John Shiels

your kidding right? That is out right dangerous. I would NOT want anyone here to try the same thing unless it was on a wheelbarrow pushed under 5 mph.

First unless you have bought graded washers they are different thicknesses because regular washers are made from scrap. Look at a stack and you will see they are all different. Secondly your im is just touching the washers not the entire hub flange to take the load. Thirdly if you put to many like over 1/4" you hub flange is not engaged and all the load of wheel impacts will be on the studs and not the hub flange.

AND you rotors and rim will not be getting the same load on each torqued lug nut!

where did you buy the wheel spacers?

JsnMR2

JsnMR2

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HoustonSVT

Thanks for posting the pics, it does look so much better like that. However I still think more in needed for my taste. Maybe 1/2 front and 3/4 back.

JsnMR2

3/4" back would stick out past the fender by far. With my DR's the tire is going to be 100% flush with the fender in the rear.

For the front.. Front could use another 1/8"-1/4" more. I didn't want to risk fender rubbing.

HoustonSVT

What did you do on the studs? Replace them yourself or have a shop do it? If a shop did it what did they charge?

How many hours?

JsnMR2

A shop did it. To do studs + lowering bolts it was $300.00

HoustonSVT

Cool, You did 3/8 front and 1/4 in rear right? For some reason I'm thinking the larger spacer should be in the rear?

JsnMR2

Yup 3/8" front and 1/4" rear. I was going to do 3/8" all around but wanted to make sure my DR's clear. I'm glad I did it this way.

For someone staying with stock tires.. I'd probably for 1/2" front and 3/8" rear..

ajbarbato15

Jsn, thank you so much for all of your helpful information and pictures throughout this thread. I have been waiting for someone to post pics with spacers for months now. I placed my order with DRM last night! Ill add some pics to this thread when mine is done as well!

Thanks again!

Anthony

John Shiels

You can tap out the studs but you really don't want to do it while the hub is on the car and hammer the bearings. Then you can tighten them up with and air gun and some spacers like a socket to pull the splines into the hub.

MTIRC6Z

You can tap the stud out of the hub, but you'll never get it out from behind the hub much less get the new much longer stud back in. On my C6Z I tried every which way and ended up having to remove the hubs to get the job done. Can't imagine there something particularly different about my specific car.

Can I assume you haven't actually changed studs on a C6Z?

Cheers, Paul.

JsnMR2

Yes hubs had to be removed

JsnMR2

Awesome, what size did you go with?

ajbarbato15

I went with the same sizes that you used, as I am running the same rear tire (345 NT05R) and a 285 front.

Anthony