[Z06] Conversion of Early Dry Sump (8qt) to the Late model (10½qt)
03-03-2012, 10:58 AM
#21
Melting Slicks
In the process of installing the OEM '09 tank into my '07 Z and have discovered a problem. The '09 plumbing harness fittings that attach to the rocker arm covers are different. I purchased the '09 plumbing harness to make the install easy but it has become anything but. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
03-04-2012, 01:48 PM
#22
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Three images are still 'pending approval' in the photo gallery before I can upload. They will answer your questions.
There are two 'air tubes' (as worded in the service manual) that have fittings on the top of the dry sump oil reservoir. The one closest to the fire wall (rear port) is the 'PCV dirty air tube.' (The front port is the PCV fresh air port). The small dry sump tank only has one air tube at the top of the tank. It is a dirty air tube because it is 'T'ed' to the dirty air tube on the main tank per service manual illustrations.
My concern is splicing into the dirty air tube plumbing harness that is fabricated out of black PVC. If that plumbing harness gets much oil in it at extreme temps and pressures, will my splice hold or will there be oil all over my engine compartment?; will it adversly affect oil pressures. It is one thing to clamp rubber tubing and quite another to clamp PVC.
The air tube plumbing harnesses are fabricated with the end clamps and 'T' clamps. So they can withstand the pressure and heat generated.
Do you understand my concern?
I'm beginning to think that I should have purchased the Lingenfelter tank. But my car is still under the GMPP warranty and will be until 10/2013. Perhaps I should let the dealer do the install? It looks to be such a simple R&R project except for this %$&@# issue!
There are two 'air tubes' (as worded in the service manual) that have fittings on the top of the dry sump oil reservoir. The one closest to the fire wall (rear port) is the 'PCV dirty air tube.' (The front port is the PCV fresh air port). The small dry sump tank only has one air tube at the top of the tank. It is a dirty air tube because it is 'T'ed' to the dirty air tube on the main tank per service manual illustrations.
My concern is splicing into the dirty air tube plumbing harness that is fabricated out of black PVC. If that plumbing harness gets much oil in it at extreme temps and pressures, will my splice hold or will there be oil all over my engine compartment?; will it adversly affect oil pressures. It is one thing to clamp rubber tubing and quite another to clamp PVC.
The air tube plumbing harnesses are fabricated with the end clamps and 'T' clamps. So they can withstand the pressure and heat generated.
Do you understand my concern?
I'm beginning to think that I should have purchased the Lingenfelter tank. But my car is still under the GMPP warranty and will be until 10/2013. Perhaps I should let the dealer do the install? It looks to be such a simple R&R project except for this %$&@# issue!
03-04-2012, 02:44 PM
#23
Melting Slicks
Three images are still 'pending approval' in the photo gallery before I can upload. They will answer your questions.
There are two 'air tubes' (as worded in the service manual) that have fittings on the top of the dry sump oil reservoir. The one closest to the fire wall (rear port) is the 'PCV dirty air tube.' (The front port is the PCV fresh air port). The small dry sump tank only has one air tube at the top of the tank. It is a dirty air tube because it is 'T'ed' to the dirty air tube on the main tank per service manual illustrations.
My concern is splicing into the dirty air tube plumbing harness that is fabricated out of black PVC. If that plumbing harness gets much oil in it at extreme temps and pressures, will my splice hold or will there be oil all over my engine compartment?; will it adversly affect oil pressures. It is one thing to clamp rubber tubing and quite another to clamp PVC.
The air tube plumbing harnesses are fabricated with the end clamps and 'T' clamps. So they can withstand the pressure and heat generated.
Do you understand my concern?
I'm beginning to think that I should have purchased the Lingenfelter tank. But my car is still under the GMPP warranty and will be until 10/2013. Perhaps I should let the dealer do the install? It looks to be such a simple R&R project except for this %$&@# issue!
