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[Z06] LS7 Exhaust Valve Pictures

Old 06-28-2011, 01:10 AM
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hapnermw
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Default LS7 Exhaust Valve Pictures

These stock exhaust valves were recently removed from the heads I sent to WCCH. I'm told by them they are typical of the valves they see and this condition seems to be the same regardless of how the car was used. All exhaust valve guides required replacement.

The engine had 30K+ miles - 15K was stock and 15K had Katech cam/springs. It has seen 20+ HPDE days. The car has a conservative tune. I've primarily used Amsoil 10w40 Premium.

The burned oil and galling in the area of the valve guide should be easy to see. I'm not an expert in evaluating valve stems but these don't look like they are in good shape.

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Old 06-28-2011, 01:14 AM
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BSSN
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What are the specs on the cam you ran?
Old 06-28-2011, 01:34 AM
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hapnermw
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Originally Posted by BSSN
What are the specs on the cam you ran?
Katech Torquer CAM 220 / 244 @ .050, .615 / .648 lift, 110 LSA +004

Nothing radical, I doubt it had anything to do with this wear. The issue is the heat the sodium valves concentrate in the guides.
Old 06-28-2011, 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by hapnermw
Katech Torquer CAM 220 / 244 @ .050, .615 / .648 lift, 110 LSA +004

Nothing radical, I doubt it had anything to do with this wear. The issue is the heat the sodium valves concentrate in the guides.
I don't know, Katech has already said that a larger cam= more wear. Yours is not radical, but I would have liked to see your valves at the 15K OEM mile mark.

I'm all about finding a problem, fixing it, and moving on, but I don't want to sell the OEM short.
Old 06-28-2011, 07:26 AM
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Were your I take guides worn/ replaced?
Old 06-28-2011, 07:34 AM
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Dicecal
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GM does not recommend any oil weight above 5w-30
Old 06-28-2011, 07:53 AM
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1.8t
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What year is your car?
Old 06-28-2011, 08:23 AM
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What were the measurements on the guides, top and bottom, please? Also, what have you decided to run now (head/valves)?

thanks!
Old 06-28-2011, 08:33 AM
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WhiteDiamond
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Originally Posted by hapnermw

Nothing radical, I doubt it had anything to do with this wear. The issue is the heat the sodium valves concentrate in the guides.
While true, any additional lift is going to give you that slight amount of extra wear in the guide area. With the other thread on the Lemon suit and the info found on the guides, make sure you have your builder look at the rocker tips.
Old 06-28-2011, 03:00 PM
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hapnermw
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Originally Posted by WhiteDiamond
While true, any additional lift is going to give you that slight amount of extra wear in the guide area. With the other thread on the Lemon suit and the info found on the guides, make sure you have your builder look at the rocker tips.
Practically every Z06 that is tracked uses something beyond 5w-30 oil. I'm not interested in getting into a debate about oil viscosity/brand but it is highly unlikely that this is a factor with this valve guide wear issue.

The rockers were in excellent condition. The offset rockers did have the small triangle in the tip that was not polished. And, like in the other thread, the wear pattern extends slightly into the triangle area.

The car has had CHE upgraded stock rockers for 15K miles. CHE is a highly respected race engineering company, if there were any issue with this unpolished triangle on the offset rockers I'm certain they would know about it.

The car is a 2007.

I don't have the worn guide measurements. WCCH did the analysis. In addition to the 'typical' exhaust valve guide wear they found that six intake valve guides were conical which they felt could not be explained by wear.

All valve guides were replaced with CHE guides, the stock sodium valves were replaced with Manley Severe Duty SS Valves. Because the SS valves are 32 gm heavier they require springs with a higher nose pressure.

The springs, retainers, spring seats and seals were replaced with the PRC .675 spring kit.

Since I was adding weight to the valve train I decided to replace the stock lifters with Morel high-rpm lifters. When the bottom end was disassembled, it was found that one stock lifter had lost its retainer clip and was in the process of coming apart.

The heads were milled .020. With the milling and the new lifters, the stock pushrods were too long and were replaced with Manley pushrods.

The CHE rockers were retained and the only stock parts left are the heads (now ported by WCCH) and the titanium valves and lash caps.

The CHE rockers were as tight and smooth as the day they were installed. The titanium intake valves were excellent The lash cap wear was not measured but they looked to be in good shape.

