping noise coming from the rear wheel area.
Cause
This condition may be due to the torque on the wheel drive shaft nut relaxing over time.
Correction
Replace the left and the right wheel drive shaft nut following the procedure below.
Remove the center cap from the rim.
Remove and discard the wheel drive shaft nut.
Apply LOCTITE™ 272, or equivalent, to the threads of the axle shaft.
Install the nut and tighten to the new specification.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 215 N·m (160 lb ft).
Install the center cap to the rim.
Important: The vehicle should not be driven for 24 hours following the repair in order to allow the thread lock to cure.
Part Number
Description
Qty

10257766
Nut
2 (one per side)


Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

F9712*
Wheel Drive Shaft Nut - Replace
0.3 hr

*This is a unique labor operation for bulletin use only. It will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION


© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

Ranger

I worked this issue in 2006 and early 2007. Mine were loose. Used locktite and retorqued to 118. They have been fine since then through about 50 more passes at the drag strip. Still tight.

One good suggestion is to properly torque them with locktite and then index the nut and axle shaft with dots of white paint. That makes it easy to detect loss of tightness visually.

Ranger

1-2-b-67L89

Everyone, please note that in the GM bullentin where it stated to use Loctite 272 or equivalent it had this message:
Important: The vehicle should not be driven for 24 hours following the repair in order to allow the thread lock to cure.

RedGTS

Why does the TSB say to replace the nuts rather than simply tighten and lock-tite them? Are they supposedly one-time use or was there a change in the nut itself at some point? It sounds to me like most people are just tightening their existing nuts.

1-2-b-67L89

Ranger is one of our experts and the one I followed when I checked mine which were loose. The nuts are fairly inexpensive but go ahead and use the used ones if you wish as many have including Ranger and look how he has used his car, and all is still well. I bought two new ones as my threads were rusty and since I had to back the nuts off I decided in my case to use new ones as the GM bullentin communicated.

Turbooo2u

33mm is what I used and it's a perfect fit.

TEXHAWK0

The axle nuts are supposed to be self-locking (interference fit threads) so that is why GM recommends replacement. I backed the axle nuts off on my C5 to lube the splines and get rid of a popping noise, retorqued the nuts without loctite, and mine have never backed off. '
I would think if you used loctite, you do not need to replace the self-locking nuts. I have a couple of new nuts, but was waiting to replace them until I was sure I had cured the popping noise.
If you continue to hear a noise even when the axle nuts are torqued correctly, you may need to apply lube to the inside part of the spline where rust tends to develop and cause a stick/release action, and therefore a popping noise.

jpcortese

I'm confused. Is it 118 ft lbs. or 160 ft lbs? big difference.

Ranger

Current GM document specifies 160 foot pounds. If yours are loose, would suggest following procedure in doc cited in Post #11.

I fixed mine before that doc was published. They've been fine since. If they do come loose again, will follow the latest GM doc on the issue.

Ranger

CanadaGrant

From what I understand the reason for the increase from 118 to 160 ft/lbs is to actually force the hub further onto the spline. At 118 ft/lbs the hubs were moving in on the spline due to driving/cornering leaving little or no torque on the nuts. The increase forces the hub further onto the spline so that no more movement can take place, allowing the nut to maintain proper torque.