[Z06] Intermittant Cooling fan failure - HELP!
#1
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Intermittant Cooling fan failure - HELP!
I have a '08 ZO6 and the cooling fan does not work all the time when it should (temp 230 to 259). I've powered up the fan and it always runs. The fan control module has power and ground to it. How can I test the fan control module? How can I check to see if the computer is telling the module to come on? Someone told me it may be my coolant temp. sensor and that I have one just for the cooling fan. Is this correct? My DIC and temp. guage always show the engine temp. Sometimes the fan works fine, other times it doesn't and the car overheats. I would really appreciate any help! Thank you.
#2
Team Owner
Check the connector to see if it is melted/damaged. Very common.
#3
Le Mans Master
#4
Le Mans Master
Same thing happened to me. Total fan failure and the car almost overheated. Thankfully I saw the temps climb rapidly and was able to shut down the car before any damage was done. Now I have bypassed my fan connector and soldered the grounds directly together.
Here's the thread about it:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...d-working.html
Here's the thread about it:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...d-working.html
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First, what do you mean by the car overheats? Do you get a warning on the DIC that it is overheating? Coolant temp will swing all over the place when sitting with the engine idling in hot weather. I have seen my C5s do it and my 08Z does it as well. As for testing the fan turn on the AC and it should come on and the temp should drop. I know from operating my car that running the AC on a hot day when the oil and coolant temps hit the mid 230s will bring them down to less than 220 in a matter of 10 minutes or so.
Bill
Bill
Bill
Bill
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Thanks guys. The forum is great. It was a burned spade connector as you suggested. Mine was the hot lead. It now cools great. It also fixed my AC which would quit working whenever the fans stoped.
#9
First, what do you mean by the car overheats? Do you get a warning on the DIC that it is overheating? Coolant temp will swing all over the place when sitting with the engine idling in hot weather. I have seen my C5s do it and my 08Z does it as well. As for testing the fan turn on the AC and it should come on and the temp should drop. I know from operating my car that running the AC on a hot day when the oil and coolant temps hit the mid 230s will bring them down to less than 220 in a matter of 10 minutes or so.
Bill
Bill
Bill
Bill
Until today, when the gauge swung to max and I got the warning "COOLANT OVER TEMP" on the DIC. Stopped and checked and yep, fan not running. Changed the obviously-not-blown fuse, fan still not running. Tomorrow I'll check the wiring.
H.
P.S. by the way, where do you get replacement power connectors? Looks like a very special part.
Last edited by glashoppah; 08-02-2012 at 12:10 AM.
#11
H.
#12
OK - so, my fan connector is pretty and relatively pristine, so this is not the problem. I disconnected it so that I could do some more troubleshooting. I note that there are three input wires, two heavy gauge wires which are RED and BLACK, which I will assume are the input DC power leads. The third is much lighter gauge and is GREEN, which could either be a fan speed sensor or some sort of control connection.
I applied 12v power from the battery to the RED and BLACK and the fan does not start. I note that there is a slight spark when I apply power - I am assuming I'm charging a motor start capacitor, because the spark only appears once. I can discharge it (with another slight spark) by shorting the fan power leads, and then it will spark again when I connect it. So again, it appears to have a motor start cap that appears to be properly storing a charge.
So I guess my conclusion is that the fan motor is bad, OR the green wire is an input signal that is required to start the fan. My question for the group is, should I see the fan start if the motor is good given only the application of 12V to the power leads, or does this motor require signal on the green wire as well?
H.
I applied 12v power from the battery to the RED and BLACK and the fan does not start. I note that there is a slight spark when I apply power - I am assuming I'm charging a motor start capacitor, because the spark only appears once. I can discharge it (with another slight spark) by shorting the fan power leads, and then it will spark again when I connect it. So again, it appears to have a motor start cap that appears to be properly storing a charge.
So I guess my conclusion is that the fan motor is bad, OR the green wire is an input signal that is required to start the fan. My question for the group is, should I see the fan start if the motor is good given only the application of 12V to the power leads, or does this motor require signal on the green wire as well?
H.
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[QUOTE=glashoppah;1581468253]OK - so, my fan connector is pretty and relatively pristine, so this is not the problem. I disconnected it so that I could do some more troubleshooting. I note that there are three input wires, two heavy gauge wires which are RED and BLACK, which I will assume are the input DC power leads. The third is much lighter gauge and is GREEN, which could either be a fan speed sensor or some sort of control connection.
I applied 12v power from the battery to the RED and BLACK and the fan does not start. I note that there is a slight spark when I apply power - I am assuming I'm charging a motor start capacitor, because the spark only appears once. I can discharge it (with another slight spark) by shorting the fan power leads, and then it will spark again when I connect it. So again, it appears to have a motor start cap that appears to be properly storing a charge.
So I guess my conclusion is that the fan motor is bad, OR the green wire is an input signal that is required to start the fan. My question for the group is, should I see the fan start if the motor is good given only the application of 12V to the power leads, or does this motor require signal on the green wire as well?
My fan would run when I powered the fan motor (Red / Black) as you did. That should run the fan if you are powering the motor leads. The small green wire comes from your computer to tell the fan control module when to run. There are a lot of conditions that will cause your fan to run.
I don't think that the fan motor is a capacitor start motor so the spark may mean your motor is bad. My problem was the hot spade was melted and lost connection. My car is tuned and if the tunner runs the fan too much the spade clips can't handle the power. I did, as many others have, just connected the two leads using 10 guage wire and left plenty extra in case I ever have to change the module. This fixed my problem.
I applied 12v power from the battery to the RED and BLACK and the fan does not start. I note that there is a slight spark when I apply power - I am assuming I'm charging a motor start capacitor, because the spark only appears once. I can discharge it (with another slight spark) by shorting the fan power leads, and then it will spark again when I connect it. So again, it appears to have a motor start cap that appears to be properly storing a charge.
So I guess my conclusion is that the fan motor is bad, OR the green wire is an input signal that is required to start the fan. My question for the group is, should I see the fan start if the motor is good given only the application of 12V to the power leads, or does this motor require signal on the green wire as well?
My fan would run when I powered the fan motor (Red / Black) as you did. That should run the fan if you are powering the motor leads. The small green wire comes from your computer to tell the fan control module when to run. There are a lot of conditions that will cause your fan to run.
I don't think that the fan motor is a capacitor start motor so the spark may mean your motor is bad. My problem was the hot spade was melted and lost connection. My car is tuned and if the tunner runs the fan too much the spade clips can't handle the power. I did, as many others have, just connected the two leads using 10 guage wire and left plenty extra in case I ever have to change the module. This fixed my problem.