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[Z06] GM Dealer Hydrolocked my motor doing an Oil Change
10-16-2008, 10:31 PM
#21
Racer
Member Since: Jun 2006
Location: Airdrie Alberta
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Man, that really sucks! I'm a pretty even tempered guy but I don't know how well I would have held my composure.
I don't think it would have hydro locked, as stated previously it would have taken oil to enter the cylinders. What likely happened is he started it and ran it with no oil pressure to the main bearings, causing it to seize.
I really feel your pain!
I don't think it would have hydro locked, as stated previously it would have taken oil to enter the cylinders. What likely happened is he started it and ran it with no oil pressure to the main bearings, causing it to seize.
I really feel your pain!
10-16-2008, 10:35 PM
#22
Premium Supporting Vendor
Maybe I can clear a few things up and ease your mind.
Your engine is not hydrolocked. As somebody said, hydrolocking is when a fluid which cannot be compressed enters the combustion chamber. Oil can not get to the combustion chamber through the valve cover cap. There is always oil there. That is how the rocker arms and valve tips are lubricated. Oil in this area drains to the oil pan just like all of the rest of the oil in the engine.
If in fact the technician put 6.6 qts of oil in the engine (albiet through the rocker arm) your engine will still have enough oil under idling conditions as not to starve the engine of oil. The scavenge pump will pump oil to the tank and it would have to run much lower than 6.6qts to starve the engine. If you think about it, its only down 1.4qts from capacity.
I'm not sure about the cap on the valve cover, if it could break when attempting to take it off. I've never really messed with it. I would inspect the cap to see if that was actually the case. If in fact it did break, I would be willing to bet you could see pieces in the cylinder head and they could be removed.
What is still unclear, is why there was a massive amount of oil on the floor. Nothing you described gives any evidence of why this may have happened. This is the kind of thing that happens if you forget to put a drain plug back or a filter on. What is also unclear is why it will not turn over.
There is more to this story than is being revealed.
Your engine is not hydrolocked. As somebody said, hydrolocking is when a fluid which cannot be compressed enters the combustion chamber. Oil can not get to the combustion chamber through the valve cover cap. There is always oil there. That is how the rocker arms and valve tips are lubricated. Oil in this area drains to the oil pan just like all of the rest of the oil in the engine.
If in fact the technician put 6.6 qts of oil in the engine (albiet through the rocker arm) your engine will still have enough oil under idling conditions as not to starve the engine of oil. The scavenge pump will pump oil to the tank and it would have to run much lower than 6.6qts to starve the engine. If you think about it, its only down 1.4qts from capacity.
I'm not sure about the cap on the valve cover, if it could break when attempting to take it off. I've never really messed with it. I would inspect the cap to see if that was actually the case. If in fact it did break, I would be willing to bet you could see pieces in the cylinder head and they could be removed.
What is still unclear, is why there was a massive amount of oil on the floor. Nothing you described gives any evidence of why this may have happened. This is the kind of thing that happens if you forget to put a drain plug back or a filter on. What is also unclear is why it will not turn over.
There is more to this story than is being revealed.
10-16-2008, 10:52 PM
#23
Maybe I can clear a few things up and ease your mind.
Your engine is not hydrolocked. As somebody said, hydrolocking is when a fluid which cannot be compressed enters the combustion chamber. Oil can not get to the combustion chamber through the valve cover cap. There is always oil there. That is how the rocker arms and valve tips are lubricated. Oil in this area drains to the oil pan just like all of the rest of the oil in the engine.
If in fact the technician put 6.6 qts of oil in the engine (albiet through the rocker arm) your engine will still have enough oil under idling conditions as not to starve the engine of oil. The scavenge pump will pump oil to the tank and it would have to run much lower than 6.6qts to starve the engine. If you think about it, its only down 1.4qts from capacity.
I'm not sure about the cap on the valve cover, if it could break when attempting to take it off. I've never really messed with it. I would inspect the cap to see if that was actually the case. If in fact it did break, I would be willing to bet you could see pieces in the cylinder head and they could be removed.
