Dirty Howie

Sorry to lazy to look it up ... gotta go to bed

If someone could please tell me the correct Torx sise to change brake pads.


DH

ken-rx

45 i think

allanlaw

I think that's right. BTW for those of you with pre-'08 brake pad kits, you have 6mm socket holes. Only the newer pads come with the torx holes.

Minkster

I found it easier to just pull the center pins on the rear calipers and change the pads that way for the rears. I put different rotors on the front for the track, so I have to pull the front calipers off anyway, which makes it easy to change the pads.

Futfixr

It's time for me also, what are the suggestions out there for replacements. I just drive it on the street with a little excitement from time to time.. I tend to be a late braker rather than slow to the stop. I didn't feel like I was hijacking since the OP's question was simple and already answered.

Minkster

I use C-Tek padletts and they work fine for the street.

Futfixr

I'll have to check them out.

MikeP

I just put on the ceramic Hawk hp pads on my z yesterday. Bought them from Sounthern Car Parts part #'s Front HB531Z570, REARS HB532Z570. for $ 284.31. I put them on myself. FRONT CALIPERS- pulled the two middel tourque head alignment pins on each side of the calipers to remove the 3 pads and did the same to get the inside pads.
REARS- Pulled the middle tourque head alignment pin and pulled the pads on on inside/outside of both calipers. Just need to make sure that the pads are properly seated to allow the alignment pins to thread back into caliper without any preasure or binding on pads plate. If it binds move the pads until in goes in hand tight then snug with tourque socket. No dust yet but, haven't driven far. Tomorrow will the story. I figured that pulling the pins would be alot easier than removing the whole caliper and take the risk of chipping it, but you can change the pads the old fashion way also.

Mike P.

Dirty Howie

Thanks

Dirty Howie

Rich

Did you ever figure out the rear rotor fire path issue??

And I assume you know I'm going to WSIR on Sunday!!


DH

Dr.Ron

I swapped my pads & didn't remove the pins. Just took off the caliper (2 bolts behind it) & swapped pads, replaced caliper....Didn't need to remove any pins..

Ron

Dirty Howie

Well I havn't done this yet. But will be putting my second track day on the stock pads Sunday ........... so I would like to know which way is easiest from someone who has tried both ways.


DH

Minkster

Yeap, the pads had glazed over from not driving the car much and washing it too often. I pulled the pads, cleaned them off with sand paper, put them back in, drove and stomped on them hard. Voila, the rotors are clean again. Lesson learned, drive the car more (and in the canyons more often).

I read where you're going with NASA. I won't be able to get to the track until late Sept or Oct as I am busy thru Aug, then driving back east early Sept.

Be safe out there and let us know how it goes.

Poor-sha

Do you happen to know what size the caliper bolts are? I'm packing up tools and spare pads for Summit Point tomorrow. I really don't want to pull the wheels again to check.

jlutherva

I pulled one set of front pads to look at them after VIR and had one heck of a time breaking the alignment pins loose. They were caked with thread locking compound. After looking at the outer padlets, I gave up. What's the secret to breaking the OEM bond on these bolts?

Jim

dvandentop

Easiest way by far is to take the 2 big bolts off the back of the caliper. would be pretty ****ty day when those torx bolts strip out or something and you can run the rest of the day.

Many stories about those cracking off of rouding off when trying to get them outta teh calipers

Dirty Howie

Well I knew something was wrong. Never thought it was cause you were driving it like an old lady When ever you want to to hit PCH again let me know ..... free stuff at Starbucks as my daughter is the new manager in Malibu

Give me a heads up when you can go in Sept-Oct and I will be sure to make it


DH

Dirty Howie

I thouhgt that the rounding off problem was the reason they switched to torx .............


DH

Minkster

You got it!!

That's correct. I rounded off two of the bolts on the rear and had to drive a torx into them to R&R. The secret is to use an impact wrench to break them loose, then put anti-seize on the threads when you replace. Problem is getting to the inside pins on the rear calipers. I ended up removing the rear calipers, breaking the pin bolts loose, putting anti-seize on the threads, and remounting the calipers. Now I can replace the rear pads without removing the calipers by just removing the center pins on each side of the caliper. I don't bother with the front pins cause it's easier just to remove the whole caliper than mess with them.

jlutherva

Minkster, any concerns with using an anti-seize compound where GM used a thread-locking compound? There could be some pretty severe vibration levels on the calipers as well as temps that run all the way to 350 F or so.

Jim