There are two 'air tubes' (as worded in the service manual) that have fittings on the top of the dry sump oil reservoir. The one closest to the fire wall (rear port) is the 'PCV dirty air tube.' (The front port is the PCV fresh air port). The small dry sump tank only has one air tube at the top of the tank. It is a dirty air tube because it is 'T'ed' to the dirty air tube on the main tank per service manual illustrations.
My concern is splicing into the dirty air tube plumbing harness that is fabricated out of black PVC. If that plumbing harness gets much oil in it at extreme temps and pressures, will my splice hold or will there be oil all over my engine compartment?; will it adversly affect oil pressures. It is one thing to clamp rubber tubing and quite another to clamp PVC.
The air tube plumbing harnesses are fabricated with the end clamps and 'T' clamps. So they can withstand the pressure and heat generated.
Do you understand my concern?
I'm beginning to think that I should have purchased the Lingenfelter tank. But my car is still under the GMPP warranty and will be until 10/2013. Perhaps I should let the dealer do the install? It looks to be such a simple R&R project except for this %$&@# issue!
Sending you a PM so we can discuss off line.
03-04-2012, 04:27 PM
#24
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Three images are still 'pending approval' in the photo gallery before I can upload. They will answer your questions.
There are two 'air tubes' (as worded in the service manual) that have fittings on the top of the dry sump oil reservoir. The one closest to the fire wall (rear port) is the 'PCV dirty air tube.' (The front port is the PCV fresh air port). The small dry sump tank only has one air tube at the top of the tank. It is a dirty air tube because it is 'T'ed' to the dirty air tube on the main tank per service manual illustrations.
My concern is splicing into the dirty air tube plumbing harness that is fabricated out of black PVC. If that plumbing harness gets much oil in it at extreme temps and pressures, will my splice hold or will there be oil all over my engine compartment?; will it adversly affect oil pressures. It is one thing to clamp rubber tubing and quite another to clamp PVC.
The air tube plumbing harnesses are fabricated with the end clamps and 'T' clamps. So they can withstand the pressure and heat generated.
Do you understand my concern?
I'm beginning to think that I should have purchased the Lingenfelter tank. But my car is still under the GMPP warranty and will be until 10/2013. Perhaps I should let the dealer do the install? It looks to be such a simple R&R project except for this %$&@# issue!
There are two 'air tubes' (as worded in the service manual) that have fittings on the top of the dry sump oil reservoir. The one closest to the fire wall (rear port) is the 'PCV dirty air tube.' (The front port is the PCV fresh air port). The small dry sump tank only has one air tube at the top of the tank. It is a dirty air tube because it is 'T'ed' to the dirty air tube on the main tank per service manual illustrations.
My concern is splicing into the dirty air tube plumbing harness that is fabricated out of black PVC. If that plumbing harness gets much oil in it at extreme temps and pressures, will my splice hold or will there be oil all over my engine compartment?; will it adversly affect oil pressures. It is one thing to clamp rubber tubing and quite another to clamp PVC.
The air tube plumbing harnesses are fabricated with the end clamps and 'T' clamps. So they can withstand the pressure and heat generated.
Do you understand my concern?
I'm beginning to think that I should have purchased the Lingenfelter tank. But my car is still under the GMPP warranty and will be until 10/2013. Perhaps I should let the dealer do the install? It looks to be such a simple R&R project except for this %$&@# issue!
Bill
03-04-2012, 05:28 PM
#26
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Minkster, here are the pix:
PCV Dirty Air Tube
Note how the bend at the right bank valve/rocker cover attachment is different between what I purchased and yours. Your configuration is what I have on my 2007 Z and what I purchased doesn't have a 90° bend on the coupling; the bend is 3" past the coupling into the hard pvc line.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...90275/cat/1011
Attachment on my current 2007 Z at the left bank valve/rocker cover.
Note how coupling is a different style on the 2010 plumbing harness vs what is on my '07 Z. Additionally, the 2010 plumbing harness coupling at the left bank valve/rocker cover is a 90° bend vs a 135° bend on my '07 Z
PCV Dirty Air Tube
Note how the bend at the right bank valve/rocker cover attachment is different between what I purchased and yours. Your configuration is what I have on my 2007 Z and what I purchased doesn't have a 90° bend on the coupling; the bend is 3" past the coupling into the hard pvc line.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...90275/cat/1011
Attachment on my current 2007 Z at the left bank valve/rocker cover.