What is still unclear, is why there was a massive amount of oil on the floor. Nothing you described gives any evidence of why this may have happened. This is the kind of thing that happens if you forget to put a drain plug back or a filter on. What is also unclear is why it will not turn over.
There is more to this story than is being revealed.
Your engine is not hydrolocked. As somebody said, hydrolocking is when a fluid which cannot be compressed enters the combustion chamber. Oil can not get to the combustion chamber through the valve cover cap. There is always oil there. That is how the rocker arms and valve tips are lubricated. Oil in this area drains to the oil pan just like all of the rest of the oil in the engine.
If in fact the technician put 6.6 qts of oil in the engine (albiet through the rocker arm) your engine will still have enough oil under idling conditions as not to starve the engine of oil. The scavenge pump will pump oil to the tank and it would have to run much lower than 6.6qts to starve the engine. If you think about it, its only down 1.4qts from capacity.
I'm not sure about the cap on the valve cover, if it could break when attempting to take it off. I've never really messed with it. I would inspect the cap to see if that was actually the case. If in fact it did break, I would be willing to bet you could see pieces in the cylinder head and they could be removed.
What is still unclear, is why there was a massive amount of oil on the floor. Nothing you described gives any evidence of why this may have happened. This is the kind of thing that happens if you forget to put a drain plug back or a filter on. What is also unclear is why it will not turn over.
There is more to this story than is being revealed.
Thanks for comming is to help. You guys do great work for the Corvette guys. So thanks again for your insight.
If you go to page 1 and read that we think that there was 16.5 qt's in total. 10 qt's in the tank as the tech stated he could only get 1.5 in the tank and 6.5 New oil pored in the valve cover making a total of old oil still in the tank making about 10 qt's and 6.5 new oil pored into the valve cover hole.
So this would answer my question of why there is old brown oil all over the motor and the dip stick shoting out of the tank. I would think the oil in the tank would be light brown clear but it was not, it was old oil..........
So if you could help us all out. If there were 6.5 qt's poored in the motor and 10 qt's in the tank what would happen and where would the oil go Sir?
Chris
10-16-2008, 11:00 PM
#25
Team Owner
I'm confused as well. You said they "hydrolocked the motor by starting it". Did the engine actually lock up and no longer able to turn over?
I don't see how they managed to get 6.5 quarts in the rocker cover. Maybe the oil all over the place was was overflow. If the engine hydrolocked, why is there oil all over the place - where did it come out of the engine? Like Jason said, there is more to this than meets the eye.
I don't see how they managed to get 6.5 quarts in the rocker cover. Maybe the oil all over the place was was overflow. If the engine hydrolocked, why is there oil all over the place - where did it come out of the engine? Like Jason said, there is more to this than meets the eye.
10-16-2008, 11:01 PM
#26
Premium Supporting Vendor
Thanks for comming is to help. You guys do great work for the Corvette guys. So thanks again for your insight.
If you go to page 1 and read that we think that there was 16.5 qt's in total. 10 qt's in the tank as the tech stated he could only get 1.5 in the tank and 6.5 New oil pored in the valve cover making a total of old oil still in the tank making about 10 qt's and 6.5 new oil pored into the valve cover hole.
So this would answer my question of why there is old brown oil all over the motor and the dip stick shoting out of the tank. I would think the oil in the tank would be light brown clear but it was not, it was old oil..........
So if you could help us all out. If there were 6.5 qt's poored in the motor and 10 qt's in the tank what would happen and where would the oil go Sir?
Chris
If you go to page 1 and read that we think that there was 16.5 qt's in total. 10 qt's in the tank as the tech stated he could only get 1.5 in the tank and 6.5 New oil pored in the valve cover making a total of old oil still in the tank making about 10 qt's and 6.5 new oil pored into the valve cover hole.
So this would answer my question of why there is old brown oil all over the motor and the dip stick shoting out of the tank. I would think the oil in the tank would be light brown clear but it was not, it was old oil..........
