[Z06] DIY - LPE High Capacity Oil Tank Installation
06-23-2009, 12:06 AM
#21
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks for the detailed "how to" post! I'll be doing my LPE tank install in the next two weeks. This will help me immensely. I am also installing the Aviaid tank baffle so I will add the unique info on the installation of that component to this thread.
This is just one of the mods that I have to finish before our event at Laguna Seca so I hope I get it all done in time.
John
This is just one of the mods that I have to finish before our event at Laguna Seca so I hope I get it all done in time.
John
06-23-2009, 10:43 AM
#24
Racer
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Being an operational test analyst on the F-22 and F-35 programs...I definitely agree with your approach.
I just hope you get all your testing and data analysis finished before I return to the track this fall so I can do the required mods before hitting the track. I'm waiting until fall because the Las Vegas summer events can bit the big one due to the heat.
MC
06-23-2009, 12:03 PM
#26
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Oil Tank Installation Steps
Step 1) On new tank: install bottom brackets, oil temp sensor, and oil line screen
(Push screen into bore from outside the tank until the locking tabs locate in the groove)
Yes, It really holds 3 more quarts
Step 2) Reassemble top and bottom of tank.
Tighten bolts/studs to 18 lb-ft
Step 3) Replace two oil seals on bottom oil tank lines
Oil Seals are supplied by LPE
Step 4) Reinstall new tank
With one person working at the top and one at the bottom, slide tank up into place. Take care not to pinch any of the wiring harnesses in the way.
Install oil lines. Tighten two bolts to 16 lb-ft
Install two bottom backet bolts. Tighten to 27 lb-ft
Install three top bolts. Tighten to 89 lb-in
Installed tank...plenty of clearance once it's in place!
Step 5) Refill tank with oil
Mine took almost 12 quarts... but i believe an oil change will take 11 quarts +/- as you won't drain all the residual oil in the tank and oil lines.
That's it... go out and enjoy your new LPE Oil Tank.
Step 1) On new tank: install bottom brackets, oil temp sensor, and oil line screen
(Push screen into bore from outside the tank until the locking tabs locate in the groove)
Yes, It really holds 3 more quarts
Step 2) Reassemble top and bottom of tank.
Tighten bolts/studs to 18 lb-ft
Step 3) Replace two oil seals on bottom oil tank lines
Oil Seals are supplied by LPE
Step 4) Reinstall new tank
With one person working at the top and one at the bottom, slide tank up into place. Take care not to pinch any of the wiring harnesses in the way.
Install oil lines. Tighten two bolts to 16 lb-ft
Install two bottom backet bolts. Tighten to 27 lb-ft
Install three top bolts. Tighten to 89 lb-in
Installed tank...plenty of clearance once it's in place!
Step 5) Refill tank with oil
Mine took almost 12 quarts... but i believe an oil change will take 11 quarts +/- as you won't drain all the residual oil in the tank and oil lines.
That's it... go out and enjoy your new LPE Oil Tank.
This is a GREAT mod. I installed one of these last year and it really helped in oil temp reduction. Good post!!
06-23-2009, 06:39 PM
#28
Team Owner
As a side note. I do about 400 miles a week in my car. Mostly DD miles with oil under 150*. The oil life goes down several percent a week. But I can do a full track day and the monitor will only go down 1-2 %
DH
06-23-2009, 09:59 PM
#30
Safety Car
Member Since: Dec 2006
Location: Dalllas/Ft Worth Area TX
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Just an observation!
Just an observation, if there was more surface area for the air bubbles to boil off that rise to the surface to gas off, the less bubbles in the oil that is recycled. The area of the "normal" level at the dipstick should have the greatest oil/air surface area. The oil/air surface area is very critical. Does the new LPE modified tank bottom accomplish this by increasing this air surface area? Of course, the increased amount of oil gives more time for air bubbles to burn off with the increased surface area. My impression is that the STOCK tank diameter is at this very mimimal critical surface area limit. If a 50 weight oil or so is used, it is just going to slow down the boiling off of the air bubbles, that is another reason why this surface area is so critical. Anything to help keep the oil in the pan from shiftiing (baffles) will help reduce the bubbles but will not totally elimiminate them as long as the scavenger pump can pump more than the supply pump; therefore, the balancing of the pumps, air surface area, orfices, pressure, etc. is so crititcal. I feel that GM has not really fully thought out this process and has supplied the bare necessities for every day driving, NOT racing. I think this point is self evident because of engine failures. Just my thoughts. 
