[Z06] Cheapest Weight Reduction Ideas - Lets Discuss here!
04-03-2012, 09:25 PM
#21
Le Mans Master
It DOES matter... If you do not believe that weight is important, suggest you read the recent Road & Track article testing all available variants of the '12 model - on the street and the track. Unanamous winner was the Z06, even over ZR1. And, the '12 Z weighed quite a bit more than my '10 3LZ - just 90 lbs less than the ZR1.
My '10 weighed in at 3157 lbs on race shop calibrated scales, with only about 4 gallons of fuel. This weekend, it will be at my friend's shop for substantial handling, braking upgrades, along with a bit more power, and a diet.
Goodyears replaced by 4 stock sized Michelin Pilot SuperSports at a savings of 4 lbs per tire and handling improvement in a totally different level (working with the already installed DRM Bilsteins). Four Coleman slotted rotors with aluminum hats replacsing stock - 10 lbs saving for each front rotor, 6 lbs for each rear - total unsprung weight savings of 48 lbs -equal to 96 lbs sprung weight. Stock exhaust replaced by Akropovic Ti evo system for a bit more power and another 33 lb weight loss. Thy car already dynoed on a race shop dynojet that is carefully maintained at 474 rear wheel. Only power mods are Halltech Carbon fiber SuperBee (MF 102??) and Hive plus manual fan controls to keep the water temps down - warranty intact.
That's what I am calling my "Z06 Crystal" project - car is Crystal Red. Hopefully, a Halltech DRED carbon fiber hood will come later - saving about another 14 lbs off the front with much better engine heat venting and aero.
After reading that Road & Track article, I am a believer. One of the major reasons that the C6R they tested so badly spanked the production cars (besides it uber expensive lightening quick tranny) was the fact it weighed in at only 2700 lbs - did not need more than its rated 500 h/p to blow away the stock vettes on the track and outdrag the ZR1.
My '10 weighed in at 3157 lbs on race shop calibrated scales, with only about 4 gallons of fuel. This weekend, it will be at my friend's shop for substantial handling, braking upgrades, along with a bit more power, and a diet.
Goodyears replaced by 4 stock sized Michelin Pilot SuperSports at a savings of 4 lbs per tire and handling improvement in a totally different level (working with the already installed DRM Bilsteins). Four Coleman slotted rotors with aluminum hats replacsing stock - 10 lbs saving for each front rotor, 6 lbs for each rear - total unsprung weight savings of 48 lbs -equal to 96 lbs sprung weight. Stock exhaust replaced by Akropovic Ti evo system for a bit more power and another 33 lb weight loss. Thy car already dynoed on a race shop dynojet that is carefully maintained at 474 rear wheel. Only power mods are Halltech Carbon fiber SuperBee (MF 102??) and Hive plus manual fan controls to keep the water temps down - warranty intact.
That's what I am calling my "Z06 Crystal" project - car is Crystal Red. Hopefully, a Halltech DRED carbon fiber hood will come later - saving about another 14 lbs off the front with much better engine heat venting and aero.
After reading that Road & Track article, I am a believer. One of the major reasons that the C6R they tested so badly spanked the production cars (besides it uber expensive lightening quick tranny) was the fact it weighed in at only 2700 lbs - did not need more than its rated 500 h/p to blow away the stock vettes on the track and outdrag the ZR1.
I'm sure the C6R wasn't on runflats nor is it using a standard manual. Also some quick math the C6R runs 5.4lbs/hp whereas the ZR1 is at 6.2lbs/hp. Yeah its great to lose weight, but to get those extreme performance specs just won't happen if you want to keep the car driveable everyday.
I am not saying don't drop weight off your car just do it wisely. I personally think the Akra kit is one of those but its your money and your car so its your choice. I have the bassani kit and so I just run one muffler in the tunnel and so I probably dropped the same amount as your Akra kit but I only spent $800. Supervettes basically made the same kit using a magnaflow muffler in the tunnel but only went out to one pipe which I find slightly odd. By using the bassani kit I shifted weight off the rear which kinda sucks but at least the weight sits lower now and its at the center of the car.
04-03-2012, 09:26 PM
#22
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You do know Toyota now has a car that drives itself, something to think about. On second thought, this may not be the cheapest way to go.