So if you could help us all out. If there were 6.5 qt's poored in the motor and 10 qt's in the tank what would happen and where would the oil go Sir?
Chris
I see #20 was posted as I was typing.
If there was 16.5qts in the system, a large portion of that is going to end up in the oil pan. The crankshaft bobweights are going to submerged in oil, but I would think that the engine would want to turn over.
Was all the oil then drained?
Was it then filled properly and attempted to start?
How much oil are we talking on the ground? Quarts?
If there was a lot of oil on the ground, where did it come from?
You said that it come out of the dipstick, but for pressure to build up in the dry sump tank to push the dipstick out, the oil pump needs to be pumping and hence the engine turning over, but you have said its hydrolocked. This is confusing.
10-16-2008, 11:07 PM
#27
Melting Slicks
Chris, sorry but I still don't see the hydrolock part of it. There is of course, during normal operation, alot of oil in the vave cover where they poured the oil in. Why then does this oil not wind up in the combustion chamber?
I'm not trying to be hard headed but I still don't understand how it would hydrolock. Anybody else, either way??
Again, I wish you good luck on the repair. I would be very upset myself.
I'm not trying to be hard headed but I still don't understand how it would hydrolock. Anybody else, either way??
Again, I wish you good luck on the repair. I would be very upset myself.
Maybe I can clear a few things up and ease your mind.
Your engine is not hydrolocked. As somebody said, hydrolocking is when a fluid which cannot be compressed enters the combustion chamber. Oil can not get to the combustion chamber through the valve cover cap. There is always oil there. That is how the rocker arms and valve tips are lubricated. Oil in this area drains to the oil pan just like all of the rest of the oil in the engine.
If in fact the technician put 6.6 qts of oil in the engine (albiet through the rocker arm) your engine will still have enough oil under idling conditions as not to starve the engine of oil. The scavenge pump will pump oil to the tank and it would have to run much lower than 6.6qts to starve the engine. If you think about it, its only down 1.4qts from capacity.
I'm not sure about the cap on the valve cover, if it could break when attempting to take it off. I've never really messed with it. I would inspect the cap to see if that was actually the case. If in fact it did break, I would be willing to bet you could see pieces in the cylinder head and they could be removed.
What is still unclear, is why there was a massive amount of oil on the floor. Nothing you described gives any evidence of why this may have happened. This is the kind of thing that happens if you forget to put a drain plug back or a filter on. What is also unclear is why it will not turn over.
There is more to this story than is being revealed.
Your engine is not hydrolocked. As somebody said, hydrolocking is when a fluid which cannot be compressed enters the combustion chamber. Oil can not get to the combustion chamber through the valve cover cap. There is always oil there. That is how the rocker arms and valve tips are lubricated. Oil in this area drains to the oil pan just like all of the rest of the oil in the engine.
If in fact the technician put 6.6 qts of oil in the engine (albiet through the rocker arm) your engine will still have enough oil under idling conditions as not to starve the engine of oil. The scavenge pump will pump oil to the tank and it would have to run much lower than 6.6qts to starve the engine. If you think about it, its only down 1.4qts from capacity.
I'm not sure about the cap on the valve cover, if it could break when attempting to take it off. I've never really messed with it. I would inspect the cap to see if that was actually the case. If in fact it did break, I would be willing to bet you could see pieces in the cylinder head and they could be removed.
What is still unclear, is why there was a massive amount of oil on the floor. Nothing you described gives any evidence of why this may have happened. This is the kind of thing that happens if you forget to put a drain plug back or a filter on. What is also unclear is why it will not turn over.
There is more to this story than is being revealed.
i think, THINK, that what may have happened is almost as a reverse hydrolock. where instead of the oil being in the combustion chamber (no way for it to get in there) it filled up from the bottom and filled in the pistons from underneath, and the scavenger pump may not have had enough volume flow to get enough out in time. kind of like filling a motor that takes 4 quarts with 12 quarts...
