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Rolled Curb driveway curb ramps ?

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Old 11-24-2015, 03:16 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Nick 02 Z06 View Post

Hey Nick.
Do you leave those there permanently or just put down and pick up each time you take the car out?


Sorry, didn't realize it was an old thread.
I tried the eco tiles at my office and I even anchored them to the concrete & street, but after some heavy rain run off going down the street (like a river) and snow plowing, they washed away! i gave up and don't park on my own driveway when I take the Z to work. Ever since they repaved the street, I can't get it into the driveway. The front splitter scrapes 1/2 way up the apron! The street pitches down more now towards the driveway and the apron angles upwards creating a 'V' from the street to the apron.
I spoke with the building dept. and got nowhere with it. There's like a 5-5.5" discrepancy now that's I can't correct.
Oh well.

Last edited by Dr.Ron; 11-24-2015 at 03:31 PM.
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Old 11-24-2015, 03:22 PM   #22
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This works better with a three car wide apron, but it will work...approach the apron parallel to it and drive the tire closest to the drive on to the apron and then begin to turn into the driveway gradually; making sure you have enough driveway to complete the turn in. Backing out is the same process, nose pointed to the garage, turning so the rear tire becomes parallel to the apron, once both tires and the car are positioned parallel to the apron, proceed to drive off the driveway. PM me if you want to have a separate discussion.

Originally Posted by Silver7 View Post
I know this is an old post, but I am in the same situation with the rolled curbs here in McKinney. I just bought a C6, but am a couple of weeks away getting it, and have been wondering how the rolled curbs will work out. My neighbor across the street has a C4 and scrapes when backing out to the street.
Can you tell me what you ended up doing? Angling in? Some kind of ramp? Backing in?
Thanks for the response.
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Old 11-24-2015, 04:03 PM   #23
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Most homes in the Houston area have a steep grade from the gutter up to the actual invisible Building Line of the property. They do this to improve drainage and reduce flooding potential.

That being said, you can hire a good paving contractor to re-pave half your driveway for about $2k. They can relieve the grade by starting the decline further back, reducing the grade.

I live in a very flat part of Houston and my driveway is insane. I almost scrap my F150 pulling in, but it's only steep for that first 15-feet up to the Building Line. I had them rip it back to 30-feet and re-pour at a even grade. I can now pull my C6Z into the driveway without any scrapping.

Seems expensive to some people. Is it worth it to you? I answered that question in about 10 seconds.
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