[ZR1] ZR1 Vibration Issues
09-03-2018, 06:43 PM
#621
AFAIK, the CCB option wasn't offered on Z06 until 2011 so unless you've swapped your brakes to the carbon ceramics then I suspect you're off the hook on this issue and instead dealing with a more conventional balance problem (one that is probably much easier/cheaper to fix 
).
Rule of thumb says that if you're feeling vibration in the steering wheel then its front end and if you're feeling it through the seat (i.e. your butt) then it's from the aft end. Based on your description my first step would be to road force balance the front wheels/tires and see if that eliminates the vibration. Here's a link to the Hunter website that will help locate a road force balancer near you https://www.hunter.com/gsp9700 If that doesn't fix it then next step would be to check the tires and wheels for damage. I've had really old tires flat-spot on me and vibrate regardless of other efforts and a damaged wheel will cause vibration. These things should show up during road force balancing, though, if an excessive amount of weight is needed to balance. Third step would be to investigate bushings and other suspension related issues. Iron rotors, though, creating a vibration is rare based on my experience. It can happen (I did get a set of bad Brembo replacement rotors once upon a time so it is possible), but it would be far down the list of concerns in my troubleshooting .
).Rule of thumb says that if you're feeling vibration in the steering wheel then its front end and if you're feeling it through the seat (i.e. your butt) then it's from the aft end. Based on your description my first step would be to road force balance the front wheels/tires and see if that eliminates the vibration. Here's a link to the Hunter website that will help locate a road force balancer near you https://www.hunter.com/gsp9700 If that doesn't fix it then next step would be to check the tires and wheels for damage. I've had really old tires flat-spot on me and vibrate regardless of other efforts and a damaged wheel will cause vibration. These things should show up during road force balancing, though, if an excessive amount of weight is needed to balance. Third step would be to investigate bushings and other suspension related issues. Iron rotors, though, creating a vibration is rare based on my experience. It can happen (I did get a set of bad Brembo replacement rotors once upon a time so it is possible), but it would be far down the list of concerns in my troubleshooting .
09-09-2018, 11:05 PM
#622
on my 2011 zr1 i started experiencing wheel vibration of 70mph after i swapped out the OEM wheels to aftermarket. balancing an alignment checks out. i have an extended warranty but was told it excludes brakes since its considered a "wear and tear item." but if the rotors are proven to to be out of balance do you think it can be considered as a manufacturer defect? especially since so many others have experienced the same issue?
10-17-2018, 09:03 PM
#623
Drifting
Also worth mentioning...unlike the LS7 issues, there IS an inexpensive jerry-rigged fix for the ones that experience vibration which include balancing the rim accordingly to the part of the rotor that's out of spec. It may not be the RIGHT fix (ie $2400 rotor replacements), but it will work to get you by. And lets be honest...most ZR1 owners aren't going through a set of FRONT tires every year. You shouldn't have to deal with the balance issues for a good 3 to 6(?) years depending on miles you put on it.
Don't let the rotors scare you away from a ZR...especially if you haven't bought one yet. Test drive the hell out of it at all speeds to ensure it's solid. If not...require the dealer/owner have it righted beforehand, or get some serious compensation (I wouldn't accept less than $4K heading into that issue).
on my 2011 zr1 i started experiencing wheel vibration of 70mph after i swapped out the OEM wheels to aftermarket. balancing an alignment checks out. i have an extended warranty but was told it excludes brakes since its considered a "wear and tear item." but if the rotors are proven to to be out of balance do you think it can be considered as a manufacturer defect? especially since so many others have experienced the same issue?
Last edited by Stavesacre21; 10-17-2018 at 10:14 PM.
12-03-2018, 11:13 PM
#624
Safety Car
Fulton1 idea of using a spacer is brilliant! Kinda make sense since the rotors are 15.5" diameter (need I remind anyone that not too long ago 15" wheels where on most cars?) Any imbalance on such diameter is going to be very noticeable. For instance, anybody that tracks knows that after a couple session, you pick up enough rubber inside the rims to actually offset your balancing and you end up with some vibration, it really doesn't take much. it's safe to say that even brand new rotors may not solve it...I think for the cost of the spacer, it is well worth it to balance the whole assembly!