10-16-2008, 11:13 PM
#28
Premium Supporting Vendor
i think, THINK, that what may have happened is almost as a reverse hydrolock. where instead of the oil being in the combustion chamber (no way for it to get in there) it filled up from the bottom and filled in the pistons from underneath, and the scavenger pump may not have had enough volume flow to get enough out in time. kind of like filling a motor that takes 4 quarts with 12 quarts...
10-16-2008, 11:15 PM
#29
I see #20 was posted as I was typing.
If there was 16.5qts in the system, a large portion of that is going to end up in the oil pan. The crankshaft bobweights are going to submerged in oil, but I would think that the engine would want to turn over.
Was all the oil then drained?
Was it then filled properly and attempted to start?
How much oil are we talking on the ground? Quarts?
If there was a lot of oil on the ground, where did it come from?
You said that it come out of the dipstick, but for pressure to build up in the dry sump tank to push the dipstick out, the oil pump needs to be pumping and hence the engine turning over, but you have said its hydrolocked. This is confusing.
If there was 16.5qts in the system, a large portion of that is going to end up in the oil pan. The crankshaft bobweights are going to submerged in oil, but I would think that the engine would want to turn over.
Was all the oil then drained?
Was it then filled properly and attempted to start?
How much oil are we talking on the ground? Quarts?
If there was a lot of oil on the ground, where did it come from?
You said that it come out of the dipstick, but for pressure to build up in the dry sump tank to push the dipstick out, the oil pump needs to be pumping and hence the engine turning over, but you have said its hydrolocked. This is confusing.
So 1/2 hr goes by I walk back with the service manager and service writer. I have no idea what was done during my time away from the car. All I can add is when I went back to see what was going on the tech was like watch this your motor is not locked up. He continues to poor oil into the oil Tank. I have no Idea how many qt's but there were 8 empty Moble 1 containers in the box on the ground.
At this point he gets in the car and trys to start the car and it just clicks.
At this point I need to cool my jets and walk away. The service manager said your motor is hydrolocked, I'm sorry I don't know what to say other than the tech did not follow the right way to change the oil.
I had to go to my car to get some things and hour later because I had to get a rental car thay are paying for.
I saw that the spark plugs were pulled and oil on the ground, more so than befor.
I hope this clears up an questions you may have. BTW you and I have had many conversations in the past over the phone. I will PM you my phone number if you would like to give me a call.
Thanks for your time in the matter. I think we will all learn somthing from this. But I wish this on no one
Chris
Last edited by TFAST4U; 10-16-2008 at 11:32 PM.
10-16-2008, 11:23 PM
#30
Drifting
One other problem to consider is the scavenge side on the oil pump is trying to fill the oil tank which is full. Two places it can go. Out the dipstick hole after forcing the dipstick out of the rubber grommet and through the tank vent line into the intake bridge between the air filter and throttle body. Pull the air filter bridge rubber bellows from the throttle body and see how much oil is in the intake manifold. That would be the only way to ingest enough oil into a cylinder to "hydro lock".
If it were my car I would have the dealer (with a different tech) drain all oil from the sump and oil tank drain plugs. Pull the right valve cover to inspect for broken plastic pieces. Pull all eight spark plugs and crank the engine over while check for oil pumping out of and cylinder through the spark plug hole. Then run a compression test on all cylinders. Pull the sump pan and check for obvious damage to the rods. I doubt if you could hydro lock the engine by having the block and sump completely filled with oil. As one piston travels down into the block another is going up so the volume inside the block would not change. Oil in the sump could also be forced back into the top of the heads and valve covers through the oil drain holes in the head and into the cam valley between the cylinders with no damage.
If oil is ingested into a cylinder then that would cause hydro lock because as the piston travels up in the cylinder volume is reduced and oil is uncompressible That's when you have hydro lock that damages cranks and bearings.
And I think the dealer owes you a 10 year 200k mile extended warranty on the engine at no charge!
