[Z06] Akrapovic Install Issue????
09-03-2011, 07:40 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Akrapovic Install Issue????
HI,
Decided to finally install the Akra's, after having them sit in the garage for like 3 months!
Anyway, when I went to dismount the vacuum canister's from the oem cans to the Akra's, i noticed that I have no way to mount/tighten the lower nut to the vacuum canister? I never saw this mentioned before, and I have many tools available to me, but the only way I saw to get to it would be to disassemble the valve. (Which I don't want to do.)
***More problems***
The way the Akra's position the canister's, makes it such that there isn't a way to connect them to the oem hard lines? In Akra's pics, they show a rubber vacuum line, but mine are hard plastic until the last 1", where it transitions to rubber, and also steps down. Are we supposed to be swapping out the hardlines, and using rubber instead? What size? Will need a reducer as well... what a PITA!!! I figured I would have trouble getting the stock cans out, as they were modified with cutouts, and the flange on the over-axle pipe, prevented me from getting out the right side without reverting to a sawzall, but I expected better engineering fitment of the Akra's, considering the costs involved. What does a 1-2ft of rubber hose cost...a $1 or $2.
***Update: Looking closely at the install pics, I see that the canister bracket's on my muffler's are opposite. On mine, the bracket support is facing towards the rear of the car, blocking any access to tighten the nut, whereas on Akra's pic's there is clear access
Now the million dollar question, there is a locking tab on the center nut, if I bend that back, it might snap, and then I have no way of ensuring that the nut doesn't work loose over time. I could use red loctite, but not sure if that will be enough. I will contact Jim, whom I bought them from, and hopefully he can assist in getting replacement bracket's sent out, or direct me on what to do.
I don't consider myself a novice, but rather an accomplished wrencher, having many modded vehicles and doing almost everything myself. So am I missing something here? I have chosen to just use the 2 mounts, as they appear to be tight enough.
Haven't finished installing them yet, but I hope they sound as advertised....
Decided to finally install the Akra's, after having them sit in the garage for like 3 months!
Anyway, when I went to dismount the vacuum canister's from the oem cans to the Akra's, i noticed that I have no way to mount/tighten the lower nut to the vacuum canister? I never saw this mentioned before, and I have many tools available to me, but the only way I saw to get to it would be to disassemble the valve. (Which I don't want to do.)
***More problems***
The way the Akra's position the canister's, makes it such that there isn't a way to connect them to the oem hard lines? In Akra's pics, they show a rubber vacuum line, but mine are hard plastic until the last 1", where it transitions to rubber, and also steps down. Are we supposed to be swapping out the hardlines, and using rubber instead? What size? Will need a reducer as well... what a PITA!!! I figured I would have trouble getting the stock cans out, as they were modified with cutouts, and the flange on the over-axle pipe, prevented me from getting out the right side without reverting to a sawzall, but I expected better engineering fitment of the Akra's, considering the costs involved. What does a 1-2ft of rubber hose cost...a $1 or $2.
***Update: Looking closely at the install pics, I see that the canister bracket's on my muffler's are opposite. On mine, the bracket support is facing towards the rear of the car, blocking any access to tighten the nut, whereas on Akra's pic's there is clear access
Now the million dollar question, there is a locking tab on the center nut, if I bend that back, it might snap, and then I have no way of ensuring that the nut doesn't work loose over time. I could use red loctite, but not sure if that will be enough. I will contact Jim, whom I bought them from, and hopefully he can assist in getting replacement bracket's sent out, or direct me on what to do.
I don't consider myself a novice, but rather an accomplished wrencher, having many modded vehicles and doing almost everything myself. So am I missing something here? I have chosen to just use the 2 mounts, as they appear to be tight enough.
Haven't finished installing them yet, but I hope they sound as advertised....
Last edited by edmundu; 09-03-2011 at 08:59 AM. Reason: More issues...
09-03-2011, 10:48 AM
#2
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Great News!!!!
Ok, so Akrapovic says the actuator's are not symmetrical, and should not be reversed. Well, I bought my Z used, and I know it had the cans removed for cutout's, as well as the nitrous installation. The N20 required the tank to be supported from underneath, with thick aluminum bars to give the cargo floor enough structural rigidity. Perhaps in those r&r's the canister's were swapped?
I decided to swap the actuator's, and I was able to get them to point the vacuum port towards the rear of the car, like oem. My next hurdle was I had snapped a stud on one of them, and a second one was partially cross threaded. When I was removing them, I noticed that they felt like they were put on cross threaded, either from the factory, or someone afterwards. So with great luck, the broken stud was just long enough to allow me to put the nut on for 2-3 turns. I then found a small little 8mm open end wrench, which I used to painstakingly thread & tighten the last stud behind the actuator rod. I also used some antiseize to help with getting the nut on, and making it a little easier to turn.
