AzDave47

to brake duct inlet at the air dam. I know Katech makes this for transition from their ZR1 style splitter, but I have the stock splitter. I have already installed the cooling ducts from the outlet of the stock Z06 brake ducts to my AFX rotors, but need more air into those as the air dam does not seem to direct enough air to the inlet.

Does anyone make this? I did use the search function and only found the Katech setup

2k Cobra

Have you seen the ones where the guys pulled the fog lights and ran ducts from them to the calipers?

Haven't heard any complaints on that setup.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...brication.html

pump2003

I am looking for ones that pull from the Stock ZR1 splitter.

AzDave47

As my original post indicated, Katech makes one for their ZR-1 type splitter and it would probably work for you.

I need one for my stock Z06 splitter.

AzDave47

Since this is also street driven, I'd like to keep my fog lights. Also I've read pros/cons on just installing fans in the stock brake cooling ducts, that's why I'd like to just use a duct to get fresh air from the stock splitter back to the inlet of the stock front brake ducts.

morris

I have the lg ones and they seem extremely effective

AzDave47

Please explain more.

Bill Dearborn

Not sure how much the stock air dam under the car deflects at speed but that is what builds the pressure under the nose and forces air into the duct. Maybe stiffening the air dam with some stiff plastic pieces behind it might increase air flow into the ducts. One thing that I think limits the stock ducts is the small outlet. I purchased the LG ducts since they have a 3 inch outlet Vs the stock 2.5 inch outlet.

Another way to approach it maybe to use some clear plastic sheeting to build a duct that fits under the fascia and runs from the stock duct opening to the opening in the front splitter. Would be flat/wide and probably no more than an inch or inch and a half tall but would direct air to the opening on the bottom of the fascia.

There can be a fair amount of pressure in front of the air dam. I had duct hose mounted in the front air dam of my 86 and ran it along the supports under the car to a place behind the wheel bearing. There was enough air flow through those hoses I could see a puff of brake dust shoot out from the front wheels every time I hit the brake pedal at speed.

Bill

AzDave47

Bill, I was thinking I might use some aluminum to create a duct directly from the three splitter openings back to the duct inlet. I know that the air dam is "supposed" to create a high pressure area, but it doesn't seem to be doing too much for me.

I'm hoping "Morris" will explain his comment because I don't understand it at all.

morris

Sorry here check out these from lg Motorsports http://www.lgmotorsports.com/G2-Spindle-Ducts my cars brakes run a lot! Cooler with them than when it was stock and I was tracking the car

AzDave47

Do those go to the splitter at the front or to the air dam that is located 2' back under the chassis? I already have the ducting from the air dam to the spindle, but I need better flow into the duct inlet at the air dam.

morris

it goes to the air damn, I am surprised that you already have the ducting to the spindle and it isnt cutting it for you. This made a drastic improvement on my car

AzDave47

When I put in the ducting, air dam to spindles, I also went to track pads. Their higher friction is better for stopping but generates much more heat than the factory pads did.

In the next couple of weeks I will be disassembling the right front as I think I am also pushing out wheel bearing grease. So far the ball joint boots seem to be fine with the AFX shield keeping the big heat away.

Unfortunately, when I instruct at HPDE's I sometimes have student sessions right after my session so I don't get any time to drive around and cool the brakes and hubs down.

Screamin Z

Im 95% sure there is no kit for what you are looking for.

Option 1. Buy a splitter/duct work (katech or others)

Option 2. Foglight inlet, (Finspeed is working on a mold) or DIY as mentioned before.

Option 3. DIY and cut some holes in the area behind the front grille and route some duct work.

I went route 3. I believe at high speeds my air dam was deflecting enough to not cause any high pressure build up to cool the brakes. That was even with spindle ducts. Not a good thing. Here is what the holes look like

AzDave47

Do you have more Pics or a DIY on your install. That may work for me. Alternatively I may use some aluminum to make a duct from the splitter holes to the air dam.

Painrace

The stock air dam creates a lot of front end lift trying to get a little air to the brakes. If you need more air, which I think you do, you are going to have to get it from the front of the car as others suggest. I recommend getting rid of the air dam and chose your method of getting air from the front. Unfortuinately, the more you work or pay the better the system will work.

The fog light route is probably the best but the Katech system is all I need with big Brimbo brakes.

Good luck!

Jim

morris

I am not sure if this will be any better than the lg spindle duct kit but this looks like what you are talking about http://www.c5racer.com/catalog/corve...rtray-kit.html

Screamin Z

I do not have any pics of the DIY.. I believe forum member JDILLON had a write up of this. Search for his posts.

AzDave47

I had looked at that, but Katech implies you need their ZR-1 type splitter, undertray (and the reinforcement for the splitter) to use their brake duct. Where I live, there is no way I have clearance for the ZR1 type splitter. Spending $2K to rip it off on curbs is not in the cards. I do standing mile events, trapping at ~173 MPH, so I would definitely need the splitter reinforcement.

Thanks for the input.

Bill Dearborn

I have the LG ducts with the 3 inch exit and ducting to the spindles. The brakes seem to cool less than they did without the spindle ducts. Cracked both AFX Heavy Duty Rotor Rings in 5 days of use which is only 2 more days than I got with the stock rotors. I have seen the exact same type of setup on a C4 all out race car that worked well. Picked up air from the area above the air dam and ducted it to the spindle. I know air is getting through the ducts because I had an issue with a pad not releasing from the rotor last year which caused the brake fluid to boil if I was running at 90 mph or below for some time but it didn't boil if I was running over 100. Took some head scratching trying to figure out what was happening until I saw the unusual brake pad wear.

Bill