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[Z06] I want to throw some boost or nitrous at my z06, what do I need to upgrade next?

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Old 01-30-2012, 06:26 PM
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NA-Z06
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Default I want to throw some boost or nitrous at my z06, what do I need to upgrade next?

I have a Nitrous NANO system that I haven't installed yet, but the more I think about it the more I prefer going boosted... Either way I figure I have to upgrade my bottom end, or do I??

I have a Lingenfelter 630 package, with MAHLE aluminum forged pistons and a RPM 4L65E auto conversion. I know I don't have to worry about my driveline anytime soon.

So, I have the forged pistons, what do I have to upgrade next? My goal is to run low 9s, I know Rodney (RPM) is running great times with his completely stock LS7 engine, but every time he mentions it he makes sure it is known that he is on borrowed time! I don't want to have to worry about my bottom end possibly going out every time I go out for a run.

Also, I have an idea of what the car will run on boost, anyone have an idea what she'd run on a 150 shot? I am running 6.5X = LOW 10 now on pump gas, and my best to date 60ft is a 1.39...
Old 01-30-2012, 06:43 PM
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As long as the compression is stock or lower you should be able to throw 6-7psi at it and gain 130-160hp.
Old 01-30-2012, 07:08 PM
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Put a blower on it and run E85 then you can run real boost without worry.
Old 01-30-2012, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by nivardo
I have a Nitrous NANO system that I haven't installed yet, but the more I think about it the more I prefer going boosted... Either way I figure I have to upgrade my bottom end, or do I??

I have a Lingenfelter 630 package, with MAHLE aluminum forged pistons and a RPM 4L65E auto conversion. I know I don't have to worry about my driveline anytime soon.

So, I have the forged pistons, what do I have to upgrade next? My goal is to run low 9s, I know Rodney (RPM) is running great times with his completely stock LS7 engine, but every time he mentions it he makes sure it is known that he is on borrowed time! I don't want to have to worry about my bottom end possibly going out every time I go out for a run.

Also, I have an idea of what the car will run on boost, anyone have an idea what she'd run on a 150 shot? I am running 6.5X = LOW 10 now on pump gas, and my best to date 60ft is a 1.39...
if you supercharge it I would imagine your will have issues since it is probably 11.5-1 CR now...wont be able to run the blower like it "should" be run to get maximum hp. if you put a supercharger and run 6 lbs, I don't think you will get the power/performance of a 150 shot of nitrous give that your setup is high CR now. I would throw the nitruos on it, get it tuned, MAYBE have to upgrade fuel pump and pull a couple degrees of timing out. If you want more or find yourself filling the bottle weekly, then maybe consider a supercharger...but...

To run faster than your car on a 150 shot the way it is (which should be 9.3-9.5 easily on a drag radial considering your probably 10.1-10.2 now with the auto), your going to need a lot of boost and a very well thought out supercharger system. Its DEFINATLEY not going to be "slap a blower on and go racing" with your car. You would want to consider a whloe new foged shortblock NOT using the LS7 as a platform, but rather a RHS (427-468 cube) or sleeved LS2 block (427 cube) and go from there. You will need a serious blower to outrun your current setup on a 150 shot...that much is for sure. Its doable, but your talking a WHLOE NEW SET UP...which is fine..we all mod and remod. I just hate to see you take the combo you have out just ro run a blower.

YES...you can run a blower as it sits with little boost (6-7 lbs).,.,.but why? If your going to supercharge it, do it right and get 800+rwhp and go racing. Your talking a ton of money to do this compared to the nitrous route.

Try the bottle, if you dont like it, pull the nitrous kit and sell it, and slap a blower on and try that.
Old 01-30-2012, 07:29 PM
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"DRIVER Mod"! That should have been your first mod.
Old 01-30-2012, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Unreal
As long as the compression is stock or lower you should be able to throw 6-7psi at it and gain 130-160hp.
I hadn't considered compression! Wow I know... But what if I run on E85? I know I'll have to upgrade pumps/injectors..
Originally Posted by 355Spider
Put a blower on it and run E85 then you can run real boost without worry.