12-04-2018, 07:03 AM
#625
Fulton1 idea of using a spacer is brilliant! Kinda make sense since the rotors are 15.5" diameter (need I remind anyone that not too long ago 15" wheels where on most cars?) Any imbalance on such diameter is going to be very noticeable. For instance, anybody that tracks knows that after a couple session, you pick up enough rubber inside the rims to actually offset your balancing and you end up with some vibration, it really doesn't take much. it's safe to say that even brand new rotors may not solve it...I think for the cost of the spacer, it is well worth it to balance the whole assembly!
12-04-2018, 07:26 PM
#626
Drifting
Short answer...YES. Happens all the time to us at the track. Some big goops of rubber in there sometimes. Also the loss of a weight...less common. Doesn't take much on a 20" rim with such a low profile. On my 18" CCW track rims I have found the tire to move on the rim and throw off my balance after hard braking on high speed tracks. They now knurl the inside bead to grip the tire better to combat this.
05-06-2019, 10:19 PM
#627
Le Mans Master
05-07-2019, 08:05 AM
#628
Racer
Little late to the party but wanted to throw in my $0.02 here. I came from a 427 convertible and know the very real fear of the LS7 heads...blown out of proportion or not. However, the ZR1 isn't really comparable, as it either vibrates...or it wont. All you need to do it take a REAL test drive in it at all speeds 0-100mph. If you don't end up with a vibration, it sounds like you're in the clear. I can't speak for everyone, but from what i've heard, it's not a problem that tends to pop up too much over time, such as the anticipation of a dropped valve in the LS7.
Also worth mentioning...unlike the LS7 issues, there IS an inexpensive jerry-rigged fix for the ones that experience vibration which include balancing the rim accordingly to the part of the rotor that's out of spec. It may not be the RIGHT fix (ie $2400 rotor replacements), but it will work to get you by. And lets be honest...most ZR1 owners aren't going through a set of FRONT tires every year. You shouldn't have to deal with the balance issues for a good 3 to 6(?) years depending on miles you put on it.
Don't let the rotors scare you away from a ZR...especially if you haven't bought one yet. Test drive the hell out of it at all speeds to ensure it's solid. If not...require the dealer/owner have it righted beforehand, or get some serious compensation (I wouldn't accept less than $4K heading into that issue).
At this time, being nearly 8 years old, I hate to say that you're never going to get anyone to pick up the tab for this issue. Most warranties won't cover brakes at all, and the very small select few that might certainly won't pick up the tab for $3-6K for rotors.
Also worth mentioning...unlike the LS7 issues, there IS an inexpensive jerry-rigged fix for the ones that experience vibration which include balancing the rim accordingly to the part of the rotor that's out of spec. It may not be the RIGHT fix (ie $2400 rotor replacements), but it will work to get you by. And lets be honest...most ZR1 owners aren't going through a set of FRONT tires every year. You shouldn't have to deal with the balance issues for a good 3 to 6(?) years depending on miles you put on it.
Don't let the rotors scare you away from a ZR...especially if you haven't bought one yet. Test drive the hell out of it at all speeds to ensure it's solid. If not...require the dealer/owner have it righted beforehand, or get some serious compensation (I wouldn't accept less than $4K heading into that issue).
At this time, being nearly 8 years old, I hate to say that you're never going to get anyone to pick up the tab for this issue. Most warranties won't cover brakes at all, and the very small select few that might certainly won't pick up the tab for $3-6K for rotors.
Well, I’m happy to report that the 08 Z06 is long gone and I bought a 6775 mile VY 2010 ZR1 in February. It was a deal I couldn’t refuse. I finally was able to bring the car up to 70-85mph for a good distance and I’m happy to report I have no vibrations. I’m having the Lingenfelter 710hp kit installed, along with an ATI Super Damper, as I type this.
05-14-2019, 07:48 PM
#629
Instructor
I've been fighting the issue since I purchased my 2011 about 18 months ago. The car came with 6k miles and still had the original PS2 tires and CC rotors. After much trial and error, balancing, and throwing parts at it we discovered that one of the original front rotors was badly out of balance and was causing the bulk of the problem.
I now have new OEM wheels, new MPSS tires, and new AC Delco 177-1120 front rotors. Even with all of that and conventional road force balancing (by "conventional" I mean the wheel/tire only on the balancer like you would normally do) I was still getting significant vibration through the steering wheel at speeds over ~70mph. The thing that has finally solved it for me (and its still not perfect, but WAY better and very livable now) was indexing each rotor to its wheel, mounting them together, and then balancing the whole thing as an assembly.