Note how coupling is a different style on the 2010 plumbing harness vs what is on my '07 Z. Additionally, the 2010 plumbing harness coupling at the left bank valve/rocker cover is a 90° bend vs a 135° bend on my '07 Z
03-04-2012, 05:47 PM
#27
Melting Slicks
Minkster, here are the pix:
PCV Dirty Air Tube
Note how the bend at the right bank valve/rocker cover attachment is different between what I purchased and yours. Your configuration is what I have on my 2007 Z and what I purchased doesn't have a 90° bend on the coupling; the bend is 3" past the coupling into the hard pvc line.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...90275/cat/1011
Attachment on my current 2007 Z at the left bank valve/rocker cover.
Note how coupling is a different style on the 2010 plumbing harness vs what is on my '07 Z. Additionally, the 2010 plumbing harness coupling at the left bank valve/rocker cover is a 90° bend vs a 135° bend on my '07 Z
PCV Dirty Air Tube
Note how the bend at the right bank valve/rocker cover attachment is different between what I purchased and yours. Your configuration is what I have on my 2007 Z and what I purchased doesn't have a 90° bend on the coupling; the bend is 3" past the coupling into the hard pvc line.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...90275/cat/1011
Attachment on my current 2007 Z at the left bank valve/rocker cover.
Note how coupling is a different style on the 2010 plumbing harness vs what is on my '07 Z. Additionally, the 2010 plumbing harness coupling at the left bank valve/rocker cover is a 90° bend vs a 135° bend on my '07 Z
Take a look here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1572099133-post88.html
Mine is for the '09 motor. What's the part number for those lines?
03-04-2012, 05:54 PM
#28
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It looks like your vent lines are shaped different than mine.
Take a look here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1572099133-post88.html
Mine is for the '09 motor. What's the part number for those lines?
Take a look here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1572099133-post88.html
Mine is for the '09 motor. What's the part number for those lines?
Part number my dealer ordered is 12623296. Perhaps it's for a 2010?
03-12-2012, 07:39 PM
#31
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Well, the correct PCV Dirty Air Tube arrived at the dealership late Thursday. (I confirmed that it was the correct one when I got home that evening.)
On Saturday, I went over a buddy’s home as he has a lift. The removal of the 8½ qt tank and installation of the 10½ qt tank was a breeze. However, there was one minor issue. When the 10½ qt tank is installed, the supplemental oil reservoir on the OEM tank pushes the main wiring harness 3”-6” laterally away from where it needs to be. Needless to say, that causes the ancillary connection from the main harness to the oil temp sensor to become too short (by 3”-6”).
So after splicing into that pigtail, soldering the connections and using some heat shrink tubing to insulate the splice, all that was left was to button things up with proper torques and add oil. (By the way, the change of tanks required a full 11 quarts of oil. Perhaps due to the draining of the oil tank inlet/outlet lines when they were disconnected from the oil tank.)
A hearty ‘Thank You’ to Minkster for his help in assisting me to determine the correct year needed when replacing the PCV Dirty Air Tube and for supplying the link to the thread that has the pix of the install.
And a ‘Thank You’ to Jason H @ Katech for selling me his used 10½ qt tank. It looked brand new when I got it.
On Saturday, I went over a buddy’s home as he has a lift. The removal of the 8½ qt tank and installation of the 10½ qt tank was a breeze. However, there was one minor issue. When the 10½ qt tank is installed, the supplemental oil reservoir on the OEM tank pushes the main wiring harness 3”-6” laterally away from where it needs to be. Needless to say, that causes the ancillary connection from the main harness to the oil temp sensor to become too short (by 3”-6”).