Wheeeww..... They are in, and I am in the process of tightening up the rest of the piping, as well as the swaybar links, subframe bolts, etc....
Tip: For those that received their akra'a with bent pipes, from shipping damage, I was able to use an exhaust pipe expander I picked up from Harbor freight to make them round again! IT was pretty inexpensive, $15 or so, and allowed me to correct it at home
Ok, so Akrapovic says the actuator's are not symmetrical, and should not be reversed. Well, I bought my Z used, and I know it had the cans removed for cutout's, as well as the nitrous installation. The N20 required the tank to be supported from underneath, with thick aluminum bars to give the cargo floor enough structural rigidity. Perhaps in those r&r's the canister's were swapped?
I decided to swap the actuator's, and I was able to get them to point the vacuum port towards the rear of the car, like oem. My next hurdle was I had snapped a stud on one of them, and a second one was partially cross threaded. When I was removing them, I noticed that they felt like they were put on cross threaded, either from the factory, or someone afterwards. So with great luck, the broken stud was just long enough to allow me to put the nut on for 2-3 turns. I then found a small little 8mm open end wrench, which I used to painstakingly thread & tighten the last stud behind the actuator rod. I also used some antiseize to help with getting the nut on, and making it a little easier to turn.
Wheeeww..... They are in, and I am in the process of tightening up the rest of the piping, as well as the swaybar links, subframe bolts, etc....
Tip: For those that received their akra'a with bent pipes, from shipping damage, I was able to use an exhaust pipe expander I picked up from Harbor freight to make them round again! IT was pretty inexpensive, $15 or so, and allowed me to correct it at home
09-03-2011, 10:59 AM
#3
Race Director
I'm glad you got it figured out. Just yesterday I was reading through the Akra installation instructions and as I read your first post I was thinking that the actuators may have gotten switched around. I'm having a shop put mine on next week. Do you have any advice that I should pass on to them before they start? By the way, don't forget to post your impressions on the sound and maybe a vid if you can.
09-03-2011, 01:41 PM
#4
Race Director
I'm glad you got it figured out. Just yesterday I was reading through the Akra installation instructions and as I read your first post I was thinking that the actuators may have gotten switched around. I'm having a shop put mine on next week. Do you have any advice that I should pass on to them before they start? By the way, don't forget to post your impressions on the sound and maybe a vid if you can.
09-03-2011, 01:45 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I will certainly update with my impressions
As for advice, definitely lower the rear cradle, that 1" or so does alot! The remaining is just paying attention to how it came out. Like the orientation of the actuator's. And if they don't line up right as there supposed to, don't be afraid to swap them around to get it right. At first I was just following the instructions to a tee, and usually it is accurate, but sometimes it should just be a guide line. (On my install, I had to deal with extra's, qtp cutout's & nitrous tank bracing, that others would not.)
In my haste, I posted up a bit early, but I was a little cranky/tired, so in hindsight I could have waited. But then there wouldn't have been any drama
As for advice, definitely lower the rear cradle, that 1" or so does alot! The remaining is just paying attention to how it came out. Like the orientation of the actuator's. And if they don't line up right as there supposed to, don't be afraid to swap them around to get it right. At first I was just following the instructions to a tee, and usually it is accurate, but sometimes it should just be a guide line. (On my install, I had to deal with extra's, qtp cutout's & nitrous tank bracing, that others would not.)
In my haste, I posted up a bit early, but I was a little cranky/tired, so in hindsight I could have waited. But then there wouldn't have been any drama
09-03-2011, 05:33 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
First impressions:
Deep bass in the exhaust at idle. Very authoratative. Under light throttle with flaps open it is much like what I was hoping for...that is a deep bassy note, clearly depicting a large V8 lurks underhood. and as the rpm's rise it starts to transform into a higher note, kinda like others have described as F1 like. With flaps closed, a little louder than the oem cans were with flaps closed, but still you can easily carry a conversation or answer the cell if needed.
I LOVE the exhaust!!! I have within minutes of firing her up forgotten all about any install headaches. The cut finger's, the cursing because I couldn't get the pass muffler out, the debacle with the actuator's, all a distant memory
One caveuat I didn't expect was that with the deep exhaust note, there are now a few interior trim panel's that resonate at certain rpm/throttle positions. I will try to track those down, and find a resolution, but that is a minor thing to me, as this is not a DD, but a toy!
I will attempt to get video sometime this weekend, but no promises, as I have irritated the Mrs. and I have company over for the holiday weekend....
