Dreamin

This is a fairly easy, though time-consuming do-it-yourself project... Plan on spending a full day if you work carefully and slowly. It’s a basic bolt-on project, though there is a little filing that needs to be done (5 minutes worth per corner), and the only challenging part is getting a good seal between the brake hard line and new SS brake line. And plan on getting brake fluid *everywhere*. Other than that, very straight-forward.
The Brembo instructions are good, but I changed the order of the steps to minimize brake fluid spillage.

My Review of the Brembo's is HERE

*** Standard disclaimers apply. I assume no responsibility for any damage. Please be careful - the consequences of a mistake or improper install could be disastrous ***

Pics below are from a 2007 Z06, and a 2007 Service Manual was used.

Tools
* 2 Bottles Brake Fluid Minimum – 3 Bottles Ideally
* Blue Loctite (#242)
* 11mm, 13mm, 17mm, & 5/8” Box-Wrenches
* 10mm Hex Socket
* 11mm, 13mm & 21mm Sockets
* Suitable 3/8” & 1/2" Wrenches
* 3/8” to 1/2” Adapter as needed
* Pliers / Metal Snips
* Large Flat Blade Screwdriver
* Round Metal File
* Empty Plastic Bottle
* Turkey Baster
* Hammer - if changing brake pads (from what’s shipped installed in the calipers)
* Small Nail Punch - if changing brake pads (from what’s shipped installed in the calipers)






Step 1) Raise Car; Remove Wheels; Release Parking Brake

FRONT BRAKES
Pictures are of Passenger Side Front

Step 2) Remove Caliper
Turn Steering wheel to give more clearance
Use 21mm Socket and Remove Two Bolts.
Slide Caliper off and place to the side, supported by something, so the brake line is not stressed.
Back Side of Caliper, top bolt in place, bottom bolt removed:



Step 3) Remove Rotor
Use Pliers / Metal Snips to cut Rotor Retaining Washer off
Pull rotor straight off


Rotor removed with caliper on the side supported by a 2x4:



Step 4) Install Brembo Caliper Mounting Bracket
Use 21mm Socket with Stock Bolts
Service Manual says to use new bolts; if you choose to reuse your existing bolts, clean the bolts and apply Blue Loctite.
Torque to 129 ft-lbs (175 Nm)
Torque Wrench attached to top bolt:



Step 5) Clean Rust off the Hub


Step 6) Install Rotor
It just slides on the hub


If you are changing pads from what’s shipped installed in the calipers, do it now.
See this DIY: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...-pad-swap.html

Step 7) Install Caliper
Use 10mm Hex socket and long Brembo Bolts. Thread these carefully… the threads on the bracket are easy to damage!
* Brembo Manual says that these are Self-Locking and do not require thread lock compound... so use it at your discretion *
Torque to 80 ft-lbs (115 Nm)



Step 8) Attach SS Brake Line to Caliper
Use 13mm socket
Torque to 15 ft-lbs (20 Nm) – I had to tighten a little more to get them leak-free.
The line should be attached just forward of vertical (15-30 degrees toward the front of the car)
Secure other end of SS Brake line out of the way for now.


*From Brembo Manual: Do not apply sealant or thread lock to any brake line connections *

Step 9) Remove Brake Hard Line Retaining Clip
Use Flat Blade Screwdriver and push up (vertically) on the Retaining Clip. It takes a moderate amount of force.
Screwdriver on Clip:


Clip half-way off:


Clip is reused; it fits on the Brembo supplied SS brake line perfectly:



Step 10) Disconnect Brake Hard Line from (flexible) Stock Brake Line
Pull assembly toward you a little, enough to get both box wrenches on your side of the mounting tab.
Use 5/8” box wrench on (outer) Flex Brake Line Nut. This nut does NOT move.
Use 13mm box wrench on (inner) Brake Hard Line Bolt. This ‘Bolt’ is threaded into the outer Nut. The threads for this nut face toward you. Unscrew this bolt.



Step 11) Cap Brake Hard Line
*Now you have to work fast, to minimize getting brake fluid everywhere*
Pull Hard line onto other side of mounting tab and out of the way.
Use Red plastic stopper from Brembo supplied SS brake lines, and insert over Hard Line.
Note: this slows, but does not stop brake fluid from leaking out.


Step 12) Enlarge Brake Line Mounting Tab
Use Metal File and make the ‘square’ hole in the Mounting Tab more circular
A minimal amount of filing is required. Maybe 5 minutes +/-.
Test Fit the Brembo supplied SS brake line as needed.





Step 13) Attached Brake Hard Line to Brembo supplied SS Brake Line
Use 17mm box wrench on (outer) Brembo-Supplied SS Brake Line Nut. This nut does NOT move.
Use 13mm box wrench on (inner) Brake Hard Line Bolt.
It should not take a lot of force to thread the brake lines together.
Torque to 13 lb ft (18Nm) - I had to tighten them very tight for them not to leak.