After running across a guy on YouTube do something similar with his Ferrari wheel and CC rotor, I used a high quality wheel adapter, which effectively simulates the wheel hub, to bolt each rotor to its wheel. I marked an index point on the rotor and on the wheel so that I could re-install on the car in the same orientation. Then the helpful and patient folks at my local Discount Tire agreed to balance these assemblies on their Hunter machine for me and we ended up with 18lbs and 20lbs of road force on the fronts. Those numbers are not ideal, (would have liked to see 15lbs or less) but after test driving the car it is like night and day. It's better than anything we could accomplish with the original rotors and much better than not including the rotor in the balancing at all.
As an example, we did one iteration where we first checked road force on the new front wheels and tires. The numbers came in at a very good 7lbs and 10lbs. Then we added the original rotors and rebalanced them as assemblies. This yielded road force numbers of 24lbs on one and 73lbs (it took 4 oz to balance!!) on the other
So, clearly, the rotors were having a large impact on the balance of the system. This is when I decided to purchase the new AC Delco 177-1120 replacement rotors since I knew at least one of the originals was bad. Note that even with the 73-pounder in the equation, but balanced as assemblies it was still better than using the new rotors and not balancing them as assemblies. I hope that makes sense.
A couple of notes FWIW:
- I never tried using a non-runflat tire as some others have suggested. I considered the Conti's, but ultimately went with the PSS instead. I wouldn't be surprised if the runflats, with their stiff sidewalls, magnify the issue to a degree.
- The AC Delco 177-1120 rotors that I received were marked February 2018 and they look like a newer design. Gone are the little threaded holes between the ring attachment fasteners and balancing now appears to be done by milling the edge of the rotor like you would see on a conventional iron rotor.
Anyway, I hope this helps and am happy to post up some pics that I took along the way if anyone's interested.
I now have new OEM wheels, new MPSS tires, and new AC Delco 177-1120 front rotors. Even with all of that and conventional road force balancing (by "conventional" I mean the wheel/tire only on the balancer like you would normally do) I was still getting significant vibration through the steering wheel at speeds over ~70mph. The thing that has finally solved it for me (and its still not perfect, but WAY better and very livable now) was indexing each rotor to its wheel, mounting them together, and then balancing the whole thing as an assembly.
After running across a guy on YouTube do something similar with his Ferrari wheel and CC rotor, I used a high quality wheel adapter, which effectively simulates the wheel hub, to bolt each rotor to its wheel. I marked an index point on the rotor and on the wheel so that I could re-install on the car in the same orientation. Then the helpful and patient folks at my local Discount Tire agreed to balance these assemblies on their Hunter machine for me and we ended up with 18lbs and 20lbs of road force on the fronts. Those numbers are not ideal, (would have liked to see 15lbs or less) but after test driving the car it is like night and day. It's better than anything we could accomplish with the original rotors and much better than not including the rotor in the balancing at all.
As an example, we did one iteration where we first checked road force on the new front wheels and tires. The numbers came in at a very good 7lbs and 10lbs. Then we added the original rotors and rebalanced them as assemblies. This yielded road force numbers of 24lbs on one and 73lbs (it took 4 oz to balance!!) on the other
So, clearly, the rotors were having a large impact on the balance of the system. This is when I decided to purchase the new AC Delco 177-1120 replacement rotors since I knew at least one of the originals was bad. Note that even with the 73-pounder in the equation, but balanced as assemblies it was still better than using the new rotors and not balancing them as assemblies. I hope that makes sense.A couple of notes FWIW:
- I never tried using a non-runflat tire as some others have suggested. I considered the Conti's, but ultimately went with the PSS instead. I wouldn't be surprised if the runflats, with their stiff sidewalls, magnify the issue to a degree.
- The AC Delco 177-1120 rotors that I received were marked February 2018 and they look like a newer design. Gone are the little threaded holes between the ring attachment fasteners and balancing now appears to be done by milling the edge of the rotor like you would see on a conventional iron rotor.
Anyway, I hope this helps and am happy to post up some pics that I took along the way if anyone's interested.
