Geared

Gurus,

I bought my car preowned with 9,000 miles. Im unsure as to what sort of clutch fluid is in the car - im assuming its factory - which makes it dot3...correct?

After reading Rangers clutch care guide...Im going to try to clean the fluid doing his syringe/pump/refill technique.

My questions are:
Are mixing clutch fluids bad? ie will putting a different brand into the reservoir to mix with the factory dot3 be harmful?

Should I put dot 3 or dot 4? What brand do you recommend for street use?

Will mixing dot 3 (factory fluid I think is dot 3) and the recommended dot 4 be harmful or hinder performance of the clutch?

Is there anything I need to be careful of? Or do I just syringe, and refill / pump clutch and repeat?

Thanks.

jb

JoesC5

I use the Prestone DOT 4 from Walmart and also a syringe that I found in the auto section where they carry items for 2 cycles. I tried a turkey baster once, but the brake fluid caused the plastic to crack and leak. Don't use a turkey baster.

Brake fluid will strip the paint of your car. I put down a towel on my fender, then a plastic sheet(trash bag) and then another towel on top. I also stuff rags all around the brake reservoir in case I do dripple. Minimize the time you have the cap off both the reservoir and the can of fluid.

blacksmoke

You must not have read the whole thread.

Use only DOT4 and avoid Valvoline,prestone is the best bang and most available.

Use the right fluid,you understand the procedure well just use FULL in and out foot pumps to fully get to as much dust as possible.

MitchAlsup

Dot 3, Dot 4, and Dot 5.1 are all compatible glycol fluids. Dot 5 is INCOMPATIBLE silicone--do not use.

Use Dot 4. I use ATE SuperBlue/Gold, but see table ::
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...mparison.shtml

There are a number of good fluids. Choose a Dot 4 from the list with a high wet boiling point that is convienently available.

When unsure of the age, or type of fluid, change the fluid completely.

Keep the fluid far from the paint, or protect the paint, or both.

1badtantrum

Disclaimer: Not a guru! The 'sticky' Ranger thread is clear about DOT 4. As a few above have posted use DOT4. The new fluid will be mixed with the DOT3 fluid and the properties will be lessened 'dumbed down' to the properties of DOT3 fluid unless you do a complete bleed of the fluid.
I actually did this on my new 2009 Z06 that I picked up ~month ago. After scanning the forums and checking my clutch fluid, the fluid was like coffee with 35 miles on it. So I changed the fluid as recommended (syringe reservoir) filled replaced cap and pumped clutch thru full travel 30 times (as shown in video). It was very clear (actually slightly yellow with Motul RBF). I drove the car to work the next day which is a total of about 12 miles with 12 stops round trip. When I got home I checked the fluids and the clutch fluid was about as dirty (coffee colored) as it was before. It doesn't seem to 'clean' or flush completely through the system when just pushing the clutch without the car moving...I have since flushed it after driving about 6 times and the fluid is much cleaner but continues to get a little dirty...I didn't seem like this was anticipated in the thread but a more thorough way of completely flushing (though not as easy) is to bleed the clutch fluid to completely flush the fluid through the system. I may try the bleeding method but at this point it seems to be working its way clean through multiple reservoir flush's after driving

logan1080

How big of a deal is it for the dealer to change clutch fluid?

Bill Dearborn

The first question is: Are you having a problem? Most people do not have a problem with the clutch fluid. I owned two C5s over a period of 12 years and never had a problem with the clutch fluid on either car. I now own an 08Z that I picked up with 13.4K miles on it and have not had any problems with the clutch. I do lots of track days with hundreds of high rpm up and down shifts per day. I have never changed the clutch fluid on any of those cars and have never had a single problem with the clutch pedal sticking to the floor or the clutch not permitting me to shift in close to 13 years.

Bill

Stage Runner

All good advice, you will probably be doing a lot of drain, fill, pump-drain, fill, pump- again and again to get it clean. Just make sure every time you fill, make sure resivoir cap is put back on before pumping clutch, otherwise you will have your very own DOT 4 Old Faithful and a lot of four letter words to enhance the experience........

SR

Geared

Thanks guys....How extensive of a job is it to bleed the clutch to fully flush the reservoir?

JB

Bill Dearborn

The bleeder is above the exhaust. The dealer will use the proper method to bleed the fluid. That means removing the exhaust and the tunnel plate.

Here is the factory recommended procedure so you can estimate how much labor the dealer tech will charge.

Hydraulic Clutch Bleeding
Notice: DO NOT use fluid which has been bled from a hydraulic clutch system, in order to fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir, due to the possibility that the fluid may be aerated, have too much moisture content, or be contaminated and may cause system or vehicle damage.
Bleeding the hydraulic clutch system is necessary whenever the level of fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the master cylinder.

1. Clean all dirt and debris from the clutch master cylinder cap to ensure that no foreign substances will enter the system.
2. Remove the clutch master cylinder reservoir cap with diaphragm.
3. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with clutch hydraulic fluid. Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers .
4. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .
5. Remove the catalytic converters. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement - Left Side and Catalytic Converter Replacement - Right Side .
6. Remove the floor panel tunnel reinforcement. Refer to Floor Panel Tunnel Panel Reinforcement Replacement .
7. Have an assistant depress the clutch pedal fully and hold.
8. Loosen the bleeder screw on the clutch actuator cylinder to purge air.
9. Tighten the bleeder screw.
10. Release the clutch pedal.
11. Repeat steps 7-10 until all air is completely evacuated.Check and refill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with clutch hydraulic fluid as necessary in order to prevent air from being drawn through the clutch master cylinder. Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers .
12. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with clutch hydraulic fluid. Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers .
13. Install the floor panel tunnel reinforcement. Refer to Floor Panel Tunnel Panel Reinforcement Replacement .
14. Install the catalytic converters. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement - Left Side and Catalytic Converter Replacement - Right Side .
15. Lower the vehicle.

Bill

logan1080

Sounds like a bit of work, I will just wait until I have issues. May never have issues.

3LZZ06

This is sage advice...I was thinking of posting this very thought but I said nawwww!!! Good one SR...

You will have a big mess if you forget this step...

Fartpipe

Now you guys tell me LOL!!!! I was used to my C5. First time I did this when i got my 2008Z with 20k miles was changed the fluid resevoir. Hopped in the car to pump it a bit to get it circulated. WOOOSH SHOT RIGHT ON THE WINDSHIELD AN SCARED THE CRAP out of me!!!!! LOL

I personally use a boogy sucker $1.99 from walmart or baby store. It reaches to the bottom, doesnt let the fluid go back out and is small and easy to keep with in the car. I highly recommend this over the syring etc.

gmccreary

I like the Bill method. If it ain't broke.........

idaband

does the diaphragm have to be in while pumping too?

ByByBMW

I would say duh but maybe this is a serious question? So, yes, the diaphragm has to be in also.

AND, IBTL, not supposed to dig up old posts per forum rules. A mod will be along shortly to close the thread.

idaband

which "rule" does this apply to? I'm always confused. If its a good conversation whats the harm in adding to it. Its still on topic? I feel like we get too many duplicates on the forum and its better to search for the conversation and add to it.

Anyways... sorry for the "duh" question. Just figured if i have to do the process 7 times over it would be easier just to put only the cap on/off.

Thank you for your reply Cheers

(lets hope my clutch doesn't stick anymore )

ByByBMW

I wouldn't worry to much, I'm sure I've broken it before also. I think the limit is 6 months, but I don't know the reason for it.

And good luck with your clutch.