[Z06] Z06 brake rotors warped...
#21
Racer
Well the re-burnishing you could say didn't fix the prob.
Its annoying but I will just live with it for now.
I hope DBA comes out with a 2piece rear soon...
Thanks guys for the help but looks like the rotors don't like me =(
Its annoying but I will just live with it for now.
I hope DBA comes out with a 2piece rear soon...
Thanks guys for the help but looks like the rotors don't like me =(
#22
Racer
I personally have no issues with the stock GM rotors, I daily mine and push it real hard on the weekends on the highway. I've had the stock rotors glowing enough to to light up the side barrier on the highway multiple times. Jamming on them form 160ish to 60ish mph. I'm on a complete stock brake system. Also an 07 Z06. The only time I felt a little warpage, I got up to speed and road the brake a little bit and heald it, they straightened right up. Mine have cracks around each hole, I do not see any reason to turn a cross drilled rotor. They are cheap enough from the dealership to replace them, why not.
WTF was I thinking!!!!! "oh i want 2pc so its lighter.. blah blah wah wah.."
Now I spent 1600 and have pulsation that is driving me mad..
Hahahaha you just can't win can you?!
Played the lottery.. it's at 675mil now... didn't win there either LOL ohh i am losing it slowly
#23
Race Director
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SpartanSupps (01-07-2016)
#24
Racer
#25
Tech Contributor
Did it occur immediately after installing new rotors or only after driving for awhile? If immediate, you likely have corrosion or something preventing the rotor from seating properly on the hub. If it's after you drive a couple hundred miles, you may have a caliper dragging...i.e. One or more of the Pistons is keeping the padlet or padlets engaged against the rotor.
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SpartanSupps (01-10-2016)
#26
Tether Man
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I suspect that you actually are getting uneven buildups of pad material - not warped rotors.
Read this StopTech document:
The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System
Scroll down to the part about "pad imprinting" and you'll see a link to "Figure 5", and this is the picture of pad material deposited on the rotor:
I think that's probably the cause of your "warped" rotor!!
Bob
Read this StopTech document:
The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System
Scroll down to the part about "pad imprinting" and you'll see a link to "Figure 5", and this is the picture of pad material deposited on the rotor:
I think that's probably the cause of your "warped" rotor!!
Bob
#27
Are the C7Z OEM rotors any lighter/better
#28
Drifting
#29
Racer
Did it occur immediately after installing new rotors or only after driving for awhile? If immediate, you likely have corrosion or something preventing the rotor from seating properly on the hub. If it's after you drive a couple hundred miles, you may have a caliper dragging...i.e. One or more of the Pistons is keeping the padlet or padlets engaged against the rotor.
They looked a little rusty but i felt them and they felt smooth enough.. maybe not. Should I just replace them? If so then whats the best hub or should I opt for the zr1 hub as I have read they are better upgrade for the price.
Thanks in advance!
#30
Racer
#31
Tech Contributor
Yes it was immediate. You know what, when I pulled off the wheels and rotors yesterday I looked at the hubs. I had read before that this could be the problem.
They looked a little rusty but i felt them and they felt smooth enough.. maybe not. Should I just replace them? If so then whats the best hub or should I opt for the zr1 hub as I have read they are better upgrade for the price.
Thanks in advance!
They looked a little rusty but i felt them and they felt smooth enough.. maybe not. Should I just replace them? If so then whats the best hub or should I opt for the zr1 hub as I have read they are better upgrade for the price.
Thanks in advance!
Having said that, before you actually remove the wheel, verify the hub is still good. Grasp the tire at 12 and 6 and try to rock it...push at the bottom / pull at the top and vice versa. There should be no play (although a very very minimal amount is no big deal). If you have play, then the hubs need to be replaced. SKF are the no kidding hubs but are $$$. I haven't checked/used the ZR-1 hubs but wouldn't hesitate. In general, OEM hubs are pretty good quality.
Last edited by 96GS#007; 01-07-2016 at 07:45 PM.
#32
Racer
If they have some rust on them, a wire brush on a drill makes for a quick clean up and they should be fine.
Having said that, before you actually remove the wheel, verify the hub is still good. Grasp the tire at 12 and 6 and try to rock it...push at the bottom / pull at the top and vice versa. There should be no play (although a very very minimal amount is no big deal). If you have play, then the hubs need to be replaced. SKF are the no kidding hubs but are $$$. I haven't checked/used the ZR-1 hubs but wouldn't hesitate. In general, OEM hubs are pretty good quality.
Having said that, before you actually remove the wheel, verify the hub is still good. Grasp the tire at 12 and 6 and try to rock it...push at the bottom / pull at the top and vice versa. There should be no play (although a very very minimal amount is no big deal). If you have play, then the hubs need to be replaced. SKF are the no kidding hubs but are $$$. I haven't checked/used the ZR-1 hubs but wouldn't hesitate. In general, OEM hubs are pretty good quality.
Thanks again, will report if this fixes the pulsing
#33
Race Director
They changed the ABS to Bosch in MY 2009 and changed the hubs then, with better hubs.
If you have a 2006-08 MY Z06 then the SKF hubs should be a one and done, but they do not fit 2009 and newer.
If you have a 2006-08 MY Z06 then the SKF hubs should be a one and done, but they do not fit 2009 and newer.
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SpartanSupps (01-10-2016)