Originally Posted by StreetRacingGuy
if you supercharge it I would imagine your will have issues since it is probably 11.5-1 CR now...wont be able to run the blower like it "should" be run to get maximum hp. if you put a supercharger and run 6 lbs, I don't think you will get the power/performance of a 150 shot of nitrous give that your setup is high CR now. I would throw the nitruos on it, get it tuned, MAYBE have to upgrade fuel pump and pull a couple degrees of timing out. If you want more or find yourself filling the bottle weekly, then maybe consider a supercharger...but...

To run faster than your car on a 150 shot the way it is (which should be 9.3-9.5 easily on a drag radial considering your probably 10.1-10.2 now with the auto), your going to need a lot of boost and a very well thought out supercharger system. Its DEFINATLEY not going to be "slap a blower on and go racing" with your car. You would want to consider a whloe new foged shortblock NOT using the LS7 as a platform, but rather a RHS (427-468 cube) or sleeved LS2 block (427 cube) and go from there. You will need a serious blower to outrun your current setup on a 150 shot...that much is for sure. Its doable, but your talking a WHLOE NEW SET UP...which is fine..we all mod and remod. I just hate to see you take the combo you have out just ro run a blower.

YES...you can run a blower as it sits with little boost (6-7 lbs).,.,.but why? If your going to supercharge it, do it right and get 800+rwhp and go racing. Your talking a ton of money to do this compared to the nitrous route.

Try the bottle, if you dont like it, pull the nitrous kit and sell it, and slap a blower on and try that.
Very well said sir! Thanks for the pointers! I was thinking about throwing on a d1sc like Rodney has and trying for a 9.3-9.5, but there's quite a bit more in that car, I know... So lets say I decide on a 200 shot, I know first I have to worry about it hooking! But I'm also thinking about 15" wheels with the LG spindles, so that may be beside the point... What I'm getting at is, what's the next weak link in the LS7? Valves-check, pistons- check. So what's the next thing that I need to worry about breaking? Crank? Rods? Bearings?

Originally Posted by 63Corvette
"DRIVER Mod"! That should have been your first mod.
Not sure I understand? Is that a joke about it having an auto?

Last edited by NA-Z06; 01-30-2012 at 07:47 PM. Reason: Spelling
Old 01-30-2012, 08:43 PM
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How much for your Nano kit? ; )
Old 01-31-2012, 07:58 AM
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Very well said sir! Thanks for the pointers! I was thinking about throwing on a d1sc like Rodney has and trying for a 9.3-9.5, but there's quite a bit more in that car, I know... So lets say I decide on a 200 shot, I know first I have to worry about it hooking! But I'm also thinking about 15" wheels with the LG spindles, so that may be beside the point... What I'm getting at is, what's the next weak link in the LS7? Valves-check, pistons- check. So what's the next thing that I need to worry about breaking? Crank? Rods? Bearings?

Hooking can be handled with progressive controller for nitrous-

Don't need 15in spindles, thats for race cars-

You can be mid to low 9's with 17 or 18 in DR (been done lots)-

Your car with nitrous is fine, doesnt need any more upgrading other than possibly fuel pump and PERHAPS standalone fuel system if you want 200 shot and need race fuel in stand alone-

I wouldnt think you will break anything on that motor with a 150-200 shot tuned correctly with good fuel-

MAY need to restall converter if you going with 150-200 shot-

IF you went supercharger route with the kind of power you want (substantially more than H/C/I/E auto conversion you have now), you would want a whole other motor built for boos and NOT reuse LS7 block (talk to some shops about how fast you want to go and how much faster you want to be than low 10's you are at now and I bet they recommend a fresh block build for you). Your talking about dropping $20K more on this car easily. No sense in doing that since you got a hell of a deal on an "allready" fast car. Might want to consider selling your car and starting over with a more stock Z at that point.

I think to build on what you have makes more sense than the blower route.

