[Z06] Burn out in 1st or 2nd gear? Nitto tire pressure?
03-10-2011, 04:38 AM
#1
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Burn out in 1st or 2nd gear? Nitto tire pressure?
Hey guys,
Going to the track today and looking for some tips.
I have a stock 2006 z06 with cold air intake, 91 pump tune on brand new nittos drag radials.
At the track, do you start your burnout in 1st or in 2nd gear?
Is it more risky on the clutch to start In 2nd gear?
Also, what tire pressure do you set new nitto drag radials at?
Does the front tire pressure matter?
Thanks for the tips!
-the going to be z06Master
Going to the track today and looking for some tips.
I have a stock 2006 z06 with cold air intake, 91 pump tune on brand new nittos drag radials.
At the track, do you start your burnout in 1st or in 2nd gear?
Is it more risky on the clutch to start In 2nd gear?
Also, what tire pressure do you set new nitto drag radials at?
Does the front tire pressure matter?
Thanks for the tips!
-the going to be z06Master
03-10-2011, 07:47 AM
#2
Melting Slicks
03-10-2011, 11:41 AM
#3
Le Mans Master
I like to use 1st gear personally. It gets the tires spinning easier, and IS easier on the clutch.
2nd gear spins the tires faster, giving you more of a burnout, but with the stock clutch on drag radials, traction (and the need for a bigger burnout) is not the problem.
The front tire psi only matters if you are looking to shave off every last .01 you possibly can. Unless you are at your limit and have maxed out your driving abilities, I wouldn't bother adding air, then removing it after you're done racing.
As for a starting psi for the Nitto's, I don't use them so I'm not sure what guys are running in them, but I have found on Mickey Thompson's that a good starting PSI has been 21psi. Those DR's grip TOO much, thus the higher psi. It's also dependent on track prep, conditions and your driving style. You can then adjust up or down based on your results.
I have recently run on Hoosier's and had to go down to 17psi due to excessive spin on the 1-2 shift. I ran my personal best on the Hoosier's.
One thing, in case you don't already know, do a larger burnout your first pass on the new DR's. After that, just till first smoke is usually enough of a burnout, and please do NOT do your burnout IN the water box. Drive to the front of it. I can't tell you how many videos I've seen with guys doing their burnouts IN the water box!!
Good luck!
Ron
2nd gear spins the tires faster, giving you more of a burnout, but with the stock clutch on drag radials, traction (and the need for a bigger burnout) is not the problem.
The front tire psi only matters if you are looking to shave off every last .01 you possibly can. Unless you are at your limit and have maxed out your driving abilities, I wouldn't bother adding air, then removing it after you're done racing.
As for a starting psi for the Nitto's, I don't use them so I'm not sure what guys are running in them, but I have found on Mickey Thompson's that a good starting PSI has been 21psi. Those DR's grip TOO much, thus the higher psi. It's also dependent on track prep, conditions and your driving style. You can then adjust up or down based on your results.
I have recently run on Hoosier's and had to go down to 17psi due to excessive spin on the 1-2 shift. I ran my personal best on the Hoosier's.
One thing, in case you don't already know, do a larger burnout your first pass on the new DR's. After that, just till first smoke is usually enough of a burnout, and please do NOT do your burnout IN the water box. Drive to the front of it. I can't tell you how many videos I've seen with guys doing their burnouts IN the water box!!
Good luck!
Ron
Last edited by Dr.Ron; 03-14-2011 at 01:09 AM.
03-10-2011, 10:57 PM
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I do and recommend 2d gear burnouts. Tires heat faster and puts less heat in the clutch. With damp rear tires, whether stock or drag radials, at the hit of the clutch release, the rears start spinning. Sufficient smoke is made in a few seconds. Release the brake and the car roars forward. The tires are heated.
The sequence is shown at the beginning of this video; the rear tires are BFG:
Ideal duration for the burnout, to bring the sticky compound to the tire surface, depends on the specific composition of the tire model. So beware of general rules. Experiment or ask accomplished drivers who run your exact DR.
Ranger
The sequence is shown at the beginning of this video; the rear tires are BFG:
Ideal duration for the burnout, to bring the sticky compound to the tire surface, depends on the specific composition of the tire model. So beware of general rules. Experiment or ask accomplished drivers who run your exact DR.
Ranger
Last edited by Ranger; 03-10-2011 at 11:16 PM.
03-11-2011, 03:35 AM
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Hey Ranger! It's an honer to get tips from you. I've been reading your site and your videos for a long time.
One problem I tend to have, is when I pull up to the line and get ready to rev up for the launch, I keep rolling.
The last pass I took my time more and lined up more at the first light but still was a bit odd that it rolls like that.
In the past I raced mustangs and never had that issue.
Any advice?
One problem I tend to have, is when I pull up to the line and get ready to rev up for the launch, I keep rolling.
The last pass I took my time more and lined up more at the first light but still was a bit odd that it rolls like that.
In the past I raced mustangs and never had that issue.
Any advice?
03-11-2011, 03:42 AM
#8
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Best time today was:
60' 1.729
330 4.889
1/8 737.8
MPH 98.60
Tire pressure was 13 psi.
Launch was around 3,000.
What do you guys think?
I'm in CA and my brother said that other cars run faster in the east, is that correct?
Ranger, can you run 10.70's on the west coast?
Where are you from?
Given the numbers above, what do you think I can get my car to run? What should I work on?
60' 1.729
330 4.889
1/8 737.8
MPH 98.60
Tire pressure was 13 psi.