If it were my car I would have the dealer (with a different tech) drain all oil from the sump and oil tank drain plugs. Pull the right valve cover to inspect for broken plastic pieces. Pull all eight spark plugs and crank the engine over while check for oil pumping out of and cylinder through the spark plug hole. Then run a compression test on all cylinders. Pull the sump pan and check for obvious damage to the rods. I doubt if you could hydro lock the engine by having the block and sump completely filled with oil. As one piston travels down into the block another is going up so the volume inside the block would not change. Oil in the sump could also be forced back into the top of the heads and valve covers through the oil drain holes in the head and into the cam valley between the cylinders with no damage.
If oil is ingested into a cylinder then that would cause hydro lock because as the piston travels up in the cylinder volume is reduced and oil is uncompressible That's when you have hydro lock that damages cranks and bearings.
And I think the dealer owes you a 10 year 200k mile extended warranty on the engine at no charge!
10-16-2008, 11:36 PM
#31
Drifting
Hydrolocking can cause catastrophic damage if the engine is running.
From what I understand the tech tried to START the motor but its now locked up.
Only the starter motor is powering it and I dont think any damage can be done with that little power.
I think your engine needs to be completely drained of ALL fluids, cleaned and put back together. With new spark plugs and a fresh oil change, I think it will fire right up.
Just my opinion, I may be wrong.
From what I understand the tech tried to START the motor but its now locked up.
Only the starter motor is powering it and I dont think any damage can be done with that little power.
I think your engine needs to be completely drained of ALL fluids, cleaned and put back together. With new spark plugs and a fresh oil change, I think it will fire right up.
Just my opinion, I may be wrong.
10-16-2008, 11:41 PM
#32
One other problem to consider is the scavenge side on the oil pump is trying to fill the oil tank which is full. Two places it can go. Out the dipstick hole after forcing the dipstick out of the rubber grommet and through the tank vent line into the intake bridge between the air filter and throttle body. Pull the air filter bridge rubber bellows from the throttle body and see how much oil is in the intake manifold. That would be the only way to ingest enough oil into a cylinder to "hydro lock".
If it were my car I would have the dealer (with a different tech) drain all oil from the sump and oil tank drain plugs. Pull the right valve cover to inspect for broken plastic pieces. Pull all eight spark plugs and crank the engine over while check for oil pumping out of and cylinder through the spark plug hole. Then run a compression test on all cylinders. Pull the sump pan and check for obvious damage to the rods. I doubt if you could hydro lock the engine by having the block and sump completely filled with oil. As one piston travels down into the block another is going up so the volume inside the block would not change. Oil in the sump could also be forced back into the top of the heads and valve covers through the oil drain holes in the head and into the cam valley between the cylinders with no damage.
If oil is ingested into a cylinder then that would cause hydro lock because as the piston travels up in the cylinder volume is reduced and oil is uncompressible That's when you have hydro lock that damages cranks and bearings.
And I think the dealer owes you a 10 year 200k mile extended warranty on the engine at no charge!
If it were my car I would have the dealer (with a different tech) drain all oil from the sump and oil tank drain plugs. Pull the right valve cover to inspect for broken plastic pieces. Pull all eight spark plugs and crank the engine over while check for oil pumping out of and cylinder through the spark plug hole. Then run a compression test on all cylinders. Pull the sump pan and check for obvious damage to the rods. I doubt if you could hydro lock the engine by having the block and sump completely filled with oil. As one piston travels down into the block another is going up so the volume inside the block would not change. Oil in the sump could also be forced back into the top of the heads and valve covers through the oil drain holes in the head and into the cam valley between the cylinders with no damage.
If oil is ingested into a cylinder then that would cause hydro lock because as the piston travels up in the cylinder volume is reduced and oil is uncompressible That's when you have hydro lock that damages cranks and bearings.
And I think the dealer owes you a 10 year 200k mile extended warranty on the engine at no charge!
Thank you.
I agree with what you stated. Bottom line I'm not taking the car back unless there is a new motor. I stand behind that with conviction.
I came in for an oil change
Now I have a locked up motor that by the way was replaced just a year ago by GM because of a failed oil pump.