So after splicing into that pigtail, soldering the connections and using some heat shrink tubing to insulate the splice, all that was left was to button things up with proper torques and add oil. (By the way, the change of tanks required a full 11 quarts of oil. Perhaps due to the draining of the oil tank inlet/outlet lines when they were disconnected from the oil tank.)
A hearty ‘Thank You’ to Minkster for his help in assisting me to determine the correct year needed when replacing the PCV Dirty Air Tube and for supplying the link to the thread that has the pix of the install.
And a ‘Thank You’ to Jason H @ Katech for selling me his used 10½ qt tank. It looked brand new when I got it.
03-12-2012, 11:20 PM
#32
Melting Slicks
Well, the correct PCV Dirty Air Tube arrived at the dealership late Thursday. (I confirmed that it was the correct one when I got home that evening.)
On Saturday, I went over a buddy’s home as he has a lift. The removal of the 8½ qt tank and installation of the 10½ qt tank was a breeze. However, there was one minor issue. When the 10½ qt tank is installed, the supplemental oil reservoir on the OEM tank pushes the main wiring harness 3”-6” laterally away from where it needs to be. Needless to say, that causes the ancillary connection from the main harness to the oil temp sensor to become too short (by 3”-6”).
So after splicing into that pigtail, soldering the connections and using some heat shrink tubing to insulate the splice, all that was left was to button things up with proper torques and add oil. (By the way, the change of tanks required a full 11 quarts of oil. Perhaps due to the draining of the oil tank inlet/outlet lines when they were disconnected from the oil tank.)
A hearty ‘Thank You’ to Minkster for his help in assisting me to determine the correct year needed when replacing the PCV Dirty Air Tube and for supplying the link to the thread that has the pix of the install.
And a ‘Thank You’ to Jason H @ Katech for selling me his used 10½ qt tank. It looked brand new when I got it.
On Saturday, I went over a buddy’s home as he has a lift. The removal of the 8½ qt tank and installation of the 10½ qt tank was a breeze. However, there was one minor issue. When the 10½ qt tank is installed, the supplemental oil reservoir on the OEM tank pushes the main wiring harness 3”-6” laterally away from where it needs to be. Needless to say, that causes the ancillary connection from the main harness to the oil temp sensor to become too short (by 3”-6”).
So after splicing into that pigtail, soldering the connections and using some heat shrink tubing to insulate the splice, all that was left was to button things up with proper torques and add oil. (By the way, the change of tanks required a full 11 quarts of oil. Perhaps due to the draining of the oil tank inlet/outlet lines when they were disconnected from the oil tank.)
A hearty ‘Thank You’ to Minkster for his help in assisting me to determine the correct year needed when replacing the PCV Dirty Air Tube and for supplying the link to the thread that has the pix of the install.
And a ‘Thank You’ to Jason H @ Katech for selling me his used 10½ qt tank. It looked brand new when I got it.
I had the same problem with the wiring harness, but was able to push it over the top of the smaller (AUX) tank so it could make it down to the main tank temp sensor. Anyhow, great you got it hooked up!
03-13-2012, 01:20 AM
#33
Team Owner
03-13-2012, 08:13 AM
#34
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03-13-2012, 01:45 PM
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Vent line with Fast Intake
I just installed the Lingenfelter tank on my 06 Z with a Fast 102 intake and noticed that vent line that goes to the drivers side is almost too short to attach. This appears to be caused by the Fast being taller then the stock intake. The line has a molded kink in it for the original intake. Is it possible to straighten the line by heating it? If not what size tubing is necessary to add some length? I don't really want to cut it until I have some idea what is necessary?
03-13-2012, 01:49 PM
#37
Premium Supporting Vendor
I just installed the Lingenfelter tank on my 06 Z with a Fast 102 intake and noticed that vent line that goes to the drivers side is almost too short to attach. This appears to be caused by the Fast being taller then the stock intake. The line has a molded kink in it for the original intake. Is it possible to straighten the line by heating it? If not what size tubing is necessary to add some length? I don't really want to cut it until I have some idea what is necessary?
03-13-2012, 08:53 PM
#39
Racer