Deep bass in the exhaust at idle. Very authoratative. Under light throttle with flaps open it is much like what I was hoping for...that is a deep bassy note, clearly depicting a large V8 lurks underhood. and as the rpm's rise it starts to transform into a higher note, kinda like others have described as F1 like. With flaps closed, a little louder than the oem cans were with flaps closed, but still you can easily carry a conversation or answer the cell if needed.
I LOVE the exhaust!!! I have within minutes of firing her up forgotten all about any install headaches. The cut finger's, the cursing because I couldn't get the pass muffler out, the debacle with the actuator's, all a distant memory
One caveuat I didn't expect was that with the deep exhaust note, there are now a few interior trim panel's that resonate at certain rpm/throttle positions. I will try to track those down, and find a resolution, but that is a minor thing to me, as this is not a DD, but a toy!
I will attempt to get video sometime this weekend, but no promises, as I have irritated the Mrs. and I have company over for the holiday weekend....
09-03-2011, 05:58 PM
#8
Race Director
Yea I finally took the leap! I figure if there's drone I'll use a couple of pretty good sound barriers. I'm almost never in your area so maybe some day we can pick a spot between us to meet that would allow both of us to take a nice drive...or if you are ever in my area let me know and I'll throw some road kill on the grill and even supply the cold beverages!
I will certainly update with my impressions
As for advice, definitely lower the rear cradle, that 1" or so does alot! The remaining is just paying attention to how it came out. Like the orientation of the actuator's. And if they don't line up right as there supposed to, don't be afraid to swap them around to get it right. At first I was just following the instructions to a tee, and usually it is accurate, but sometimes it should just be a guide line. (On my install, I had to deal with extra's, qtp cutout's & nitrous tank bracing, that others would not.)
In my haste, I posted up a bit early, but I was a little cranky/tired, so in hindsight I could have waited. But then there wouldn't have been any drama
As for advice, definitely lower the rear cradle, that 1" or so does alot! The remaining is just paying attention to how it came out. Like the orientation of the actuator's. And if they don't line up right as there supposed to, don't be afraid to swap them around to get it right. At first I was just following the instructions to a tee, and usually it is accurate, but sometimes it should just be a guide line. (On my install, I had to deal with extra's, qtp cutout's & nitrous tank bracing, that others would not.)
In my haste, I posted up a bit early, but I was a little cranky/tired, so in hindsight I could have waited. But then there wouldn't have been any drama
09-04-2011, 07:14 AM
#9
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Member Since: Jun 2005
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07, '13, '15
Hi Edmund,
Just now seeing this....read your thread and see you got it sorted out.
Sorry I did not see this sooner.
So was there anything wrong with the actuator mounting brackets or the Akrapovic system in any way? It sounds like everything was related to your car being modified and getting the stock system out (which can be a real bitch on some Z06's, just depends on the year. Getting the over the axle pipe out on the passenger side can be a nightmare). I have never had a Akrapovic install issue related to the design of the Akrapovic, can you elaborate on what the real issues were so I can give feedback to Akarapovic?
Thanks,
Jim
Just now seeing this....read your thread and see you got it sorted out.
Sorry I did not see this sooner.
So was there anything wrong with the actuator mounting brackets or the Akrapovic system in any way? It sounds like everything was related to your car being modified and getting the stock system out (which can be a real bitch on some Z06's, just depends on the year. Getting the over the axle pipe out on the passenger side can be a nightmare). I have never had a Akrapovic install issue related to the design of the Akrapovic, can you elaborate on what the real issues were so I can give feedback to Akarapovic?
Thanks,
Jim
Great News!!!!
Ok, so Akrapovic says the actuator's are not symmetrical, and should not be reversed. Well, I bought my Z used, and I know it had the cans removed for cutout's, as well as the nitrous installation. The N20 required the tank to be supported from underneath, with thick aluminum bars to give the cargo floor enough structural rigidity. Perhaps in those r&r's the canister's were swapped?
I decided to swap the actuator's, and I was able to get them to point the vacuum port towards the rear of the car, like oem. My next hurdle was I had snapped a stud on one of them, and a second one was partially cross threaded. When I was removing them, I noticed that they felt like they were put on cross threaded, either from the factory, or someone afterwards. So with great luck, the broken stud was just long enough to allow me to put the nut on for 2-3 turns. I then found a small little 8mm open end wrench, which I used to painstakingly thread & tighten the last stud behind the actuator rod. I also used some antiseize to help with getting the nut on, and making it a little easier to turn.
Wheeeww..... They are in, and I am in the process of tightening up the rest of the piping, as well as the swaybar links, subframe bolts, etc....
