mistermog

I did it too, makes reassembly SO much nicer.

Crazy Cowboy

Dumb question but what's the benefit of ARP over stock head bolts? Better quality material for more reliable head seal over time?

mistermog

Stronger and reusable

kotik

Is step 23b needed? Im ordering a complete head...

Also, can i use prestone coolant? I have a jug sitting in garage, im in germany so its hard to find the gm fluid...

arsautorepair

No, and you could just reuse your old coolant if you can't get dexcool or compatible coolant

kotik

I started working today, put in about two hours (im in germany, so its evening here), will continue tomorrow. Would anyone be mind enough to post some more pics, since most in original post dont work.


Also, i only got to the step of releasing the power steering pump, but i cant get the two long bolts out... Is it necessary? I almost got the alternator bracket out(got all the bolts out), but i cant remove it, the buttom part with the pulley doesnt want to come out... Am i missing something?

mistermog

Yes all the power steering bolts need to come out. Theres one that's REALLY tricky. could be the one youre fighting with. I found leaning over from the passenger side of the car its almost stupid simple to reach and once you have the pump off you can get the brackets off.

The alternator bracket should be easy if I remember?

edmundu

1st off... Thanks for this DIY. I referred to it many times during my head swap, and it made it relatively painless to do. Some parts that were supposed to be tough, wound up being easy for me, but I got hung up on others, so in the end pretty much even.

One suggestion that I would like to include, would be when you need to turn over the engine manually(for pushrod measuring or GM rocker arm procedure), and have an ARP 12 pt crank bolt, it is impossible to do so without moving the steering rack!

Instead, I found a post by DRM, that said to use the Alternator bolt. It mentions adding a little tension to the belt, so not sure if that is possible with the stock tensioner.(I have a Katech, which I manually torqued to 28 ft/lbs.) That was enough to easily turn the engine with a 24mm socket and 1/2 rachet.

Z06 Steve

I might have missed it but I see no mention of thread sealer on headbolts for reinstall of the heads.??

Joe_G

The new bolts come with sealer on them. Be sure and clean out the old sealer out of the holes, many folks cut a slot in the old bolts to make a makeshift tap. Be sure and clean out the holes well with air and get any water out too or you'll crack the block.

mistermog

IF you use ARP, they come with some ultra torque lube stuff... I used it on mine, worked fine far as I can tell.

Z06 Steve

Yes I'm using arp bolts so use arp moly lube on threads washers and under bolt heads? I don't have air so I'm using the shop vac straw method.

mistermog

I used lots of qtips and the straw vac method too.

I don't remember if I used it on the heads or just the threads. I believe just the threads but I could be wrong. I followed whatever directions it said.

Whis9

Great write up

rob20rx7

subscribed

gtodoug

Best writeup ever….especially for those who are concerned about the head issues of the LS7. Thanks!

383

Im not sure if someone mentioned it or not, but I like to do the initial start with the 2 white coil pack connectors disconnected so it won't fire right away and prime the engine with oil.
Thanks for the great write up

Edit: I guess if you're not doing the oil pump and cam etc.. its not as crucial

TnRZ06

Gonna be doing this during winter this year good post to keep handy thanks for sharing all the details.

Da Z06

Sub for later review....

Whis9

In the process of buying the service manual, does the service manual provide any of this information also for resource?