I left the dealer in a rental, non the less a Dodge Mini Van. I'm glad I got a white one and not the tan van. I think that would of just pushed me off the deep end.
Chris
10-16-2008, 11:47 PM
#33
I mean come on guys..........................it's just an oil change.
Well I'm off to bed. Have a long day ahead like most of you here. Good night and I will keep you all informed from here on out. I just want you all to know I have been in love with my C6 Z06 since the day I picked it up on March 17, 2006. I will tell ya I have had ups and downs with the car since day 1. But I dont care, I love this car more tha any car I have ever owned. So just keep things real here and know I went in for an oil change, and I walked out with a locked up motor, sad, and just knowing how long my Last motor replacment took because of a failed oil pump......................I will miss my car deeply, as I have a bond with it like no other.
I will post updates tomorrow.
Chris
Well I'm off to bed. Have a long day ahead like most of you here. Good night and I will keep you all informed from here on out. I just want you all to know I have been in love with my C6 Z06 since the day I picked it up on March 17, 2006. I will tell ya I have had ups and downs with the car since day 1. But I dont care, I love this car more tha any car I have ever owned. So just keep things real here and know I went in for an oil change, and I walked out with a locked up motor, sad, and just knowing how long my Last motor replacment took because of a failed oil pump......................I will miss my car deeply, as I have a bond with it like no other.
I will post updates tomorrow.
Chris
Last edited by TFAST4U; 10-16-2008 at 11:49 PM.
10-16-2008, 11:47 PM
#34
Premium Supporting Vendor
One other problem to consider is the scavenge side on the oil pump is trying to fill the oil tank which is full. Two places it can go. Out the dipstick hole after forcing the dipstick out of the rubber grommet and through the tank vent line into the intake bridge between the air filter and throttle body. Pull the air filter bridge rubber bellows from the throttle body and see how much oil is in the intake manifold. That would be the only way to ingest enough oil into a cylinder to "hydro lock".
If it were my car I would have the dealer (with a different tech) drain all oil from the sump and oil tank drain plugs. Pull the right valve cover to inspect for broken plastic pieces. Pull all eight spark plugs and crank the engine over while check for oil pumping out of and cylinder through the spark plug hole. Then run a compression test on all cylinders. Pull the sump pan and check for obvious damage to the rods. I doubt if you could hydro lock the engine by having the block and sump completely filled with oil. As one piston travels down into the block another is going up so the volume inside the block would not change. Oil in the sump could also be forced back into the top of the heads and valve covers through the oil drain holes in the head and into the cam valley between the cylinders with no damage.
If oil is ingested into a cylinder then that would cause hydro lock because as the piston travels up in the cylinder volume is reduced and oil is uncompressible That's when you have hydro lock that damages cranks and bearings.
And I think the dealer owes you a 10 year 200k mile extended warranty on the engine at no charge!
If it were my car I would have the dealer (with a different tech) drain all oil from the sump and oil tank drain plugs. Pull the right valve cover to inspect for broken plastic pieces. Pull all eight spark plugs and crank the engine over while check for oil pumping out of and cylinder through the spark plug hole. Then run a compression test on all cylinders. Pull the sump pan and check for obvious damage to the rods. I doubt if you could hydro lock the engine by having the block and sump completely filled with oil. As one piston travels down into the block another is going up so the volume inside the block would not change. Oil in the sump could also be forced back into the top of the heads and valve covers through the oil drain holes in the head and into the cam valley between the cylinders with no damage.
If oil is ingested into a cylinder then that would cause hydro lock because as the piston travels up in the cylinder volume is reduced and oil is uncompressible That's when you have hydro lock that damages cranks and bearings.
And I think the dealer owes you a 10 year 200k mile extended warranty on the engine at no charge!
Bingo.
If the tank is full the scavenge pump can't compress the oil going into the tank. This would stop the oil pump and thus the engine from turning.
Good advice. Drain all the oil, fill properly, inspect the filter and intake, and start the engine.