200 shot that is hooked well (tire and nitrous controller, proper converter, right fuel) in addition to your current combination will be BOTTOM 9's and easy to drive.
Old 01-31-2012, 08:34 AM
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If you are going to butcher a car with all these mods why start with a z06 in the first place?Go get an old car with lightweight add a blower and nitrous to a potent big block and the trick is done.To take a z06 and ruin it is a shame!
Old 01-31-2012, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by GreekPT
How much for your Nano kit? ; )
I think I've decided on keeping it!
Old 01-31-2012, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by StreetRacingGuy
Very well said sir! Thanks for the pointers! I was thinking about throwing on a d1sc like Rodney has and trying for a 9.3-9.5, but there's quite a bit more in that car, I know... So lets say I decide on a 200 shot, I know first I have to worry about it hooking! But I'm also thinking about 15" wheels with the LG spindles, so that may be beside the point... What I'm getting at is, what's the next weak link in the LS7? Valves-check, pistons- check. So what's the next thing that I need to worry about breaking? Crank? Rods? Bearings?

Hooking can be handled with progressive controller for nitrous-

Don't need 15in spindles, thats for race cars-

You can be mid to low 9's with 17 or 18 in DR (been done lots)-

Your car with nitrous is fine, doesnt need any more upgrading other than possibly fuel pump and PERHAPS standalone fuel system if you want 200 shot and need race fuel in stand alone-

I wouldnt think you will break anything on that motor with a 150-200 shot tuned correctly with good fuel-

MAY need to restall converter if you going with 150-200 shot-

IF you went supercharger route with the kind of power you want (substantially more than H/C/I/E auto conversion you have now), you would want a whole other motor built for boos and NOT reuse LS7 block (talk to some shops about how fast you want to go and how much faster you want to be than low 10's you are at now and I bet they recommend a fresh block build for you). Your talking about dropping $20K more on this car easily. No sense in doing that since you got a hell of a deal on an "allready" fast car. Might want to consider selling your car and starting over with a more stock Z at that point.

I think to build on what you have makes more sense than the blower route.

200 shot that is hooked well (tire and nitrous controller, proper converter, right fuel) in addition to your current combination will be BOTTOM 9's and easy to drive.
The only reason I'd go with 15s is to get it to hook on the street. Your right, it does quite well at the track! I do already have a micro edge controller with the add in to make it a progressive shot. Everything you said about changing up the set up for a SC makes sense. I will keep it as it is. I do have 60ln injectors as well as aeromotive fuel rails standing by in case I need it. As well as a boost a pump, hopefully that'll do.

1 more question, anyone know how I can hide a standalone fuel system?! Is the one that nitrous Dave sells the only plug and play system for our cars? Thanks again for all the help bud!
Old 01-31-2012, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by camirocz
If you are going to butcher a car with all these mods why start with a z06 in the first place?Go get an old car with lightweight add a blower and nitrous to a potent big block and the trick is done.To take a z06 and ruin it is a shame!
To each their own. You do know this forum is basically for owners that MOD their Corvette right?! LOL
Old 01-31-2012, 09:09 PM
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1 more question, anyone know how I can hide a standalone fuel system?! Is the one that nitrous Dave sells the only plug and play system for our cars? Thanks again for all the help bud![/QUOTE]

Nitrodave has the best stuff...their standalone is very nice. However, you have to make a decision on wet or dry...for 200 shot its kind of a toss up on C6 Z06's...I personally prefer wet BUT people are tuning 200 on dry shots too. I would talk to a good nitrous tuner, like Carlos from Vett Air...see if he would go wet or dry. Direct port is nice but not really needed on 150-200 shot. A simple TB plate system from NX seems to be a great piece for a we system, and then you can use a standalone (about $800 option) to run low pressure fuel side and use 116 octane (low pressure = great for tuning) and keep 93 in the tank. If you did a dry system with 200 shot and wanted race gas, you would need race gas in the tank.