Last edited by 2006c6keller; 06-24-2009 at 12:42 AM.
06-24-2009, 12:58 AM
#31
Pro
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Hey, I know, put that hammer down!
I have been installing my rollbar and it has been a PITA. When I'm done with that I'll be using your instructions to do the LPE tank and Aviaid baffle install. I don't think I'll have time to install the PFADT coilovers, sways, and bushings.
John
I have been installing my rollbar and it has been a PITA. When I'm done with that I'll be using your instructions to do the LPE tank and Aviaid baffle install. I don't think I'll have time to install the PFADT coilovers, sways, and bushings.
John
06-24-2009, 01:02 AM
#32
Le Mans Master
06-24-2009, 01:22 AM
#33
Safety Car
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Luck out?
I also saw this posted on their website. What is their theory behind this statement, why don't they explain the reasoning, is it because they really don't know? They tried something and luckily it worked. Did they luck out?
Last edited by 2006c6keller; 06-24-2009 at 02:03 AM.
06-24-2009, 10:30 AM
#34
Former Vendor
Street use
It isn't that we don't recommend it for street use it is that it isn't of any real benefit unless you plan to use your car on a road racing track so you would be paying for the oil tank and the added oil without any real need for it. The added oil would also make the engine take longer to get the oil up to operating temperature.
06-24-2009, 11:25 AM
#35
Melting Slicks
It isn't that we don't recommend it for street use it is that it isn't of any real benefit unless you plan to use your car on a road racing track so you would be paying for the oil tank and the added oil without any real need for it. The added oil would also make the engine take longer to get the oil up to operating temperature.
Hi Jason
I have been waiting for a reply about the difference in the 09 OEM oil tank and previous models with respect to the internal baffle system.
Ryan had suggested that there was a difference. Apparantly you dont think there is. Or maybe it was vice versa............ anyway have you been able to determine anything ..........
thanks
bob
06-24-2009, 01:07 PM
#36
Former Vendor
2009 tank
Bob,
The lower 2009 tank is identical on the inside to the 2006-2008 tank. The only change is the hole for the oil drain/side tank attachment.
If you felt Ryan was suggesting a difference, he did not mean to give you that impression. Ryan was not aware if a difference did or did not exist.
We were fairly certain they were the same but we wanted to be 100% certain before saying so publicly.
The lower 2009 tank is identical on the inside to the 2006-2008 tank. The only change is the hole for the oil drain/side tank attachment.
If you felt Ryan was suggesting a difference, he did not mean to give you that impression. Ryan was not aware if a difference did or did not exist.
We were fairly certain they were the same but we wanted to be 100% certain before saying so publicly.
Hi Jason
I have been waiting for a reply about the difference in the 09 OEM oil tank and previous models with respect to the internal baffle system.
Ryan had suggested that there was a difference. Apparantly you dont think there is. Or maybe it was vice versa............ anyway have you been able to determine anything ..........
thanks
bob
I have been waiting for a reply about the difference in the 09 OEM oil tank and previous models with respect to the internal baffle system.
Ryan had suggested that there was a difference. Apparantly you dont think there is. Or maybe it was vice versa............ anyway have you been able to determine anything ..........
thanks
bob
06-24-2009, 01:50 PM
#38
Team Owner
It isn't that we don't recommend it for street use it is that it isn't of any real benefit unless you plan to use your car on a road racing track so you would be paying for the oil tank and the added oil without any real need for it. The added oil would also make the engine take longer to get the oil up to operating temperature.
I am glad someone from LPE is addressing this thread. I am seriously considering your tank.
Can you give us any info on testing you have done. We know Dreamin will shortly be giving us his data.
Here are some questions. I'm sure others can add more:
1.What do you think of the of Arid tank insert
2.Do you think your tank alone is sufficient for a stock C6Z06 with just 3.R-compound tires
4.Will you consider a group discount buy
DH
06-24-2009, 03:55 PM
#39
Le Mans Master
It isn't that we don't recommend it for street use it is that it isn't of any real benefit unless you plan to use your car on a road racing track so you would be paying for the oil tank and the added oil without any real need for it. The added oil would also make the engine take longer to get the oil up to operating temperature.
06-24-2009, 05:19 PM
#40
Le Mans Master
If you are going to take your car to a road course on race tires and run the car hard enough with an after market radiator and oil cooler to get the oil temps in the 250-270 degre range you need to do more than just add a little oil in the dry sump tank. If you are just driving around, no big deal.
Jim
Jim