08-21-2019, 12:45 AM
#630
Drifting
Made a dedicated thread on this, but wanted to post it here so its tied into the ongoing thread about vibration:
I've been attacking this issue for about a month now and finally nailed down a procedure that involves balancing the wheel and rotor together utilizing a wheel spacer and tire balancing machine. It took me the greater part of a few months to even get through all the threads only to have my head spinning from all the suggestions of what the dealer should do to help us out. However, now that (most of) our ZR1s aren't under warranty anymore, this issue pretty much has left as fend for ourselves. I tried a number of different methods with limited success but finally came across one that worked.
This post is meant for new buyers that are just now discovering this issue and don't know where to start on a fix. I know I would have loved to have had something as straight forward when I started sifting through the endless threads on the topic, so that was my motivation for making it. There's a lot of redundancy in the video and repeating steps but that's only to drive home how important it is to keep everything indexed. Most of the credit for the info from this video is a culmination of everyone's input and all the threads I've sifted through. While I made this video, it's literally just a regurgitation of everything I've learned through here. For CorvetteForum, by CorvetteForum. Thanks guys, and hope this helps out some folks.
I've been attacking this issue for about a month now and finally nailed down a procedure that involves balancing the wheel and rotor together utilizing a wheel spacer and tire balancing machine. It took me the greater part of a few months to even get through all the threads only to have my head spinning from all the suggestions of what the dealer should do to help us out. However, now that (most of) our ZR1s aren't under warranty anymore, this issue pretty much has left as fend for ourselves. I tried a number of different methods with limited success but finally came across one that worked.
This post is meant for new buyers that are just now discovering this issue and don't know where to start on a fix. I know I would have loved to have had something as straight forward when I started sifting through the endless threads on the topic, so that was my motivation for making it. There's a lot of redundancy in the video and repeating steps but that's only to drive home how important it is to keep everything indexed. Most of the credit for the info from this video is a culmination of everyone's input and all the threads I've sifted through. While I made this video, it's literally just a regurgitation of everything I've learned through here. For CorvetteForum, by CorvetteForum. Thanks guys, and hope this helps out some folks.
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ccryder (02-11-2021)
08-22-2019, 01:49 AM
#631
Burning Brakes
This sounds like it was a good fix for you however I would caution that using the adapter takes us down a potentially slippery slope as it can introduce its own imbalance to the mix. Of course we want to assume it won't, but it too is a machined part that like a rotor only needs a fraction of off centering to manifest as a few grams of imbalance. We make the same assumption about the disk rotor already, that it shouldn't be the source of our imbalance. People have even said that here. It's only when we don't get satisfaction from the tire/wheel balance we are forced to look deeper, and then if not the rotor then what? The hub? Tire cupping? Truth is, it can be anything, and not the same for all of us. But it's pretty well known that Brembo disk rotors have been a problem, and that's the assumption here. So what's the reason to assume the machining of the adapter is any better? The overall balance of the assembly is based on the adapter being a part of it. So I'm glad it worked. It does mean that any time you replace a tire, repair a flat, you have to go through this again, removing the caliper, the disk rotor, mounting the adapter to get it to fit on the tire balancing machine. The question to ask, is a tire retailer really the go to service? Will the tire tech commit to providing you expert help with a waiting room full of patrons? The ZR1 isn't the first car that's given me vibrations with new tires and dynamic spin balancing. I've had them spin balanced on the car even. It helped, but is a lost art of a bygone era. And I must admit, I don't ever remember seeing a hunter road force balancer call for a wheel weight of less than 1/2 oz, which seems to be the accepted minimum. Yet the industrial balancer who balanced my disk rotors measured to the gram. So it seems like going the path of the wheel adapter is a concession to depending on the tire retailer to solve a tricky problem, and trust in perfect machining of the adapter to not introduce its own offset.