Step 14) Reinstall Brake Hard Line Retaining Clip
Use back of Flat Blade Screwdriver and lightly pound Retaining Clip back on.

That’s it for the Front!




REAR BRAKES
Pictures are of Driver Side Rear


Step 15) Install Rear Brakes
The procedure is identical to the front; Torque values are identical to the front. Summary Pictures:
Remove Caliper:


Remove Rotor; Install Brembo Caliper Mounting Bracket:


Disconnect Brake Hard Line;


File Brake Line Mounting Tab; Get Brake Fluid everywhere:


That’s it for the Rear!




FLUSH BRAKE FLUID

By the time I got all four corners installed… this is how much fluid I had left!
It didn’t cause any issues, just took a long time to get the system air free (2 full bottles).


Step 16) Flush Brake Fluid
Turkey Baster fluid from reservoir as needed
Use 11mm box wrench on bleed-screw
Use Brembo supplied tube
Use your own plastic bottle
Run at least 2 bottles through the system
Bleed order:
Right Rear Inner
Right Rear Outer
Left Front Inner
Left Front Outer
Left Rear Inner
Left Rear Outer
Right Front Inner
Right Front Outer



Make sure the person helping you bleed the brakes has something to do! (Because it takes a while to get the system air free and leak free)



Step 17) Verify that the brake line connections do not leak
Any leaks will become evident during the Brake flush/bleed.
The system should not leak… not even a little, tiny bit. There may be some ‘weeping’ from fluid caught between the threads… but have your helper press the brake pedal as hard as they can… no fluid should seep out anywhere.
If there is a leak, tighten the brake line connection. If it still leaks, open brake line connection, verify there is no debris caught in the threads and reconnect.
It took me quite a while to get one of the corners leak-free; no problems with the other three.


Step 18) Replace wheels, Lower Car


BED ROTORS / PADS
Follow the Brembo Supplied Instructions for this.


THAT’S IT
Now go enjoy your new Brembo Brakes… You’re going to love them!

dvandentop

very sweet write up again man, these types of threads should be added to the faq for future references!


thanks for taking the time to help fellow enthusiast!

also to see another DIY'er

2K7-Z06

Great write up!

MI_ZO6

Outstanding write-up! Immediately entered into my subscribed to thresds for future reference!

Thankyou

Short-Throw

Very considerate!

Dreamin, PM a mod to have it added!


Mike

captej

the best you can buy...you will love them,i do
ej

Z06_505

Nice write-up. Which size rotor did you get in the front?

jbsblownc5

Very Nice Write up!!

I've had Brembos on my C5 for a few years now, and they are one of the best mods I've done!


JB

gonzalezfj

There is one glaring error in your process. You need threadlock (Loctite Blue) in the adapter-to-spindle bolts and also the adapter-to-caliper bolts.

The reason why the GM instructions do not mention thread lock is because they recommend you use new bolts, which come with the threadlock already applied from the factory.

THIS IS A SERIOUS OVERSIGHT ON YOUR PART, and I urge you to correct it before you use the car.

Frank Gonzalez

Dreamin

Thanks for the info. I will correct this on my car.

* Procedure above corrected. *

RUN4CVR

These won't fit under OEM wheels right?

You need to upgrade to something like the CCW's full time?

EVILNESS

You were u at laguna seca on the 10th correct? I recognize the brembos with rim n tire package.. What were u running if u dont mind me asking...

R.

dvandentop

yep they will not work with any stock rims unfortunately it they are 15 inch

14's do i think with some spacers

nzk

i believe the 14" kit does fit under stock wheels.
thanks for the great write up!!

dvandentop

edited my post i think spacers are required for the 14 inch size

15 will not fit

Dreamin

That's the 15" / 380mm kit up front.

Dreamin

Yes, the 15" kit will not work with factory wheels.

The 14" kit will work under the factory wheels with a 4mm spacer.

Though you can run 19" repro's (with some work) up front.
Info here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...5-brembos.html

jvp

For what it's worth, I normally agree with Frank when he gives out advice on car stuff. But I don't, here. I've never, ever used any thread lock on any of my brakes, and I've been doing my own brakes since my C4. The thread lock is a "just in case" thing. If you put enough torque on the bolts, they aren't going to come free.

Further, putting thread lock on them makes them that much harder to take off in the future, when you have to swap rotors, et al. Personally, I wouldn't bother with it. But, it's completely up to you.

jas

805Z06

Nice write-up. These should come in handy next week.

Dreamin

The way i look at: If someone is installing the kit for track use, they will loosen and retorque the bolts often enough (i.e. when changing pads/rotors) - and should be in the habit of checking the torque of any at-risk bolts anyway... and they will use thread lock at their discretion.

If someone is installing the kit for street use and won't need to be back in there for a couple years...a little thread lock won't hurt.