Launch was around 3,000.
What do you guys think?
I'm in CA and my brother said that other cars run faster in the east, is that correct?
Ranger, can you run 10.70's on the west coast?
Where are you from?
Given the numbers above, what do you think I can get my car to run? What should I work on?
03-11-2011, 07:04 AM
#9
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Hi z06master.
What ET a traction-limited manual-tranny can runs depends on
(1) quality of the driving
(2) track conditions
(3) weather
The more favorable the weather, the more power the car produces and the greater the challenge in maintaining traction. So driver challenges abound.
The car doesn't know what coast it's on. Some very fast passes have been run at tracks around the country.
If the car wants to roll forward during staging, it's because the driver errs by attempting to "take up the slack" in the clutch-throw. To me that's a no-no. I start my clutch release from the floor and make it a one-piece release.
13 psi in the rear is too low for any DR and creates excessive drag and stability issues at speed, making it difficult to stay in the racing groove.
The 60'-330' incremental was slow by a good tenth. Suggesting a slow throttle squeeze and big bog off the good 60' or a shift issue on the 1-2.
On the bright side 1.72 and 7.37 first time out is a good job. Just keep in mind that driving is always a work in progress.
Ranger
What ET a traction-limited manual-tranny can runs depends on
(1) quality of the driving
(2) track conditions
(3) weather
The more favorable the weather, the more power the car produces and the greater the challenge in maintaining traction. So driver challenges abound.
The car doesn't know what coast it's on. Some very fast passes have been run at tracks around the country.
If the car wants to roll forward during staging, it's because the driver errs by attempting to "take up the slack" in the clutch-throw. To me that's a no-no. I start my clutch release from the floor and make it a one-piece release.
13 psi in the rear is too low for any DR and creates excessive drag and stability issues at speed, making it difficult to stay in the racing groove.
The 60'-330' incremental was slow by a good tenth. Suggesting a slow throttle squeeze and big bog off the good 60' or a shift issue on the 1-2.
On the bright side 1.72 and 7.37 first time out is a good job. Just keep in mind that driving is always a work in progress.
Ranger
Last edited by Ranger; 03-11-2011 at 07:15 AM.
03-12-2011, 03:53 AM
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The pass had a light spin, didn't bog.
My first pass was a 2.00 60 foot at 15 psi (but launch rpm was low, around 2,000) That's why I went down to 13 psi. Seems like it really helped getting that 1.7 60 foot.
Do you think I should try 13 psi again? Or go back up to 15 psi or more?
My first pass was a 2.00 60 foot at 15 psi (but launch rpm was low, around 2,000) That's why I went down to 13 psi. Seems like it really helped getting that 1.7 60 foot.
Do you think I should try 13 psi again? Or go back up to 15 psi or more?
03-12-2011, 04:17 AM
#11
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Ranger, any tips on where to set your seat? Such as details of how you set your seat. I know it's preset, but I tend to move it. Not sure where it's best to set it at for the drag
03-12-2011, 06:41 AM
#12
Melting Slicks
Just practice for gods sake. You have to do lots of runs until it feels just right.Dont try to duplicate like a robot.Get a feel for your car until there is a harmony between driver and machine.You can sit here and go back and forth with twenty questions practice is the only answer.This piece of advice by the way is the best you got all day.
03-12-2011, 08:38 AM
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The pass had a light spin, didn't bog.
My first pass was a 2.00 60 foot at 15 psi (but launch rpm was low, around 2,000) That's why I went down to 13 psi. Seems like it really helped getting that 1.7 60 foot.
Do you think I should try 13 psi again? Or go back up to 15 psi or more?
My first pass was a 2.00 60 foot at 15 psi (but launch rpm was low, around 2,000) That's why I went down to 13 psi. Seems like it really helped getting that 1.7 60 foot.
Do you think I should try 13 psi again? Or go back up to 15 psi or more?
On setting the seat, a key factor often overlooked is unrestricted access to the clutch pedal. The stroke of the left leg is what governs shift speed and reliability.
Ranger
Last edited by Ranger; 03-12-2011 at 09:54 AM.
03-12-2011, 04:21 PM
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Just practice for gods sake. You have to do lots of runs until it feels just right.Dont try to duplicate like a robot.Get a feel for your car until there is a harmony between driver and machine.You can sit here and go back and forth with twenty questions practice is the only answer.This piece of advice by the way is the best you got all day.
You need the right setup. I'm talking with guys who run the fastest z06 passes in the US. They have 100's of passes under their belt. They know what works.
I'm here to learn, share and help others too. I know the advice others are giving me will and has helped..
With their tips, I can have better practice rounds.
03-12-2011, 04:25 PM
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Experience of many fast-ET drivers is to run the highest psi in the drag radial which produces just a small amount of spin during clutch lock-up. This assumes the DR is correctly sized, heated by the burnout and free of water drops. It is very unusual for that psi to be below 18 and common for it to be above 20. So at 13 psi, you are suffering excessive parasitic drag with no traction benefit.
On setting the seat, a key factor often overlooked is unrestricted access to the clutch pedal. The stroke of the left leg is what governs shift speed and reliability.
Ranger
On setting the seat, a key factor often overlooked is unrestricted access to the clutch pedal. The stroke of the left leg is what governs shift speed and reliability.
Ranger
Next time out I'll try 18 psi and let you know how it goes.
Thanks for the advice.
Talk soon
03-12-2011, 04:45 PM
#16
Melting Slicks