Tip: For those that received their akra'a with bent pipes, from shipping damage, I was able to use an exhaust pipe expander I picked up from Harbor freight to make them round again! IT was pretty inexpensive, $15 or so, and allowed me to correct it at home
Ok, so Akrapovic says the actuator's are not symmetrical, and should not be reversed. Well, I bought my Z used, and I know it had the cans removed for cutout's, as well as the nitrous installation. The N20 required the tank to be supported from underneath, with thick aluminum bars to give the cargo floor enough structural rigidity. Perhaps in those r&r's the canister's were swapped?
I decided to swap the actuator's, and I was able to get them to point the vacuum port towards the rear of the car, like oem. My next hurdle was I had snapped a stud on one of them, and a second one was partially cross threaded. When I was removing them, I noticed that they felt like they were put on cross threaded, either from the factory, or someone afterwards. So with great luck, the broken stud was just long enough to allow me to put the nut on for 2-3 turns. I then found a small little 8mm open end wrench, which I used to painstakingly thread & tighten the last stud behind the actuator rod. I also used some antiseize to help with getting the nut on, and making it a little easier to turn.
Wheeeww..... They are in, and I am in the process of tightening up the rest of the piping, as well as the swaybar links, subframe bolts, etc....
Tip: For those that received their akra'a with bent pipes, from shipping damage, I was able to use an exhaust pipe expander I picked up from Harbor freight to make them round again! IT was pretty inexpensive, $15 or so, and allowed me to correct it at home
09-04-2011, 08:37 PM
#10
Race Director
First impressions:
Deep bass in the exhaust at idle. Very authoratative. Under light throttle with flaps open it is much like what I was hoping for...that is a deep bassy note, clearly depicting a large V8 lurks underhood. and as the rpm's rise it starts to transform into a higher note, kinda like others have described as F1 like. With flaps closed, a little louder than the oem cans were with flaps closed, but still you can easily carry a conversation or answer the cell if needed.
I LOVE the exhaust!!! I have within minutes of firing her up forgotten all about any install headaches. The cut finger's, the cursing because I couldn't get the pass muffler out, the debacle with the actuator's, all a distant memory
One caveuat I didn't expect was that with the deep exhaust note, there are now a few interior trim panel's that resonate at certain rpm/throttle positions. I will try to track those down, and find a resolution, but that is a minor thing to me, as this is not a DD, but a toy!
I will attempt to get video sometime this weekend, but no promises, as I have irritated the Mrs. and I have company over for the holiday weekend....
Deep bass in the exhaust at idle. Very authoratative. Under light throttle with flaps open it is much like what I was hoping for...that is a deep bassy note, clearly depicting a large V8 lurks underhood. and as the rpm's rise it starts to transform into a higher note, kinda like others have described as F1 like. With flaps closed, a little louder than the oem cans were with flaps closed, but still you can easily carry a conversation or answer the cell if needed.
I LOVE the exhaust!!! I have within minutes of firing her up forgotten all about any install headaches. The cut finger's, the cursing because I couldn't get the pass muffler out, the debacle with the actuator's, all a distant memory
One caveuat I didn't expect was that with the deep exhaust note, there are now a few interior trim panel's that resonate at certain rpm/throttle positions. I will try to track those down, and find a resolution, but that is a minor thing to me, as this is not a DD, but a toy!
I will attempt to get video sometime this weekend, but no promises, as I have irritated the Mrs. and I have company over for the holiday weekend....
08-05-2012, 03:36 PM
#11
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I will certainly update with my impressions
As for advice, definitely lower the rear cradle, that 1" or so does alot! The remaining is just paying attention to how it came out. Like the orientation of the actuator's. And if they don't line up right as there supposed to, don't be afraid to swap them around to get it right. At first I was just following the instructions to a tee, and usually it is accurate, but sometimes it should just be a guide line. (On my install, I had to deal with extra's, qtp cutout's & nitrous tank bracing, that others would not.)
In my haste, I posted up a bit early, but I was a little cranky/tired, so in hindsight I could have waited. But then there wouldn't have been any drama
As for advice, definitely lower the rear cradle, that 1" or so does alot! The remaining is just paying attention to how it came out. Like the orientation of the actuator's. And if they don't line up right as there supposed to, don't be afraid to swap them around to get it right. At first I was just following the instructions to a tee, and usually it is accurate, but sometimes it should just be a guide line. (On my install, I had to deal with extra's, qtp cutout's & nitrous tank bracing, that others would not.)
In my haste, I posted up a bit early, but I was a little cranky/tired, so in hindsight I could have waited. But then there wouldn't have been any drama
08-05-2012, 04:39 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
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Had mine installed about 2 months ago, have not regretted it for a moment. For me, the best exhaust option since I can still use the actuators, and do not want it to sound like a stock car. Also, my car is on a weight reduction program.
