Joe_G

That pedal not coming all the way up will prevent your cruise control from working.

And some models, like the Z06, have a rev limiter that kicks in when the clutch is not all the way up and closing the top switch, I understand.

I suggest you reinstall your clutch spring. It'll keep the pedal all the way up.

Did I just type that? Can't believe I did. But I did and I meant it.

JUIC3D

I know what you're talking about Joe, but that's not the case here. The pedal returns to the top every time, it just has a little dead space when pressing it before you feel it. It's hard to describe but I think it's normal based on what I'm hearing from the masses. The clutch does feel much better now and I've taken it out a few times to see how it does when rowing the gears. So far so good..now I just need it to stop raining so I can take it to the track

C6whinnit

Thanks for all the info on this problem,
I have a quick question though, When you changed out to the Tick MS did you do the full length braided line or the basic kit? I'm hoping that the basic kit is all i need as i don't want to go through removing the transmission.
It looks like the only advantage to using the full length line is easier connect/disconnect for future work, is that correct?

Thanks

JUIC3D

I did the short line and reconnecting it to the slave line isn't all that bad. Just reinstall the clip and then you get under the car and reach around the header to clip them back together. It's tight, but it's definitely doable.

BgBoost1

I did the short kit as well. I already had the remote bleeder and did not want to remove the trans again. The clip takes some patientce but I was able to get it all together!

C6whinnit

Thanks, I'm hoping that this will fix the issue so i don't have to do a full clutch job.

JUIC3D

You can also take the opportunity to make sure the slave line is up and away from the header(if you have them). I've known a few different people who burnt through their clutch lines and have to remove the driveline to install a new one.

C6whinnit

My Tick MS arrived today so i went right ahead and started installing it. I have a few issues though. The main one being the insanely tight spaces that my hands can't fit.....
The other issue is on the instructions it says that the top of master will be at about 2 o-clock after twisting it in till it stops. I'm assuming that the "top" is the white plastic cap. Not only does mine stop at around 9 o-clock, but it feels loose like its not seated correctly. When i looked inside the car at the connection the notches are lined up with the mating notches on the clutch pedal assy. I have a feeling that it was supposed to stop sooner than it did. Any one else have this issue?

JUIC3D

*Update*

Went to the track last night and made 5 passes with 4 of them being on the 100shot.

No clutch issues, no missed gears, no unusual feelings in the pedal. It DOES still have that weird 1/2"-1" of dead space at the very top of the pedal but it doesn't seem to be an issue. Others have reported it as well so I'll chalk it up to the design of the master cylinder. I drove home with the cruise control on and had no issues with that either.

Thanks everyone for the helpful information.


C6whinnit--did you remove the drivers side wheel and the cover? I actually removed the windshield washer reservoir because it was a very tight fit so maybe that will help you.

Did you test fit the master cylinder to the pedal box prior to installation? Mine did stop at the 2 oclock position and it feels strong and sturdy. If I remember right, mine was inserted at around the 5 oclock position and was rotated counter-clockwise to the 2 oclock position.

C6whinnit

Justinjor,
Yes, i removed the wheel and to gain access, but did not test fit with the clutch assy while it was out. The larger notch on the pedal assy is at top left when facing from under the wheel arch so it would only index from that direction. The cylinder rotates about 540 deg before stopping and ended up with the notches and tabs lining up again. I ended up (for now) only rotating it to the 2 o-clock position and stopping there, it feels pretty solid but i;m concerned that it vibrate loose. I'm going to call tick tomorrow and see if they can help me with this.

I did get everything back together and it definitely fixed the pedal pressure issue. Like you i have about 1"+ of dead space at the top of the pedal, but plenty of engagement otherwise. On a down note i have discovered that i'll need a clutch replacement, while test driving it on the freeway i noticed that i'm getting slipping when i gas pretty hard. But at least i can drive it now

JUIC3D

Ok, 540 degrees of rotation seems wrong. Mine only had about a 1/4 turn before it was locked and loaded at the 2 oclock position. It feels strong and solid too although I think I cut a little too much off of the rubber bushing.

Hell, I don't know how you rotated more than a 1/4 turn with the brake master cylinder in the way too. There was just enough room to line it up, push, twist a 1/4 turn and that was it.

Painrace

Thanks for the post. Mine should arrive tomorrow and be installed Tuesday.

Jim

SmokinZ

When I installed mine, I made the cut out to the plastic they mentioned in the directions and I installed the assembly. The Master cylinder felt just a little bit loose and when I went back and looked at the original I found another rubber grommet that I did not install. I took the master cylinder out, installed this second grommet and reinstalled. It was a MUCH tighter fit this time.

C6whinnit

I'll have to check for the second grommet, I didn't notice it when i was installing. I hope i didn't miss it, i don't want to have to go through all that again, my body is still recovering from all the contorting and twisting to get into the ridiculously tight spots.

mitchydkid

There is a BIG bellows-like dust boot. This is the one you cut. But there is also thick rubber washer, and this is the one that has to be transferred from the stock unit to the Tick unit. It blends in well with the black plastic of the stock unit and I missed seeing it at first.

JUIC3D

Well hmm, I'll have to check that myself when I get home tonight. I don't remember transferring more than 1 of the rubber boots. . .

Painrace

So did I but it plainly says to take it off of the old one and use it in the directions.

Jim

master blaster

WOW TICK IS AWSOME!!! It has fixed all the problems!!! And I am running way way more power then the clutch should have!
Great purchase!

Painrace

Tick/Tilton unit installed and WOW what a difference. I cannot believe the little piece of **** GM used. I think this upgrade is a MUST for anyone who tracks their car. It all makes sense now and we have gone through several clutches, etc. trying to figure out the problem.

Jim

C6whinnit

After re-reading the instructions. it sure does say to remove the rubber seal/washer and transfer it to the tick..... Not sure how i missed that line, looks like i'll be back under the car this weekend. DOH!!!!!