ANGRY Z

I received my new engine block with some scratches and an indentation on some of the mating surfaces. I lightly cleaned everything up with a fine file and 1500 grit. However, after starting up my new engine I have found that an indentation hear the #8 cylinder water jacket hole is allowing coolant to leak out from the rear of the head and also into the #8 cylinder. Very upset and frustrated. I drained the oil, and coolant came out first. Not alot but some. Then I drained the coolant too. Also, drained my catch can because it had oil in it too. Long story short, I pulled the head and checked out the gasket, everthing was torqued properly, using all new parts to include ARP head studs. So now I am faced with trying to repair the "dented" part of the block surface to stop it from leaking when I replace the head gasket, put it all back together and hope it doesnt ever leak again. So, what miracle epoxy should I use to fill this void? I don't think JB Weld is going to cut it, and have been looking at other, higher temp, permanent epoxies for use. Anyone with experience with this, PLEASE advise. I really dont care to yank the shortblock and do it all over again. (obviously decking the block or replacing the shortblock would fix this)

ANGRY Z

bump

dfinke23

You may have to pull it and take it to a machine shop. Sorry for your trouble.

383vett

Do you have a picture of the "dent". Is it on the edge or near the waterjacket?

ANGRY Z

No pic right now, I am at work. The dent is from water jacket up to sleeve. Not on sleeve at all. Just the aluminum block material itself is dented.

Turbosixx

Is it possible to run a graphite style head gasket?

ANGRY Z

Besides Cometics, I dont know of any other gaskets or graphite layered head gaskets for the LS7. (Plus I am supercharged)

Andydp

I'm going to do what is normal for me and ask the dumb question:

Why didn't you take the engine block back and get one that wasn't dented ? Whoever supplied you with a messed up block should be trying to fix the problem.

On the other hand, your working on it with sandpaper and a file will get them to claim you caused this problem.

Just my 2 cents.

ANGRY Z

It was mail ordered. They were told of the imperfections when I received it. I told them I would clean it up and give it a try to see if it sealed up and worked. Unfortunately for me, it leaks. I am waiting on a call back from them with advice of what to do also.

ANGRY Z

Here is my "artist rendering" of the damaged area.

ANGRY Z

I haven't measured but it is smooth and roughly no deeper than 1/16th of an inch. Maybe a 32nd of an inch.

RichieRichZ06

Damn, a 16th or even 32nd of an inch is huge when talking block surfaces. I would think that would have to be welded and then machined back to smooth.

NORTY

Forget about "1/16 inch." No gasket is going to seal that. In fact, to do it right, you'll need to build up the area and then fly cut it flat. Welding is ok, but it may warp the block from heat. You can heat the whole block and fly cut the whole block, but that's still a risk.

If it really a sixteen of an inch, that's .0625.

You need to get it down to .003in to .004in max.

If all else fails, they make a good table base...

3 Z06ZR1

I hate to say it but I think the dreaded fill with "Jb weld is the answer!"

1320IN9

damm that sucks, i think it's too critical of an area that cant be done without actual machine work, if it was where the oil pan meets the block, or the front cover then a JB weld would be ok but not on the cyl head to block surface.

gotjuice?

Was the liner damaged? I would not think the coolant could get past the steel liner. What does the piston look like? Is coolant actually entering the cyliner, Or is there some other issues? Just not sure that is the actual issue.

ANGRY Z

The liner looks unscathed to me.

double06

The copper stuff. Though if the whole is 1/16 of an inch deep that is a lot. Maybe if it were 1/32.

ANGRY Z

I ordered a new GM MLS LS7 head gasket and some "LabMetal" from Alvins Products. It is supposed to be good up to 1000 degrees F. I think I am going to give it a try for the repair. I will put it all back together and see if it seals. I think this, with possibly some "gasket spray" may be the ticket. Obviously I will have to get the void filled and sanded down perfectly flat.

If this doesnt work, then I guess I will have to pull the motor and have it repaired somewhere professionally.

ANGRY Z

The piston is brand new, as is the entire shortblock. Coolant is definitely getting into the cylinder. i used a digital borescope to look into it after running it and then pulling the spark plug. Then when I drained the oil, coolant came out. Additionally, when coolant displaces the oil in the dry sump tank it pushes oil out of the top of the tank into my catch can.

This shortblock has never left the garage (zero miles) and has ran no more than a total of 30 minutes.