200 hp throttle body plate system, nano assist, edge controller, standalone low fuel pressure system with 116 octane, good tuner, NGK TR6 or TR55 plugs, MAYBE tighten up the torque converter 200-300(find out after putting it on the dyno on the bottle).....and you will have a monster. With a good auto and tires, you will be HARD to beat on the street from a dig, that is for sure.

What kind of axles do you have in the rear? stock? If you hook on nitrous, stock ones will shatter. Period. Your going to have the power to run 1.3x short times with the auto and a ramped/controlled 200 shot with a good enough tire....gonna be quite a shock to the rear!!! Need to think about rear end/gears/axles when doing all this too....I assume stock gears in the rear now?
Old 01-31-2012, 10:30 PM
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With that 60ft, you only need a 100shot on top of that 630 package ton run 9s, perfectly safe with those forged pistons too.
Old 01-31-2012, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by StreetRacingGuy
1 more question, anyone know how I can hide a standalone fuel system?! Is the one that nitrous Dave sells the only plug and play system for our cars? Thanks again for all the help bud!
Nitrodave has the best stuff...their standalone is very nice. However, you have to make a decision on wet or dry...for 200 shot its kind of a toss up on C6 Z06's...I personally prefer wet BUT people are tuning 200 on dry shots too. I would talk to a good nitrous tuner, like Carlos from Vett Air...see if he would go wet or dry. Direct port is nice but not really needed on 150-200 shot. A simple TB plate system from NX seems to be a great piece for a we system, and then you can use a standalone (about $800 option) to run low pressure fuel side and use 116 octane (low pressure = great for tuning) and keep 93 in the tank. If you did a dry system with 200 shot and wanted race gas, you would need race gas in the tank.

200 hp throttle body plate system, nano assist, edge controller, standalone low fuel pressure system with 116 octane, good tuner, NGK TR6 or TR55 plugs, MAYBE tighten up the torque converter 200-300(find out after putting it on the dyno on the bottle).....and you will have a monster. With a good auto and tires, you will be HARD to beat on the street from a dig, that is for sure.

What kind of axles do you have in the rear? stock? If you hook on nitrous, stock ones will shatter. Period. Your going to have the power to run 1.3x short times with the auto and a ramped/controlled 200 shot with a good enough tire....gonna be quite a shock to the rear!!! Need to think about rear end/gears/axles when doing all this too....I assume stock gears in the rear now?[/QUOTE]

Your right, might as well do it once, a stand alone from nitrous Dave might be in my future. I was actually thinking of going with a money maker kit... I spoke to nitrous outlet about it before and I think he said its not quite a direct port but its a step up from the plate system. As far as wet or dry, I had always heard wet was better, I guess I'll ask my tuner what may be better for my combo. C16 in the stand alone and 93 in the tank sounds like my best option, I like the fact of bein able to jump in and run it without havin to make sure I load up with c16 in the tank... So I'm leaning towards wet already.. How many spraying runs, roughly, will the c16 in the stand alone last?

Axles? Not quite sure what is on the car, I'll have to call and ask TJ about that. Gears, 3.73, I think I'll be good with those, you? And I'll have to ask him again about any upgrades the diff might need, or hopefully he'll chime in
Old 02-01-2012, 07:25 PM
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How many spraying runs, roughly, will the c16 in the stand alone last?


DEPENDS..IF ITS A FULL GALLON, IT WILL OUTLAST A 20LB BOTTLE BY QUITE A BIT! I WOULD BET YOU WILL GET OVER A DOZEN RUNS FROM A GALLON AT 150-200 SHOT LEVEL.

Axles? Not quite sure what is on the car, I'll have to call and ask TJ about that. Gears, 3.73, I think I'll be good with those, you? And I'll have to ask him again about any upgrades the diff might need, or hopefully he'll chime in [/QUOTE]

3.73 IS THE MOST GEAR YOU WOULD WANT. I WOULD NOT SPEND MORE MONEY ON SWAPPING BACK TO STOCK, BUT DEFINATELY DONT NEED ANY MORE GEAR WITH THE NITROUS! IN FACT IF YOU REALLY WANTED TO HOOK YOUR IDEA OF 15 IN RIMS/TIRES SET UP WOULD WORK FINE WITH THE 3.73 AND 200 SHOT...THAT WOULD BE A NASTY COMBO...BUT YOU WOULD NEED SOME SERIOUS AXELS AND REAR END WORK TO KEEP IT TOGETHER
Old 02-01-2012, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by StreetRacingGuy
How many spraying runs, roughly, will the c16 in the stand alone last?