Last edited by ritzz06; 04-03-2012 at 09:29 PM. Reason: adding on
04-03-2012, 10:16 PM
#23
Burning Brakes
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I'm sure the C6R wasn't on runflats nor is it using a standard manual. Also some quick math the C6R runs 5.4lbs/hp whereas the ZR1 is at 6.2lbs/hp. Yeah its great to lose weight, but to get those extreme performance specs just won't happen if you want to keep the car driveable everyday.
I am not saying don't drop weight off your car just do it wisely. I personally think the Akra kit is one of those but its your money and your car so its your choice. I have the bassani kit and so I just run one muffler in the tunnel and so I probably dropped the same amount as your Akra kit but I only spent $800. Supervettes basically made the same kit using a magnaflow muffler in the tunnel but only went out to one pipe which I find slightly odd. By using the bassani kit I shifted weight off the rear which kinda sucks but at least the weight sits lower now and its at the center of the car.
I am not saying don't drop weight off your car just do it wisely. I personally think the Akra kit is one of those but its your money and your car so its your choice. I have the bassani kit and so I just run one muffler in the tunnel and so I probably dropped the same amount as your Akra kit but I only spent $800. Supervettes basically made the same kit using a magnaflow muffler in the tunnel but only went out to one pipe which I find slightly odd. By using the bassani kit I shifted weight off the rear which kinda sucks but at least the weight sits lower now and its at the center of the car.
As for the Akras, well yer right it's my dough and I really like the exhaust. Plus, Apple stock has been very,very good to me!
Last edited by OJCrush08; 04-03-2012 at 10:17 PM. Reason: Fix
04-03-2012, 10:28 PM
#24
Le Mans Master
Yes, you are right about the C6R tranny (which I did mention in my post) but you are wrong about the tires used on the '12 Z06 and ZR1 tested. Those cars were shod with the Michelin Pilot Cup Tires even more aggressive than SS tires I bought, and IMHO, really pretty much a track dedicated tire.
As for the Akras, well yer right it's my dough and I really like the exhaust. Plus, Apple stock has been very,very good to me!
As for the Akras, well yer right it's my dough and I really like the exhaust. Plus, Apple stock has been very,very good to me!
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....1&autoModClar=
06-18-2012, 09:30 PM
#25
So far I've come up with these ideas:
-Wheels/Tires
Wheels=OEM
Tires: Michelin Super Sport Tires (this is expensive to do but not if you already need tires) I believe R888's are cheaper
Price:
-Brakes
Swapping out rotors to a 2 piece design. (not sure which brand is good and cheap?)
Product: (up for suggestions)
Price:
-Seats
Option 1: Keeping factory seats but swapping out the brackets? (Not sure if this is possible)
Option 2: Going with an aftermarket seat and brackets (Not sure which offers best weight reduction to price ratio?)Anything manual
Product: (up for suggestions, not sure if pfadt is still available?)
Price:
OEM Drivers Seat Base-------->26 lbs
OEM Driver Seat Base--------->Pfadt Seat Mount 5.4lbssounds good to me
OEM Passenger Seat Base----->10 lbs
OEM Passenger Seat Base--------->Pfadt Seat Mount 5.4lbs
-Battery
Odyssey PC925MJT 26lbs (-10lbs) (for people who don't want to have to trickle charge if they don't drive their car every week)
-Exhaust
B&B Bullets 34.2lbs (-16 lbs)are there any quieter light weight axle backs?
-Headers + X Pipe
American Racing Headers 1 7/8" w/ Catted X Pipe
or
American Racing Headers 1 7/8" w/ no cats X Pipe (not sure which I want to go with but I do live in PA)
Price:
-Interior
Remove Cargo mat
Remove Sun Visors
Remove passenger floor mat
Remove Cargo net+cloth cover
Price: Free
-Exterior
Carbon Fiber front splitter
Product: (up for suggestions)
Price:
-Engine
Remove plastic LS7 engine covers
Price: Free
Remove wiper fluid and unplug tank
Price: Free
Swapping out motor mounts to Hinson or Pfadt mounts
Price:
Swapping out OEM clutch + flywheel for an upgraded one which also is lighter and holds more power
Product: (up for suggestions)I think I heard the LS9R is lighter than the LS7
Price:
-Suspension
(Up for suggestions but I know there is weight to be lost here but not sure if it's cheap)cagin4real(sp) is selling a set of Pfadt inverted sport shocks for about $500. That moves the weight to the sprung side.
