SLOWEST Z

when driving on traffic on a 110 degree F day the oil temp reaches 210-215 degrees F and the coolant temp is 230-235 degrees F.

when driving on the free way it is okay, oil temp is 188 and coolant is 203.

i thought about installing a vented hood if it will help extracting the heat from the engine bay. anyone has installed a vented hood? does it help reducing the oil/coolant temps on stop/go traffic?

how effective installing a vented hood would be? shall i go for it or just save the money for a dewitts radiator and dual fan upgrade?

car is H/C Z06 with 160 T-stat.

Mjolitor 68

the vented hood HAS to help bcus heat rises & will thus exit hood & prevent heat soak

On my Z I have the vented hood as well as a larger rad & oil coolers

Headers seem to increase under hood temp but if you wrap or coat them that should drop the temp

GMuffley

What he said.

HNK

Keep your stock fans, Dewitts would be a good upgrade, the hood would be a great one as well. It will help in stop and go traffic as heat will find its way out much easier and while on the highway your temp would go around the 180s to low 90s. I live where the avg temp in the summer is excess of 110 and while cruising the temp is in the range i stated above, i dont have vented hood, but if i plan to drive it in traffic i would definitely go to vented.

silver ls2

Have you tried 2 cans of waterwetter?

SLOWEST Z

i don't know how good using waterwetter is. if you have experience with water wetter please let us know.

HNK

. @ 110F in traffic with AC on you need the hot air to leave that closed area, so the hood will do that. the more HP you have the more heat you are going to build, so the Dewitt will be a welcomed addition along side the water wetter. I gather your fans are dialed in properly.
I just worry about the water draining over the motor when you wash it.

danbo56

1. I have a LGM vented hood. I got it for the track to vent heat (and mabye some air pressure). It seems to help, exactly how much I'm not sure. It has gutters to help keep any dripping water away from the motor...esp with the engine covers off.
2. It looks very cool. If that counts

Dicecal

I replaced my stock radiator on my Z06 with a Dewitt's, and it made no difference in the temps during stop and go traffic in the hot summer months in Phoenix. I believe there is just not enough air flowing through the radiator in traffic. I looked at adding the Dewitt's C6 Dual fan upgrade, but basically all it is; is just a dual Spal fan with brackets fabricated by Dewitt's. All they supply is a generic Spal wiring diagram. So like a previous poster said....not plug and play and you will have to splice into the factory wiring. Highway driving and on the track, the radiator does make a difference. And yes, I do have my fan programmed to come on sooner than the OEM program.

0Randy@DRM

What are your fans coming on at?

Water wetter is good stuff but will not change fan settings, t-stat settings or fix problems.

Most stock cars will run that hot sitting around in traffic.

Randy

SLOWEST Z

Randy, i have a 160 degree T-stat.


LG radiator
anyone using LG motorsports radiator? i heard the LG radiator with stock fan is as good as a Dewitts with dual fan upgrae

0Randy@DRM

With the stock fan settings the car's temps will climb until the fans kick on. You can have a 100 degree t-stat and it will do the same thing. You can have a super fan setup, vented hood, huge radiator, and once you get trapped in traffic the temps will climb and climb until the fans kick in and cool it down.


Randy

Bill Dearborn

Actually you don't have a cooling problem. Those temps are nominal and perfectly OK. They reach 230 to 235 because the fan doesn't start until coolant temp reaches 204 degrees and doesn't reach high speed until coolant temp hits 235. Your oil temps are near perfect.

Here is a description of how it works:
Cooling Fan Control - Variable Speed Single Fan System

The engine cooling fan is a variable speed fan. The engine control module (ECM) controls the fan speed by sending a pulse width modulated signal to the cooling fan control module. The cooling fan control module varies the voltage drop across the cooling fan motor in relation to the pulse width modulated signal.
Cooling fan speed is effected by many different conditions and can be adjusted from 10 percent to 90 percent duty cycle (PWM), 90 percent is considered high speed fan. When multiple cooling fan speed requests are received the ECM uses the highest cooling fan speed of all the requests. The ECM commands the cooling fan ON under the following conditions:
•
Cooling fan duty cycle starts when engine coolant temperature reaches approximately 95°C (204°F) and reaches high speed at temperatures above 113°C (235°F).


•
Cooling fan duty cycle starts when A/C pressure reaches approximately 1100 kPa (160 psi) and reaches high speed at A/C pressures above 2480 kPa (360 psi).


•
At engine oil temperatures above approximately 150°C (302°F) the cooling fan duty cycle will be commanded to high speed.


•
At transmission oil temperatures above approximately 132°C (270°F) the cooling fan duty cycle will be commanded to high speed.


•
After the vehicle is shut OFF if the engine coolant temperature at key-off is greater than 113°C (235°F) or the A/C pressure is greater than 1720 kPa (249 psi) the cooling fan duty cycle is set to 50 percent, low speed. If the coolant temperature drops below 110°C (230°F) and the A/C pressure drops below 1660 kPa (241 psi) the fan will shut OFF. The fans will automatically shut OFF after 2 min. regardless of coolant temperature


You don't need a larger radiator. You don't have a cooling capacity issue as the temps drop at highway speeds.

Cooling capacity becomes an issue when running at WOT for 30 minutes or more and the coolant temps reach 230 with oil temps around 300. That is when a larger radiator will help. If you want your traffic temps to drop then you should reprogram the fan to come on at a lower temp.

Bill

SLOWEST Z

Randy,
i have the car tuned, but how can i know my fan settings? my tunder should know that, right?

0Randy@DRM

Your tuner has complete control over the fan settings. Get with him and see if that helps.
Just making sure you don't spend a ton on mods and get the same result
Randy

HNK

bill

As long as the car moves and gets a bit of air, lets say 30 mph then things are ok, but when you are stuck in a serious traffic jam at those temps, well no matter how high the fans are set they wont cool enough. I was stuck in a jam when outside temp of around 120F, after not moving for about 5-10 mins, my temp went really high, had to pop the hood open to get it down a bit and turned off the AC.
so if its just stop and go, then its in the tune and the fans will take care of that, but if in a stand still, then .

LEAVINU

Last year I had a vented hood; no heating issues.

Sold the vented hood early this year......

Stock hood is back on; I now have heating issues.


Vented hoods DO work in stop-n-go traffic. As far as everything else with lift, etc I can't say factually.

mforman42

I agree, and they may or may not help when the car is moving. Too many variables to know for sure.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

Vented hoods help in a number of ways.

1. Route hot air from under the car out of the top of the hood.
2. Promotes cooling by drawing the air from the radiator out from under the hood of the car and letting more air in.
3. Adds in downforce by removing the air pressure area under the hood thus keeping the nose of the car down.

Our radiator is a big help as well.

If you are having cooling problems I would suggest starting with a thermostat and changing your fan temps. If that isn't dropping it enough then go to a larger radiator so you have more 'heat capacity'. This alone should drop temps 18-25 degree's with no other changes.

After that, a hood can be a great addition for not only cooling but increased downforce as well.

SLOWEST Z

will the radiator help in both stop/go traffic and highway driving?

if putting a large dardiator will drop the temp by 20 dgrees in stop/go traffic that is a great improvement.