DEPENDS..IF ITS A FULL GALLON, IT WILL OUTLAST A 20LB BOTTLE BY QUITE A BIT! I WOULD BET YOU WILL GET OVER A DOZEN RUNS FROM A GALLON AT 150-200 SHOT LEVEL.

Axles? Not quite sure what is on the car, I'll have to call and ask TJ about that. Gears, 3.73, I think I'll be good with those, you? And I'll have to ask him again about any upgrades the diff might need, or hopefully he'll chime in
3.73 IS THE MOST GEAR YOU WOULD WANT. I WOULD NOT SPEND MORE MONEY ON SWAPPING BACK TO STOCK, BUT DEFINATELY DONT NEED ANY MORE GEAR WITH THE NITROUS! IN FACT IF YOU REALLY WANTED TO HOOK YOUR IDEA OF 15 IN RIMS/TIRES SET UP WOULD WORK FINE WITH THE 3.73 AND 200 SHOT...THAT WOULD BE A NASTY COMBO...BUT YOU WOULD NEED SOME SERIOUS AXELS AND REAR END WORK TO KEEP IT TOGETHER[/QUOTE]

Nice. Spoke to RPM again earlier. He let me know that my car was built with 300m axles. He said I'm good to go!

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Old 02-01-2012, 10:00 PM
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A cam with that much lift should warrant a look.at.the.heads for sure if you didnt already do it when uh did the pistons. How many miles on the motor? On.the cam?
Old 02-01-2012, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by triblk6spd
A cam with that much lift should warrant a look.at.the.heads for sure if you didnt already do it when uh did the pistons. How many miles on the motor? On.the cam?
Lingenfelter's did the whole package/car. They removed, disassembled, and reasessmbled the motor so nothing needs to be checked for clearance. The original owner wanted an auto, so they had RPM to their 4L65E conversion with Vigilante converter and 3.73 gear rear upgrade with 300m axels. The car was done right for sure. They put in better pistons (dont know why) when the buttoned the car back up.

This thing has allready gone low 10's before the last round of little mods (FAST intake and other minor things) and gets 1.4 short times as it sits. Its probably a 10.0-10.3 car in good air on drag radials now. With a 150-200 shot tuned right the car will be silly fast.

The car could definately pick up power with more CR and E85, etc...BUT nitrous fixes everything cheaply For $1500 in nitrous parts and install and tune, the owner won't need to worry about extracting every last little hp for huge $$$...just pill it up! lol
Old 02-01-2012, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by StreetRacingGuy
Lingenfelter's did the whole package/car. They removed, disassembled, and reasessmbled the motor so nothing needs to be checked for clearance. The original owner wanted an auto, so they had RPM to their 4L65E conversion with Vigilante converter and 3.73 gear rear upgrade with 300m axels. The car was done right for sure. They put in better pistons (dont know why) when the buttoned the car back up.

This thing has allready gone low 10's before the last round of little mods (FAST intake and other minor things) and gets 1.4 short times as it sits. Its probably a 10.0-10.3 car in good air on drag radials now. With a 150-200 shot tuned right the car will be silly fast.

The car could definately pick up power with more CR and E85, etc...BUT nitrous fixes everything cheaply For $1500 in nitrous parts and install and tune, the owner won't need to worry about extracting every last little hp for huge $$$...just pill it up! lol
Well it does have a FAST intake. I was thinking of going with a 102 tb and electronic water pump, but like you just mentioned, just pill it up and save some cash!

Last edited by NA-Z06; 02-02-2012 at 07:39 AM.



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