Anyone want to add to the list or fill in information/make suggestions. Feel free but these are my ideas so far without going overboard.
-Kyle
06-18-2012, 10:12 PM
#26
How about something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Chevrolet-Mini.../dp/B0062NHSKE
Whats the lowest rated amp alternator that can be run on a street car?
Who makes a light starter? I bet theres a ton of weight to be saved with a smaller starter.
http://www.amazon.com/Chevrolet-Mini.../dp/B0062NHSKE
Whats the lowest rated amp alternator that can be run on a street car?
Who makes a light starter? I bet theres a ton of weight to be saved with a smaller starter.
06-19-2012, 02:32 PM
#27
Le Mans Master
Circumcision! 
Jim
Jim
Exit's stage left
06-19-2012, 11:12 PM
#30
Anybody know how well this would work if you drove your car to the track or on the street occasionally?
http://www.rareelectrical.com/p-6007...wire-unit.aspx
The thing weighs 7 lbs and only runs $100 bucks! I just replaced mine with a stocker and tho I didn't weigh it, I know its was way more than 7 lbs.
http://www.rareelectrical.com/p-6007...wire-unit.aspx
The thing weighs 7 lbs and only runs $100 bucks! I just replaced mine with a stocker and tho I didn't weigh it, I know its was way more than 7 lbs.
06-20-2012, 07:24 AM
#31
Burning Brakes
This thread kind of sums up why I want a Z06 in the first place. Its pretty hard to lower weight by that much without losing daily driver function.
For me the things I would do to try and lose weight would be
Wheels/tires
headers/exhaust
2 piece rotors
consider weight when i replace my clutch
Other than that I don't think there is much you can do to really make much of a difference that's worth it...at least to me. I think the biggest thing that you can change for the purpose of weight is the wheels/tires. The guy that posted his z06-gt transformation lost 11lbs on each rear wheel by changing wheels/tires. IIRC rotating mass is worth 7lbs for ever 1lb you lose. Some say 8. So if i remember right losing 22 lbs of rotating mass would be like losing of 154-176lbs of the weight of your car.
I noticed quite a difference in acceleration when i put some Fikse's on my Z28.
For me the things I would do to try and lose weight would be
Wheels/tires
headers/exhaust
2 piece rotors
consider weight when i replace my clutch
Other than that I don't think there is much you can do to really make much of a difference that's worth it...at least to me. I think the biggest thing that you can change for the purpose of weight is the wheels/tires. The guy that posted his z06-gt transformation lost 11lbs on each rear wheel by changing wheels/tires. IIRC rotating mass is worth 7lbs for ever 1lb you lose. Some say 8. So if i remember right losing 22 lbs of rotating mass would be like losing of 154-176lbs of the weight of your car.
I noticed quite a difference in acceleration when i put some Fikse's on my Z28.
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06-20-2012, 10:06 AM
#32
Le Mans Master
Anybody know how well this would work if you drove your car to the track or on the street occasionally?
http://www.rareelectrical.com/p-6007...wire-unit.aspx
The thing weighs 7 lbs and only runs $100 bucks! I just replaced mine with a stocker and tho I didn't weigh it, I know its was way more than 7 lbs.
http://www.rareelectrical.com/p-6007...wire-unit.aspx
The thing weighs 7 lbs and only runs $100 bucks! I just replaced mine with a stocker and tho I didn't weigh it, I know its was way more than 7 lbs.
06-20-2012, 10:17 AM
#33
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Knowing the intended use of the car is the starting point for weight reduction. Just throwing out numbers is a waste of time.
If the OP's interest is 1/4 mile while still able to DD, then some of the reduction can be temporary.
If I get the urge to make some serious passes, I can get my weight down from my DD 3210 to 2925 race ready in about 3 hours. No way is this good for road courses, daily use, or cross country trips, but for that one-shot at the drags it's well worth it.
On a Z, you could even weigh less than my coupe.
If the OP's interest is 1/4 mile while still able to DD, then some of the reduction can be temporary.
If I get the urge to make some serious passes, I can get my weight down from my DD 3210 to 2925 race ready in about 3 hours. No way is this good for road courses, daily use, or cross country trips, but for that one-shot at the drags it's well worth it.
