0Cunningham Motorsports

that is a real grey area.... i have pushed them into the 720rwhp area... i start getting nervous above 700rwhp.... that being said they have all lived up there for me... not recommended for longevity however, and that can be said for the ls3 as well....

LS9Drew

Funny they can hold 700whp but people keep ******* these motors on here SMH lol

LSX_NUT

is it safe to say that the LS7 is plenty reliable as long as the correct Heads/Valvetrain modifications are done?

I'll be getting a c6z soon and just a H/C/I full bolt on package will be plenty for me. I'd ship the heads off to WCCH so they could work their magic.

Would that be reliable or still a gamble???

I put 40k+ HARD miles on my 455rwhp H/C/I LS1 in my fbody and it never skipped a beat. I'd expect the same from the LS7.

0Cunningham Motorsports

if tuned correctly and everything installed correctly, yes it should be reliable

Neal427z

you call 650 hp heavy modding...ha ha ha

BeardWS6

I have talk to one Builder here in houston and one in Florida and both have said you can get 650rwhp on a LS7 safely, they push 700rwhp all the time and have very little issues if any. Depends on the driver and how hard you push it. Mine will be a pure street car for fun and the wife will drive it at times. I truly thank everyone for their input. Very good information from all!

FrankTank

use a reliable shop that specializes in Corvettes, and even C6Z's and you are good to go. Rarely if ever do we see a Katech car blowing up, or even an ECS car..etc..

Those shops know what these motors can and can't handle, and how to tune them safely

If i had the money, I would add a blower to my Z with one of those shops.

Michael_D

It is always preferable to go with a larger bore whenever possible (this is basic IC engine theory fundamentals). The LS7 has this over its LS siblings (unless they are punched and sleeved for the larger bore). The ports and valve angle of the LS7 is also superior than the other LS platforms. If boost or spray are wanted / needed for the intended application, consideration should be given towards Darton sleeves and forged pistons. The OE LS7 pistons are cast and the cylinder liners/sleeves are a grey iron that is prone to cracking under detonation. Conservative timing tables will help, but that is not an absolute. If the rotating assembly is to be removed, Katech rod bolts should be considered, and IMO, just stupid to not install.

With good non-restrictive intake / exhaust side bolt on’s and the right cam, reliable 650 crank hp is easily achievable with the LS7. It would simply be prudent to have the heads worked while tearing the engine down. It is much more labor intensive to swap a cam than the heads, so why not? Based on the rocker sweep I had on my build with .670 lift, I would give serious consideration to an adjustable rail rocker set up for lifts above .650 as well. I am not a proponent of running a heavier valve and feel that if the seat concentricity is correct, and the valves land squarely on the seat without bounce, running a hollow stem valve should not be a concern as long as the valve train remains stable.

If I were to build an all out race engine, I would most likely run a six bolt RHS block, or at a min, re-sleeve the LS7 block. I would also seriously consider running a shorter stroke to get a better rod angle unless a tall deck block is used. Probably 3.75". I would retain the Ti rods up to 800 hp or 8000 rpm - both assuming the shorter stroke and standard deck height block. Above either of those levels, I would move to a steel rod.

BeardWS6

Awesome info, Thanks Michael D