I've linked to a brake disk balancing machine. If you scroll down the page a bit, there is a tab for a video which shows how it works. The operator is seen sticking a piece of clay to the point of imbalance. Once balanced, he weighs the clay. Thanks for the video and your hard work.
https://www.jp-balancer.com/product/...-balancer.html
I've linked to a brake disk balancing machine. If you scroll down the page a bit, there is a tab for a video which shows how it works. The operator is seen sticking a piece of clay to the point of imbalance. Once balanced, he weighs the clay. Thanks for the video and your hard work.
https://www.jp-balancer.com/product/...-balancer.html
08-23-2019, 05:11 PM
#632
Instructor
Made a dedicated thread on this, but wanted to post it here so its tied into the ongoing thread about vibration:
I've been attacking this issue for about a month now and finally nailed down a procedure that involves balancing the wheel and rotor together utilizing a wheel spacer and tire balancing machine. It took me the greater part of a few months to even get through all the threads only to have my head spinning from all the suggestions of what the dealer should do to help us out. However, now that (most of) our ZR1s aren't under warranty anymore, this issue pretty much has left as fend for ourselves. I tried a number of different methods with limited success but finally came across one that worked.
This post is meant for new buyers that are just now discovering this issue and don't know where to start on a fix. I know I would have loved to have had something as straight forward when I started sifting through the endless threads on the topic, so that was my motivation for making it. There's a lot of redundancy in the video and repeating steps but that's only to drive home how important it is to keep everything indexed. Most of the credit for the info from this video is a culmination of everyone's input and all the threads I've sifted through. While I made this video, it's literally just a regurgitation of everything I've learned through here. For CorvetteForum, by CorvetteForum. Thanks guys, and hope this helps out some folks.
https://youtu.be/o7AKJtFKm3U
I've been attacking this issue for about a month now and finally nailed down a procedure that involves balancing the wheel and rotor together utilizing a wheel spacer and tire balancing machine. It took me the greater part of a few months to even get through all the threads only to have my head spinning from all the suggestions of what the dealer should do to help us out. However, now that (most of) our ZR1s aren't under warranty anymore, this issue pretty much has left as fend for ourselves. I tried a number of different methods with limited success but finally came across one that worked.
This post is meant for new buyers that are just now discovering this issue and don't know where to start on a fix. I know I would have loved to have had something as straight forward when I started sifting through the endless threads on the topic, so that was my motivation for making it. There's a lot of redundancy in the video and repeating steps but that's only to drive home how important it is to keep everything indexed. Most of the credit for the info from this video is a culmination of everyone's input and all the threads I've sifted through. While I made this video, it's literally just a regurgitation of everything I've learned through here. For CorvetteForum, by CorvetteForum. Thanks guys, and hope this helps out some folks.
https://youtu.be/o7AKJtFKm3U
09-13-2019, 09:20 AM
#633
Drifting
11-26-2019, 03:43 PM
#634
Safety Car
is there different version of the cc rotors throughout the years of the ZR1 production?
04-10-2020, 10:35 AM
#635
Le Mans Master
Well, it might be time to revisit this. When I first bought the car, I couldn't detect any vibration at all. But then I managed to curb two of the wheels. In between, I had tracked down the original owner and got back the original wheels that came with the car, so I decided to just wrap brand new PSS ZP tires on them and put them back on. Now I am feeling the slight vibration. It's too soon to tell if it's just the wheels out of balance or if there's a bigger problem with the rotors. I bought the car from a performance shop that had its own wheel/tire balancing machine, so it's entirely possible they indexed the rotors at some point. I let it slide for the last several months because it appeared to be road surface dependent, so I attributed it to road surface. But when I picked up the car a few weeks ago to have it nearby while in lock-down, I noticed it even on a smooth, freshly paved road. It was much easier to detect since I hadn't driven it for a few months.
So added myself to the poll with "2010 with slight vibration". Now my quest for a solution begins. What I may do meantime is just put the old wheels/tires back on the car for a short drive (they're still intact in storage, wheel sensors and all). If there's no vibration (I will also inspect for indexing marks), then I'll chalk it up to crappy balancing on the original wheels + new tires despite having paid extra for "road force" balancing.
Side note, does anyone know a good tire/wheel shop in the Houston area that can index the rotors to the wheels/tires? I'm not sure I trust American Wheel and Tire at this point. I bought the tires from them. The first time they balanced, they didn't clean the inner wheel surfaces so half the balancing weights fell off before I even got the wheels on the car (fell off sitting in the back of my Acadia and were laying on the cardboard).
Thanks.
So added myself to the poll with "2010 with slight vibration". Now my quest for a solution begins. What I may do meantime is just put the old wheels/tires back on the car for a short drive (they're still intact in storage, wheel sensors and all). If there's no vibration (I will also inspect for indexing marks), then I'll chalk it up to crappy balancing on the original wheels + new tires despite having paid extra for "road force" balancing.