On a Z, you could even weigh less than my coupe.
06-20-2012, 06:44 PM
#34
Knowing the intended use of the car is the starting point for weight reduction. Just throwing out numbers is a waste of time.
If the OP's interest is 1/4 mile while still able to DD, then some of the reduction can be temporary.
If I get the urge to make some serious passes, I can get my weight down from my DD 3210 to 2925 race ready in about 3 hours. No way is this good for road courses, daily use, or cross country trips, but for that one-shot at the drags it's well worth it.
On a Z, you could even weigh less than my coupe.
If the OP's interest is 1/4 mile while still able to DD, then some of the reduction can be temporary.
If I get the urge to make some serious passes, I can get my weight down from my DD 3210 to 2925 race ready in about 3 hours. No way is this good for road courses, daily use, or cross country trips, but for that one-shot at the drags it's well worth it.
On a Z, you could even weigh less than my coupe.
06-21-2012, 01:08 AM
#36
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Remove both stock seats (replace with 18 lb race seat), all carpet front and rear, base rotors all around, GTO spares w/ M&H skinnies on front, C5Z front wheels w/ Hoosiers on the back, drain the ww fluid, drop the front sway, swap the Z06 mufflers for straight pipes, empty the console/glove box/ cubbies, and for the crowning touch I use open end lugnuts for that last 13 ounces. 
06-21-2012, 02:02 AM
#37
Drifting
Remove both stock seats (replace with 18 lb race seat), all carpet front and rear, base rotors all around, GTO spares w/ M&H skinnies on front, C5Z front wheels w/ Hoosiers on the back, drain the ww fluid, drop the front sway, swap the Z06 mufflers for straight pipes, empty the console/glove box/ cubbies, and for the crowning touch I use open end lugnuts for that last 13 ounces.
Gary
06-21-2012, 01:19 PM
#38
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Just a suggestion to think about. Back in the muscle car days, pulling the front sway bar was a good deal for getting weight off the front of the car and freeing up the front suspension a little. However, on our modern cars, we also have a rear sway bar and just pulling the front bar will induce a lot of oversteer. Something you don't want at a narrow drag strip in a car with a lot of power. If you want to pull the front bar, it might be a lot safer to pull them both, not just the front.
Gary
Gary
06-21-2012, 03:11 PM
#40
The best weight reduction is the unsprung and rotational mass like the brakes, tires, wheels and then unsprung weight like the suspension components. That will make the handling sharper and much more lively. That's why I laugh at people that put big ole' chrome bling wheels on their sports cars. The performance is sacrificed for looks.
Also, taking weight off the top of the car would be of great benefit to get the mass as low as possible. That's why the carbon roof on the ZR1 is a good thing.
If you move weight off the rest of the car, you'll have to consider trying to keep the car balanced. The C6 Z06 is very well balanced. Near 50/50.
If you look at tests done between the Z06 and ZR1 the Z06 is better balanced because the ZR1 has an extra 100 pounds on the front end with the supercharger and associated plumbing. The Z06 is faster around a 2 mile track than the ZR1 and more enjoyable to drive because of its balance. Where the ZR1 has the advantage is on tracks with long straights because of the added hp.
I'd much rather shed weight on a car than add more power unless you only plan to go in a straight line. The weight affects your braking and your handling. I'd rather have a sub 3,000 lb Corvette with 400 hp than a 3,500 lb Corvette with 600 hp. That's just me though...
Also, taking weight off the top of the car would be of great benefit to get the mass as low as possible. That's why the carbon roof on the ZR1 is a good thing.
If you move weight off the rest of the car, you'll have to consider trying to keep the car balanced. The C6 Z06 is very well balanced. Near 50/50.
If you look at tests done between the Z06 and ZR1 the Z06 is better balanced because the ZR1 has an extra 100 pounds on the front end with the supercharger and associated plumbing. The Z06 is faster around a 2 mile track than the ZR1 and more enjoyable to drive because of its balance. Where the ZR1 has the advantage is on tracks with long straights because of the added hp.
I'd much rather shed weight on a car than add more power unless you only plan to go in a straight line. The weight affects your braking and your handling. I'd rather have a sub 3,000 lb Corvette with 400 hp than a 3,500 lb Corvette with 600 hp. That's just me though...
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