0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

In stop and go traffic, remember there is very little air flow going through it so you need to make sure the fan settings have been set to come on sooner. This combined with a larger unit will help.

If the car is completely stopped and no movement and the air the fan is bringing through it is 100+ degree's it is hard to get a big HP car to cool down. It would not be out of the question to see it run 220-230 in traffic on a hot summer day in Texas on some of the bigger HP cars. Once it was moving drop to 170-180.

BADZ

Anthony,

What setting would you set a high hp SC car and at what %? I have the upgraded rad.

I was in mine on Sun. and it's was like mid 90's in Houston and my temps were hanging around 210-220 but never once did I loose AC.

Vented hood soon to come (hi-tech hood)

C2C6Z06

This is exactly what my 08Z will do...Tuned for fans coming on sooner and a 160 T-stat. Still, the A/C will cut out when the coolant hits 230 in standing (or near standing) traffic. Once moving, even at 20mph, the temps drop quickly...F'N LA traffic

NORTY

You mean to tell us that a 160 T-stat is no more effective than the stock 186 T-stat is when temps are 200F? Uh-oh, you've discovered the big lie...

LEAVINU

Honestly, I dont mind 220 coolant temps in 100deg weather with a H/C car; its just reality.

What I'd like to know is how in the world can I keep my A/C from turning off? Sweating my a$$ off in traffic in 100deg weather is no fun.

Please someone tell me the answer to the a/c shutoff challenges many seem to be facing.

j4three

See this recent thread in the FI section for an explanation and solution

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-f...blows-hot.html

Whis9

I know, I know old thread

What are you guys running coolant wise?

Antifreeze, water with additive , antifreeze with additive?

Thanks

Unreal

First step is to make sure it isn't overfilled. If there is too much ac coolant in it, the pressure switch that shuts it off trips very easy. A lot of factory cars were overfilled. very common on vettes.

After that, upgrading radiator/fan typically solves that.

carpe dm

I think it is effective in cars that run straight water, rather than a coolant mix. With a normal coolant mix, I find NO temp reduction.

olddragger

if you are running straight water then you sure don't want coolant temps of 230!
For those that change the percentages of the normal coolant and run ---for example--a 70/30 mix. Keep in mind that you have changed the coolants ability to avoid nucleate boiling.
Adequate cooling of the metals surface can get a little technical and unless you know what you are doing--IMHO run the regular coolant.

James Hauser

I have a 2008 with headers and also a electric water pump in stop and go traffic my tempe will get up to 220 but very rare that they do if car is completely stopped the tempe will never get above 194. when I had the old water pump when car was stopped the temp would get as high as 230 sometimes and while moving with old pump it stayed around 220 with the electrical it stays between 180 and 190. I am still looking for more ways to get heat out of the engine bay area and have been thinking about the hood also.

KurtsZ06

Water wetter is very effective, I use it in my big block C2 along with my Z06. It stabilized temps in my Z to 190, irregardless of ambient temps. In my C2, sitting in traffic was a sure fire recipe for the expansion tank to start releasing coolant. With no other changes, it now holds coolant without any purges.
water wetter is a cheap way to address overtemps. Try it first, long before you spend over a thousand for hoods, fans, etc.

rabrooks

I added the 2014 camaro hood vent to my 09 z. and it helped. Looked good too. I had headers and I pulled them and wrapped them with exhaust wrap. Overall change was very positive.