Side note, does anyone know a good tire/wheel shop in the Houston area that can index the rotors to the wheels/tires? I'm not sure I trust American Wheel and Tire at this point. I bought the tires from them. The first time they balanced, they didn't clean the inner wheel surfaces so half the balancing weights fell off before I even got the wheels on the car (fell off sitting in the back of my Acadia and were laying on the cardboard).
Thanks.
04-15-2020, 07:59 PM
#636
Drifting
Well, it might be time to revisit this. When I first bought the car, I couldn't detect any vibration at all. But then I managed to curb two of the wheels. In between, I had tracked down the original owner and got back the original wheels that came with the car, so I decided to just wrap brand new PSS ZP tires on them and put them back on. Now I am feeling the slight vibration. It's too soon to tell if it's just the wheels out of balance or if there's a bigger problem with the rotors. I bought the car from a performance shop that had its own wheel/tire balancing machine, so it's entirely possible they indexed the rotors at some point. I let it slide for the last several months because it appeared to be road surface dependent, so I attributed it to road surface. But when I picked up the car a few weeks ago to have it nearby while in lock-down, I noticed it even on a smooth, freshly paved road. It was much easier to detect since I hadn't driven it for a few months.
So added myself to the poll with "2010 with slight vibration". Now my quest for a solution begins. What I may do meantime is just put the old wheels/tires back on the car for a short drive (they're still intact in storage, wheel sensors and all). If there's no vibration (I will also inspect for indexing marks), then I'll chalk it up to crappy balancing on the original wheels + new tires despite having paid extra for "road force" balancing.
Side note, does anyone know a good tire/wheel shop in the Houston area that can index the rotors to the wheels/tires? I'm not sure I trust American Wheel and Tire at this point. I bought the tires from them. The first time they balanced, they didn't clean the inner wheel surfaces so half the balancing weights fell off before I even got the wheels on the car (fell off sitting in the back of my Acadia and were laying on the cardboard).
Thanks.
So added myself to the poll with "2010 with slight vibration". Now my quest for a solution begins. What I may do meantime is just put the old wheels/tires back on the car for a short drive (they're still intact in storage, wheel sensors and all). If there's no vibration (I will also inspect for indexing marks), then I'll chalk it up to crappy balancing on the original wheels + new tires despite having paid extra for "road force" balancing.
Side note, does anyone know a good tire/wheel shop in the Houston area that can index the rotors to the wheels/tires? I'm not sure I trust American Wheel and Tire at this point. I bought the tires from them. The first time they balanced, they didn't clean the inner wheel surfaces so half the balancing weights fell off before I even got the wheels on the car (fell off sitting in the back of my Acadia and were laying on the cardboard).
Thanks.
I guarantee that anywhere you go, you will have to explain like 10 times what you want done, and even then you will get all these raised eyebrows and drama from every person you talk to about how theyve never heard of this so it can't be true. That's by far the most annoying part of ALL OF THIS is that its so rare and unknown to nearly every vehicle that you spend most of your time and energy just simply explaining what even needs done.
As far as who will do it, you're saying the index part like it's a quick process. you can easily index the wheels yourself, but getting the balance of the wheels and rotors right so that they can be indexed...well...there in lies all the time and effort.
The two schools of thought here are either (A) throw the rotors on a tire balancer or even more preferable a balancer from an industrial balancing company. Get the numbers and write them on the rotor hub so you'll always have it. Then counterbalance the tires to the rotors. Or (B), attach the two together and throw them on a tire balancing machine, such as in the video I posted before. Regardless of the method you chose, you will spend at least 15 to 20 minutes explaining what needs done and it still likely won't be done right.
Its a huge losing battle that has me ready to sell my CC rotors and calipers and simply throw on some Z06 hardware. It's still a shame to this day that such a great car has to have such a poop stain on it's reputation as this. Not everyone will experience it, but if you're one of the unlucky ones (such as us), it completely drains all the joy the car brings.
04-15-2020, 09:41 PM
#637
Le Mans Master
Ahh so the fun starts all over again!