10-16-2008, 11:51 PM
#35
Premium Supporting Vendor
Hydrolocking can cause catastrophic damage if the engine is running.
From what I understand the tech tried to START the motor but its now locked up.
Only the starter motor is powering it and I dont think any damage can be done with that little power.
I think your engine needs to be completely drained of ALL fluids, cleaned and put back together. With new spark plugs and a fresh oil change, I think it will fire right up.
Just my opinion, I may be wrong.
From what I understand the tech tried to START the motor but its now locked up.
Only the starter motor is powering it and I dont think any damage can be done with that little power.
I think your engine needs to be completely drained of ALL fluids, cleaned and put back together. With new spark plugs and a fresh oil change, I think it will fire right up.
Just my opinion, I may be wrong.
10-17-2008, 12:00 AM
#36
Safety Car
One other problem to consider is the scavenge side on the oil pump is trying to fill the oil tank which is full. Two places it can go. Out the dipstick hole after forcing the dipstick out of the rubber grommet and through the tank vent line into the intake bridge between the air filter and throttle body. Pull the air filter bridge rubber bellows from the throttle body and see how much oil is in the intake manifold. That would be the only way to ingest enough oil into a cylinder to "hydro lock".
If it were my car I would have the dealer (with a different tech) drain all oil from the sump and oil tank drain plugs. Pull the right valve cover to inspect for broken plastic pieces. Pull all eight spark plugs and crank the engine over while check for oil pumping out of and cylinder through the spark plug hole. Then run a compression test on all cylinders. Pull the sump pan and check for obvious damage to the rods. I doubt if you could hydro lock the engine by having the block and sump completely filled with oil. As one piston travels down into the block another is going up so the volume inside the block would not change. Oil in the sump could also be forced back into the top of the heads and valve covers through the oil drain holes in the head and into the cam valley between the cylinders with no damage.
If oil is ingested into a cylinder then that would cause hydro lock because as the piston travels up in the cylinder volume is reduced and oil is uncompressible That's when you have hydro lock that damages cranks and bearings.
And I think the dealer owes you a 10 year 200k mile extended warranty on the engine at no charge!
If it were my car I would have the dealer (with a different tech) drain all oil from the sump and oil tank drain plugs. Pull the right valve cover to inspect for broken plastic pieces. Pull all eight spark plugs and crank the engine over while check for oil pumping out of and cylinder through the spark plug hole. Then run a compression test on all cylinders. Pull the sump pan and check for obvious damage to the rods. I doubt if you could hydro lock the engine by having the block and sump completely filled with oil. As one piston travels down into the block another is going up so the volume inside the block would not change. Oil in the sump could also be forced back into the top of the heads and valve covers through the oil drain holes in the head and into the cam valley between the cylinders with no damage.
If oil is ingested into a cylinder then that would cause hydro lock because as the piston travels up in the cylinder volume is reduced and oil is uncompressible That's when you have hydro lock that damages cranks and bearings.
And I think the dealer owes you a 10 year 200k mile extended warranty on the engine at no charge!
If the dry sump tank is full and there is oil in the pan where is all that extra oil going to go when the tech tried to start the motor? It will go two places. The dipstick in the sump tank will be forced out spewing oil out but more importantly, oil will be forced through the evac tubes from the tank into the intake and it wouldn't take much time or oil to hydro lock the motor.
Last edited by CanadaGrant; 10-17-2008 at 02:07 PM.
10-17-2008, 01:49 AM
#38
Melting Slicks
I'd be screaming - I give you credit - What I've heard - I hate to talk about hear-say - but this fits - but it has been validated a few times so I tend to believe it - GM has cut the amount of "MASTER Mech" in their maintenance bays - and have hired cheaper non-union "Barney the Bozo Mech" that are watched by MASTER Mechs - they also make them responsible for the Bozo's work and the MASTER Mech has to sign off on all the Bozos work - if that makes sense - making it worst the MASTER Mech can have up to 8 Bozos he has to watch 
So you can see how this kinds of issues come up 
Sorry to hear and hope it all works out in your favor 