WCCH does beautiful head work. My engine builder was impressed. He remarked on how the valve guides minimally extended beyond the head to provide maximum flow.
Old 06-30-2011, 11:06 AM
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skudlw
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Originally Posted by Dicecal
GM does not recommend any oil weight above 5w-30
I believe you're using the wrong oil and that's causing the issue.
Old 06-30-2011, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by skudlw
I believe you're using the wrong oil and that's causing the issue.
If there is any difference in valve guide lubrication between M1 5w30 and Amsoil 10w40, the Amsoil would be superior not inferior. I noted the oil I used because other threads were questioning whether 5w30 was sufficient for guide lubrication given the temps in an LS7.

I did have some carbon buildup on the stock pistons which may have been due in part to oil leakage past the worn exhaust valve guides.

Here's some background on valve guide wear ...

One thing you can almost always count on when rebuilding a cylinder head is worn valve guides. The guides experience a lot of wear because of the constant friction between the guide and stem. To make matters worse, positive valve seals on late model engines prevent the guides from receiving much lubrication. Side forces on the valve stem caused by changes in valvetrain geometry or by direct acting overhead cams further contribute to guide wear.

WORN VALVE GUIDES
When the guides are worn or there is too much clearance between the guide and valve stem, the engine will use oil. This applies to both intake and exhaust guides. Though oil consumption can be more of a problem on the intake side because of constant exposure to engine vacuum, oil can also be pulled down the exhaust guides by suction in the exhaust port. The flow of exhaust past the exhaust guide creates a venturi effect that can pull oil down the guide.

Oil in the exhaust system of late model vehicles with catalytic converters may cause the converter to overheat and suffer damage. On the intake side, oil drawn into the engine past worn intake guides can foul spark plugs, cause the engine to emit higher than normal unburned hydrocarbon (HC) emissions, and contribute to a rapid buildup of carbon deposits on the backs of the intake valves and in the combustion chamber. Carbon deposits in the combustion chamber can raise compression to the point where detonation occurs under load. Deposits on the backs of the intake valves in engines equipped with multipoint fuel injection can cause hesitation and idle problems because the deposits interfere with proper fuel delivery.

Inadequate valve cooling and premature valve failure is another problem that can be caused by worn guides or ones with excessive clearance. About 75% of the heat from a typical valve is conducted to the seat, and the remaining 25% goes up the stem and out through the guide. On late mode engines with three-angle narrow seats, the amount of heat transfer that takes place through the stem is even higher because less heat can be dissipated through the seat. So if the guide is worn, the valve may run hot and burn.

Worn guides can also pass air. "Unmetered" air drawn into the intake ports past the guides creates an effect similar to worn throttle shafts on a carburetor. The extra air reduces intake vacuum and upsets the air/fuel calibration of the engine at idle. The result may be a lean misfire problem and rough idle.

VALVE FAILURE
Worn guides can also contribute to valve breakage. The guides support and center the valves as they open and close. A worn guide will allow the valve to wobble slightly as it opens, which cause it to drift off-center with respect to the seat. This can cause the head of the valve to flex slightly each time it closes (much like a valve with a nonconcentric seat). After so many cycles, the metal fatigues and the head of the valve breaks off from the stem.

Generally speaking, the intake valve stem-to guide clearance for most passenger cars ranges from .001 to .003 in., and .002 to .004 in. for exhaust guides (which generally require .0005 to .001 in. more clearance than the intakes for thermal expansion). Diesel engines as a rule have looser specs on both intake and exhaust guides than gasoline engines, and heads with sodium-filled exhaust valves usually require an extra .001 in. of clearance to handle the additional heat conducted up through the valve stems.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/ar696.htm
Old 06-30-2011, 05:57 PM
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Vito.A
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hapnermw,

I agree, the GM 5W-20 spec is mostly due to emissions. You can trace the reduction in viscosity over the years directly to the stricter emissions requirements.

These exhaust valves are not that bad compared to some of the others we have seen. The black discoloration near the head is normal. What you do not want is galling and metal transfer.
Old 06-30-2011, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Vito.A
hapnermw,

I agree, the GM 5W-20 spec is mostly due to emissions. You can trace the reduction in viscosity over the years directly to the stricter emissions requirements.

These exhaust valves are not that bad compared to some of the others we have seen. The black discoloration near the head is normal. What you do not want is galling and metal transfer.
Thanks, I could feel a small degree of roughness in the dark area. I don't know enough to judge whether this is significant or not.

My main concern was the guide wear and the extra valve head stress that creates.

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