I guarantee that anywhere you go, you will have to explain like 10 times what you want done, and even then you will get all these raised eyebrows and drama from every person you talk to about how theyve never heard of this so it can't be true. That's by far the most annoying part of ALL OF THIS is that its so rare and unknown to nearly every vehicle that you spend most of your time and energy just simply explaining what even needs done.
As far as who will do it, you're saying the index part like it's a quick process. you can easily index the wheels yourself, but getting the balance of the wheels and rotors right so that they can be indexed...well...there in lies all the time and effort.
The two schools of thought here are either (A) throw the rotors on a tire balancer or even more preferable a balancer from an industrial balancing company. Get the numbers and write them on the rotor hub so you'll always have it. Then counterbalance the tires to the rotors. Or (B), attach the two together and throw them on a tire balancing machine, such as in the video I posted before. Regardless of the method you chose, you will spend at least 15 to 20 minutes explaining what needs done and it still likely won't be done right.
Its a huge losing battle that has me ready to sell my CC rotors and calipers and simply throw on some Z06 hardware. It's still a shame to this day that such a great car has to have such a poop stain on it's reputation as this. Not everyone will experience it, but if you're one of the unlucky ones (such as us), it completely drains all the joy the car brings.
I guarantee that anywhere you go, you will have to explain like 10 times what you want done, and even then you will get all these raised eyebrows and drama from every person you talk to about how theyve never heard of this so it can't be true. That's by far the most annoying part of ALL OF THIS is that its so rare and unknown to nearly every vehicle that you spend most of your time and energy just simply explaining what even needs done.
As far as who will do it, you're saying the index part like it's a quick process. you can easily index the wheels yourself, but getting the balance of the wheels and rotors right so that they can be indexed...well...there in lies all the time and effort.
The two schools of thought here are either (A) throw the rotors on a tire balancer or even more preferable a balancer from an industrial balancing company. Get the numbers and write them on the rotor hub so you'll always have it. Then counterbalance the tires to the rotors. Or (B), attach the two together and throw them on a tire balancing machine, such as in the video I posted before. Regardless of the method you chose, you will spend at least 15 to 20 minutes explaining what needs done and it still likely won't be done right.
Its a huge losing battle that has me ready to sell my CC rotors and calipers and simply throw on some Z06 hardware. It's still a shame to this day that such a great car has to have such a poop stain on it's reputation as this. Not everyone will experience it, but if you're one of the unlucky ones (such as us), it completely drains all the joy the car brings.
04-20-2020, 09:02 PM
#638
Drifting
Mine has been minimized by using the process in the video I posted but it still isn't gone above 70ish. Some days it's more obvious than others.
Its got me so annoyed after brand new tires and wheels that I'm all but ready to throw Z06 calipers/rotors on. Already priced them out at just a shade over $2100. A lot of money but a small price to pay if it finally ends all this BS.
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chassed (05-09-2020)
09-02-2020, 09:11 PM
#639
For sure man. Best of luck with it.
Mine has been minimized by using the process in the video I posted but it still isn't gone above 70ish. Some days it's more obvious than others.
Its got me so annoyed after brand new tires and wheels that I'm all but ready to throw Z06 calipers/rotors on. Already priced them out at just a shade over $2100. A lot of money but a small price to pay if it finally ends all this BS.
Mine has been minimized by using the process in the video I posted but it still isn't gone above 70ish. Some days it's more obvious than others.
Its got me so annoyed after brand new tires and wheels that I'm all but ready to throw Z06 calipers/rotors on. Already priced them out at just a shade over $2100. A lot of money but a small price to pay if it finally ends all this BS.
10-01-2020, 07:16 PM
#640
Drifting
Nope. Reached my breaking point late this summer and said enough is enough. That one single issue single handedly drained all the joy out of owning that car for me.
I sold it and have been sleeping like a baby ever since.
As more and more of these garage queens start to sell and change hands to people that will actually drive them, I have no doubt we're gonna see a resurgence in this issue.
The fix does lessen it, but it didn't eliminate it enough for my liking. Good luck to any other owners that run into the issue.
I sold it and have been sleeping like a baby ever since.
As more and more of these garage queens start to sell and change hands to people that will actually drive them, I have no doubt we're gonna see a resurgence in this issue.
The fix does lessen it, but it didn't eliminate it enough for my liking. Good luck to any other owners that run into the issue.
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seamus2154 (05-30-2023)