[Z06] buying a "trac car" for the street
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
buying a "track car" for the street
there is a 06 z06 with 8000 miles i could buy for 48k.
it has a roll bar, stoptech brakes, springs and shocks, a seat and sway bars.
i can get a 15000 miles 07 or a 25000 miles 08 for 50k. a 25000 miles 06 is 39k.
this would be for agressive driving on the street. the question is, will that car be done for because tracked? you cant do more that drive it, right? and with that mileage its actually like new. (i have no idea at this point, if the guides have been addressed.)
what do you think?
it has a roll bar, stoptech brakes, springs and shocks, a seat and sway bars.
i can get a 15000 miles 07 or a 25000 miles 08 for 50k. a 25000 miles 06 is 39k.
this would be for agressive driving on the street. the question is, will that car be done for because tracked? you cant do more that drive it, right? and with that mileage its actually like new. (i have no idea at this point, if the guides have been addressed.)
what do you think?
Last edited by romandian; 05-02-2017 at 04:24 PM.
#2
Le Mans Master
there is a 06 z06 with 8000 miles i could buy for 48k.
it has a roll bar, stoptech brakes, springs and shocks, a seat and sway bars.
i can get a 15000 miles 07 or a 25000 miles 08 for 50k. a 25000 miles 06 is 39k.
this would be for agressive driving on the street. the question is, will that car be done for because tracked? you cant do more that drive it, right? and with that mileage its actually like new. (i have no idea at this point, if the guides have been addressed.)
what do you think?
it has a roll bar, stoptech brakes, springs and shocks, a seat and sway bars.
i can get a 15000 miles 07 or a 25000 miles 08 for 50k. a 25000 miles 06 is 39k.
this would be for agressive driving on the street. the question is, will that car be done for because tracked? you cant do more that drive it, right? and with that mileage its actually like new. (i have no idea at this point, if the guides have been addressed.)
what do you think?
I think that (IF you want a RACE or TRACK car) you should contact one of the premier RACE shops, like Phoenix, and buy a properly set-up RACE car, with a cage (YES, this means that it cannot be legally driven on the street in most states). Buy a "winning car" if you can afford it, and be sure that you get the 'set-up book" for each track that it has run at. This is an invaluable piece of gear, and is (mostly) what you are paying for. WHY? Because your budget will then be used for track time, and not for screwing around trying to dial in your race car so that you can enjoy it on the track.
#3
Drifting
What I think.......................
I think that (IF you want a RACE or TRACK car) you should contact one of the premier RACE shops, like Phoenix, and buy a properly set-up RACE car, with a cage (YES, this means that it cannot be legally driven on the street in most states). Buy a "winning car" if you can afford it, and be sure that you get the 'set-up book" for each track that it has run at. This is an invaluable piece of gear, and is (mostly) what you are paying for. WHY? Because your budget will then be used for track time, and not for screwing around trying to dial in your race car so that you can enjoy it on the track.
I think that (IF you want a RACE or TRACK car) you should contact one of the premier RACE shops, like Phoenix, and buy a properly set-up RACE car, with a cage (YES, this means that it cannot be legally driven on the street in most states). Buy a "winning car" if you can afford it, and be sure that you get the 'set-up book" for each track that it has run at. This is an invaluable piece of gear, and is (mostly) what you are paying for. WHY? Because your budget will then be used for track time, and not for screwing around trying to dial in your race car so that you can enjoy it on the track.
I'd opt for the 08 myself.
#4
Race Director
It doesn't sound like you want to track the car. If so, I'd stay away from the one that has been tracked. There's no way to evaluate what kind of wear or abuse it has been through. All it takes is a mechanical over rev or two to set you up for future engine failure. Does it have an oversized sump tank to help with bearing starvation under sustained lateral Gs? Brake parts are disposable and easily replaced, so that's not a big deal. Trans and clutch could be used pretty hard....or not. All I'm saying is that track use will wear a car faster than almost any kind of street use.
I'd settle on the best maintained, most lightly used car, make sure the heads have been properly gone through- or will be by you. Then go out and enjoy! Good luck.
I'd settle on the best maintained, most lightly used car, make sure the heads have been properly gone through- or will be by you. Then go out and enjoy! Good luck.
#6
Those prices are WAY out of line for a car that has been tracked...don't care how much $$ in mods they have.
If all you are doing is aggressive street driving, you likely won't exceed the capabilities of a factory car....so why allocate your money to a car that has most likely been driven hard and has a bunch of mods you don't need?
For 50k you could get a bone stock 2012-2013 Fully loaded car with under 15k Miles that will have much more useful life to it before you have to start dumping money into repairs.
*EDIT*....just saw you were in Switzerland...not sure if you are talking prices in USA or over there!!
If all you are doing is aggressive street driving, you likely won't exceed the capabilities of a factory car....so why allocate your money to a car that has most likely been driven hard and has a bunch of mods you don't need?
For 50k you could get a bone stock 2012-2013 Fully loaded car with under 15k Miles that will have much more useful life to it before you have to start dumping money into repairs.
*EDIT*....just saw you were in Switzerland...not sure if you are talking prices in USA or over there!!
Last edited by Paranoid; 05-02-2017 at 10:19 PM.
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
yes, swiss prices, they are what they are. (1$ = 1sfr btw.)
the car apparently has not realy been raced, i was wondering about that, because we dont have drag racing or circle racing here, just slaloms and some hillclimbs. the guy drove it on the street and did some club racing with it.
he made it clear that the price was not negotiable, so i will forget about it. ill be better off getting an ls2 and putting a blower on it, like i did with my c5.
the car apparently has not realy been raced, i was wondering about that, because we dont have drag racing or circle racing here, just slaloms and some hillclimbs. the guy drove it on the street and did some club racing with it.
he made it clear that the price was not negotiable, so i will forget about it. ill be better off getting an ls2 and putting a blower on it, like i did with my c5.
Last edited by romandian; 05-06-2017 at 03:54 AM.
#8
German here, why jump away from an LS7 (Z06) in general? For that budget, you could get a closer to stock one in amazing condition in Swizerland or Germany, which in my opinion is more than enougth to drive on any street. I'd only buy a car for the track if I'd mostly use it on the track. Heck, my Z is more than enougth close to stock as it is now for the Hockenheimring/Nordschleife, at least for my abilities.
#10
CCRP (Cool Chevy Raceparts) Graz did mine. He send me newly overhauled heads, I installed them myself, then send my old heads back. I'm really happy, he was very helpful on the phone, gave me some very important Tipps so I could do it well. Also quality-wise I'm really happy. He also has a very good reputation.
#12
I've had very good luck with a retired race car. This was built and raced by Bobby Archer's wearing #32. It's got over 40 victories in various classes. Like the car you're considering it does not have a lot of miles (under 13K currently). One thing this car had going for it was the fact that Archer sold it to a physician (along with driving instruction, track support and maintenance). Dr. Huston did not skimp, if the car needed it, it got it. Engine was "freshened" just before my wife bought it.
I removed the side bars from the cage because it was a long process to get in and out with the full cage. The seats have been lowered so there is a fair amount of space between skulls and the bars. That can be a serious issue for cages on the street. Without a helmet a cage be be dangerous if your head is too close to it.
I removed the side bars from the cage because it was a long process to get in and out with the full cage. The seats have been lowered so there is a fair amount of space between skulls and the bars. That can be a serious issue for cages on the street. Without a helmet a cage be be dangerous if your head is too close to it.