[Z06] DRM Bilstein C6 Z06 custom valve shock installation
07-26-2008, 12:31 AM
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
DRM Bilstein C6 Z06 custom valve shock installation
sorta a walkthrough installation of shocks on a Z since no one ever post install docs like they used to.
Well installed these tonight wasnt too bad of a job went pretty easy except i didnt have the correct socket to get the rear bottom bolt off (it is a 15/16 btw thx randy)
Waxer warning car is dirty underneath i do actually drive my car
Let me tell you these shocks are night and day difference after getting back from the 15 mile test drive so much smoother over bumps and also when doing cloverleafs on the interstate i didnt feel any bouncing around when going over the seams of the road like i did on the stock ones when taking a cloverleaf at decent speed. I am very pleased with these so far and cant wait to see how the do at teh auto x coming up soon.
Ok so start with the necessary items
upper rear shock mount 2 13mm bolts to remove
Rear 15/16 bolt and nut to remove
the front 2 bolts to take out to remove it, 2 bolts and then nuts are underneath, use a socket on bottom and wrench to hold bolt
upper shock mount on driver and passenger side
note the coolant tank is moved to the side with 2 10mm bolts that need to be removed
had to use a vice grip and rachet wrench since i dont have air tool accessibility
crappy front bushings, not sure if supposed to be torn like that?
hopefully this is worth me sweating my *** off
olde and new shock notice the length diff
had to loosen a arm bolts to remove shock (be careful to not lose the 4 washers on each bolt (do not have to do this on the rears as they slide out pretty nicely.
tightening up the front bolt
removing the rear top mount for shock
Almost done
Mission accomplished!!
Well installed these tonight wasnt too bad of a job went pretty easy except i didnt have the correct socket to get the rear bottom bolt off (it is a 15/16 btw thx randy)
Waxer warning car is dirty underneath i do actually drive my car
Let me tell you these shocks are night and day difference after getting back from the 15 mile test drive so much smoother over bumps and also when doing cloverleafs on the interstate i didnt feel any bouncing around when going over the seams of the road like i did on the stock ones when taking a cloverleaf at decent speed. I am very pleased with these so far and cant wait to see how the do at teh auto x coming up soon.
Ok so start with the necessary items
upper rear shock mount 2 13mm bolts to remove
Rear 15/16 bolt and nut to remove
the front 2 bolts to take out to remove it, 2 bolts and then nuts are underneath, use a socket on bottom and wrench to hold bolt
upper shock mount on driver and passenger side
note the coolant tank is moved to the side with 2 10mm bolts that need to be removed
had to use a vice grip and rachet wrench since i dont have air tool accessibility
crappy front bushings, not sure if supposed to be torn like that?
hopefully this is worth me sweating my *** off
olde and new shock notice the length diff
had to loosen a arm bolts to remove shock (be careful to not lose the 4 washers on each bolt (do not have to do this on the rears as they slide out pretty nicely.
tightening up the front bolt
removing the rear top mount for shock
Almost done
Mission accomplished!!
Last edited by dvandentop; 07-26-2008 at 01:04 PM.
07-26-2008, 12:51 AM
#2
Le Mans Master
excellent somehow, i was expecting the guy in your avatar to be turning the wrenches
you've read my experience, now its your turn. let us know how you like them.
somehow, i was expecting the guy in your avatar to be turning the wrenches you've read my experience, now its your turn. let us know how you like them.
07-26-2008, 01:21 AM
#3
Le Mans Master
I know, where was I earlier, but Pfadt's website (under "documents") has very good step-by-step instructions for swapping shocks. They (and I) strongly recommend dropping the top a-arms to make removal of the old shocks a lot easier. Also, a little jack raising up the lower arms at certain points in the install can make it a little easier to do.
Good work in cramped quarters - my hat's off to you.
Good work in cramped quarters - my hat's off to you.
07-26-2008, 01:32 AM
#4
Race Director
Thread Starter
I know, where was I earlier, but Pfadt's website (under "documents") has very good step-by-step instructions for swapping shocks. They (and I) strongly recommend dropping the top a-arms to make removal of the old shocks a lot easier. Also, a little jack raising up the lower arms at certain points in the install can make it a little easier to do.
Good work in cramped quarters - my hat's off to you.
Good work in cramped quarters - my hat's off to you.
hand tools like usual no luck on air compressor since garage doesnt have lights either so finished just in time to torque down the wheels to be able to hit a test drive tonight.
yep had to use a jack on lower A arms to get some of the bolt holes lined up also
07-26-2008, 10:19 AM
#6
Race Director
Thread Starter
to be honest i didnt use a torque wrench and never do use one i have done many projects over the years and only use one for engine related or transmision related stuff. never had any issues at all
but i think david farmer racing website has all the torque specs on it
i am an old farm boy so pretty much tighten it until you cant crank it down anymore. but you can feel on which bolts cant be cranked down really hard due to they are softer bolts and could turn off if you crank on them too much.
Let the flames begin from all the perfectionist who will bitch around but the dont even do their own work anyways
but i think david farmer racing website has all the torque specs on it
i am an old farm boy so pretty much tighten it until you cant crank it down anymore. but you can feel on which bolts cant be cranked down really hard due to they are softer bolts and could turn off if you crank on them too much.
Let the flames begin from all the perfectionist who will bitch around but the dont even do their own work anyways
07-26-2008, 10:30 AM
#7
Melting Slicks
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to be honest i didnt use a torque wrench and never do use one i have done many projects over the years and only use one for engine related or transmision related stuff. never had any issues at all
but i think david farmer racing website has all the torque specs on it
i am an old farm boy so pretty much tighten it until you cant crank it down anymore. but you can feel on which bolts cant be cranked down really hard due to they are softer bolts and could turn off if you crank on them too much.
Let the flames begin from all the perfectionist who will bitch around but the dont even do their own work anyways
but i think david farmer racing website has all the torque specs on it
i am an old farm boy so pretty much tighten it until you cant crank it down anymore. but you can feel on which bolts cant be cranked down really hard due to they are softer bolts and could turn off if you crank on them too much.
Let the flames begin from all the perfectionist who will bitch around but the dont even do their own work anyways
07-26-2008, 12:35 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
i am an old farm boy so pretty much tighten it until you cant crank it down anymore. but you can feel on which bolts cant be cranked down really hard due to they are softer bolts and could turn off if you crank on them too much.
Let the flames begin from all the perfectionist who will bitch around but the dont even do their own work anyways
Let the flames begin from all the perfectionist who will bitch around but the dont even do their own work anyways
07-26-2008, 03:56 PM
#14
Premium Supporting Vendor
07-26-2008, 11:24 PM
#20
Le Mans Master
Gotta tell ya Derek you dont screw around. All you need is a good lift and a air compressor and your set.Anyway i dig the hands on rip it up program.Good job.