[Z06] My DIY LS7 Headswap
12-08-2012, 10:16 AM
#21
Safety Car
Do you use 1500 grit dry? I wonder if using a little WD with it would help. I guess you could pack some clean towels in the cylinder while cleaning. Thanks for the tips!
12-08-2012, 10:26 AM
#22
Racer
Thread Starter
That being said my DIY is mine, another technique getting the DECK clean is great the point is to get the DECK clean as possible. If that is happening via another way that is just as well.
Last edited by jeffreystar; 12-08-2012 at 10:53 AM.
12-08-2012, 11:02 AM
#24
Burning Brakes
I always do this dry yes and I do not pack the cylinders with anything during the procedure. I have a Wet/Dry vac going and pulling vacuum about 5mm away from where I am working at all times and is what I suggest.
That being said my DIY is mine, another technique getting the DECK clean is great the point is to get the DECK clean as possible. If that is happening via another way that is just as well.
That being said my DIY is mine, another technique getting the DECK clean is great the point is to get the DECK clean as possible. If that is happening via another way that is just as well.
Great write up...oustanding...
12-08-2012, 12:48 PM
#25
Le Mans Master
I always use a dremel with a soft wire wheel on the head surface of the block. Makes cleaning the surface about a ten minute job. Key to compressed air is covering what ever stuff can get into with tape or rags. Keep in mind that most things that get into the chamber that ARE NOT metal in nature will be instantaneously vaporized on start up and kicked out the exhaust. So yes, it's okay to be meticulous, but cleaning cylinders with that level of precision is overkill. Also, I would recommend changing the oil BEFORE the first start up. You will always have a bit of coolant reach the pan past the rings...no reason to have that in the pan on a fresh motor.
Cheers,
Smoke
Cheers,
Smoke
12-08-2012, 02:40 PM
#26
Le Mans Master
incredible post. great detail. make it a sticky. I am exhausted after reading the post. Time to grab a frosty cold one and relax.
12-09-2012, 03:20 AM
#28
Team Owner
Thank you sir
12-10-2012, 09:32 AM
#29
Racer
Thread Starter
I removed 80% of the crud with a plastic scraper and a vacuum, but I did not have the time to spend to get them spotless. I'm sure there is a benefit but I don't know what that benefit is beyond theoretical.
12-10-2012, 09:33 AM
#30
Racer
Thread Starter
12-10-2012, 09:46 AM
#32
Racer
Thread Starter
12-13-2012, 09:10 AM
#33
Kudos for taking the time to post this. I have done many head and engine swaps and last thing I want to do is spend 6 hours on a computer talking about it. Very cool of you and nice write up. Pretty much the way I do it except I'm not a fan of putting GM torque to yield bolts back in. I reccommend the ARP bolts instead. Negligible cost difference and although you hope you never take the heads off again, you never know. Ofcourse I'm not saying head studs like I'm doing on my current build (over kill), just ARP bolts. Just my .02. 
12-13-2012, 10:20 AM
#34
Racer
Thread Starter
Kudos for taking the time to post this. I have done many head and engine swaps and last thing I want to do is spend 6 hours on a computer talking about it. Very cool of you and nice write up. Pretty much the way I do it except I'm not a fan of putting GM torque to yield bolts back in. I reccommend the ARP bolts instead. Negligible cost difference and although you hope you never take the heads off again, you never know. Ofcourse I'm not saying head studs like I'm doing on my current build (over kill), just ARP bolts. Just my .02.
12-16-2012, 12:56 PM
#37
Burning Brakes
Check out ARP studs & bolts...Part #234-4317...Don't think you will need an angle meter for head studs...
...type in 234-4317 for part # on there web site...
Last edited by LT5 John; 12-16-2012 at 12:59 PM.
12-16-2012, 05:03 PM
#38
Burning Brakes
Ok so someone educate me here. I'm old school chevrolet where we just torqued the heads to 65ftbs for aluminum heads. But what I'm reading here is the heads are torqued to 22 ftbs, untorqued one turn then retoqued to 22 twice once at 90 degrees and the other at 70 degrees? I need some splaning here....
12-16-2012, 05:12 PM
#39
Burning Brakes
Ok so someone educate me here. I'm old school chevrolet where we just torqued the heads to 65ftbs for aluminum heads. But what I'm reading here is the heads are torqued to 22 ftbs, untorqued one turn then retoqued to 22 twice once at 90 degrees and the other at 70 degrees? I need some splaning here....
Last edited by LT5 John; 12-16-2012 at 05:41 PM.
12-16-2012, 05:14 PM
#40
Burning Brakes
That's for stock GM head bolt torque/ angle sequence...There is another option. ARP studs or head bolts...ARP studs or bolts, a torque meter is not requred...Total torque is 3 passes up to 80 ft pounds on M11 bolt ans 3 passes up to 25 ft lbs. That's with ARP...GM stock oem bolts requre 3 passes and a torque /angle meter is requred...Go to ARP web site, plug in the part number I posted above and read up on them...